Temps<>Up and Down

The temps in my BPs enclousure for the warm side surface was reading 98 degrees when i got home today. Not Ambient temp, just the surface temp under his hide. I do not have a thermastat rite now it failed. But he does not move to the cool side really that much. Is it possible that he is comfortable with this surface temp? Is this ok or must it be fixed right away?

Fix it. You don't want him getting burned, and 98 is enough to get him burned. If you need to order a whole new thermostat go to Lowe's or Home Depot or somewhere and buy a lamp dimmer. That should hold you over until you can get a new thermostat. Don't let your heat source run unchecked with a snake in there. It's dangerous.

No, BP's will burn themselves. just because he is staying there doesn't mean that it is safe. you need a new thermostat now. (what type were you using? and what type of heat source do you have?)

I have beenn putting it on a timer for right now to try and cool it down during the day, but it still gets that hot in a few hours. Could it be the Thermometer? It was fine and reading 88 a few days ago and since i cleaned the cage it has been way hotter

i was using this Zilla Thermostat and the UTH is the same.

ok that's your problem. that thermostat isn't worth the plastic it was made out of.

The UTH you're using can and will get up to 130 degrees. Far more than enough to kill your BP. For now you need to get a lamp dimmer like this to manually control the UTH until your new thermostat arrives.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...5f%2d100145680

When you get a new thermostat don't even go to the pet store. None of the crap they sell there is worth your money. Here are 2 good thermostats:

1. the hydrofarm. Sold on Amazon for $30 these are the minimum that is considered safe. They aren't very accurate but will get the job done on a budget.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR..._bxgy_ol_img_b

2. The Herpstat. These are the best you can get, but cost more. (starting at $99) They are extremely accurate and have many built in safety features.

http://spyderrobotics.com/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

The Herpstat. These are the best you can get, but cost more. (starting at $99) They are extremely accurate and have many built in safety features.

http://spyderrobotics.com/

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x2 I love my Herpstat 1! It keeps things perfect and considering your snake can last you 20-30 years it deserves a good T-stat. I wouldn't waste money on cheap T-stats because in my experience cheap crap makes you spend more $. There are exceptions but even when a good herpstat fails it fails off and won't hurt or kill your pet.

I was using a dimmer but even then you will be constantly adjusting as it doesn't take much change in the room to make a large impact on your cage. If you have a very even and controlled room temp then a dimmer may serve but I would not chance it.

A newbs 2 cents.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

ok that's your problem. that thermostat isn't worth the plastic it was made out of.

The UTH you're using can and will get up to 130 degrees. Far more than enough to kill your BP. For now you need to get a lamp dimmer like this to manually control the UTH until your new thermostat arrives.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...5f%2d100145680

When you get a new thermostat don't even go to the pet store. None of the crap they sell there is worth your money. Here are 2 good thermostats:

1. the hydrofarm. Sold on Amazon for $30 these are the minimum that is considered safe. They aren't very accurate but will get the job done on a budget.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR..._bxgy_ol_img_b

2. The Herpstat. These are the best you can get, but cost more. (starting at $99) They are extremely accurate and have many built in safety features.

http://spyderrobotics.com/

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Another great post by The Serpent Merchant! I will second this advice! :gj:

Sorry for the thread hijack, but something I've been wondering for a while... we run at 98.6 but I have yet to burn Quetzal with just my hands, so how is 98 able to burn a snake? o.O

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jazi

Sorry for the thread hijack, but something I've been wondering for a while... we run at 98.6 but I have yet to burn Quetzal with just my hands, so how is 98 able to burn a snake? o.O

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Your internal temperature is 98.6. Your skin is actually much cooler on average. 98 degrees over an extended period of time in unhealthy for a ball python. It might not burn them in the sense you're thinking of (blisters, etc) but it isn't good for them. Now, if your unregulated heat mat gets to 130 degrees, it most certainly can cause severe burns. I've seen reptiles with burns from them.

I use a temp gun on my arm and it is 90? It was only 94-95 after a hot shower. Internal temperatures are higher. I am not sure what would start to burn a BP but I think mimicking natural habitat temperatures is an important part of reptile husbandry. Going beyond may impose risks and in the case of an unregulated UTH I measured and Zilla heat pad on an empty gecko enclosure at 133f.

Just my thoughts. (Sorry to the OP for contributing to the hijack)

LOL AK907 I was writing as you posted! :O

98 isn't going to give a BP a bad burn, extended exposure will make a burn worse though. Bad burns require higher temperatures.

98 is still too hot even if it doesn't pose a high risk of burns.

*EDIT*

I see I am late to the party lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AK907

Your internal temperature is 98.6. Your skin is actually much cooler on average. 98 degrees over an extended period of time in unhealthy for a ball python. It might not burn them in the sense you're thinking of (blisters, etc) but it isn't good for them. Now, if your unregulated heat mat gets to 130 degrees, it most certainly can cause severe burns. I've seen reptiles with burns from them.

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Oh yes, I've always had a thermostat on my heating pad as I think the two people who got me into BPs would have given me a good wallop had I skipped over that detail, and his hot spot doesn't go over 92. I've just been curious about that for a while since our internal temp is within the "burn" range for them, but my hands have never caused a burn. Thanks for clearing that up for me :3

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jazi

Oh yes, I've always had a thermostat on my heating pad as I think the two people who got me into BPs would have given me a good wallop had I skipped over that detail, and his hot spot doesn't go over 92. I've just been curious about that for a while since our internal temp is within the "burn" range for them, but my hands have never caused a burn. Thanks for clearing that up for me :3

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:gj:

Nopers, you won't burn them with your hands. I worry about my wife giving ours a cold, though. It can be 114 degrees in the shade and her hands are still ice cold! :D

98º is not going to burn a snake. 100º either rats body temp is about 100º normally. The problem is that their body core temp gets too warm the body functions shut down. At 98 for too long they will stop digesting and given time liver kidneys will follow and death not far behind. Temps over 120 are needed for a thermal burn. Remember they will lay on a hot surface and the contact temps will increase from the body insulation. This can get them quite a lot warmer than the raw surface temp is reading.

I have a theory it is not backed up by tests but I have had 2 respected vets and a breeder agree it is sound.

If you are finding you snake staying on a hot surface and not regulating look to the ambient air temps. Snakes need to hold a correct core temp just like you or I do. They need to use external sources to do so. The lung of a snake is very large and runs 1/2 to 2/3 the body length. It runs past the heart, liver and all the large circulatory system. If the air temp IN the lung is cool (ambient air temps too low) the blood is chilled and core temps drop. The animal will compensate to try to raise the core temp by laying on the hot surface. With a very cool ambient air temp it is unlikely that surface temps alone will do much for the core temps. Core temp is a hardwired imperative so the snake will not move away from the heat no matter what.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

I have a theory it is not backed up by tests but I have had 2 respected vets and a breeder agree it is sound.

If you are finding you snake staying on a hot surface and not regulating look to the ambient air temps. Snakes need to hold a correct core temp just like you or I do. They need to use external sources to do so. The lung of a snake is very large and runs 1/2 to 2/3 the body length. It runs past the heart, liver and all the large circulatory system. If the air temp IN the lung is cool (ambient air temps too low) the blood is chilled and core temps drop. The animal will compensate to try to raise the core temp by laying on the hot surface. With a very cool ambient air temp it is unlikely that surface temps alone will do much for the core temps. Core temp is a hardwired imperative so the snake will not move away from the heat no matter what.

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Makes perfect sense to me. Kind of like when my dog lays too close to the campfire on a cold night and we have to stop him from catching his fur! :O Just trying to use a localized heat source to warm his entire body.