AP t8 heating suggestions

I'm going to be ordering one of the Animal Plastics t8's next week. I don't have a dedicated snake room in which to accurately control temps. The room the cage will be in can vary from 70f in winter to 75f summer (which is why I've leaned away from a rack set-up). What are some good products and methods to control the ambient temperature inside the t8 with a reasonable amount if consistency. I plan on having it setup divided and using flexwatt paired with a herpstat for belly heat. I would appreciate any set-ups or tips you can offer.

probabaly about 2 options,,,, keep the room hotter,,, or a RHP...
spooky

My apartment stays about the same temperatures as yours, and the flexwatt heating offered by AP is all I use. A Radiant Heat Panel is the best way to maintabe ambiant temperatures if necessary. I recomend the radiant heat panels from pro products and the ones from reptile basics.

I use a RHP in mine. Works great.

I thought about using a 40watt RB rhp on each side, I guess my concern with that is the hot spot they'd create in the center of each side. From what i've read I can expect about a 90-91 degree temp 10-12" directly below the rhp. I believe on the AP cage with the divider the flexwatt is supposed to run down the length of the divider, so I wouldn't be left with much of a thermal gradient. I suppose I could mount the rhp's against the divider, but in my overcomplicated mind, im worried I would have problems keeping the hot side from becoming too hot while trying to maintain a sufficient temp on the cool side. If that makes any sense whatsoever!:confused:

I have a similar enclosure and have a 2 foot fluorescent tube it holds ambient temps quite well.

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

I have a similar enclosure and have a 2 foot fluorescent tube it holds ambient temps quite well.

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hows that work out when the lights go off???
thanks
spooky

I use 2 foot of 11" flexwatt for the hot spot and an 80 watt RHP from reptile basics.

I probably could have gone smaller on the RHP since it only kicks on for about 5-10 minutes every hour during the day. I am not sure how much it stays on at night when the temps in the room drops a few degrees.

My ambient room temps are about the same as yours as well 70-74 degrees all year round. But I do know some nights it will drop to around 68 degrees. With the RHP I am able to keep the ambient temps in the cage between 79-82 with out any issues.

I think it has a lot to do with airflow in the room as well. I keep a ceiling fan on in the room on medium all year round also. I have noticed when I turn off the ceiling fan and the room has still air the RHP rarely comes on.

The enclosures are better insulated that tubs, mine at least, lose 1 degree an hour or so. The ambient temps gain to about 85ºF and drop to around 78ºF in just over 7 hours from 8 to about 2 or 3 am. I have deep blue led lighting that keeps the ambient temp around 78-9 through the rest of the night. At 8 am the FLDs kick on again. The cool spot varies from 81º at the highest and 79ºF at the lowest. The hot spot is always 90º as long as the room doesn't drop below 63º or over 87º

I run cool end UTH system as well but it is so rarely on that it makes little to no difference.

I'd suggest it is worth a test to see how it works the option to spend on the RHP and t-stat is always open but if a 22$ option might work it is worth a shot. I would not advise testing with snakes present. My personal feeling is that you should give an enclosure completely set up a week to make sure you have dialed in the temps before adding a snake.

Would it be better to mount the rhps in the center of each section, or should I move them next to the divider which would put them somewhat above the flexwatt?

Ditto on radiant heat panels from pro products. I got a t8 and called pro products and they are shipping the heater to AP and AP will install the heater for free in the enclosure and mail it to you. Around 300$ for very thing plus you will want a thermostat. If you can get all that you really won't have to worry about heat or humidity much again.

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Originally Posted by Python260

Would it be better to mount the rhps in the center of each section, or should I move them next to the divider which would put them somewhat above the flexwatt?

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Center them. All they are doing is maintaining the air temperature. The flexwatt is more then sufficient to create the hot spot.

Alright, sounds good, I was just concerned it would potentially create another hotspot directly underneath the panel. How does price on the pro products panels compare to the ones from reptile basics?

Just remember you need a T-stat to control the flexwatt AND one for the RHP.

Herpstat makes a dual probe unit and so does ecozone and VE although I have been trying to get specs on the VE and NOBODY has been able to confirm the probe accuracy. I am up to 4 emails now over a 2 or 3 months. No answer from Reptile basics. :mad:

If you buy the appropriate size RHP, there is no need for the flex watt.