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Not eating
Hi my royal has not eaten for a few months now starting to worry me. She was on med rats and then she started to refuse them so I went down in size and then tried a small mouse she eate that and now she won't eat ??.. My viv temp is at 90s and 12 on 12 off day light.:confused:
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Re: Not eating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Birdy1983
Hi my royal has not eaten for a few months now starting to worry me. She was on med rats and then she started to refuse them so I went down in size and then tried a small mouse she eate that and now she won't eat ??.. My viv temp is at 90s and 12 on 12 off day light.:confused:
Could have read this totally wrong but are you using a day bulb? Because if so they don't need it and it could be stressing her. You should use a blacklight or infra red bulb.
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Re: Not eating
Quote:
Originally Posted by evan385
Could have read this totally wrong but are you using a day bulb? Because if so they don't need it and it could be stressing her. You should use a blacklight or infra red bulb.
Ok I'll try one ov the two thanks.Iv tried with the light off just with normal day light ??
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The first question is how old is she?
It is breeding season typically just starting but the wierd weather lately may be causing a early start.
What is the ambient temps?
Not surface but air temps if they are too cool often snakes will not be able to digest and therefore will not feed. Typically they should be between 78-85ºF there is some debate about the range I use 80-83.
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The only light needed is natural light or a light if you choose to watch.
Its not unusual this time of the year for a bp to go off feed. My adult has been off for almost 50 days now and has lost minimal weight.
Keep an eye of the weight and worry when there is a significant loss.
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Re: Not eating
Quote:
Originally Posted by rperry03
The only light needed is natural light or a light if you choose to watch.
Its not unusual this time of the year for a bp to go off feed. My adult has been off for almost 50 days now and has lost minimal weight.
Keep an eye of the weight and worry when there is a significant loss.
Think you meant to say black light.
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Re: Not eating
be careful about giving snakes that are conveniently fed rats a mouse. you don't want bigger snakes developing a preference for mice
it's likely about breeding season, but IMO the best thing you can do is double and triple check your temps and humidity.
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Re: Not eating
Quote:
Originally Posted by evan385
Think you meant to say black light.
??
do you mean IR bulbs?
Snakes should not be under black lights the higher amounts of UV are not needed. True black light should be avoided completely it is bad for you and the snake.
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Re: Not eating
Quote:
Originally Posted by kitedemon
??
do you mean IR bulbs?
Snakes should not be under black lights the higher amounts of UV are not needed. True black light should be avoided completely it is bad for you and the snake.
I use an IR bulb right now. I used to use a flat black spot reptile bulb that was black that I got from Critter Barn. So not a true black light. They use them for all of their snakes with no problems.
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Re: Not eating
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkYyame
be careful about giving snakes that are conveniently fed rats a mouse. you don't want bigger snakes developing a preference for mice
it's likely about breeding season, but IMO the best thing you can do is double and triple check your temps and humidity.
As far as I know females don't go off feed during the breeding season. If anything they eat more to put on weight for the eggs.
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UVa is not needed, there is no reason for the use with snakes.I think they are using it as it is cheap and easy they do not need to turn it off and on.
Regular light (full spectrum or not) is not usually a problem as long as correct husbandry is followed, security (hides and cover) and temps ect.
There are new studies being done about snakes and lighting but it is far from finished and far from conclusive. There is certainly animals kept healthily for long long time under 12/12 lighting. There are some older animals kept under low lighting both situations have long histories of healthy animals the long term effects are still uncertain to my knowledge animals in low light have a shorter history so it is still debatable but unless the new study come up with something new it doesn't matter either way.
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Females often (not always) go off food after follicular development is complete. At the beginning of ovulation cycle. The timing in africa is typically in Nov for this to happen. It is that time in captivity it is more irregular but many breeders suggest using the african schedule.
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Re: Not eating
Quote:
Originally Posted by kitedemon
UVa is not needed, there is no reason for the use with snakes.I think they are using it as it is cheap and easy they do not need to turn it off and on.
Regular light (full spectrum or not) is not usually a problem as long as correct husbandry is followed, security (hides and cover) and temps ect.
There are new studies being done about snakes and lighting but it is far from finished and far from conclusive. There is certainly animals kept healthily for long long time under 12/12 lighting. There are some older animals kept under low lighting both situations have long histories of healthy animals the long term effects are still uncertain to my knowledge animals in low light have a shorter history so it is still debatable but unless the new study come up with something new it doesn't matter either way.
There are some conclusive studies that UV is beneficial in certain species (I beleive the study I read was rough green snakes) but the species are animals that actually expose themselves to the sun quite often in the wild. Ball pythons do not since they primarily stay underground.
Ball pythons do not = all snakes. So I agree with your post if you replaced "snakes" with "ball pythons".
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Blackcrystal I have read that study and one with pine snakes (I think it was a year ago...) but in no case (I am aware of) strictly long wave UVa light was used in the study. My comments were directed to the use of long wave 'black light' bulbs. There are some reptiles that need UV but they require A and B not just A. My comments were prompted by was about using those black light bulbs used in some pet stores and serving little to no purpose. The use of short wave UVB and C bulbs is dangerous to both human and snakes as it is too much UV with too little visual and is well know to cause retina damage.
I would love to read any information you may have on the subject as if it gets refined it could have a profound impact on the hobby.
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Get a digital food scale and start tracking her weight. If she doesn't lose significant weight, she should be fine. I've heard of bp's going on fast for as much as 9 months and being completely fine after. As long as the husbandry is right, ball pythons arent stupid and wont starve themselves to death if food is offered regularly. Just keep offering and eventually she will take it.
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