ball python help

my ball python has been sticking around the water bowl on the cool side of the tank should i be worried?

If your temps are correct and you haven't seen anything else suspicious. Not really. But I would also double check the hotside to make sure everything is correct. Is your heat regulated? Have you have him for a little while or is this a new acquisition? Has there been any other odd behavior or is he just hanging out on the cool side? Do you have 2 identical hides?
I don't think there's too much to worry about. They go back and forth depending on what temp they like. Give things a good look over and I'm sure he'll be fine.


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Originally Posted by Homegrownscales

If your temps are correct and you haven't seen anything else suspicious. Not really. But I would also double check the hotside to make sure everything is correct. Is your heat regulated? Have you have him for a little while or is this a new acquisition? Has there been any other odd behavior or is he just hanging out on the cool side? Do you have 2 identical hides?
I don't think there's too much to worry about. They go back and forth depending on what temp they like. Give things a good look over and I'm sure he'll be fine.


Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

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currently i don't have a hide on the cool side and i hade it for 3 weeks now, going Sunday to see if its a she or he. but besides that the only problem i had was shedding but nothing big

A second hide is recommended! The snake is likely trying to regulate. What exactly are your temps?

(at the substrate over the heating unit and away from the heating unit, again at the substrate level, and the last one what is the ambient air temp in the enclosure from the roughly the dead centre of the enclosure.)

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

A second hide is recommended! The snake is likely trying to regulate. What exactly are your temps?

(at the substrate over the heating unit and away from the heating unit, again at the substrate level, and the last one what is the ambient air temp in the enclosure from the roughly the dead centre of the enclosure.)

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Idk the exact temp yet but I have a under the tank heater and in the room the snake is it's around 80 all day and 75 at night

Ok than that is cause for concern. Those uths get HOT. If that uth isn't hooked up to a thermostat or at least a dimmer or rheostat. It is 190% way too hot. They are the prime culprits for thermal burns, overheats, and deaths. Understand that Any heat source should 100% always be regulated.
I've seen uths melt plastic. Not good. Id unplug it ASAP get at least a dimmer preferably a tstat. I would also get a digital thermometer. Indoor outdoor type and get it in the tank.

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the uth isnt over heating i can put my hand on the glass without the substrate in place

http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products...ave_desert.php this is the heat source

I would recommend going and picking up a nice digital thermometer, they aren't expensive. Ball pythons are incredibly easy to care for if you give the proper husbandry. Temperature is by far one of the most important things to be precise about. Take the time and effort to create a perfect habitat and you have zero issues. Good luck.

its cool...your snake will know when to regulate its body heat...

thanks guys, and yea i think its just cuz it was 103 today and the power was out, so he might just be trying to cool down

I'm sure the uth isn't over heating. It's just on unregulated. It may not feel hot to you. But our body temp is 98.f so anything around that is going to feel cool. I'm just a prevent a problem rather than fix a problem. Taking in rescues I've seen first hand what happens when an unregulated heat pad frys a snake. They at times do not know to move. Thats how thermal burns happen. They don't have the same nerve receptors like we so so they don't say oh ouch this is hot. Let me move.
Just saying, for me having an unregd heat source of any kind would be a cause for concern. The fact that it's been unbearably hot around my house anyways my tstats haven't even been turning on really. I couldn't imagine how hot it would be if the heat was on. Look at it this way. When a decent thermostat cost 30$, or a dimmer costs 10$ maybe? Why take the chance of an overheat or burn? Permanent damage occurs and costly vet bills. I'd rather be safe than sorry. By the way I'm certainly not trying to harp on you in anyway shape or form. I hope you don't take this like that.


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Even if we assume (very dangerous thing to do with LIVING animals) that the heater is not getting hot enough to cause serious burns. Snakes in general can only digest between a window of temperatures. Royals/Ball have a window that closes in the mid 90s when the temperature is over that they cannot digest food. The problem is the cool end may also not be warm enough to properly digest either typically a snake that cannot find good digestion temps will not eat, to the point of starving to death. A stat will save a lot of problems in the long run remember this is a long lived pet unlike cats and dogs taking care of it now will reward in the future.

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

Even if we assume (very dangerous thing to do with LIVING animals) that the heater is not getting hot enough to cause serious burns. Snakes in general can only digest between a window of temperatures. Royals/Ball have a window that closes in the mid 90s when the temperature is over that they cannot digest food. The problem is the cool end may also not be warm enough to properly digest either typically a snake that cannot find good digestion temps will not eat, to the point of starving to death. A stat will save a lot of problems in the long run remember this is a long lived pet unlike cats and dogs taking care of it now will reward in the future.

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im going today to purchase a regulate, and i researched the uth i have and it said the the temp on it is set up so it never goes over 85

Number 1 if that is true you have a problem and need to get a new uth. If it never goes above 85.f then you're not providing the Correct hotside temps and you're going to have a snake that 1 will nor eat or 2 cannot digest what it does eat. Or it will become Ill from incorrect temperatures.

Number 2 If that happens to be not true without a dimmer (rheostat) or a thermostat you still have a problem.

So personally I would make sure that you have a uth that is compatible with the animals basic needs. You need a uth that goes above 85.f. If it truly doesn't then I would get a different one.
If it does I highly suggest getting a plug in dimmer for now. You'll have to fiddle with it a bit but I would also order a Hydrofarm. Theyre an affordable, Yet reliable thermostat that is easy to use, and saves you a hell of alot of trouble in the end. Good luck

Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Homegrownscales

Number 1 if that is true you have a problem and need to get a new uth. If it never goes above 85.f then you're not providing the Correct hotside temps and you're going to have a snake that 1 will nor eat or 2 cannot digest what it does eat. Or it will become Ill from incorrect temperatures.

Number 2 If that happens to be not true without a dimmer (rheostat) or a thermostat you still have a problem.

So personally I would make sure that you have a uth that is compatible with the animals basic needs. You need a uth that goes above 85.f. If it truly doesn't then I would get a different one.
If it does I highly suggest getting a plug in dimmer for now. You'll have to fiddle with it a bit but I would also order a Hydrofarm. Theyre an affordable, Yet reliable thermostat that is easy to use, and saves you a hell of alot of trouble in the end. Good luck

Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

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i plugged in a dimmer for now and thanks again for all your help