!!!Need help and advice!!!

Last month, I got a ball python after days of trying to convince my parents. It's been about 3 and a half weeks since I got it (it's just a baby) and the thing is one of the worse pets I've ever had. Ever. I just will not eat! I've literally tried everything possible, and it won't eat. Today I'm going to the petstore to to either get an in-store credit or exchange the thing. But now, I'm totally turned off from any ball pythons, I'm so frusturated and I invested a lot of time and money in this snake and I even had plans for breeding them but now I don't even want to look at one. There's finicky eaters, there's really picky eaters. This one happens to be retarded. The pet store owner claims all of them ate, but that just sounds like total crap to me (the thing hasn't even took a crap!) and I can see it getting skinnier and skinnier. I'm really stressed out and don't no what to do, I mean sickness is the only option left, and a vet is definitley NOT and option. Please help I really don't know what to do!

Why don't you describe your setup in detail...pictures would help as well.

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Originally Posted by LGray23

Why don't you describe your setup in detail...pictures would help as well.

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Temp on hot side: 87 (digital them.)
Cool side: 80 (analog reads 90 but you subtract 10 degrees)
Two hides
Fresh water
Heat lamp off unless needed
Have not handled it

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6489240...in/photostream

Don't give up yet! What and how did you try feeding? Did you read the caresheets and was everything else correct?

Okay there are quite a few things wrong...it doesn't seem like you've done everything. Before you give up try these.
A real digital thermometer. Not 100% accurate as it's been pointed out before, but accurate enough especially for the money. Can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, and Walmart as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Chaney-Instrum...0145041&sr=8-1

You should get two identical hides. Those log hides don't make them feel secure...probably one of many reasons your snake is stressed. I use these:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes

I would go to Home Depot and get black Con-tact paper. It comes in a roll for $6. Cover the sides and back of the tank.

Try those, and then leave him/her alone completely for a week. Then let us know how feeding went.

Hi,

Your hides are way to big to make it fel secure.

Try using those drip trays you get for under plant pots - just cut a hole from the rim to the base in one part of it.

Cover the outside of the back and both sides of the tank to help make the snake feel more secure - aquarium back ground looks nice but contact paper will work too.

Add some plastic foliage if you can to clutter up the tank a little.

The temp insde the hot end hide should be 92f measured by your digital.

The temp inside your cool end hide should be 80 measured by the digital - I don't understand what you mean about the analogue but you want to get these temps right so use the digital.


dr del

Sheesh!,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LGray23

Okay there are quite a few things wrong...it doesn't seem like you've done everything. Before you give up try these.
A real digital thermometer. Not 100% accurate as it's been pointed out before, but accurate enough especially for the money. Can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, and Walmart as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Chaney-Instrum...0145041&sr=8-1

You should get two identical hides. Those log hides don't make them feel secure...probably one of many reasons your snake is stressed. I use these:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes

I would go to Home Depot and get black Con-tact paper. It comes in a roll for $6. Cover the sides and back of the tank.

Try those, and then leave him/her alone completely for a week. Then let us know how feeding went.

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You type faaaaaast. :D


dr del

I agree the snake doesn't feel secure so that's why it's probably not eating. Leave it alone for a week; don't hold it, move things around, etc. I'd just look inside a few times a day, mist if you need too and replenish water. :welcome: :salute:

Remember it's in a new environment so it needs time to settle in. Don't give up!!! :please:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LGray23

Okay there are quite a few things wrong...it doesn't seem like you've done everything. Before you give up try these.
A real digital thermometer. Not 100% accurate as it's been pointed out before, but accurate enough especially for the money. Can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, and Walmart as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Chaney-Instrum...0145041&sr=8-1

You should get two identical hides. Those log hides don't make them feel secure...probably one of many reasons your snake is stressed. I use these:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes

I would go to Home Depot and get black Con-tact paper. It comes in a roll for $6. Cover the sides and back of the tank.

Try those, and then leave him/her alone completely for a week. Then let us know how feeding went.

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Thanks a lot! Just wondering though, my friend bought a baby ball python too, and he has it in a 29 gallon tank, with a huge half log, and a water bowl, and his ate fine. ?????

Hi,

Every snake has its own personality. Some are just a little more nervous than others.


dr del

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dr del

Hi,

Every snake has its own personality. Some are just a little more nervous than others.


dr del

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I do type really fast...it's scary lol.

But +1, I have some snakes that would be fine and eat like champs if I left them in a glass tank with nothing in them, and I have some that NEED to feel secure. You apparently got one that doesn't feel secure, so do whatever you can to help.

It's really early to just give up. With the correct research you should have learned That YES! They can be wonky eaters. It's important that I say that babies especially need more security. Your temps are also about 10.f too cold. That is a reason your snake doesn't want to eat. Each snake has their own personality likes and dislikes. Some are easier than others. The first thing that gives you one strike is that this little baby came from a Petstore. Petstores are Notorious for bad husbandry and highly stressed animals. That right there will mean that you will have more of an issue acclimating that baby. As others have said Give him time. I also think you are stressing him out even more by trying all these different things to make him eat. I promise he's not going to starve to death. Give a minimum of 5 days inbetween refusals, no handling, just bare maintenance.
Giving the snake back to the Petstore and getting a different one is also not going to help your situation. The process will start all over again. Even though I don't think you need a vet at this point in time. Vets are a necessary evil with pets. Theyre something that you should plan for at all times. If a vet really isn't an option and illness was really the only option, then perhaps a pet wasn't a good idea. Dont take that the worng way though. But in any case I don't think your snake is sick. I think the poor baby is stressed beyond a doubt. And your husbandry Is incorrect. Fix these things wait a week or two and offer a meal. You also should invest is a scale. They are a meager 10$ and will save you a hell of alot of worry and issues with fasts in the future. Scale and a notebook. Write down all weights, feeds, sheds, defecation. Then when you go through a fast in the future you can look at that complete husbandry and know what is normal and not. And believe me you WILL go through another fast in the future.

Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

How often are you offering food? If you try to offer too often it will just stress it out more.

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Originally Posted by Homegrownscales

It's really early to just give up. With the correct research you should have learned That YES! They can be wonky eaters. It's important that I say that babies especially need more security. Your temps are also about 10.f too cold. That is a reason your snake doesn't want to eat. Each snake has their own personality likes and dislikes. Some are easier than others. The first thing that gives you one strike is that this little baby came from a Petstore. Petstores are Notorious for bad husbandry and highly stressed animals. That right there will mean that you will have more of an issue acclimating that baby. As others have said Give him time. I also think you are stressing him out even more by trying all these different things to make him eat. I promise he's not going to starve to death. Give a minimum of 5 days inbetween refusals, no handling, just bare maintenance.
Giving the snake back to the Petstore and getting a different one is also not going to help your situation. The process will start all over again. Even though I don't think you need a vet at this point in time. Vets are a necessary evil with pets. Theyre something that you should plan for at all times. If a vet really isn't an option and illness was really the only option, then perhaps a pet wasn't a good idea. Dont take that the worng way though. But in any case I don't think your snake is sick. I think the poor baby is stressed beyond a doubt. And your husbandry Is incorrect. Fix these things wait a week or two and offer a meal. You also should invest is a scale. They are a meager 10$ and will save you a hell of alot of worry and issues with fasts in the future. Scale and a notebook. Write down all weights, feeds, sheds, defecation. Then when you go through a fast in the future you can look at that complete husbandry and know what is normal and not. And believe me you WILL go through another fast in the future.

Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

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Thanks! Just letting you know I got it from a reptile specialty shop (not a crappy one like petsmart or petco where baby bps are 80 dollars). And I asked the owners mother (she specializes in bps and other pythons) and says that 87 degrees is perfect...?

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Originally Posted by gold217

Thanks! Just letting you know I got it from a reptile specialty shop (not a crappy one like petsmart or petco where baby bps are 80 dollars). And I asked the owners mother (she specializes in bps and other pythons) and says that 87 degrees is perfect...?

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It's not, it's not even acceptable for the low end. Should be between 88-92, 88 being low and 92 being high.
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

How many times have you held your snakes since you've had it?

87 is not an acceptable temperature for the hot spot. I keep all of mine at about 92 on the hot spot. The cool side varies by the ambient temperature in the room but normally is in the low to mid 80s.

Baby ball pythons are notorious for needing to feel secure. I hatched out two females a month ago and they have still not had their first meal. Get a scale and watch your snake's weight.

BPs can be very picky, I have a 940gram female pin that I have to keep in a 2X2 boaphile because if I try her in a bigger one she will not eat. She will also ONLY eat Live ASFs (african soft furs). With my babies I don't usually offer them ASFs until the last resort but if they go to long without eating and I see them loosing weight then I offer them one. ASFs are like BP crack but can be tricky to find. Everyone here has said everything I would say so this was pretty much all I had to add. the hides that LGray23 had recommended are great. I use them in all my cages even with my Boas. Once you feel like your setup, temps, and humidity are right where you want them and it still won't eat then I would offer an ASF. I also agree with Homegrownscales with you needing a scale. It helps alot to know the weight of your snake at times like this where you can tell weather or not he is loosing weight. It costs a little money to get everything you need but after all WHAT PET DOESN'T lol. Don't give up. he won't starve himself just give him time. Good luck and please keep us posted :gj:

You have been given very good advise already.

I will add, if you are offering food the appropriate every 7 days you have only tried to feed 3 times. That's not nearly long enough for you to think it's as bad as you say. If you are trying to feed more often, all you are doing is stressing the snake and making even less likely to feed. It's a viscous circle.

Take a deep breath, fix the issues with husbandry you have, wait a week and try again and I'll just about guarantee it will eat.

By the way, just because your friend got stupid lucky with his snake and it ate right away, does not mean it will continue to feed well or feed consistently.

I have 19 balls myself. While some are garbage disposals and will eat whatever I feed whenever I offer it, most have an exact routine that must be followed to the "T" or they won't eat. And I have two that only eat if conditions are absolutely perfect. And I mean temperature is perfect, it is the right time of day down to the hour, I do not move their tubs more than 6 inches to feed, the prey is the right type, right size and right color, and I can't watch them or they won't eat.

Derek was telling me he has a female that he must show her the food from 3 feet away, slowly open the tub, gently place the food in as far away from the snake as is possible, gently close the tub and leave the room or she doesn't eat. Some balls are like that. And some are like my biggest female and they will happily eat you if you don't get the food in the tub fast enough.

Just be patient and fix your husbandry, and I bet your baby will eat.

Gale

Don't let the picky eating discourage you. Keep trying. Like everyone says they are all different. I have one the first time he ate for me I had to turn off all of the lights and feed him by flashlight. He wouldn't eat any other way. A month later he wouldn't even eat in the dark :rolleye2: I finally tried a live mouse. He won't eat anything else but live now. I don't have to turn out the lights but he wants his hide so he can drag the mouse inside to eat. Then here recently one of my boys that never misses a meal decides his mice aren't good anymore because it must have smelt like a rat because I thawed them out in the same water :mad: I gave him a live mouse the other day and bam. Get your husbandry straight and try again.

Gale- that's funny. I have a few the exact same way.
Op- like youre seeing. All are different. Everyone even snakes like something different. Give him a set schedule and stick to it. He will eat for you soon and this will all be behind you.


Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

gold, i am not an expert with bps and am new to the site but i see you are from michigan and i am betting you got your bp from the store in livonia. in my search of my second ball we made the trip to that place. lets just say i walked in and left within 5 minutes and i had to drive an hour plus. i talked to the lady and looked at the pile of a dozen baby balls all being kept in the same tank. the first thing out of her mouth was "they just ate yesterday and are on sale today" then i said ok well i am just looking right now and left. i would not think of that place as much better than petsmart. they did have a nice arachnid selection though. i suggest if you want to check out a pet store in michigan go check out pruess pets in lansing. good place with employees who know a little bit about and actually care for what they are selling.

good luck, dave

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Originally Posted by llovelace

How many times have you held your snakes since you've had it?

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2 times

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Homegrownscales

It's really early to just give up. With the correct research you should have learned That YES! They can be wonky eaters. It's important that I say that babies especially need more security. Your temps are also about 10.f too cold. That is a reason your snake doesn't want to eat. Each snake has their own personality likes and dislikes. Some are easier than others. The first thing that gives you one strike is that this little baby came from a Petstore. Petstores are Notorious for bad husbandry and highly stressed animals. That right there will mean that you will have more of an issue acclimating that baby. As others have said Give him time. I also think you are stressing him out even more by trying all these different things to make him eat. I promise he's not going to starve to death. Give a minimum of 5 days inbetween refusals, no handling, just bare maintenance.
Giving the snake back to the Petstore and getting a different one is also not going to help your situation. The process will start all over again. Even though I don't think you need a vet at this point in time. Vets are a necessary evil with pets. Theyre something that you should plan for at all times. If a vet really isn't an option and illness was really the only option, then perhaps a pet wasn't a good idea. Dont take that the worng way though. But in any case I don't think your snake is sick. I think the poor baby is stressed beyond a doubt. And your husbandry Is incorrect. Fix these things wait a week or two and offer a meal. You also should invest is a scale. They are a meager 10$ and will save you a hell of alot of worry and issues with fasts in the future. Scale and a notebook. Write down all weights, feeds, sheds, defecation. Then when you go through a fast in the future you can look at that complete husbandry and know what is normal and not. And believe me you WILL go through another fast in the future.

Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

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Sorry to interupt.. where do you get scales for $10 I can't find one for less than $25

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Originally Posted by dave g

gold, i am not an expert with bps and am new to the site but i see you are from michigan and i am betting you got your bp from the store in livonia. in my search of my second ball we made the trip to that place. lets just say i walked in and left within 5 minutes and i had to drive an hour plus. i talked to the lady and looked at the pile of a dozen baby balls all being kept in the same tank. the first thing out of her mouth was "they just ate yesterday and are on sale today" then i said ok well i am just looking right now and left. i would not think of that place as much better than petsmart. they did have a nice arachnid selection though. i suggest if you want to check out a pet store in michigan go check out pruess pets in lansing. good place with employees who know a little bit about and actually care for what they are selling.

good luck, dave

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Thanks dave! Yeah, I did get my bp from stingers exotics in livonia, the guy said they eat every wednesday....well I mean they've been in buissiness for 9 years you'd think those morons would know what they're doing i mean that old lady told me 86 is good for a hot side which its obviously not -_-...just curious what didn't you like about the store? thanks

-Jared

i just didnt like it much. i dont like seeing baby snakes piled on top of each other. i feel that should not be common practice even if it is more economical for the biz. when you go to pruess's in lansing the snakes all can get hidden away from the human traffic if they want to. there used to be a shop in flint who was mainly a fish place but he had reptiles that he kept in the back corner of the store where they were secure feeling and in very basic setups and kept one per cage. they seemed to always be very heathly and thriving. i would like it if they claim to be a specialty store they would carry some better thermostats and such. the lady i talked might love reptiles and such but just seemed like she really wanted to sell stuff and was sort of pushy. i have been to other places where i just talked to the people and had good conversation even if i was just buying feeders.

later, dave

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Originally Posted by gold217

Temp on hot side: 87 (digital them.)
Cool side: 80 (analog reads 90 but you subtract 10 degrees)

TOOO HOTTT NO NO do NOT take ten degrees off if it says 90 assume it is DO NOT GUESS!!!!! Your snake cannot digest food correctly if too hot or to cold !!!

Two hides
Fresh water
Heat lamp off unless needed
Have not handled it

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6489240...in/photostream

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WHOA!!!!! did I miss something here!

Your temps are 90ºF on an analogue thermometer on the side of the tank That is TOO HOT WAY TOO HOT! what is the temp on the floor under the hides? The digital one for the hot spot is a little off but 87 to 90 is too much! WHY are you subtracting 10ºF from the analogue thermometer they often are incorrect but often not much more that the typical digital ones!

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Originally Posted by CCfive

Sorry to interupt.. where do you get scales for $10 I can't find one for less than $25

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eBay, amazon, I got mine a kitchen scale at my local drug store for 10$. Works like a charm weighs in grams, oz,lbs and goes up to five lbs. But you do have to do some looking around. Try searching kitchen scales.


Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

To the OP....WHAT exactly are you offering your new BP as food? Everyone is correct in inquiring about your husbandry...but your issue may be the food itself.

Are you offering live or f/t? If you are offering live, what size? If you are offeringt f/t how are you offering it? F/t is not an easy meall to feed if you don't know what you're doing....my friend just got a BP and called me and said it wouldn't eat. I asked what she did to prepare to meal and she said "I thawed it out on the counter and then left it in the tank".....:colbert:....so I told her she had to heat it in HOT water, or with a blow dryer, get the temp upto 90-100 degrees....get a set of big tongs, and dangle the mouse, and make it look alive....her snake took it in 2 seconds.

Let us know what exactly you are offering as food and how you are offering it!

You can try feeding at night. If you're feeding f/t try to make sure the prey is warm by letting it sit in a container of warm water for a bit. For me, the first few feedings with my BP she wouldn't strike at the prey I just left it in the enclosure and she eventually ate it. Covering the enclosure with a blanket or towel may help to so its quiet and dark making your bp feel more secure. Good luck!!

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Originally Posted by gold217

(...) a vet is definitley NOT and option. (...)

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As others have pointed out, there were some issues with your setup, but this is the part that got to me. I'm not trying to be offensive or anything, things don't come across the same through text so please don't take it that way, but if you were so intent on getting a ball python before, then why is it that now that you finally have one you aren't willing to take it to a vet? What if one day it develops a problem, would you be as unwilling to take it to the vet then? Vet visits are something you need to factor in whenever you get any kind of pet, including ball pythons.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alexandra V

As others have pointed out, there were some issues with your setup, but this is the part that got to me. I'm not trying to be offensive or anything, things don't come across the same through text so please don't take it that way, but if you were so intent on getting a ball python before, then why is it that now that you finally have one you aren't willing to take it to a vet? What if one day it develops a problem, would you be as unwilling to take it to the vet then? Vet visits are something you need to factor in whenever you get any kind of pet, including ball pythons.

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I agree 100%

as others have mentioned your doing alot of things wrong and its not the bps fault.get your husbandry down.i believe everything has been mentioned.get the right temps,smaller hides,ditch the heat lamp for a uth and thermostat,get digi therms,leave your bp alone except for maintenance,feed appropriately sized prey,block out the back and sides,dont hover over the bp when you try feeding.once you get everything down and stable your bp will grow,thrive,youll be able to handle it,gain trust within eachother and have a long term companion.they can live a loong time and i hope you know that and know with every pet you get vet visits are inevitable.i dont understand what you mean by a vet visit isnt an option.
if you cant commit take it back and get yourself a chihuahua.:gj:

wait chihuahuas need vets too.!
inverts dont need vets if you just dont like dealing with em or spending the money.
wait,is there invert vets?!

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Originally Posted by gold217

Last month, I got a ball python after days of trying to convince my parents. It's been about 3 and a half weeks since I got it (it's just a baby) and the thing is one of the worse pets I've ever had. Ever. I just will not eat! I've literally tried everything possible, and it won't eat. Today I'm going to the petstore to to either get an in-store credit or exchange the thing. But now, I'm totally turned off from any ball pythons, I'm so frusturated and I invested a lot of time and money in this snake and I even had plans for breeding them but now I don't even want to look at one. There's finicky eaters, there's really picky eaters. This one happens to be retarded. The pet store owner claims all of them ate, but that just sounds like total crap to me (the thing hasn't even took a crap!) and I can see it getting skinnier and skinnier. I'm really stressed out and don't no what to do, I mean sickness is the only option left, and a vet is definitley NOT and option. Please help I really don't know what to do!

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" I invested a lot of time and money in this snake and I even had plans for breeding them but now I don't even want to look at one"

If you think that one BP is alot off time and money, maby your not ready for one right now

I dont know about everybody else, but you sound a little Immature for A BP right now, mabey choose something with less requirments.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gold217

Temp on hot side: 87 (digital them.)
Cool side: 80 (analog reads 90 but you subtract 10 degrees)

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have you adjusted the cool side back down? Or is it still at 90ºF.

analogue thermometers can be as accurate as digital one or read high or low. Assume it is correct until proven otherwise.

Also if it is a stick on dial type up the sides it will be significally HOTTER on the floor of the enclosure!

Over heated snakes will not be able to digest food and simply will not eat or be able to digest anything they have. 87/90 is not a thermal gradient! Adjust your temps :O !!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alexandra V

As others have pointed out, there were some issues with your setup, but this is the part that got to me. I'm not trying to be offensive or anything, things don't come across the same through text so please don't take it that way, but if you were so intent on getting a ball python before, then why is it that now that you finally have one you aren't willing to take it to a vet? What if one day it develops a problem, would you be as unwilling to take it to the vet then? Vet visits are something you need to factor in whenever you get any kind of pet, including ball pythons.

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I don't see the point in taking it to a vet when the whole visit will cost a LOT more than the snake! If this was an expensive snake (piebald, expensive morph, proven breeder, ***over a month old***, etc..) than I would have no problem taking it to the vet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mark and marley

as others have mentioned your doing alot of things wrong and its not the bps fault.get your husbandry down.i believe everything has been mentioned.get the right temps,smaller hides,ditch the heat lamp for a uth and thermostat,get digi therms,leave your bp alone except for maintenance,feed appropriately sized prey,block out the back and sides,dont hover over the bp when you try feeding.once you get everything down and stable your bp will grow,thrive,youll be able to handle it,gain trust within eachother and have a long term companion.they can live a loong time and i hope you know that and know with every pet you get vet visits are inevitable.i dont understand what you mean by a vet visit isnt an option.
if you cant commit take it back and get yourself a chihuahua.:gj:

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The husbandry is perfect and I haven't touched it -_- A vet visit isn't an option, it's just too expensive! The checkup will be more than the snake, and who knows how much the treatment will cost if there is something wrong with it. If this was an expensive morph, over 1 month old, or a proven breeder, then it would be at the vet faster than you could say vet!
And just for the record, I HATE chihuahuas!!! :mad:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PythonOutlaw

" I invested a lot of time and money in this snake and I even had plans for breeding them but now I don't even want to look at one"

If you think that one BP is alot off time and money, maby your not ready for one right now

I dont know about everybody else, but you sound a little Immature for A BP right now, mabey choose something with less requirments.

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You know what?? This snake was not cheap. I don't care what breed it is or what you say. And thanks for your concern but I've done extensive research and I'm pretty sure I'm PLENTY mature enough for a bp! And plus, I had to make the hour round trip to the petstore for live mice every week ($1.59) and about $13 dollars in gas! :mad: So this snake DID take up time and effort. And money. You know NOTHING about my situation beyond this thread, so quit making false assumptions!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

have you adjusted the cool side back down? Or is it still at 90ºF.

analogue thermometers can be as accurate as digital one or read high or low. Assume it is correct until proven otherwise.

Also if it is a stick on dial type up the sides it will be significally HOTTER on the floor of the enclosure!

Over heated snakes will not be able to digest food and simply will not eat or be able to digest anything they have. 87/90 is not a thermal gradient! Adjust your temps :O !!!

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The temps are fine!!!!!!!! Analogues are not as accurate as you think! I tested with a digital and an analogue. I fixed all the husbandry mistakes (not that there were many) so that wasn't the problem!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gold217

The husbandry is perfect and I haven't touched it -_- A vet visit isn't an option, it's just too expensive! The checkup will be more than the snake, and who knows how much the treatment will cost if there is something wrong with it. If this was an expensive morph, over 1 month old, or a proven breeder, then it would be at the vet faster than you could say vet!
And just for the record, I HATE chihuahuas!!! :mad:

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If you can't afford a vet visit, you shouldn't have a pet of any kind. Although I too dislike chihuahua's.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Alexandra V

As others have pointed out, there were some issues with your setup, but this is the part that got to me. I'm not trying to be offensive or anything, things don't come across the same through text so please don't take it that way, but if you were so intent on getting a ball python before, then why is it that now that you finally have one you aren't willing to take it to a vet? What if one day it develops a problem, would you be as unwilling to take it to the vet then? Vet visits are something you need to factor in whenever you get any kind of pet, including ball pythons.

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straight up. you owe it to the animal to provide the care it deserve along with patience. Dont give up after just a short time...

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Originally Posted by hyena

straight up. you owe it to the animal to provide the care it deserve along with patience. Dont give up after just a short time...

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Ok. Don't even involve yourself in this. You don't even know half of the troubles I went through for that snake.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gold217

Ok. Don't even involve yourself in this. You don't even know half of the troubles I went through for that snake.

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So let me get this. Now you want people to stay out of your business because you're having a hard time. Too bad now the snake will suffer. I don't personally care about your situation, if it's that bad, maybe you don't need a pet you can't care for.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gold217

The temps are fine!!!!!!!! Analogues are not as accurate as you think! I tested with a digital and an analogue. I fixed all the husbandry mistakes (not that there were many) so that wasn't the problem!

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I hate to burst your bubble but generally cheap digitals are not very accurate either. An accurate analogue (+/-0.5ºF) is a whole lot cheaper than an accurate digital (+/-0.5ºF). Did you test the analogue against a reliable meter? Do not ASSUME that an analogue is 10 degrees off I have never seen one that far wrong yet, although I own a digital that is.

A snakes are very sensitive to temperature issues. Are you sure that you have a proper gradient? (80ºF cool 90ºF warm with ambient air temps 79-85ºF)

If you can't afford the vet, you can't afford the pet. PERIOD.

It doesn't matter whether it's a dog, a cat, a parakeet, or a ball python. The cost of the animal is COMPLETELY irrelevant when considering the cost of its care.

Yes, saying 'well, if it gets sick and dies I'll just buy a new one, because they're cheap' DOES make you a bad person. It actually makes you a criminal. When you take responsibility for the life of an animal, you're responsible for providing it with veterinary care when it is sick or injured as well.

That's not just morality.

That is the LAW. It is, in fact, NOT legal to fail to provide vet care for a sick pet. In some areas, it is a misdemeanor, and in others, it is a felony.

If you can't afford treatment, then you can have the animal humanely euthanized, but allowing it to die of its illness is animal cruelty. What this means is, if you get caught doing it, you will be prosecuted. Depending on where you are, you may be barred from owning any animals for a period of time. You see, you simply do not have the legal right to neglect an animal to death.

If you really can't afford vet care, then you must give the animal up to a reptile rescue group or other individual who CAN afford vet care. If it dies in your custody, and you knew it was ill and failed to provide care, then you have committed an act of animal cruelty and broke the law.

This is reality.

WingedWolfPsion I wasn't going to get into the morality issue at all. But you as always said what has been needed to be said. I work with a reptile rescue group ... enough said.

Now, hatchling ball pythons:

1) Do not handle, other than for cage cleaning, until the animal eats.
2) Make sure the cage is small. If it's in a 10 gallon tank, try putting it in a 5 quart shoebox bin inside the tank (clamp the sides so they can't be pried up, and use a soldering iron to make air holes). Ball pythons can become stressed in larger spaces.
3) Make sure the hides are just big enough for the animal to squeeze tightly into, and have a single entrance.
4) Make sure the enclosure is in a low-traffic area.
5) Offer food at night, 1 hour after the lights have gone out. Ball pythons are nocturnal.
6) Offer the EXACT same food the animal was eating before you got it, and the exact same size. Leave.
7) Leave the food in for an hour. If it is not eaten, remove it. Do not offer food again for at least 3 days. (Many say 1 week...I say 3 days, because hatchlings cannot go long periods without food, and the extra days rarely matter--the feeding response seems to reset after 3 days in really young animals).
8) If that doesn't work after 2 tries, fill the bin with crumpled newspaper, wait a day, and then try again.
9) If your snake becomes emaciated and begins to weaken, take it to a vet for tube-feeding. Nutritional support may be necessary if an animal is too thin.
10) Just because the store said the animals ate doesn't mean they ate. Whenever possible, buy from a breeder, not a store. Buy a well-established hatchling if you are a first-time owner. (That means an animal that weighs over 150 grams).

My uncles never missed a meal till he moved it to a bigger tank and the temps on the hot side are cooler than proper temps. So dont worry it is probaly stressed and turn up the temps then try to feed again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WingedWolfPsion

If you can't afford the vet, you can't afford the pet. PERIOD.

It doesn't matter whether it's a dog, a cat, a parakeet, or a ball python. The cost of the animal is COMPLETELY irrelevant when considering the cost of its care.

Yes, saying 'well, if it gets sick and dies I'll just buy a new one, because they're cheap' DOES make you a bad person. It actually makes you a criminal. When you take responsibility for the life of an animal, you're responsible for providing it with veterinary care when it is sick or injured as well.

That's not just morality.

That is the LAW. It is, in fact, NOT legal to fail to provide vet care for a sick pet. In some areas, it is a misdemeanor, and in others, it is a felony.

If you can't afford treatment, then you can have the animal humanely euthanized, but allowing it to die of its illness is animal cruelty. What this means is, if you get caught doing it, you will be prosecuted. Depending on where you are, you may be barred from owning any animals for a period of time. You see, you simply do not have the legal right to neglect an animal to death.

If you really can't afford vet care, then you must give the animal up to a reptile rescue group or other individual who CAN afford vet care. If it dies in your custody, and you knew it was ill and failed to provide care, then you have committed an act of animal cruelty and broke the law.

This is reality.

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This: 'well, if it gets sick and dies I'll just buy a new one, because they're cheap' DOES make you a bad person. Is absolutley NOT how I look at the situation. That snake was anything BUT neglected!!!!! I even asked people on THIS website if I should take it to the vet, and they said no, only if there is something wrong. Being a stubborn feeder is not an uncommon issue for bps, so I kept offering it food. I am by no means a bad person, or a criminal (really?). This was NOT cruelty, neglect, or abuse by any means and I hate to break it to you, but I DIDN'T break the law. And how did I allow it to die? It did cross my mind that it could be sick, but I was assured that it was just a stubborn feeder. So get your facts straight, because I tried everything for this snake, and don't need you accusing me of neglect, or being a criminal.