My New Ball Python

I bought my first snake, Uro, a few days ago, and while he's comfortably housed for the time being, I want to start looking now for the next size up, cage wise. Currently he's only about a month and a half old, and he's in a 10 gallon tank. I understand that I eventually should get a 30 for him, but am told that getting a tank that big for him right now may be to much space for him and could make him feel uncomfortable?

If that is the case then I am looking at a 20 gallon for the time being for him and I was just wondering if there's a really good place to go for inexpensive tanks (most of the ones I see are 60 bucks or more).

If it isn't the case and I can just get my python a 30 gallon tank, then the same question applies. Also, I want to make sure I'm doing EVERYTHING right, so a question on under tank heaters. I was told by a pet shop employee who breeds Ball Pythons and Bearded Dragons that its normally a good idea to stay away from under tank heaters with pythons simply because the snakes don't sense heat on their undersides to well as their sensors are on the top of their maw/heads, so currently I'm using heat lamps. I just wanted to cross check this info, I thought it'd be alot easier to have a UTH.

Lastly, I'm also looking for a good place to buy hides. Some of the ones I've seen at pet stores look very bad for ball pythons as they are made of a heavy material that'll absorb the heat but not really cool down so if my python were to lay on the top he could get burned. So I guess I need to know what materials to stay away from as well as what materials to get if I have the option.

I suppose I'm a 'worrying parent' as this is my first snake, but honestly I'd wrather be over concerned and getting to much information then neglecting my 'baby'.

Thanks so much, I look forward to being educated! :D

First: Do not buy another fish tank.

Take a look at Animal Plastics PVC cages. It comes with belly heat.

For hides look at Reptile Basics.

That set-up will serve you VERY well.

It looks like Animal Plastics uses almost a kennel like cage, where as there's an opening on the top and one side, but I like the idea of open on all sides just so I can watch my ball python from any angle. I don't know if it makes a big difference to the snake though.

It makes a huge difference.

Here are 2 of my AP cages stacked. They hold in heat and humidity much better. Aquariums are for fish not reptiles. I use the Animal Plastics T8 for Ball Pythons.

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...t/c22733cf.jpg

If you really want they can add in windows on the sides but that would make your BP feel less secure. Most people suggest covering 3 sides of tanks anyway to make a snake feel more secure.

Checkout the caresheet to make sure that your setup is correct.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

Under tank heaters are the best heat source, but unless they are regulated by a good thermostat they can easily kill your snake. Another thing to know is that they do not change the air temperature in the cage. This means 2 things. First dial type thermometers and even non-probed thermoneters are useless as they cannot tell you how hot the floor of the cage is (which is what the heating pad heats). A d second if your room that the cage is in gets below 75 degrees a second heat source (heat lamps for tanks, radiant heat panels in AP cages) will be needed to increase the air temperature in the cage.

I suggest that you post a photo of your set up so we can take a look.

Here are some good thermostats, don't bother with the crap sold in pet stores it isn't worth your money.

The hydrofarm thermostat is considered by most to be the cheapest usable thermostat. These aren't very accurate, but at $30 they are hard to beat price wise.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NZZG3S

The Herpstat is the best of the best. These are much more accurate, have far more capabilities, and have many built in safety features that make them a much better choice, but carry a higher price tag.

http://spyderrobotics.com/

Here is a good digital thermometer/hydrometer they are sold at Walmart for $12 and measure 2 temperatures, and humidity. 1 of these is all you need in your cage.

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...nt/photo-3.jpg

As mentioned above the reptile basics hides are the best. You can get them here:

http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes

This is considered by many to be a very good BP set up. Simple, easy to clean, and most importantly makes the snake feel secure.

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0455.jpg

Holy cow, that looks a whole lot different then what I imagined when I was looking at the pictures on the site. It deffinatly makes sense to me now that I see it in use.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f7...s/IMG_0312.jpg

now that I see the awsome set ups other people have I'm extremely ashamed of mine. I know mine's still young, but I can't wait to get my hands on some quality items now.
I have 2 thermometers on both sides of the cage, and 1 combo thermometer/humidity on the upper middle area to keep track of the average temperature.

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f7...s/IMG_0311.jpg
Uro

I would start out by replacing the thermometers, the dial type sold in pet stores are known to be inaccurate, and short lived. The digital thermometer from Walmart that I posted about above is used by many people here and is a great value.

I would also replace the hides with 2 reptile basics small sizes (a link to which can be found in my post above)

I wouldn't be ashamed, I've seen much much worse lol, you have got the basics. Now it's time to dial it in. Everyone has to start somewhere.

I see the various hides at reptile basics, which am I going to get when he's adult size? I assumed the large.

It depends on how big he gets. You will move him up as needed. Remember that they like tight fitting hides.

Most will end up with larges, some will even need bigger ones.

Aaron's given you fantastic advice!! Just wanted to chime in and say welcome to the forums - you've come to the right place for education! And Aaron is also right to say you should not be ashamed - we all start somewhere! And we certainly won't look down on you for coming here and asking questions and wanting to do the right thing and make things better for your snake! Welcome to the addiction.... :D

So he's going to need a medium next then? Or a small? And does the sizing up thing work with the cage too or can I just get the one he's going to be in as an adult as long as his hides are to the propper size?



Oh and I feel the need to ask how many days should they go before being fed again, I was planning on trying again 5 days after feeding him the first time, Wed of this upcoming week.

I would start him on small size hides (no BP will fit in the minis) then eventually move him up to the mediums.

What I do is start mine in 1/2 of an AP T8 (a full T8 measures 4 x 2 x 1 foot so half is 2 x 2 x 1)

Then when they are big enough I pull the divider out of the cage and let them have the full 4 x 2 x 1 cage.

I feed my young BP's every 4 days, and older BP's every 8 days.

How do you get the heat lamps in there?! or light in general I should ask.

LIght really is not needed. If you need ambient heat, use a radiant heat panel.

There aren't any heat lamps. Only non heat emitting fluorescent bulbs for viewing purposes.

The cages are heated with a UTH, and if needed additional heat can be created using radiant heat panels

http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels

Here is a thread I wrote that goes over PVC cage: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...With-Pictures!

So the cages come with UTHs? and I was more concerned about the whole 12 hours of light 12 hours of night for the python since I was under the impression they needed that.

it is an add on, that comes from the manufacturer.

They can also add in lights (which I have in my cages)

the day light/night cycle isn't 100% necessary in Ball Pythons. In the wild they spend daylight hours sleeping in rodent burrows and come out at night to hunt. (so they are pretty much in darkness 24/7

here you can see the lights mounted into the back of the cage

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/3f1e76f3.jpg

Here you can see the UTH mounted to the bottom of the cage

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0439.jpg

Power cords for the lights come out the top

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0447.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0442.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0458.jpg

so Uro is doin his thing since its night and I wanted to know, how long should I wait for my BP to get accustomed to his new home before I start handlin him?

at least a week.

Doh! I will fight the temptation... alright, so when I'm ordering the new cage for Uro, I'll want the UTH and a Light, other then sliding glass doors I don't think theres anything else I can think of besides the hides which I believe we said small is good for him right now, and just move up as he gets bigger.

When I order cages I get them with:

T8 with sliding glass doors

Sliding glass door locks (Optional: to keep people out, not snakes in lol)

11" flexwatt Belly heat

white fluorescent lights x2

Pop in, Pop out divider

I house 2 small snakes in a single cage, then later only 1 snake in a cage without the divider.

If you are only housing 1 snake, then you don't need the divider or second light fixture.

You will need a thermostat to run the UTH, without one you will fry your BP.

Here are 2 good thermostats:

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR.../dp/B000NZZG3S

http://spyderrobotics.com/

Yea, I was planning in having just the 1 for now to see how well it goes, I wouldnt want to get ahead of myself, but if after a year he's doing really good maybe I'll get em a girl friend, lol.

So that means I dont need the divider and just 1 lamp would be sufficient. I think I'm going to need a larger water bowl/cup once I move him in. I don't think He's drank anything since he's been with me or at least I havn't seen him drink.

My BP has spent all day and most of last night outside his logg hide, which is where he's been hiding most of the time an now that i can examin em without buggin him I noticed his right eye seems a little off, line it has a slight 'dent' in it. Im pretty concerned already, but I felt the need to ask if its nothin to worry about or is it.

If it it dented in chances are he is slightly dehydrated, or bumped into something.

To fix this you should soak him in warm water (mid 80's remember what feels warm to us feels hot to a cold blooded snake) for about 20 minutes. This will rehydrate him.

Nothing life threatening and easily fixed. Nothing to worry about.

Increasing the humidity will also help with the dented eye cap.

:welcome:

I'm very glad you found your way to the forum. I started out with a similar setup and didn't even realize I was doing anything wrong until I talked to the people here. It really is amazing the garbage the pet store sets you up with.

The animal plastics cages look great, you'll be really happy with it! Can't wait to see how your new setup turns out.

As for the laying outside the hide, I think it just depends. Some snakes are comfortable just hanging out, others it can be a sign of stress. If your snake is eating on a weekly basis I think its fine. It might also be the hides. The reptile basics hides are a lot more secure than the half log type hides.

Wow he looked like he enjoyed that alot and the 'dent' is gone. WOW!

Now soaking isn't something that should be done on a regular basis, it dries out their scales (which can lead to bad sheds) and can stress them out. it is best to have a water dish in their cage big enough that they can soak in it if they chose to. (but not so deep that they can drown in it)

Soaking shouldn't be thought of as a preventative measure, but rather a tool that can be utilized in special circumstances (like this one) where the good outweighs the potential bad.

His water dish is about an inch deep but ive never seen him use it

With some BP's it is very rare to see them drink. I have a few that I have never seen drink, but every so often half the dish is empty (not just natural evaporation). They drink at night most of the time.

As for soaking most won't do that, but it is good (if possible this is not a necessary thing) to have a dish big enough that they can if they so chose. Some will soak before a shed, most won't.. but the point is that they have the ability to.

One of the times I was moving Uro around when he frist arrived, he attempted to strike, so I feel compelled to ask, if he does it and ends up getting me, do I have to worry about him hurtin himself? I'm a pretty tough guy so Im not to worried about if he'll hurt me.

So I went ahead and ordered my thermostat and 2 hides, and will probably order Uro's new habitat on monday. So far the only good choice I seem to have made on my own was joining the forum! Lol. Thanks a lot guys.