Ball Pythons Won't Eat

Hey Guys!

So I've been reading and researching for about 3 months before I finally got a pair of well started ball pythons, a pastel and a bumblebee!

They are beautiful snakes, however, they won't eat!

I got them about 4 weeks ago, and tried feeding them starting 3 weeks ago.
The breeder said they were feeding on live rat pups every 5-7 days or so.

I want to get them started on f/t, but they just won't take them.
I've tried f/t rat pups, rat pinkies, and even hopper mice.
I've tried scenting with tuna, warming them with hot water, headsplitting and still no go.
I've even tried feeding them rat pups, but they just won't take it.
I have even tried assist feeding today because I was feeling desperate, however, that was just stressful for me and the snakes because I thought I was going to hurt them. Of course they just spat the f/t stuff back out.

The temperatures are 91 on the warm side and ~76 on the cooler side.
Humidity is ~60 +-5.
They are in 32qt tubs with 2 hides each and a water bowl.

I've talked with the reputable breeder suggested moving them into a smaller enclosure, and I am setting up 15qt tubs for them right now. I don't handle them and try feeding every 5-7 days starting 3 weeks ago.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

i am having the same problem i think they aint eating just because it is breeding season

Did you allow for an adequate acclimation period? You will get mixed reviews on here, some say wait a week until you try to feed, some say to feed on your regular feeding day no matter how new they are.

Have you spoken to your breeder about past husbandry that he had other than tub size? Substrate? # of Hides? His temps?

Also what about how he was feeding? Out of tongs or placing the live into the tubs?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mbaker8686

Did you allow for an adequate acclimation period?

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I've noticed more and more people are getting too impatient to even read the entire post.... He clearly stated he waited a week before feeding. Not trying to be a wank, but it was his third sentance in and it would appear you never even made it that far.

Anyways, to the issue at hand. Just a few thoughts that might work:
-Try feeding at night or in the evening;
-I feed F/T and the time between placement and striking is usually significantly reduced if I turn the light off and leave the room as opposed to sitting there watching (a note, they should be checked periodically if your leaving the room, I'm not suggesting you throw a prey item in the enclosure and leave for the night);
-If you trying F/T, ensure the food item is thawed and reheat it to around 100F, I use a hair dryer so the food item stays dry; and,
-I've read different color prey items might work, some pythons won't eat white mice for instance.

Good luck!

Well first off what were they eating before you got them and how old / large are they.

Ball pythons need some time to get adjusted generally I try not to mess with them for 7 day and will offer food if they seem interested if they don't I'll not offer and wait 7 more days and see what they are doing at that point. Personally all the snakes I have had all have eaten in 14 days from arrival.

Your cool side is a bit low what is the air temp?

Are you taking temps under the hides or else where?

Hi,

I would porobably keep feeding them live as the breeder did until they were well settled and feeding on a good routine for you - then try and convert them to F/T.


dr del

Thanks for all the replies.

I did forget to list that they are mid 2011's.

I am taking the temps under the hides, air temp is ~73ish.

I have tried feeding at night and feeding different colored rats.

I might just try feeding live like the breeder, do you have any suggestions on how to feed live rat pups? Can i leave the rat pup in there overnight? Or do I take it out after half an hour or so?

Thanks again!

73 is quite cool for ambient temps air temps should be ideally 78-85 I would suggest feeding the same as the breeder was and bump the ambient temps up a notch.

Snakes lung and the air temp inside it effects the snake's core temps greatly. There is some question if surface temps alone can over come cool ambient temps.

No keep an eye on the rat and provide it with food in the snakes enclosure.

What is a good way to bump the ambient temperature up?

Do i just add another heat pad? Or should I just move the snakes over to a smaller tub and have the hot spot heat pad cover more of the tank?

Thanks!

Let me make sure and read the whole post 5 times so I have everything......ok good.

I use a contained oil space heater with a thermostat to raise ambient temps. You just have to be careful and recognize that the thermostats are not always accurate, so you should use a digital thermometer and try and figure out what setting will achieved your desired ambient temp.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bfirecat

What is a good way to bump the ambient temperature up?

Do i just add another heat pad? Or should I just move the snakes over to a smaller tub and have the hot spot heat pad cover more of the tank?

Thanks!

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Since you only have 2 BPs (I think), a space heater to warm the entire room is probably overkill. If you aren't opposed to higher heating bills, you can bump your house/apartment thermostat a few degrees. You can insulate three sides and 3/4 of the top of the tank with cardboard or some type of sheeting - glass does not hold heat in well (I recommend this even if you heat your house some more). If these don't do the trick, place a ceramic heat bulb or infrared bulb outside the cage and regulate it with a thermostat to get the proper ambient temps.

What size enclosure are they in, if downsizing is a 15qt? Are they housed together or separately?

I agree with the recommendations to stick with the prey that the breeders was feeding before trying to switch them to what you want to feed - baby steps.

Thanks again for all the replies.

They are housed in separate 32qt sterilite tubs.
I just got a space heater and set it to 80, going to leave them alone for a couple days before I give them a live rat pup each, hopefully they take them now...

If not, then I will move them over to the 15qt tubs (which is what the breeder recommended).

Thanks!

I am also new to ball pythons (actually snakes period). I tried two unsuccessful feedings with my 7 months old. I was attempting to feed F/T as well and she showed very little interest. The breeder was feeding live as is yours. I waited the acclimation period as well of almost two weeks. It was pointed out that it is a lot of change for the snake to go through in a short amount of time. New cage, new environment, noises, smells etc. Now a new food source. It may be a little too much to change everything.

It was suggested to me to keep feeding what the breeder was feeding her for the first 6 feedings or so until she is very comfortable and then slowly change her over to F/T. After 6 or more feedings of live, try freshly killed (pet stores will sometimes assist if that is too hard for you), then after a few successes try offering F/T. I plan to follow this advise.

I tried offering a live rat last Saturday and after a few minutes BANG! I was the happiest pet owner on the face of the earth! Last night was the second live feeding and it went even easier. I stand over like a hawk with an unsharpened pencil and tongs handy incase the rat claws or bites while being constricted but it has gone well so far. I still plan to move over to F/T. It is more important to me that she eats regularly then how she eats but to each his own. Just thought I would share because that took a world of stress off of me.

I hope it works out well for you. Good luck!

Just an update for you guys!

I tried feeding at night again with the frozen thawed.
The bumblebee and pastel showed no interest again.

I left the warm rat pups inside their hide box and came back 2 hours later.
The bumblebee left her's alone, but the pastel took his!

So good news is the pastel ate one, then a second one right after!
The bad news is the bumblebee still isn't eating...

And yes, they are in separate tubs =P

that is a start. Did you say the breeder was feeding live? if so you may want to try the bee live. If not just keep the temps spot an and give it some time and try again.

If your are worried I will second Kitedemon's advise regarding attempting live feeding with the bumblebee. I really wanted to feed F/T too but once she took a live twice enthusiastically I knew it was just too much change too fast. I figure it is more important that she is feeding every week for a while until trying to switch her over on to F/T. I still want to switch her over but just in time.

Glad your pastel took it. Your half way there now!

Here's a tip you can try

First off you should stop handling your BP once you realise it's off feed, this can sometimes be a sign of stress.

TIP:
Place the prey item in the BP's enclosure and cover the enclosure with a towel to make it dark.

Check a few hours to see if your BP ate.

My BP was off feed for 9 weeks for the first time in her life in 10 years and this was just an idea that hit me, I tried it and it worked.

Thanks to Morgan from Home Grown Scales for all the advice. She answered every question I threw at her and in a timely manner.

Before live for the bee I would try fresh Kill. Might be the temps are not right, might be that they were previously on mice and not rats.

My normal was on mice when I got him, went right to rats and now will not touch mice.

they are extremely picky you just have to find that niche and you will be good !

times of day matter nothing to my guys as I feed them on my schedule, day or night.

sometimes I have also noticed size matters... Maybe try something a little bigger it brings out that "Oh Shyte if I don't eat it it might eat me" thing !! then once they eat they realize oh man that wasn't bad ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bfirecat

The breeder said they were feeding on live rat pups every 5-7 days or so.

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Personally if this is what the bee was eating this is exactly what I'd try.Not P/K not mice or anything other than what the animal had been eating before. Wait a couple of weeks and try again be patient. You might want to record the bee's weight just so you can keep an eye on the over all health.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

personally if this is what the bee was eating this is exactly what i'd try.not p/k not mice or anything other than what the animal had been eating before. Wait a couple of weeks and try again be patient. You might want to record the bee's weight just so you can keep an eye on the over all health.

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x2

I agree feed live and do baby steps. I have one snake (not my balls) that refuses to take f/t but she takes pre killed/fresh killed. It is a step. We started her out stunned (we just hit them in the head kinda hard) then moved to fresh killed. (Hope PETA dont see that lol).

If you do feed live, I take mine out and put in rubbermaid totes to feed. That way if something happens I can be right there. With all the cage furnishings, just seems easier. (Another benefit from that is when I go to put my hand in the cage later they dont think I am bringing food and try to bite).

Thanks to all that replied!

Updates!

The pastel continues to eat 1-2 f/t rat pups.
The bumblebee finally ate! 2 small live rat pups.
She seemed to be afraid of them, but I put her and 2 pups in the hide, and closed it off. Went to study for a midterm, came back and she ate them both!

That's a relief!

Thanks again everyone!

That is great news but one word of caution.... you should never leave a live rat alone with your snake(s). I am not sure if rat pups can harm but I think it is always good practice to watch and make sure everything goes alright. Just my opinion. I am very happy it finally ate for you!

Thanks!

Yeah, I have read a couple horror stories about rats and ball pythons.
I figured that a rat pup that could barely crawl could not damage the bumblebee, so I took a risk =P

Great news! they are funny and very sensitive to changes. Lots of cover and proper hides correct temps and you should be golden. After 5 or 6 successful feedings then you can think about switching if you want.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ExotixTowing

Might be the temps are not right, might be that they were previously on mice and not rats.

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The OP clearly stated that they were previously on rats. He also clearly stated he fixed his temp issues. :rolleyes:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bfirecat

Thanks!

Yeah, I have read a couple horror stories about rats and ball pythons.
I figured that a rat pup that could barely crawl could not damage the bumblebee, so I took a risk =P

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By rat pup that can barely crawl I assume you're referring to something along the lines of a fuzzy or so and doesn't even have its eyes open. If so, fear not. They will not harm your snake at that size and they can safely be left alone with your snake. Glad you got them eating again. Balls can be a real pain in the butt sometimes, huh? It is part of their charm. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trochu

I've noticed more and more people are getting too impatient to even read the entire post.... He clearly stated he waited a week before feeding. Not trying to be a wank, but it was his third sentance in and it would appear you never even made it that far.

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Thank you! This is one of my pet peeves and I'm glad someone has the guts to say it! :gj: