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  • 04-20-2012, 08:26 PM
    Sath09
    DIY Custom Enclosures- Do's and Don'ts?
    It's been awhile since I've posted on here, but seeing how helpful you all were during the trails and tribulations of my first clutch of eggs, I'm back for more of your grade A advice!

    I'd like to do a couple of custom enclosures for my BPs, and while I'm still at the contemplative stage of the process, I'd like to start gathering intel. So I was just wondering if maybe any of you had some pointers or pictures to show off of your own custom creations?

    I've been keeping my eyes open for something I could possibly repurpose, so if your design incorporates a piece of repurposed furniture or appliance, I'd be especially interested to see it. Also I'd like to know what materials to look into and which to avoid (from what I've read pine and cedar are out of the question). So details about that would be appreciated.

    Thanks!
  • 04-20-2012, 08:31 PM
    The Serpent Merchant
    While these are not custom made, their design is very solid. might give you some ideas:

    http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...With-Pictures!
  • 04-21-2012, 04:23 PM
    Sath09
    Re: DIY Custom Enclosures- Do's and Don'ts?
    Thanks for the pics SM. Nice look. Apparently this is somewhat untreaded territory. Well, I guess I'll see what I can come up with.
  • 04-21-2012, 07:15 PM
    kitedemon
    I would suggest that the bottom be PVC not expanded just regular pvc belly heat is the easiest to control and the regular pvc is a great medium to transfer heat. The expanded pvc (pvcx) is a easy worked material but takes more effort to heat through in short it is a better insulator.

    The real question isn't what is the best design but where is it going? If you have a dedicated snake room humidity and temp regulated the design may be different than one in the living room. The needs change, a cool room location needs to preserve heat a warm place may need to 'shed' heat.

    Round corners never go wrong as few places for dirt to hide the better. I like glass sliding doors but I have a BD enclosure with opening plexi doors and rope hinges. That is working very very well.

    Dimensions the foot print is variable but I would not suggest height over 18 inches and 12-14 to be better it is too hard to hold humidity and heat in very tall enclosures.

    One of mine I designed and built.

    http://images17.fotki.com/v147/photo...31/0128-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

    http://images114.fotki.com/v74/photo...CA_1048-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

    http://images116.fotki.com/v618/phot...CA_1045-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki
  • 04-21-2012, 07:35 PM
    RestlessRobie
    Re: DIY Custom Enclosures- Do's and Don'ts?
    I made mine out of Recycled pallets foot print of 4X2X12 or so Used PVCX on the side back and top and Glass for the bottom with sliding glass door. Radiant heat Panel for ambient and Flexwatt for UTH. Was very easy to make just bought some 2X2 dougfir notched is 1/2 in on the inside to install the 1/4 glass and PVCX used some foam insulation on the sides and bought some 1 inch siding vents for ventilation I will have it completed in a couple days so I can post some pics for you then :)
  • 04-21-2012, 07:47 PM
    RestlessRobie
    Re: DIY Custom Enclosures- Do's and Don'ts?
    Here are some pics of what I have so far still waiting on the RHP to arrive from RBI so I havent installed the doors yet but Glass was purchased from a local glass company and was about $80 for the glass bottom Doors and Door tracks
    Lumber was about $60 or so including misc hardware purchased like screws and stuff. I bought the PVCX from a local sign shop for $40 or so and spent a couple days cutting and fitting stuff together Ill get the pics up when its done but this should give you a great Ideas for a design. :D

    https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...36676708_n.jpg

    https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...77348362_n.jpg

    https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...60859309_n.jpg

    https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...69469281_n.jpg
  • 04-21-2012, 09:57 PM
    SlitherinSisters
    Don'ts I can think of right off the bat, don't leave any exposed wood, cover all the wood with tiles or something. A lot of woods have toxins in them, or they can get wet and moldy. And don't use any tape, tape can pull your snakes skin off.
  • 04-21-2012, 09:58 PM
    Sath09
    Looks like it's coming along nicely Robie. Can't wait to see it finished. I'm curious, what's the standard on glass thickness? What's too thin? Obviously you don't want the snake to be able to smash it if he unwisely decides to strike out at it, but it seems like there'd be some wiggle room as far as that goes.

    Haha... Rope hinges, wouldn't have thought of that. I'll keep what you've said in mind as I look around for possibilities. Thanks guys!
  • 04-21-2012, 10:16 PM
    Sath09
    Re: DIY Custom Enclosures- Do's and Don'ts?
    SS - No tape. Got it. Though, I've seen people leave wood exposed in their builds, but they emphasize the varnishing/sealing part. The one I saw recommended a non-toxic varnish, which besides tung oil, I didn't know existed. But I can see where snake urine and wood might not be great companions.

    You mentioned tile, which I thought of, pretty good material at transferring heat, that's what they pair in-floor heating with usually anyway. Could be a cozy alternative to glass on the bottom. I'll have to look into that more thoroughly. Thanks.
  • 04-21-2012, 10:23 PM
    The Serpent Merchant
    my cages have 1/4" thick glass. I wouldn't go any thinner than that.
  • 04-22-2012, 01:35 AM
    RestlessRobie
    Re: DIY Custom Enclosures- Do's and Don'ts?
    Aye I went with 1/4 inch glass on the bottom and doors :P
  • 04-22-2012, 09:17 AM
    kitedemon
    I have tried tile I didn't find it very efficient. Let me use mine as an example the flexwatt is at 91 the floor is 90. When I had a tile floored one I had the flexwatt at 100 to get 90. Many resellers of flexwatt don't recommend using sustained temps over 100 so that in my case was out. I have yet to find anything as efficient as PVC it works like wood and heats super easily.
  • 04-22-2012, 02:48 PM
    Sath09
    Re: DIY Custom Enclosures- Do's and Don'ts?
    1/4". Very well, I shall make it my standard. Noted on the tile, Kite. Thanks for all the wonderful advice. I feel better prepared for further cotemplation. If I think of more specific questions, I will be sure to relay them to you. :)
  • 04-22-2012, 03:22 PM
    luvmyballs
    Re: DIY Custom Enclosures- Do's and Don'ts?
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by RestlessRobie View Post
    Here are some pics of what I have so far still waiting on the RHP to arrive from RBI so I havent installed the doors yet but Glass was purchased from a local glass company and was about $80 for the glass bottom Doors and Door tracks
    Lumber was about $60 or so including misc hardware purchased like screws and stuff. I bought the PVCX from a local sign shop for $40 or so and spent a couple days cutting and fitting stuff together Ill get the pics up when its done but this should give you a great Ideas for a design. :D

    https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...36676708_n.jpg

    https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...77348362_n.jpg

    https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...60859309_n.jpg

    https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...69469281_n.jpg

    I hope you seal the pallet wood very very well. Most pallet's are treated with pestacides and antifungal sprays. I wouldn't personaly get it anywhere near my snakes.
  • 04-23-2012, 01:06 AM
    RestlessRobie
    Re: DIY Custom Enclosures- Do's and Don'ts?
    Aye they are cut and sanded then sealed the pallet wood is just used for the appearance around enclosure. I have no exposed wood anywhere near the snakes all the interior is either PVCX or Glass
  • 04-23-2012, 05:10 PM
    kitedemon
    RestlessRobie just a quick comment if (it is IF) there is anti pest fungal treatment on the wood it will out gas for years (designed to) the wood needs to be sealed inside and out. I can't say there is any some pallets have tons and some have none. I am guessing you have sealed it anyway but if not it is something to consider. A marine varnish (NOT a spar varnish) would be my suggestion they contain less voids and more 'solids'
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