Found a "new" way to keep humidity.

I was all out of tin foil and kept forgetting to get some to put on the top of the screen so I was just laying a hand towel on it to cover about 60% of the top. I was having to mist 3 times a day to keep the humidity up because its gotten cold here and the air is dry. A random thought came to me and I thought to mist the towel, so I tried it at night. I forgot to check on it in the morning so after work I went and checked on it and it was still at 51% humidity. It normally drops to 43% during the day. Anyone else ever tried this?

I have used that technique before and it worked for me, but I suggest washing or changing the towel out every couple of days so that it doesn't start smelling moldy...

I've never tried it but I've seen putting damp towels on top of screen tops as a suggestion. Good to know it works! :)

Yes, I have several old towels that I will switch out. Its also nice that you don't have to take the lid off and on 3 times a day :D

You can also get some saran (plastic) wrap and tape it to the lid.

I do this with all my snakes when they go into shed, and in dry times (mid summer/winter) when the air in my place is very dry. I also will wet the towel down with I very light dilution of F10 to keep any funk from growing in the towel.

Another fix is to glue (aquarium silicone) a piece of vented lexan or plexi to the screen.

You should never have to mist anything. All you need for proper humidity is a proper setup.

1.) Use an under tank heater, not a light or ceramic heater.
2.) Cover most of the tank with foil, plexiglass, whatever.
3.) use a big enough water bowl.
4.) that is it.

Under tank heaters don't warm up the ambient temps though. If I didnt keep a CHE on my tank, it would drop to 68-70 degrees.

I use towels as well since there is so little humidity in Denver. It works well :) never had a shedding problem since using them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike Cavanaugh

You should never have to mist anything. All you need for proper humidity is a proper setup.

1.) Use an under tank heater, not a light or ceramic heater.
2.) Cover most of the tank with foil, plexiglass, whatever.
3.) use a big enough water bowl.
4.) that is it.

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I agree to a point you ideally should not have to mist every day. The balance is tricky but the problem I have with Mike's comment is the reduced air flow. Tanks do not vent well straight from the beginning. There will be two large dead air spots in a typical tank both corners have little air flow. Constricting this down can generate all kinds of other issues. This also should not be needed, using the snakes exhaled breath to increase humidity is asking for trouble.

I still use a screen top tank and water bowl, the placement of the bowl and careful substrate choice and depth and position is all I need no top mod is needed. My tank holds 60% for 6-10 days with no problems in a room that is around the 30% mark. Balance.

I have seen a lot of people mentioning that they do this, but as stated, watch out for moldy/stinky towels.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pigfat

Under tank heaters don't warm up the ambient temps though. If I didnt keep a CHE on my tank, it would drop to 68-70 degrees.

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What is your room temperature at? A normal room temperature (70 to 80 degrees) only requires a properly sized under tank heater.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

the problem I have with Mike's comment is the reduced air flow. Tanks do not vent well straight from the beginning. There will be two large dead air spots in a typical tank both corners have little air flow. Constricting this down can generate all kinds of other issues. This also should not be needed, using the snakes exhaled breath to increase humidity is asking for trouble.

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Reduced air flow isn't a problem. I have been doing this for years. Many others have been doing it for decades... all without issue. leave 2 inches open on either side and you will be fine.

Dr. J Rossi and Dr. R Klingenberg disagree, they have more experience and credentials than I do.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ons-The-Basics

I am currently treating a rescue for RI due to a tank with poor ventilation. She was kept carefully with good temps the vet suspects over abundant bacteria growth due to a warm moist stagnate conditions. Personally with the abundant evidence to the contrary I'd not advise low ventilation as a means to keep humidity up.

Ambient air temps need to be at the lowest 75º and 79-84 is preferable how you get there is not critical getting there is.

Im not looking forward to having this problem when I get out of the military and move back to California. I am stationed near D.C. right now in Maryland and I don't have to worry about the humidity right now cause its always perfect. Well anyways, looking forward to the challenge. :)

The room temp is about 68ish. Like I said its getting colder here. I HAVE to have some heat source which is why I use the CHE on the hot side. It gets it to about 90 and the cool side is 77. I use loose eco earth substrate(cocoanut). And on top of that, the air is unusually dry here. We went about 7 months with no rain and a summer full of 100+ degree weather. BUT its raining today!!! :bow:

here isn't really right and wrong ways to do things just some general ideas and a few guidelines and then it is creative solutions. i prefer side turned tanks it generates more options. They usually heat better and usually holds humidity better. The air flow pattern is also more efficient even with less open area. Secondary heat sources are a bit more tricky but in my experience a fluorescent light inside the back will provide enough heat to lift the ambient temps, insulating the out side will hold that heat through the night. If you have a t-stat with a night drop you can use that to raise the night temps a touch to compensate for the turned off light.

It might be worth thinking on.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...arium-Solution