Question for Bp Owners

I have a 32 month old Ball named Don Juan,male .I want to know if a uvb lamp is required because ive never used one and my snakes fine.I use a 100 watt infared heat bulb and a 60 watt blue light.But i got a 4 month old Ball named Ceasar who is not eating would this light help.

Ball pythons do not need uvb so no this will probably not help with your snake that is not eating. Give us some information about your setup and your temps, humidity, and what kind of prey your snake was previously eating and we may be able to help you.

No Uvbs are not required and most of the time They can stress the animals out. I prefer to use uths instead of lamps. The ball that's not eating, does he have the same set up as your other one? Describe everything with as much detail as possible.


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from my little bit of experince heat lamps make your humidity drop check your humidity also if u do not have a uth then think about getting one it helps with digestion along with the heat they require also with the lights is it on all the time if not maybe ceasar is stressed try checking to see if a hide would work inanother area of the cage just check your husbandry over if that doesnt help know that bps are finicky eaters at the best of times i just went through my little guy not eating and it can be worrisome good luck get back to us on your setup like do u have a tank how big how many hides humidity, temps, how long have u had him how long has he not eaten when did he shed last and so on and so forth all the info u can think of would help and as others have said bps are nocturnal so they dont require special lighting

sorry about the run on lol im long winded and scatter brained

I have a 30 gallon tank two hides repti bark bedding humidity 50 to 70 tempature 80 through 90 all times .Bought the snake from a pet shop 3 weeks ago he said it was eating every sunday at 4 or 5 p.m.So i tried the first weak nothing second week nothing third try nothing.Ceasar is a 3 month old normal tried forzen thawed and live nothing.:mad:

Get rid of the lights and get a heatng pad, heat tap or heat cable with a thermostat.

UV lamps are not needed for ball pythons. They are nocturnal animals and lights tend to effect feeding responses negatively.

Try leaving the rat in a closed cardboard box with the snake (MAKE SURE TO LEAVE AIR HOLES).

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Originally Posted by apple2

Try leaving the rat in a closed cardboard box with the snake (MAKE SURE TO LEAVE AIR HOLES).

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And make sure the rat is dead first. Never a good idea to leave a live prey item with your snake unattended.

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Originally Posted by BrianluvsHisBall

I have a 30 gallon tank two hides repti bark bedding humidity 50 to 70 tempature 80 through 90 all times .Bought the snake from a pet shop 3 weeks ago he said it was eating every sunday at 4 or 5 p.m.So i tried the first weak nothing second week nothing third try nothing.Ceasar is a 3 month old normal tried forzen thawed and live nothing.:mad:

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30 gal. tank is to big for a baby ball.

I also have a "hunch" that you're feeding her in a separate "feeding bin"...am I correct? If so, I agree that 30 gallons is usually too big for a baby, but try feeding her in her enclosure, once you're sure your husbandry is correct. How are you reading the temps and humidity?

Ceasar still isnt eating but today i noticed hes starting his shed.So i no What the problem is.I also have zoo med heat uth .But thank you guys for help im going to weight until he sheds then try wish me luck.:)

I didn't read through all the responses, but I just want to add that if you aren't already, your snakes should be housed separately and be sure to get a thermostat or at least a dimmer switch for your heat mat.

Lights won't help since ball pythons are nocturnal. They shouldn't be out during the day or in the light so there is no health benefit to having a light. Generally eating issues are from the snake not feeling secure. A snug hide, a smaller tank/tub so they don't have a bunch of open space (they don't need gigantic tanks), and proper temps are a few of the most important things. I like to crumple up newspaper and put it in the tubs of new snakes/babies until they are eating well.

I am too new at herping to make suggestions, but when I was having trouble the advice I recieved here made all the difference. I have my bp in a 40L and she's a baby. I was using a heat lamp and a UTH without a thermastat. Not only was I having feeding issues, but I couldn't seem to get the temp/humidity right.

Here is what I did based on the advice recieved.

1. Purchased a thermostat and a thermometer with probe.

2. Insulated 3 sides and the top.

3. Created more places for Baloo to hide with plants and wood.

4. Stopped using red light except for short periods of observation at night.

Now she eats well and seems a lot more secure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BrianluvsHisBall

I have a 30 gallon tank two hides repti bark bedding humidity 50 to 70 tempature 80 through 90 all times .Bought the snake from a pet shop 3 weeks ago he said it was eating every sunday at 4 or 5 p.m.So i tried the first weak nothing second week nothing third try nothing.Ceasar is a 3 month old normal tried forzen thawed and live nothing.:mad:

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Your temps are too high. Ambient temp should be 80 degrees or less. I like to run mine at 77 to 79 degrees. Infrareds work well for me. I use 50 watts in each cage. A hot spot of 85 to 90 degrees is necessary for proper digestion in the winter. I keep my humidity a little higher, but yours sounds fine. Best of luck to you!

I have been told they don't need the uv lights. None of ours have them, and they eat great.