GTP Ownership Questions

I'm interested in GTP ownership and am doing as much research as I can. I went to Repticon with a friend this past weekend and had no intentions of paying any mind to the snakes, but then I saw this small, yellow snake with random spots all over it. I curiously asked what it was and learned that it was called a green tree python because it turns green as an adult. I also heard a short conversation between my friend and the seller regarding the aggressiveness of the snakes. When I went home I thought nothing more of it. Then, I woke up the next morning and could not get it out of my head. Thus ensued hours of general research, reading, and looking at gorgeous pictures. Apparently, I've be converted.

My friend owns and breeds ball pythons, so I've learned a fair bit about their genetics and care by association and conversation. But everything I've read about GTP's seems rather inconclusive. I plan on getting the Complete Chondro. Are there other books that anyone would recommend?

Some specific questions that I am trying to answer are:
What does a first time snake owner need to know?
Is there a way to tell what color a GTP will be after it changes?
Which breeds are less aggressive, or what is the best way to pick a non-aggressive snake?
What is known about the genetics and breeding for specific markings/colors?

I doubt I will buy one in less than 6-12 months because of current leases not being pet-friendly and roommates generally being opposed to me having a snake. But, I am very interested in having such a gorgeous snake on display when I can. I also would like to have one young enough to watch the change, but I've read much caution in regard to younger snakes. Are there any ownership tips anyone can offer? Especially in regards to general care and display?

Also, I would want to eventually get into breeding. Which is why I’m so interested in the genetics side of things.

Don't worry. I won't be going out and buying a snake tomorrow thinking I can take care of it. I freely admit my naïveté, so any information is welcome.

Thanks!

I don't think many people here will advocate a GTP as your first snake unless you have extensive experience with other reptiles. That said, if you're really, really serious and put the energy in - it is not impossible. The young GTPs are extremely physically fragile. Sorry I can't answer your other questions and GL!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MrLang

I don't think many people here will advocate a GTP as your first snake unless you have extensive experience with other reptiles. That said, if you're really, really serious and put the energy in - it is not impossible. The young GTPs are extremely physically fragile. Sorry I can't answer your other questions and GL!

---

This is good advice. And the complete chondro is praised as the best chondro book out there by many...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using Tapatalk 2

Green tree pythons are not hard snakes to take care of. Once their basic requirements are met, they are as simple as any other snake. The problem is most people buy w.c. Babies and they die. I would not suggest you get a green tree as your first snake because they are fragile when it come to their requirements. Babies can dehydrate very easily, they should not be handled until they are around 12-18 months old(spines are very fragile). I would suggest read the more complete chondro 2-4 times(cover to cover) and check out moreliavidirs.yuku for a lot of Information. I met a few breaders their and that where i got my blue line neo from. GTP genetics are very different from ball pythons. There is no set on what you will produce, and what they will look like when they are adults.

I, too, agree that a gtp is not the best first time reptile. But, I believe that with a lot of research, learning and some general experience with someone that owns a gtp, it is very possible.
I own one gtp and don't know much on genetics ( or much about localities either ) as I really don't have any plans on breeding. My gtp has a rather large skin fold and I will not take the chance on it passing onto his offspring.
Anyhoo, my is also not handled often since gtps are fragile, and he isn't the sweetest snake either ;)
Good luck on all your research and I hope you find the snake you are looking for.

Yeah. GTPs aren't recommended as a first snake.
They're a little more advanced than a ball python.

The variation of green, blues, whites, and yellows on an adult depend on the locale of the snake.
For example, some people say that Biaks are more aggressive than the other locales. They' also have a lot of yellows.
Arus tend to have a lot of blues and whites. etc etc.
So depending on the locality of the snake, you can have a pretty good idea on what it will look like as an adult.


If you really do desire a GTP, I suggest getting a well established young adult first. That way their habits and tendencies are already known.

Everyone knows their own limit. I would never presume to tell you that you can't handle a GTP as your first snake. In fact, with you doing the research you're doing and spending time talking to breeders and asking questions... You're the kind of person I would want to see get into these amazing animals. I have a corn snake. Will a corn snake teach me how to care for a GTP? Not really. She gives me an idea of what snakes are generally like, but since GTPs are so different, what experience she does give me is way off base from what I'd be dealing with with one of those green beauties.

So, research, ask questions, interact with them... A friend of mine is getting into breeding them and he gladly invites any serious buyers to come and interact with them. They aren't going to break if you hold them. However, they are more fragile than the stocky little ball pythons. So it's just an awareness thing. And being prepared.

Honestly... I have hermit crabs at home. People think they are simple pets. They have been the most difficult pet I've had. Why? Their set-up is intensely finicky, they are extremely delicate, their requirements are very unique and information on them is all over the chart. So what turned out to be a 'simple' pet is actually very tricky. But, I learned. I got the hang of it. I got familiar with their needs. And now my coloney is thriving. So don't let people discourage you with all these negative stories :D They aren't nearly as difficult as some animals to keep. They are unique, and something that will give you just the right amount of challenge.

I too would not recommend a gtp as a first snake. I love mine and wouldnt trade her but she can be a challenge. She was not my first snake. I do find her easy to care for but the hard part is dealing with her. Things like cleaning the tank or changing the water can be a struggle and you WILL get tagged as a gtp owner. I have pics on my profile of two of her kisses. They dont hurt, its just alittle prick. They will draw blood though. They do not have teeth like a tree boa but they do have needle like teeth that are a pretty good length for their size. If you have ever pricked you finger to test your blood suger I think a bite feels like that.

There is no way to tell what color the adult will turn out to be. And the marking can fade to match the body or stay and turn a different shade of green, yellow or even a beautiful blue. I hope I get some blue but I think mine is going to be alittle more yellow, she is starting to get yellow scales to come in.

As far as the most tame a Aru is said to be the one to get. As for the one people say are aggressive its a Biak. I have a Biak and she was really nippy when I got her. From what I have read and been told if you want to make sure you get a gtp that is tame, buy an already tame adult.

Mine is young(bout a year) but I do allow her to crawl out of her cage and perch on my hand. She is really curious and super active at night, which is a joy to watch. With several weeks of work she became pretty good at coming out with no to very few strikes and then once she is out she has been fine. She is still in no way like a bp and has her pissy days. Like now, she is in shed and strikes at everything.

I have not found any other good books on them and that is the one everyone says is a must read. I wish they would make a digital copy.

I dont know about breeding them cause at the momemt I have to ambition to do it.

As far as tips:
I read not to deal with them at night because they go into hunting mode. With mine everytime I would deal with her during the day she was super pissy. I found that if I waited til she woke up and started moving about the cage she was very open to coming out and climbing on my hands.

I love her and love how she displays. I dont think you could have a better snake for display. As long as you are not worried about getting bit and putting work into a young one you will do fine.

http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/...og/BiakGTP.jpg

Everyone’s input is greatly appreciated. To the cautioners, I am fully aware that this is not something to take lightly. It will be 6-12 months before I am in a place where I CAN have one. That’s plenty of time to be dissuaded by facts.

It is the beauty of these snakes that attracts me to them, and would want it as a display animal. I have no idea if I would want to handle it regularly. However, I would like to know that I’m not going to be bitten every time my hand comes near it. From what I’ve read, temperament varies greatly among the varieties and each snake within can be different. Any tips on discerning this is welcome. Also, I would really love to get a snake young enough to watch the color change, but I want to know the pro’s and con’s. I’ve read many posts cautioning against getting a younger snake, but the information and rationale doesn’t seem complete. Also, the cost seems greater for adults... Is this generally true?

My friend, who has started breeding them, was answering similar questions to these when I was on the phone with him last. It seems a lot of what he has observed within his own collection, they were more 'defensive' than 'aggressive'. Very much a 'Leave me alone!' attitude. Aggressive is actively acting out against you, even if you aren't pressing it. Defensiveness is when you invade their space and they don't feel comfortable about it.

When they are in their cage, they are going to have moments where they are defensive. They don't want you to bother them. But apparently once they are removed from the spot they are 'defending' they tend to settle down moreso.

I had a bird like that before. Most 'aggressive' bird in her cage. Laid my hand right open before. But, once she was out, she was the sweetest, most adorable little thing.

Of course, I'm just going off of second hand information here and do not have experience myself. However, it does make sense. Snakes don't act out unless we present them with a stressful situation, or when we are seen as a threat or bothering them.

Another risk with young GTPs is how delicate they are. They are quite fragile, so that's a pro to the adults. But if you want to watch the color change, I don't see how that is a problem. Especially since you are expressing wanting more of a display animal than anything.

An established adult that is tame will always be more money. If you dont handle it and leave it for display only, it is a pretty good bet that it will tag you every time you reach around it. They are in no way naturally nice. Just remeber that you WILL HAVE TO move it when the cage needs a good wash or changing cages. Its not something you can lock away and just look at forever.

Be cautious. Everytime I say I wont get that til whenever I will run across it and then own it. Everyone on here will tell you that snakes are addictive.

The only reason I would say have another snake first is you can learn from it about yourself. Meaning even a bp will move quickly from time to time when your dealing with it so you can see what kind of startle response you have. With a gtp they will strike at you and if your not used to how a snake can move quickly at or away from you it may catch you off guard and you may by accident drop the snake. Its not natural for a person to stand their ground and let a snake bite them but many times that is just what you have to do with a gtp. Many times I can see it coming but cant do a thing about it other than take the bite.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by KMG

The only reason I would say have another snake first is you can learn from it about yourself.

---

Would interacting with a friend's bp collection and offering to feed them or clean their containers be helpful? I'm all for hands on learning, but I seriously CANNOT have a snake right now. My lease specifically disallows pets and since all my housemates are typical females (and one is the landlord) there is no chance I could get away with having one until I move in 6-12 months.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wysteria

Would interacting with a friend's bp collection and offering to feed them or clean their containers be helpful? I'm all for hands on learning, but I seriously CANNOT have a snake right now. My lease specifically disallows pets and since all my housemates are typical females (and one is the landlord) there is no chance I could get away with having one until I move in 6-12 months.

---

That would be great. If he has one that has alittle attitude I would get real comfortable dealing with it.

I think gtp are great snakes and welcome the challenge but they are unique snakes that require a unique owner. Not many people will seek a snake they know will, not may, will bite them. I would recommend a gtp to anyone that is willing to learn about them and knows what they are getting into. Get one, you seem to be that kind of person.

- - - Updated - - -

Did you see my post on page 1? We both post about the same time so you might have missed it. I tried to answer everything you asked.

The idea that all GTP's are aggressive is a myth. There's actually a great discussion about it going on right now on morelia viridis forum (which is also the single best resource for the species on the internet). When it comes to captive bred animals, aggressiveness seems to be rather rare. Oftentimes, an aggressive parent will have aggressive babies. The vast majority of CB babies are completely chill. For example, I got my own GTP as a well-established neonate when he was about 30 grams. He was completely handlable when I got him, although at that size their spines are still too delicate to handle safely. Biaks have a reputation with being aggressive, but that really isn't true with CB animals. They do, however, tend to have quite the feeding response. Personality-wise, my chondro acts like calm BP during the day, but if I were to stick my hand in his cage at night I'd definitely get bit. A simple spritz of my water bottle will snap him out of hunting mode and make him safe to deal with.

Same with aggression, the only way to truly tell what it'll look like as an adult would be to look at the parents. Maroon neonates in some lines have a tendency to have more extreme colors, but every baby has the chance to end up being plain green. It's really just guess work as to what a baby will look like as an adult. GTP breeders keep meticulous breeding records as the only definitive "morph" is albino, everything else is just selective breeding.

Like others said, they're just as easy to care for as a ball python, but they do require a bit more effort and money to get set up. They're more likely to use horizontal space as opposed to vertical space. If you get The More Complete Chondro you'll see a much more detailed explanation on the things you'll need for caging.

The biggest debate on care is with misting. There are those that swear by misting their animals daily, others say weekly, and even some say rarely. General consensus is that hydration is more important than humidity. Some chondros have a hard time figuring out that a water dish is where they should drink from, and mine is one of those. The only way I can guarantee that he'll drink is if I spray down his body (though never directly on his head). Not everyone has this problem, it's just something I've experienced with my own animal.

I think you could absolutely have a GTP as your first snake, but I would suggest that you really really do your research. Set up the enclosure and practice your keeping habits (such as misting) before you lay any money down on a snake. Avoid young neonates, go for more well-established animals or yearlings. Read through as many threads on MVF as you possibly can stand. Some of the biggest names in the chondro world frequent there, and they are more than happy to answer questions and help other keepers out.

Geeze, this turned into a bit of a novella! Kudos to anyone who was able to read through the whole thing lol.

EDIT: Almost completely forgot! If you see anyone advertising sexed neonates, or are guaranteeing sex on animals less than a year old, AVOID THEM LIKE THE PLAGUE. Chondro's delicate spines makes it extremely dangerous to sex them any younger than a year old, and many people wait until they're 2. Avoid animals sold on kingsnake. There are some good breeders on there, but most are indiscriminate importers that are likely selling animals that are dehydrated, covered in mites, and full of parasites. Spend a little more and go with a proper breeder.

Hope that helps!

My Biak was CB and was in no way nice out of the gate, she required work. Where did you get yours? Its a Biak?

- - - Updated - - -

Mine must be wired backwards cause she is much easier to deal with at night. LOL!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by KMG

My Biak was CB and was in no way nice out of the gate, she required work. Where did you get yours? Its a Biak?

- - - Updated - - -

Mine must be wired backwards cause she is much easier to deal with at night. LOL!

---

I got mine from a breeder locally. He's a biak x merauke x aru cross.

Some babies are definitely born with an attitude, I was just saying that it's not nearly as common as their reputation would lead you to believe. Mine has a personality somewhere between a BP and a colubrid. Most of the time he's got a pretty calm, curious demeanor. But when night hits you better watch out, cause he's out for blood! I've managed so far to not get tagged thanks to the squirt bottle, but it's pretty common for him to strike at the glass if I walk by during the night. I won't lie, he's definitely my favorite snake.

My GTP is my favorite too. I love working with her even though she bites me.

Just before she went into shed I had a great session with her. She crawled across my head around my neck across my shoulders and back to my hand to perch up. It was awesome!

I bought her from a pet shop owner that I think thought she would be less nippy and didnt want to work with her. He told me she had only struck once. Just on the ride home she hit the glass three times. I figured then I had been lied to but having done my homework I knew that she could be like that so I was undetered. His lost was my gain. I want another.

If you do your research and use your head then getting a GTP as your first snake is fine. I surprised my gf with 2 baby GTPs for her bday and they can be taken out of their cage and handled with no problem. People also say carpet pythons are mean as babies, but out of 13 I've only had 2 that bit me. You might get a nice one if you're lucky or you might get a demon. I think you'll do fine either way long as you study up on them.

I agree if you get a nice one but not a demon. A new snake owner dealing with a nippy tree python is not a good idea. But trying to get one that is tame young can be a challenge.

Share the breeder you got yours from so they can check them out.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by KMG

Share the breeder you got yours from so they can check them out.

---

I got them from Underground Reptiles

My GTP is great but is is a ARU and older, he is a sweet heart and is held by everyone and never been tag. But they are a challege, and have hight requierments. I only got mind after the man who sold me mine felt I was ready for it. Each GTP is very different and I feel the ARU are the more nicer. So look at the the type before you buy. Also get the Book by Maxwell it like the Bible of GTP are a 2 of the I have the later one called the Completed book. Read it before or if you can get someone to let you borewed it cost is about 50 plus dollars to buy. But you will understand what you are getting into before you make the big cost of 300 to 1200 dollars for your snake.

I hope this helps

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wysteria

Would interacting with a friend's bp collection and offering to feed them or clean their containers be helpful? I'm all for hands on learning, but I seriously CANNOT have a snake right now. My lease specifically disallows pets and since all my housemates are typical females (and one is the landlord) there is no chance I could get away with having one until I move in 6-12 months.

---

Ahem... I hope you realize probably half of the posters here (on BP.net) are females. :P

I have no advice or experience with GTPs, just had to say something about that comment - LOL.

I'm sure all the female posters on here are awesome. It's just been my experience that most females run away from snakes. No offense meant. I myself am female. And when I went to repticon, no females would go w me because snakes would be there. :)

If anything, take that comment as frustration w friends of my gender.