I would like some info on animal plastics and Spyder Robotics Herpstat.

Okay here is my concerns, I have a 30x12reptile aquarium with a screen top. i have a heat pad that is rated for a 20-30 gallon tank. It did get cold over night and when i got up in the morning my tempature gauge that was over the warm side, an inch from the top and on the back wall,was at 70. The other side was 68. When i arrived at home, the warm side was 85 and when I picked him up he was comfortable warm.
It is making me think that I need to get into PVC cages and get a Spyder Robotics thermostats. Also what is the lighting situations.if i get the white fluorescent light, do i need a heat lamp.do i leave the heating up to the heating pad? How is the 11 inch flexwatt heat pad?
I think I am interested in the T3.
I would like to get other peoples opinions and information before I make take this path.

Thank yall for any and all information given.
~Brian :-)

Paging Dr. Aaron...Paging Dr. Aaron :rofl:

Welcome to BP.net!

We happen to have an expert on AP cages and Herpstat thermostats...

He should be here to help you with your questions in a jiffy!

In the mean time, please take a look at this:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...highlight=cage

From the way you describe the thermometer, it seems like you are measuring ambient temps and not the actual hotspot, which is probably too hot if the heating element is not regulated. Another thing to pick up with your new purchases would be a temp gun, they are invaluable for measuring surface temperatures and are all around fun to play with!

I would go with the T8 and not the T3, you can always use the divider to make the living space smaller if you feel the need, and when using the divider you can keep 2 BP's in the same cage. Sim already posted a link to my thread, it should answer most of your questions. If not feel free to ask.

I use AP cages and spyder robotics thermostats for all of my reptiles. It is a great combo.

To answer your questions directly:

No heat lamps are required. Depending on how cold your room gets you might want to get a Radiant heat panel instead of flexwatt

The 11" flexwatt is all I use in most of my cages. It works great, but my room temperature never drops below 70 degrees. AP cages are very well insulated, and tend to stay a few degrees warmer than the room they are in.

Slim- i read the it all and it was very informational! I think i might end up with a T8, but ill try to investigate more on what i would like.

Garden- that is true, they are just petsmart coil temp gauges. but i will be getting me a temp gun soon too.

Thank You both for yalls input. :-)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BPro927

Slim- i read the it all and it was very informational!

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You are most welcome, Sir, but the Thanks goes to Serpent Merchant. He put that thread together and keeps it updated.

What are you using to regulate your heatpad right now? I did not see that in your post.:confused:

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

What are you using to regulate your heatpad right now? I did not see that in your post.:confused:

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It is plugged straight into the wall. and it attached to the bottom of the tank. I use retiple carpet and to touch the carpet above the spot it is a nice comfortable warm.

i will be looking into a T8 with the flexwatt and the other heater aswell with probably a herpstat2.

thank you all for the info! :-)

Running a UTH unregulated (with out a thermostat) is a really bad idea. They can reach temps of 130 degrees or more, which is hot enough to cause serious thermal burns or even kill your snake.

The reptile carpet is little help. If your snake burrows under the carpet it can make the situation even worse. (I know, everyone thinks they have it set up so the snake can't get under it, but everyone is usually wrong)

If your UTH is unregulated, my advice is to turn it off until you can put it on a thermostat, or even a $12 light dimmer from Home Depot.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BPro927

I use retiple carpet and to touch the carpet above the spot it is a nice comfortable warm.

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:colbert::colbert:
You do realize a "comfortable warm" to your 98 degree body IS a burn to your cold blooded reptile, right?
You would be better off not running any type of heat at all if you are not going to regulate and monitor your heat source properly.
You need to spend your money on a thermostat BEFORE anything else;)
Your choice from a $30 Zilla up to a $300 whatever, get one before your next post is "What is wrong with my snake":taz::taz::taz:

Just to throw in my opinion I use Reptile Basics Racks and Vivarium Electronics thermostat and they make a nice combo too. Just another alternative to the AP racks and Herpstats. Always good to research and explore all your options :)

EDIT, Never mind, was thinking about the wrong person

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Slim

Paging Dr. Aaron...Paging Dr. Aaron :rofl:

Welcome to BP.net!

We happen to have an expert on AP cages and Herpstat thermostats...

He should be here to help you with your questions in a jiffy!

In the mean time, please take a look at this:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...highlight=cage

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Slim, you crack me up.

I think most has been covered. Get a thermostat ASAP, get rid of stick on dial thermometer. Get accurite one for $12 from monkey mart. I mean wall mart. Before your snake gets a serious burn. That stick on near the top doesn't come close to what the glass underneath is.

That being said I have a herpstat on a rack with tubs and love it.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

Not advocating unregulated heating elements, but my external body temperature is 88-92*F.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gardenfiend138

Not advocating unregulated heating elements, but my external body temperature is 88-92*F.

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Yea so if something feels warm compared to 88-92 degrees it will have to be more than that. Which would be too hot for a bp...

No argument here, as that was not my point. I saw that in another post and couldn't resist the opportunity to use it myself. Obviously no one on here is recommending using touch as a means of determining temperature. The OP is lucky the snake has not been injured yet, but s/he has received the advice and will hopefully make the necessary changes.

Alright I did not mean to make a thread that causes controversy. First off, the phrase “a nice comfortable warm” was what I felt was suitable for the snake. It was by no means too hot for or even close to dangerous for the snake.
Second, I appreciate greatly all the information from each and every one of you, but I have had a ball python previously for 4 years, but had to get rid of her because I moved somewhere that I was unable to keep the snake. That snake “Samara” lived in the same conditions and was well over 5 foot. She was a super healthy snake! I wanted to explore other opinions; please there is no need for the hostile tensions. The heat pad plugged into the wall in “warm to me” while being in direct contact to my skin. Now that has to go thru glass, carpet, and the hide box he is in.
Again thank you all for all your opinions and look forward to future help!
~Brian :-)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BPro927

The heat pad plugged into the wall in “warm to me” while being in direct contact to my skin. Now that has to go thru glass, carpet, and the hide box he is in.

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Brian, many keepers have felt the same way in the past, and many of them have been very wrong. Doing something the wrong way for a long time with no ill effects does not insure you for the future.

I really wish you would take our advice about the UTH. Brother, we don't just make this stuff up to mess with people we'll never meet. No one here wants your next thread to be, "Help My Snake Is Burned".

That was not the intention of my last post to be hateful or discredit other people’s advice. I am going to fix it and I am going to get the herpstat and a T8 tank.

Thank you slim and sorry for coming off inconsiderate.

~Brian :-)