worried about ball python temp. and safety =/

Hey guys, I'm new here so bear with me. Im including a link a pic of my ball python setup and that is what ill be referring to during this post. I am more than worried about the temperatures for my ball python's tank and want her to be 100% comfortable and cannot seem to get them just how I want them to. I have heard you are supposed to have an ambient temp of around 85 degrees with a hotter side of around 90 and a cooler side with low 80's. So if you are looking at the picture, she is in her log to the left, there is a 10-20 gallon uth right where she is (it is a 20 gallon long tank). Right above the log the temp is measuring at around 83 degrees. In the middle there that black thermometer is reading 82 degrees and over to the far left reads around 80-79 degrees. I'm wondering if I should adjust any of these in any way? im also wondering if it will be too hot in her log with the UTH heater? will she move if she gets too hot or will she not know she is burning? I think humidity is good reading at 55% for pretty much the whole tank. Sorry if I counfused anyone I just want to make sure I'm not making her too hot. Here is the link please respond http://s1239.photobucket.com/albums/...onsetup001.jpg

not sure why the link didn't work. here it is again http://s1239.photobucket.com/albums/...onsetup001.jpg

Is the uth being regulated by a thermostat?

With a uth you need a probed thermometer to read the temperature directly on the glass to make sure it's not over 95 degrees.
Those dials might be "ok" for ambient temperatures but not for reading the hot spot temp.

No they don't always move off of the hot spot if it's too hot, most will but some will not, this is why it's important to know the temperature of hottest spot the snake can touch, directly on the bottom of the tank over the uth.

first off I would be weary of those analogue thermometers and hydrometers they tend to be inaccurate. second how are you regulating the UTH? They can get too hot unless they are regulated by a dimmer or thermostat. The temperatures that you need to be worried about when it comes to the UTH is the surface temperature of the tank/substrate and not the ambient. I keep my ambients at 78 but have a hot side that sits between 88 and 92 and a cool side that is between 78 and 82. thats all you really need for your ball python to be happy

The pic looks like your using a heat lamp as well which also needs to be regulated by a thermostat. What is the heat lamp resting on? Just be careful because they can get extremely hot and can start a fire. Your ambient temps seem fine though so i'm pretty sure as long as you get a thermostat you'll have a very happy bp.

Just to chime in - I too noticed that the light is resting on something that looks like it could be flamable - I would not use that to put your light on.

thank you all for replying so quick. the light is resting on just someting i made out of bamboo to get it away from the cage. I didnt know how else to elevate it (it gets too hot when its right on top). I have been using it for a couple days now and didn't think it would catch on fire, but definitely don't want to risk it. Nothing I have is regulated by a thermostat, but I'm getting the feeling the UTH is too hot, she has half her body out of the log instead of being curled up in there. Three questions -1. Where do i get a probe thermometer? preferably at a store and not too expensive. 2. Where do I get thermostats that work well? and 3. how does the thermostat work with the UTH? like how do you connect it to the UTH? thanks again

You can get an accurite therm/hygro meter at Walmart for like $12.00 bucks. Alot of us here on this site use this brand.

Thermostats can range from $90 to $250 in price - I like the Helix brand for about $145. You just plug the uth into the Helix and then the helix into your outlet. You would place the probe from the Helix onto the UTH/or the glass bottom of your tank so it can read the temps and regulate it.

Also, I know some people use light dimmer switches to regulate - these save you some money but I have no experience with them. A thermostat is one of the most important pieces of equipment you will need so I wouldn't go cheap on them - spend the extra money and get a good reliable one.

Good luck with your setup.

The accurites are the way to go. They have a probe you can place under the hide on the glass with a long cord to place the unit itself in the middle of the tank to measure ambient and humidity. Not to mention it shows all 3 on the display without having to 'cycle' through anything. Can't beat it for $12ish.

Just look close to the 'lighting' aisle @ Walmart if you are having a hard time find them. They are usually around that same area.

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Originally Posted by Dagibson9

2. Where do I get thermostats that work well? and 3. how does the thermostat work with the UTH? like how do you connect it to the UTH? thanks again

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http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR...1529683&sr=1-7

here is a link for a cheap thermostat, I havent used it yet, but many members say its not bad. And for 30 dollars it is a good deal.

alright so you are all very right the uth got too hot it was at around 98 degrees under the hide (i bought a probe thermometer) and i unplugged it immediately. i went and got a zoo-med rheostat from petsmart because i didnt know what else to do for the time being. Will this work if i set it below the low setting? i have seen a lot of comments that even on low it is too hot. ill just keep monitoring it to be sure, until i can get an actual thermostat. Does anyone recommend thermostat brands? possibly below $150? LWest you mentioned the Helix. Does that have a digital display where you can set what temperature you want the uth at?

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Originally Posted by Dagibson9

alright so you are all very right the uth got too hot it was at around 98 degrees under the hide (i bought a probe thermometer) and i unplugged it immediately. i went and got a zoo-med rheostat from petsmart because i didnt know what else to do for the time being. Will this work if i set it below the low setting? i have seen a lot of comments that even on low it is too hot. ill just keep monitoring it to be sure, until i can get an actual thermostat. Does anyone recommend thermostat brands? possibly below $150? LWest you mentioned the Helix. Does that have a digital display where you can set what temperature you want the uth at?

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I would recommend a herpstat. they have a few different modles starting at $99

here is a link: http://www.spyderrobotics.com/store/

These work good and don't break the bank.

http://www.bigappleherp.com/BAH-1000-Thermostat

If you want to save a little money on that unit try going to a pet store around you that sells reptiles. The model linked above is pretty common but made by different companies. Thermostats can get very expensive and with only one snake in a tank i wouldn't suggest spending over $100 on anything proportional.

Now as for use they are all pretty straight forward just plug the lamp and UTH into the thermostat and put the probe where you want the hot spot and your done. Keep an eye on the temps and adjust the thermostat accordingly. Even the best thermostats are off a few degrees here and there.

The hydrofarm thermostat is fine for one snake with a heat mat. I have my corn and my BP on rheostats- just table top lamp dimmers from the hardware store. I have one set lower at 82-87ish, which keeps the BP's cool side and the corns's warm side appropriately controlled and then Atlas's hot side sits at about 88-93ish. I've got more temperature fluctuation than I would like, but everyone eats like it is going out of style and I haven't had any RI scares or any other signs that something was wrong.

i just got the hydrofarm MTPRTC thermostat today and it works like a charm with a +/- 2 degrees off. I know this because my Acurite thermometer probe sits directly on top of the UTH on the glass and it reads the temperature which is +/- 2 degrees from what the thermostat reads. The probe to my thermostat is taped at the bottom of the UTH under the tank. I did not tape the probe itself but the wire.

I test drove my UTH without a thermostat and it my Acurite thermometer read 148+ so its a MUST to get a thermostat. (my bp was not in the tank at the time)

I was in the same situation as you, I bought a Zilla thermostat at Petco for $55 and it was awful with a +/- 10 degrees different. Used it until my hydrofarm arrived in the mail.

Good luck with your setup

Now you guys have me all curious hehe. I'm using a UTH heater and heat lamps , I have a digital temp gauge on the hot side that usually stays at a steady 89-93 degrees. And another on the cool side that hangs out around 75-80 degrees. After reading through this Im defiantly going and buying a thermostat to regulate the UTH temp. Can you do the same thing with heat lamps to regulate there temps as well?

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Originally Posted by Konbrio

Can you do the same thing with heat lamps to regulate there temps as well?

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yes. I use a dimmer for my CHE and thermostats for my 2 UTHs

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Originally Posted by jackiechan

yes. I use a dimmer for my CHE and thermostats for my 2 UTHs

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Sounds good :). What about a thermostat for a heatlamp though, instead of a dimmer?

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Originally Posted by Konbrio

Sounds good :). What about a thermostat for a heatlamp though, instead of a dimmer?

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As long as it isn't a floressent bulb you can plug it into a thermostat and it will regulate it.

If safety is something you really believe in there is one addition that has not been mentioned. A failsafe t-stat. The issue is with a probed t-stat if the probe fails the unit fails or the probe moves (accidents do and have happened) the system can and often will over heat a failsafe prevents this. I personally do not have any heat system for my animals that does not have a fail safe.

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Originally Posted by HerpIsAhobby

Thermostats can get very expensive and with only one snake in a tank i wouldn't suggest spending over $100 on anything proportional.

Even the best thermostats are off a few degrees here and there.

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The number one cause (indirect or direct) of health issues in reptiles is incorrect temps. The primary control for temps is the thermostat if you have the money buy the best you can get. Rheostats work well in places where the ambient room temps do not change or where exact temps are not critical. On/off work well in places where the heat is not directly connected to the enclosure (racks for example) or with great thermal mass (glass) they also do better and tend to produce more stable temps when in places where the ambient room temp is not too cool (around 80º) Proportional units will deal with any and all of these plus low thermal mass (tubs) with direct heat in cool environments they are the most versatile of the lot.

I calibrate instruments professionally. I have 13 herpstats and all of them are less than 0.6ºF from true and all read with in 0.4ºF of each other. The method they use is similar to helix and VE ecozone controllers I would surmise that they too have this level of accuracy.

hydrofarms are ok as a controller the issue is the probes are simply not accurate and MUST not be trusted. I have tested 3 units now (new version improved accuracy) The best of them was 1.6ºF high and the worst over 3ºF. With out getting too detailed the probes design lends its self to over and under shooting as well. The Johnson I have tests 1.7º low on the probe so it too is closer but not great either. I do not have a ranco but as all three use the same system I would expect to see errors maybe not as much a hydrofarm but some.

I am not going to start on accurites and other cheap digital thermometers but read the specs and plan for the error it likely has. 90% of the under 50$ units are +/-2ºF for accuracy. Just plan for it to be incorrect. Or buy multiples and check them against each other. Accurites are no better than any other they are all about the same.