90 day old Albino not eating.

We just got our new addition to our family a few weeks ago. She's about 90 days old, a bit more than a foot long. She had been eating at the breeders every 3-5 days or so. She went through a shed once we got her and had a VERY difficult time, even with our help. Her temp is around 90 in the day and 87 at night. We have tried feeding her twice and she just ignores the mouse completely, and tries to escape. We even tried feeding her at night and day to see which was better. Neither worked. We're just very worried that she could get sick, or there is something wrong. We aren't sure how long smaller BP can go without food.

You might try posting in the Ball Pythons section under general to get more views.

In the meantime, can you tell us more about your setup? You mentioned temps, are those the hot spot or ambient? Hides? How big is the enclosure? Do you know what she was eating before you got her (mouse / rat / f/t / live....)? Do you have a weight on her?What kind of food have you offered? Are you handling her?


Sorry for all the questions, but its a lot easier to troubleshoot when we have more details.

My guess is because she cant thermoregulate with it being a constant 90 during the day, and then only cooling down to 87 at night. They need a cool end at all times, around 82. With a hot spot at 90. You can do this byheating the whole cage to 80, with a heat pad on either a thermostat or a dimmer set at 90.

Once you get this down, she'll need a hide over the hot spot, and one on the cool side. And she needs to be able to just fit in there to make her feel secure.

Also, whats your humidity at?

It's okay! Questions are good, they help figure things out. She is in a 20 gln tank. Those are the hot spots, she has two hides. One on the hot side and one on the cool. She was eating very small mice when we got her, he was trying to get her onto frozen but wasn't having much success. We have tried both frozen and live and she will eat neither. We do handle her every other day or so. It cools down at night but just those are the temps for the hot spots. Not sure on her humidity though.

Personally I never handle new additions until after they eat at least 2x for me. They seem to adjust better for me that way. Baby bp's can stress out fairly easily at times. We really could use an accurate measurement of the humidity. I also feel that a 20 gallon tank is pretty big for a baby bp. Do you have any decorations in the enclosure to help you bp to feel more secure?

Pictures of the setup, As the not eating is due to how you have it setup. at 3 months old they should be in a max 10g tank with lots of cover and hiding spots

With a 88-90 warm side and 78-80 cool side with Ambient air temp of about 79.

Constant gawking, poking and prodding will only push the not eating longer.

Im sure the breeder was feeding live, so do that as well. Only ONCE it starts eating good then can you handle it few times a week but not everyday

The enclosure sounds to large for a hatchling. If you can't get her into a smaller enclosure, try making the tank feel tight. You can add more hides or add balled up paper towel/newspaper to fill up space. Maybe even sectioning off a part of the tank until she becomes larger.

She may be stressed and needs some more time adjusting. I say leave her alone for a week and try feeding her again. This means don't touch or pick her up.

Also, do you have the exact temps? Anything over 90 is warm for a hatchling. I like to put my hatchlings at the lower end of the hot temps. All of mine are at 88. Over 90 and they stop eating. You can probably increase the heat as she gets older, but try the 88.

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Originally Posted by satomi325

The enclosure sounds to large for a hatchling. If you can't get her into a smaller enclosure, try making the tank feel tight. You can add more hides or add balled up paper towel/newspaper to fill up space. maybe even closing off a part of the tank until she becomes larger.

She may need some more time adjusting. I say leave her alone for a week and try feeding her again. This means don't touch or pick her up.

Also, 90 seems warm for a hatchling. I like to put my hatchlings at the lower end of the hot temps. All of mine are at 88. Over 90 and they stop eating. You can probably increase the heat as she gets older, but try the 88.

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Actually hatchlings NEED the warmer temps to develop good digestion habits. Too cool and they can develop regurge problems. I kee all my hatchlings at 91 and have for 10 years+. Adults i keep at 88 and not a degree more.

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Originally Posted by RichsBallPythons

Actually hatchlings NEED the warmer temps to develop good digestion habits. Too cool and they can develop regurge problems. I kee all my hatchlings at 91 and have for 10 years+. Adults i keep at 88 and not a degree more.

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Like I said, all of mine go off feed past 90 degrees.
I'd rather have them eat....
Also, I was instructed by Heather(Lady Ohh) to lower my temps to get my picky eating babies to eat and this always solved the problem.

I guess everyone different, but this works for me. I was just putting it out there as an option to the OP.

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Originally Posted by Pickle

It's okay! Questions are good, they help figure things out. She is in a 20 gln tank. Those are the hot spots, she has two hides. One on the hot side and one on the cool. She was eating very small mice when we got her, he was trying to get her onto frozen but wasn't having much success. We have tried both frozen and live and she will eat neither. We do handle her every other day or so. It cools down at night but just those are the temps for the hot spots. Not sure on her humidity though.

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You need to stop handling her period, until she is established eating. Do not hold her or pick her up or anything, cleaning only. She needs a chance to settle in. After she has eaten a few consecutive meals gradually start handling for 5 minutes at a time, and building up from there. If at any time she stops eating again, stop handling again. Make sure hot and cool side temps are right on, give two snug hides (1 in hot end, 1 in cool end), and leave her be for a week. Then try putting a live rat pup (with its eyes still closed, so it can't hurt her.) in her enclosure and cover it up, or leave the room. You will probably find the rat pup gone in the morning.

[IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/9qyaa9.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i39.tinypic.com/717beg.jpg[/IMG]

She isn't too small, but she does have a few places to hide. I will take into consideration not holding her for a while to let her adjust and hopefully become hungry and eat :/ Would you guy think to move her from her tank to a shoebox even to feed? Or just put it into her enclosure. I also believe she should just be fed live for now, but the breeder insisted we tried.

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Originally Posted by Pickle

It's okay! Questions are good, they help figure things out. She is in a 20 gln tank. Those are the hot spots, she has two hides. One on the hot side and one on the cool. She was eating very small mice when we got her, he was trying to get her onto frozen but wasn't having much success. We have tried both frozen and live and she will eat neither. We do handle her every other day or so. It cools down at night but just those are the temps for the hot spots. Not sure on her humidity though.

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Okay, I thought you meant constant all over temps.

You need to know your humidity though. Most people use some kind of accurite, they measure "indoor" temp andhumidity in the console itself (which I put on the cool end), and have a probe you can put on the hot spot. You can get the at walmart for 10 bucks.

From looking at your pictures, it seems a little open, and the hode under the light looks to be too big. I would get smaller ones that she can barely get into.

And like everyone else said, stop handling her for a bit. And feed her in the tank, moving her somewhere else to feed will just stress her out even more

Good place to start,

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...thon-CARESHEET

I have a full grown python, so I know the basics. I have just never had a baby not eat, especially with albinos being finicky eaters to begin with. I'll have to go grab a humidity control from walmart then.

If your hide holes are to large you can get some moss and add it around the hides. It's also great to hold moisture

Also no real big difference from live to f/t. Like has been mentioned thaw out a rat pup put it in there and leave it while it's dark. Chances are it will be gone in the am

I would cover 3 sides of your tanks with something to give your little gal some added security that really helps with my little guy :)

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Originally Posted by Pickle

I have a full grown python, so I know the basics. I have just never had a baby not eat, especially with albinos being finicky eaters to begin with. I'll have to go grab a humidity control from walmart then.

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I meant no disrespect, but after saying that it looks like by the pictures you are missing some "basic" husbandry things that will help your little one feel more secure and maybe eat better. It's worth a re-read....wouldn't hurt.

Like stated Cover 3 sides of the tnak to make it darker. Also cover 80% of the screen lid to hold in heat and humidity. You can do this with Alum foil then tape it down on the outside.

Next add a lot more things to the cage to clutter it up as its huge. Everything is jsut too open for the lil guy right now. Most adult males can live fine in that size tank for life.


Just work on the cluttering up, getting smaller hides, covering sides and lid. These should get him eating

Also I looks like the heat sources are plugged directly into the wall, Wheres the thermostat and the digital thermometer to read temps and humidty

Here is what I do for my tanks

Cover 3 sides with aquarium background or what ever you like Then I tape foiltape to one side of cardboard with foil tape and tape it to the outside of the tank like so

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...83841836_n.jpg

Then I cut a peice of Plexiglass I bought at Home Depot to fit the screen top and taped foil tape to the inside like so

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...64496118_n.jpg

Works great to stbilize temps and humidity :)

Well I just read it but I don't exactly see anything that i'm missing besides a humidity control. My boyfriend said the same thing with covering her to feel more secure. We'll get a back drop for her tomorrow :] The thermostats are near the top of her tank as well.

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Originally Posted by Pickle

Well I just read it but I don't exactly see anything that i'm missing besides a humidity control. My boyfriend said the same thing with covering her to feel more secure. We'll get a back drop for her tomorrow :] The thermostats are near the top of her tank as well.

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Your talking about the stick on thermometers, which are not thermostats.

YOu need digital the stickon ones only read the glass temp and not anything else.