Weird shedding?

Belly of my BP became pinky then his eyes became milky — I was thinking that he's about to shed. I put humidity to 80 and left for a day. When I got back (the next day) his eyes became normal, belly almost not pinky, but there were no signs of shedding (no skin pieces around).

I wonder — what is going on? Was he really shedding or there's something wrong?

After the blue phase of the sheding process they look normal again for a day or so then actually shed. Make sure the humidity is still between 60% and 80%. Anything more is excessive.

Thank you.
Another question:
One of his eyes looks normal, but the other one has 'cross' on it. I was thinking it his scale and it will be gone with the shedding, but it's still there even after eyes not milky anymore.

I also feel like he's bind right now. He's not afraid anymore of fast moves usually he was trying to hide and he let's to touch his head. He reacts only on that.

Is it also part of the shedding process?

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "cross" he hasn't shed yet so it could still be the scale.

The shedding process is very stressful to them and makes them feel vulnerable. After the blue phase their vision should return to normal, but they will still act strange. I highly recommend leaving him completely alone until he sheds.

Can you give me some more information on his cage?

What: type/size cage, heat source, is your heat source regulated in any way, what are you using to measure temperatures/humidity, what are your current temperature/humidity readings?

By cross i mean lines that 'split' his eye. It doesn't look like a trauma to me, but the other eye doesn't have it, and this is what concerns me.

He has a glass aquarium about 1m length and about 40 cm tall. I use under tank heater and a 100W lamp in a windy/cold days. Usually temperature is around 26-32 degrees at a day time and about 24-26 night time. Under-tank heater works 24/7 at one side os the tank. The heat source regulated only by unplugging/timer, there's no possibility to put special temperature.

When I was just touching him i realised that his skin is more rigid at the edges of scale.

Under tank heaters can kill your snake if they are left like that. They get far too hot. They must be regulated by a thermostat.

Check out this thread I wrote on cage heating:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...t-Thermometers

Thank you for advice. I was already thinking of buying a new UTH that can be regulated or a thermostat separately.

To make it clear: you advice to wait another day and wait for the snake to shed (it suppose to)?
Regarding the eye — is it normal practice for snake to have such an eye or is it something wrong with it and my baby needs an eye doctor?

Your snake should shed in the next 48 hours. I wouldn't be worried about the eye until after he sheds. I've never seen what you are describing but if it goes away after the shed then it isn't an issue.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

Under tank heaters can kill your snake if they are left like that. They get far too hot. They must be regulated by a thermostat.

Check out this thread I wrote on cage heating:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...t-Thermometers

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If you have over an inch of substrate and have a UTH can it still burn my snake? I was worried that it may be too hot for her but when i examine the spot she lays in it is warm but no where near "hot". I am planning on purchasing themostats soon. Until then should I only keep my above tank lights on to create heat?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pap5033

If you have over an inch of substrate and have a UTH can it still burn my snake? I was worried that it may be too hot for her but when i examine the spot she lays in it is warm but no where near "hot". I am planning on purchasing themostats soon. Until then should I only keep my above tank lights on to create heat?

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Yes your UTH can still burn your snake. A thermostat is 100% necessary.

Until you have a thermostat you should unplug the UTH.

Once you have a thermostat you will need to make your substrate layer thinner. To be effective UTH's need a substrate layer that is 1/2" or less.

My snake 'removed' all substrate from the UTH area, which made me think it's not warm for him enough...?

Do you have a thermometer with a probe? Guessing temperatures is the worst thing you can do. You need to know exactly how hot/cold your cage is. Otherwise it's just a matter or time before something bad happens.

Moving substrate can mean many things. No way to say for sure exactly what.

If the UTH is unregulated then I gaurentee it isn't too cold... They can get up to 42 degrees Celsius (which is hot enough to cause neurological damage) in under 2 hours.

My bet is that the "cross" you are seeing is just a crease in the eye cap that will come off when he sheds. Keep your humidity up and regulate/check your temps as Aaron already suggested, and he will shed in the next couple of days. Do NOT attempt to soak him right now, it will cause a bad shed.