New owner/ Feeding, Temp , Humidity issues

Hi,

Great forum you have here. Very informative. Me and my girl just got a BP rescue about 5 weeks ago. First time snake owners. The rescue group told us he hadn't eaten in about 6 days. We had to wait for another week till the frozen rats arrived , and fed him about a week after getting him. He immediately wrapped the rat up, and fed beautifully. We offered him food a week later, and another succes . Now, here is where things change.. We upgraded his cage from a 30 inch long to a 48 inch ..the night we did this, it was feeding time again, and he did indeed eat . But the last two times we have offered, he hasnt eaten :( he now has spent the last 3 days under his hide , on the hot side. He used to come out at night and explore , but stopped doing that.

I have a UTH on the hot side , with a Vivarium VE-100 set to 90. The temp inside his hide is about 87-88. The cool side is at 82. These temps I have now are better than what I was getting with the smaller cage .. It took me a few weeks to get it down. I have the hide box with moss inside and the humidity is between 45-55.

So is he just getting used to his new cage? Could this be the non eating issue? I have read on here that a hiding ball python is a happy ball python, so I am just wondering...we are planning on offering him food again tomorrow..it will have been 8 days between the last attempt.

Thank you for any info you can provide!

Mark and christine

Oh and he is 43 inches long..and he fed 3 times succesfully before he went on his eating strike...and I am using a temp gun and digital hydrometer

I'm pretty new to bps myself maybe bump the hot side up a degree? Is that the humidity of the viv or just the moist hide? What are your ambient air temps? You don't want anything in there lower than 75 degrees.

The first comment is snakes are all individuals some do well in large enclosures some not so well. It could be stress of moving or just getting used to things or just not interested. It also could be the new enclosure is too big for this snake. Hard to say for sure. I'd try adding some cover plants or something over head and try to bump the hot side temp a touch to 90 under the hide. And leave him be for 2 weeks then try again. Just spot clean and fresh water and that is it give him a chance to adjust.

Yea, he could be happy in his new home or check on him and see of he's getting ready to shed.

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Originally Posted by tlich

I'm pretty new to bps myself maybe bump the hot side up a degree? Is that the humidity of the viv or just the moist hide? What are your ambient air temps? You don't want anything in there lower than 75 degrees.

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The humidity is in the hide itself...I have about 3/4 of the top covered with tin foil and mist twice a day...the ambient temps are hovering around 78-80

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Originally Posted by mrkrec

The humidity is in the hide itself...I have about 3/4 of the top covered with tin foil and mist twice a day...the ambient temps are hovering around 78-80

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Ambient temps are good, do you use another heat source to keep ambient temps up? That could mess with your humidity. I would increase the hot side to 90, but as for not eating my guess would be the move, like said above try adding some fake leaves or anything to take up some room if there's too much open, my Bp didn't eat until the 3rd week when I first got him or her, no need to worry really

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Originally Posted by tlich

Ambient temps are good, do you use another heat source to keep ambient temps up? That could mess with your humidity. I would increase the hot side to 90, but as for not eating my guess would be the move, like said above try adding some fake leaves or anything to take up some room if there's too much open, my Bp didn't eat until the 3rd week when I first got him or her, no need to worry really

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Thanks for the feedback! Appreciate it!

Nothing to worry about at least not yet. I agree that you could bump the hot side temperature up a little. I keep my BP's in 48" x 24" x 12" (L x W x H) sized cages, so it can be done. Your BP might just need some time to settle in, or it could be totally unrelated and the timing was just bad.

Sounds like you are using a glass tank, is their the case?

If so you could try "blacking out" 3 sides (left, right, back) this will make your BP feel more secure in his cage, and might help with feeding. This can be accomplished by taping construction paper to the outside of the cage. You could also use insulation board. this helps maintain temperatures as well as providing more security.

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

Nothing to worry about at least not yet. I agree that you could bump the hot side temperature up a little. I keep my BP's in 48" x 24" x 12" (L x W x H) sized cages, so it can be done. Your BP might just need some time to settle in, or it could be totally unrelated and the timing was just bad.

Sounds like you are using a glass tank, is their the case?

If so you could try "blacking out" 3 sides (left, right, back) this will make your BP feel more secure in his cage, and might help with feeding. This can be accomplished by taping construction paper to the outside of the cage. You could also use insulation board. this helps maintain temperatures as well as providing more security.

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Yeah it's a glass tank . I was just researching blacking out the cages. Great idea.

One more question... I got the thermostat set to 90..when I get a reading about 2 inches above the substrate( im using astro turf) in front of his hide, it's reading over 100.. Like 102! But inside the hide it's at about 88 or so.. He isn't getting burned is he by lying on it?.. It's only in this one spot right in front .. I have the overhead lamp on as well..

is the thermostat probe directly under the Heat lamp? is the probe inside the hide?

I wouldn't put the probe inside the hide for this very reason, the hide will cause the temperatures inside to be lower than the temperatures outside of the hide.

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

is the thermostat probe directly under the Heat lamp? is the probe inside the hide?

I wouldn't put the probe inside the hide for this very reason, the hide will cause the temperatures inside to be lower than the temperatures outside of the hide.

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I have the probe in between the UTH and the glass under the tank.. My Vivarium says the probe is at 90..

Ok, I'm sorry I got this thread mixed up with another.

Are you using a heat lamp as well? UTH's do not change the temperature of the air in the tank. What are you using to measure temperatures?

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

Ok, I'm sorry I got this thread mixed up with another.

Are you using a heat lamp as well? UTH's do not change the temperature of the air in the tank. What are you using to measure temperatures?

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I'm using a temp gun...perhaps because I'm so close to the substrate the gun spikes?

I used black foam board and black duct tape on my glass tank, helps insulate and the black on black don't look bad, do you have something controlling the heat lamp "thermo/rheostat"? I also have my water bowl directly under my heat lamp in the center of the tank so I don't have the temp spikes on substrate from the heat lamp.

Edit: What kind of bulb in the heat lamp? Daytime bulb would suggest you get night time temp drops when its off is why I'm asking.

Ok so are you using the temp gun to measure air temperature?

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Originally Posted by tlich

I used black foam board and black duct tape on my glass tank, helps insulate and the black on black don't look bad, do you have something controlling the heat lamp "thermo/rheostat"? I also have my water bowl directly under my heat lamp in the center of the tank so I don't have the temp spikes on substrate from the heat lamp.

Edit: What kind of bulb in the heat lamp? Daytime bulb would suggest you get night time temp drops when its off is why I'm asking.

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I have the zoo- med day time and blue fluorescent night time lights.. On the hot side , I have a 100 watt with a dimmer and on the cool side I have a 60 watt .. No dimmer.. And I just moved my hot side lamp directly above my water bowl..

I personally just use an infrared heat bulb 24/7, one less lamp and bulb, one less thing to worry about.. I also use it on a rheostat

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

Ok so are you using the temp gun to measure air temperature?

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I have a digital thermometer to measure the ambient temps..

Ok, I would guess that your heat lamp is set too high, and I Agee with the post above, a single Infrared bulb that runs 24/7 is preferred.

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Originally Posted by tlich

I personally just use an infrared heat bulb 24/7, one less lamp and bulb, one less thing to worry about.. I also use it on a rheostat

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Well here is another question that I've heard different opinions on..do they even need a 12/12 day/night light cycle? Cause I sometimes just keep the red night light on all day..

A daylight/dark period is not totally required, at least not an artificial one. The difference in the amount of light in the room during the day and the lack of light at night is usually enough. I have kept BP's in a cage with just an infrared bulb in the past with no negative effects.

And running your day time light will increase the temps, even fluorescent tubes give off some heat, not sure if it would effect the temps enough to make a difference, but back to you having readings of 102 in the enclosure, would not be good if these are accurate.

Edit: referring to running both lamps at the same time will increase the temps, so when shutting one off at night will give u night drops

Hello, and :welcome: to BP.net...

Was the refused rat larger than the previous rats that you offered? If it was, try offering a one that is a little smaller. Since your snake, at 41 inches, is clearly an adult, you could try putting it on a 10 day feeding schedule. Also, since you are feeding F/T, if he doesn't take the rat right away, try placing it about 2-3 inches in front of his hide, and leave it over night. sometimes BP's will come out later and eat. And, if he still refuses to eat, try switching to Aspen substrate. If you do this, make sure the substrate layer is only about 1/2 to 1 inch thick. Good Luck...:gj:

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Originally Posted by Vypyrz

Hello, and :welcome: to BP.net...

Was the refused rat larger than the previous rats that you offered? If it was, try offering a one that is a little smaller. Since your snake, at 41 inches, is clearly an adult, you could try putting it on a 10 day feeding schedule. Also, since you are feeding F/T, if he doesn't take the rat right away, try placing it about 2-3 inches in front of his hide, and leave it over night. sometimes BP's will come out later and eat. And, if he still refuses to eat, try switching to Aspen substrate. If you do this, make sure the substrate layer is only about 1/2 to 1 inch thick. Good Luck...:gj:

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Thanks!

Ok , I just checked on him.. And his eyes are bluish/ cloudy wich means shed correct? So what do I do at this point?.. Just leave him alone as I've been doing ? And how many days am I looking at?

Yes, this means shed. you need to boost the humidity to 60%-80%, and leave him alone. after a few days his eyes will return to normal and a few days after that he will actually shed. your looking at about a week total. maybe more maybe less. Just keep the humidity up and everything should be fine.

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

Yes, this means shed. you need to boost the humidity to 60%-80%, and leave him alone. after a few days his eyes will return to normal and a few days after that he will actually shed. your looking at about a week total. maybe more maybe less. Just keep the humidity up and everything should be fine.

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Since hes in shed , I assume I don't offer him food? Even though he hasn't eaten in 2 weeks?

Some will take food when in shed, some will not it doesn't hurt to offer.

I would wait until he completes his shed. Often times, they'll defecate at the same time. So leave him alone - nice and quiet and stress free and wait until he's finished. Then it's your call - wait a couple of days and offer food or a day or whenever....but I would definately wait until after the shed. 2 weeks isn't long for a ball python and most wont eat during a shed cycle anyways.
All the best with your new guy :-)

But aarons right too - some eat some don't. I have a few of my boas and a couple balls that always eat regardless of whether they're in shed or not. You'll get to know your snake and when to offer, when to not...etc.