Enough is enough

So. Since my bp refuses to eat any f/t rodent (hoppers and pinkies) today I went out and bought a live hopper. I tried to feed it to my snake today from about 2:30 till probably 3:30. Nothing. So when I got home from a birthday party about an hour ago, I tried to feed it again. After being bitten by the mouse several times, my snake tried to escape her feeding box, and showed no interest. My friend and I bought a bp from the same clutch, same store, and his ate a live hopper even though he excessively handles it and stresses it out. I know that bps are finicky eaters (I've been doing research since the beginning of April) but I never knew I would end up this stressed out and frusturated. I'm actually considering just giving the snake back to the pet store because I'm really wanting nothing to do with this any more, even though I've wanted a snake since last summer. PLEASE HELP!!!! :please:

having the exact same issues, finally got her to eat tonight but for some reason she stopped...I tried assist feeding to no avail, I am so frustrated I dont know what to do!

So sorry you're having these problems! It can be frustrating, I know. Was this 2:30 AM or 2:30 in the afternoon that you tried to get a feeding response?

Do not remove him/her from her eclosure to feed.

Purchase a fuzzy... something too small to bite, leave it in the enclosure overnight after a long day of leaving your snake alone in a QUIET, dim lit room, in its enclosure.

Make sure your temps are correct of course, this probably all sounds like standard procedure.

But my Daisy wouldn't even touch food until i got her eating small fuzzies, after two fuzzies, she happily ate a stunned hopper *thump them once in the head.*

they may be deaf, but loud noises still cause plenty of vibration. darkness makes them feel safer from what ive seen. and also, go in the room as seldom as possible, or cover its sides with paper and tape to hide its view of others.

don't try to feed too often, it will only stress, wait 2 weeks before bothering your snake agian, keep up on the water, and after the 2nd weeks up, drop that fuzzy in there and check on it 24 hours later.

I hope this helps.

I can offer a couple of suggestions to you.

First is don't move your snake to feed it. It isn't necessary and can cause problems with picky feeders.

Second is as hard as it is, wait at least 5 days before you offer again. Do not handle or mess with her in any way for those 5 days.

Thirdly, try in the early evening. Balls are nocturnal by nature, and in the wild they get active after sundown. I get the strongest feeding response from my 17 balls at around 8:00 pm.

Fourth, when you feed her, just open her enclosure, drop in the mouse, close the lid and back off. Sit down at least 4 feet away and don't move. A hopper can't do much in the way of damage to a snake, so only interfere if the mouse is actively attacking the snake.

In my experience these guys know when you are stressing about them not eating, and will deliberately not eat just to stress you even more. :P As hard as it is, keep your cool about it. When you go to feed her, just tell yourself it doesn't matter if she eats or not. Make yourself not care. If you can make yourself relaxed, she'll be more relaxed.

Let me know how it goes. Believe me, I've been through 9 month long feeding strikes, and it's really frustrating and very hard to deal with. Don't give up hope just yet.

Gale

Not removing is a good idea, since the snakey won't have the stress of being pulled from it's home, and then being shown something to eat. Your own stress won't do your bp any good, and no one's in peril here, everything's okay. :) I noticed you offered...3 times in one day? offering again and again in a short period of time can be stressful, I would definitely put a few days between offering, maybe even a week. If your snake was bitten, that's even MORE stress. There are tons and tons of helpful hints around the forum, I recommend you relax and make a new plan. A BP off feed isn't the end of the world, and it's certainly not a good reason to give up!! They're wonderful creatures, and very much worth the effort.


lol- angllady2 posted while I was writing, what she said, haha. ^.^

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Originally Posted by llovelace

Do not remove him/her from her eclosure to feed.

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Originally Posted by angllady2

I can offer a couple of suggestions to you.

First is don't move your snake to feed it. It isn't necessary and can cause problems with picky feeders.

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Well if the OP is using aspen substrate in the enclosure it could be a potential compaction issue feeding inside the enclosure.

I use aspen and feed in a separate enclosure for that very reason. Luckily my snake doesn't mind eating in a different enclosure.

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Originally Posted by Superpop

Well if the OP is using aspen substrate in the enclosure it could be a potential compaction issue feeding inside the enclosure.

I use aspen and feed in a separate enclosure for that very reason. Luckily my snake doesn't mind eating in a different enclosure.

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who runs around africa putting the wild ones in boxes for them too eat?
adam jeffery

I have had to assist my baby male everytime so far. He totally ignores anything I have tried. I don't even have to force feed him. Just touch the rat pinkies had to his mouth, he opens up, I just set the head inside his mouth and set him down. He eats it right away everytime.
I still have to get to eat on his own somehow cause I am not gonna keep doing that. But his weight was down to 48 grams and his backbone showing just looked horrible. He is filling out nicely now but better learn to eat on his own soon :rage:

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Originally Posted by adamjeffery

who runs around africa putting the wild ones in boxes for them too eat?
adam jeffery

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I gotta admit, I laughed :rofl:

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Originally Posted by adamjeffery

who runs around africa putting the wild ones in boxes for them too eat?
adam jeffery

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That's not the point. Who goes around taking them to the vet in the wild? Who tests for parasites it the wild? If you own an animal, it's your responsibility to provide to the best of your ability, the best care possible for said animal. Risk of impaction is minimal: It's still a risk, and if your snake will tolerate being moved to eat, I applaud that. I personally don't move my snakes to eat at all, simply because I don't feel that the benefits outweigh throwing my snakes off food. But I will never chide someone for doing something that could potentially benefit their animal!

Sorry, worked up tonight, lol. I'm not meaning to start an argument or anything, just stating my opinion. :)

This is going to sound funny to you but it works for a lot of us having this problem. Take a brown paper bag and put him in it with the hopper mouse put some food in the bag so the mouse won't bother the snake leave him in it overnight in his tank of course and it should work. I know it sounds way off but this has worked for me in the past.

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Originally Posted by Anya

That's not the point. Who goes around taking them to the vet in the wild? Who tests for parasites it the wild? If you own an animal, it's your responsibility to provide to the best of your ability, the best care possible for said animal. Risk of impaction is minimal: It's still a risk, and if your snake will tolerate being moved to eat, I applaud that. I personally don't move my snakes to eat at all, simply because I don't feel that the benefits outweigh throwing my snakes off food. But I will never chide someone for doing something that could potentially benefit their animal!

Sorry, worked up tonight, lol. I'm not meaning to start an argument or anything, just stating my opinion. :)

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I never move my snakes out..... I use aspen and if i had to move 50+ snakes out of there tub at feeding time i would never be done...

Don't give up yet. Like everyone said, moving and offering multiple times in one day just stresses them out more. My pastel yb is going on a 2 month hunger strike and it really bothered me at first, but I've pretty much given up. She'll eat when she wants to. With yours just wait a while, getting bit probably really stressed him/her out even more. You don't want to make them afraid of food and you really don't need to worry too much until they start looking emaciated, then it might be time to consider assisted feedings or force feeding. If it comes to that, you should find someone who knows what they are doing to help you. Force feeding is super stressful and could cause more harm than good, do not try this by yourself.

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Originally Posted by adamjeffery

who runs around africa putting the wild ones in boxes for them too eat?
adam jeffery

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I do, I'm very concerned about the wild population. :P

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Originally Posted by kinra

don't give up yet. Like everyone said, moving and offering multiple times in one day just stresses them out more. My pastel yb is going on a 2 month hunger strike and it really bothered me at first, but i've pretty much given up. She'll eat when she wants to. With yours just wait a while, getting bit probably really stressed him/her out even more. You don't want to make them afraid of food and you really don't need to worry too much until they start looking emaciated, then it might be time to consider assisted feedings or force feeding. If it comes to that, you should find someone who knows what they are doing to help you. Force feeding is super stressful and could cause more harm than good, do not try this by yourself.



I do, i'm very concerned about the wild population. :p

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lol :o

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Originally Posted by Haydenphoto

I never move my snakes out..... I use aspen and if i had to move 50+ snakes out of there tub at feeding time i would never be done...

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lol, as mentioned, I don't either, and I have only 2. I'm just sayin'...lolol...I don't know what I'm saying. I'm tired! :P Haha, I guess my point is, if you know you're snake won't go off feed, and you want to feed in a separate place, is there any harm? I guess I just wanted a rant, it's been a long day.

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Originally Posted by Anya

lol, as mentioned, I don't either, and I have only 2. I'm just sayin'...lolol...I don't know what I'm saying. I'm tired! :P Haha, I guess my point is, if you know you're snake won't go off feed, and you want to feed in a separate place, is there any harm? I guess I just wanted a rant, it's been a long day.

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Haha :) go to bed lol :)

Digesting a little aspen wont hurt the snake. Like adam said, dont remove the snake. It will make him or her feel very uncomfortable and scared. I just picked up my very first fire ball female form an expo last week and my mistake i made today was removing her hide so that she can see the mouse and i think that was also a no-no too. woopsies now i know better/ :P

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Originally Posted by adamjeffery

who runs around africa putting the wild ones in boxes for them too eat?
adam jeffery

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Are the wild BP's in Africa roaming around on shaved aspen??? Didn't think so!

There is a FAR greater risk for captive BP's to become "compacted"!!

THAT is why I feed in a separate enclosure(and luckily my snake isn't picky about it)

If people want to use shredded newspaper as substrate and feed inside the snake's enclosure I see no problem with it.

All I was stating is that THERE IS a risk if one uses aspen substrate and offers prey inside the snake's enclosure.

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Originally Posted by Superpop

Are the wild BP's in Africa roaming around on shaved aspen??? Didn't think so!

There is a FAR greater risk for captive BP's to become "compacted"!!

THAT is why I feed in a separate enclosure(and luckily my snake isn't picky about it)

If people want to use shredded newspaper as substrate and feed inside the snake's enclosure I see no problem with it.

All I was stating is that THERE IS a risk if one uses aspen substrate and offers prey inside the snake's enclosure.

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For the past 8 years I have never had an issue.. DO NOT REMOVE THEM FROM THE TUBS !

I use sterilite lunch boxes with reptile carpet on the bottom and the exit hole on top for my bp's hides. These don't have any substrate in them and with the hole on top its easy to just drop prey right into their hides.
I had similar problems getting my female established and once I switched to these she felt safe enough to eat, she still won't touch it until I leave the room (feeding prekilled).
I'm just having a hell of a time switching from pk mice to ft small rats.

Some funny posts on this thread for sure,feeding in or out of the enclosure is probably one of the most beat to death topics Ive seen, but honestly im sure the rat/mice bones hold a lot more density than aspen shavings so theres no reason to feed outside their enclosure ESPECIALLY newly acquired bp's as most are stressed enough from the change in environment. Typically a stressed bp will refuse to eat or defensively strike at the prey, I would recommend to stop offering food for a few days to a week and then offer food inside the enclosure. Every bp is different, they have different personalities, some stress very easy and some not.

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Originally Posted by Haydenphoto

For the past 8 years I have never had an issue.. DO NOT REMOVE THEM FROM THE TUBS !

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Just because you have not had an issue means nothing(You didn't even state what kind of substrate that you use)

And if you do use Aspen substrate there is a vast variety of them as some of them are shredded and others are sharp chips and some of them are "dusty" and others are not.

I am just giving counterpoint advice to the OP because the OP didn't state what type of substrate is being used.

You can insist all you want that it's better to feed inside the snake's enclosure(my snake has NO PROBLEM eating outside of her's though) but in the end if you do feed inside the enclosure you better make sure sure you are not running the risk of compaction!(and if people use shredded newspaper that isn't a problem)

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Originally Posted by Maixx

I use sterilite lunch boxes with reptile carpet on the bottom and the exit hole on top for my bp's hides. These don't have any substrate in them and with the hole on top its easy to just drop prey right into their hides.
I had similar problems getting my female established and once I switched to these she felt safe enough to eat, she still won't touch it until I leave the room (feeding prekilled).
I'm just having a hell of a time switching from pk mice to ft small rats.

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OMG!!! That is a damn clever idea!!!!!

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Originally Posted by Superpop

Just because you have not had an issue means nothing(You didn't even state what kind of substrate that you use)

And if you do use Aspen substrate there is a vast variety of them as some of them are shredded and others are sharp chips and some of them are "dusty" and others are not.

I am just giving counterpoint advice to the OP because the OP didn't state what type of substrate is being used.

You can insist all you want that it's better to feed inside the snake's enclosure(my snake has NO PROBLEM eating outside of her's though) but in the end if you do feed inside the enclosure you better make sure sure you are not running the risk of compaction!(and if people use shredded newspaper that isn't a problem)

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Aspen is what i use. Like i said in a few other posts if have 50+ snakes and to think about moving 50 snakes out to feed i would be there forever... You have been lucky. But again how many snakes do you have to feed every 3 days to a week...

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Originally Posted by Haydenphoto

Aspen is what i use. Like i said in a few other posts if have 50+ snakes and to think about moving 50 snakes out to feed i would be there forever... You have been lucky. But again how many snakes do you have to feed every 3 days to a week...

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You're right...I only have one snake.

That does not mean snakes can't become "impacted" from aspen substrate and feeding inside their enclosures.

Yes I AM LUCKY that my snake doesn't have issues with being fed outside of her enclosure.(that is not always the case though)

I don't care if people feed inside/outside enclosure....

I just want newbies to know the risks of compaction and I am the only person who brought that up and I feel it deserved to be brought up.

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Originally Posted by Superpop

OMG!!! That is a damn clever idea!!!!!

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Another advantage of those hides, when they go into shed, take the carpet out, fill 1/2 full damp moss and you have a nice high humidity hide. My bp's shed 1 piece every time.

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Originally Posted by Superpop

You're right...I only have one snake.

That does not mean snakes can't become "impacted" from aspen substrate and feeding inside their enclosures.

Yes I AM LUCKY that my snake doesn't have issues with being fed outside of her enclosure.(that is not always the case though)

I don't care if people feed inside/outside enclosure....

I just want newbies to know the risks of compaction and I am the only person who brought that up and I feel it deserved to be brought up.

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Not trying to get involved in squabble here but just a question. You do realize that rat or mice bones are far more dense than aspen? BTW didnt you post something awhile back about using a UVB light for a ball python?

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Originally Posted by iCandiBallPythons

Not trying to get involved in squabble here but just a question. You do realize that rat or mice bones are far more dense than aspen? BTW didnt you post something awhile back about using a UVB light for a ball python?

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Although i am in agreement with you on feeding in the tank, with substrate is ok. I dont believe the above is correct and Cant be the reason to justify feeding in the enclosure. bone is not dense and for Many reasons and i say Any Wood is denser than bone. Bone has to be strong but flexible to reduce fracture and splinters, its made with a hollow tube with soft narrow and the inside layers made with minerals and calcium deposits that Make a spongey structure. If you looked at both under a microscope im sure you would be suprised at the difference in the sturcture between Wood and bone.

Anyway, slightly of topic there. I just did not Think it was an accurite way to Make your justification. Matt

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Originally Posted by iCandiBallPythons

Not trying to get involved in squabble here but just a question. You do realize that rat or mice bones are far more dense than aspen?

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I'm sure bones are more dense than aspen but does that men ball pythons can digest aspen???

The only reason I brought this up in this thread is because I have read of compaction problems on this very site. I just wanted to make sure it was mentioned in this thread considering like 4 people insisted that the OP feed inside his/her enclosure without knowing what the OP was using as substrate.

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BTW didnt you post something awhile back about using a UVB light for a ball python?

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You mean the very first thread I started here? Yeah I posted that because that is what I was told when I bought my BP and I posted a bunch of links backing up the claim. FYI I don't use UVB bulbs anymore as they eat up her humidity but that doesn't have anything do do with possible compaction!

Damn! All I was trying to do in this thread is warn the OP of possible compaction(which nobody else did) and I get my head bitten off.

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Originally Posted by Maixx

Another advantage of those hides, when they go into shed, take the carpet out, fill 1/2 full damp moss and you have a nice high humidity hide. My bp's shed 1 piece every time.

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Well as far as humidity I have no problem maintaining a normal level and when she is going into a shed it's pretty easy to spritz her tank down 2 times a day.

That being said...I LOVE your way of feeding and I just might get some sterilite lunch boxes so I don't have to feed outside of her enclosure anymore!!!!

I think that is an effing great idea.....and I thank you for that!!!!

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Originally Posted by ms381

Although i am in agreement with you on feeding in the tank, with substrate is ok. I dont believe the above is correct and Cant be the reason to justify feeding in the enclosure. bone is not dense and for Many reasons and i say Any Wood is denser than bone. Bone has to be strong but flexible to reduce fracture and splinters, its made with a hollow tube with soft narrow and the inside layers made with minerals and calcium deposits that Make a spongey structure. If you looked at both under a microscope im sure you would be suprised at the difference in the sturcture between Wood and bone.

Anyway, slightly of topic there. I just did not Think it was an accurite way to Make your justification. Matt

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I simply made a reference between two materials that are many snakes habitats and that if a bp can digest bone, hair and the rest of the contents of a prey item, that digesting a soft type of aspen substrate should not be a problem as Im sure they ingest stuff in the wild. I am quite sure biologically they are two different materials in structure.

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Originally Posted by Superpop

I'm sure bones are more dense than aspen but does that men ball pythons can digest aspen???

The only reason I brought this up in this thread is because I have read of compaction problems on this very site. I just wanted to make sure it was mentioned in this thread considering like 4 people insisted that the OP feed inside his/her enclosure without knowing what the OP was using as substrate.



You mean the very first thread I started here? Yeah I posted that because that is what I was told when I bought my BP and I posted a bunch of links backing up the claim. FYI I don't use UVB bulbs anymore as they eat up her humidity but that doesn't have anything do do with possible compaction!

Damn! All I was trying to do in this thread is warn the OP of possible compaction(which nobody else did) and I get my head bitten off.

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I would never bite your head off or hope I wouldnt intentionally try to offend you in anyway, Im a nice guy:gj: From my own personal experience I had an incident years ago with loose substrate where a very fine piece somehow became wedged between the teeth and ended up with a sore a couple days later that almost looked like an abscessed tooth , it was such a small splinter it took 2 vet visits and to notice so now I dont use loose substrate at all in my racks, It was prob a one in a million chance that happened but it was enough for me to switch to paper towels, just me personally I would worry about something like that happening versus it being ingested

I actually feed in enclosure and in separate tubs. I'm a novice keeper and was told "feed outside the tank" thing, so I did. I've never had any problems with it-my bp is particularly funny about it.

She's very calm until you put her in her feeding tub and it's so funny to watch. She gets so excited she looks like that dog on begging strips commercials..heh. You could have a disco ball going around her and she would still eat. I'm very lucky with her.

But, then I got my first dumeril boa and the feeding problems began. With him it went on for months until I finally decided to follow posts in here and try feeding him in his enclosure.

That was the trick for him-it got him to eat and it's the only way he will eat now but he's so odd with it. I feed f/t for all mine but he seems to play with his. Sometimes it takes him 2 days before he will eat it. I'll see him laying on it, beside it, under it, pushing it around..lol...then ignoring it. :O

I would try putting a f/t in your snakes enclosure and leaving it there. When I switch my dumeril over to aspen I'm going to put a piece of flat slat rock in there and put the f/t on top of it for him to "play" with :rolleyes: At least it will give him a flat surface area to get the f/t hopefully w/o getting substrate also.

Luckily my newer female dumeril eats like a charm. She was fed live and her first feeding after I got her she immediately took a f/t in a feeding tub :banana:

The only reason I still feed any in feeding tubs is because I like to handle them to move them. Sometimes I get busy w/work and don't handle them as much as I should so this gives me a for sure time to handle them. I don't mind feeding in their enclosures though-it is a lot easier.

I only have 4 snakes at the moment so it's not an issue with time in moving them. I'm going to the National Reptile show in Daytona in August though so that might change soon...hehe :D

Good luck with it :)

I've got one ball python (the mean one, of course) who has eaten a f/t rat off of a paper plate in the middle of the living room at 3pm with four people sitting around oohing and ahhing and watching while I explain to them how a snake feeds.

Another one won't take a meal unless I place it in her cage at night then don't even look at her until morning. She's also a live feeder until she develops a better prey response, so for the time being she's eating nothing bigger than fuzzy rats.

My suggestion on feeding is do what works for any particular snake. If you're concerned about the possibility of an impaction, then what might work is to keep that fussy eater on paper towels or newspaper and feed it in the cage until it develops a good feeding response. Then if you still want to you can try feeding it in a separate area.

:hijackd: aside,

How are you housing him?

How are you measuring the temps and humidity and where in the tank do you take the readings?

What are you using to control the heat source?

Can you get us pics of your enclosure?


dr del

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Originally Posted by GoFride08

So sorry you're having these problems! It can be frustrating, I know. Was this 2:30 AM or 2:30 in the afternoon that you tried to get a feeding response?

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2 pm and 11 pm

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Originally Posted by Anya

Not removing is a good idea, since the snakey won't have the stress of being pulled from it's home, and then being shown something to eat. Your own stress won't do your bp any good, and no one's in peril here, everything's okay. :) I noticed you offered...3 times in one day? offering again and again in a short period of time can be stressful, I would definitely put a few days between offering, maybe even a week. If your snake was bitten, that's even MORE stress. There are tons and tons of helpful hints around the forum, I recommend you relax and make a new plan. A BP off feed isn't the end of the world, and it's certainly not a good reason to give up!! They're wonderful creatures, and very much worth the effort.


lol- angllady2 posted while I was writing, what she said, haha. ^.^

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No, I offered it food ever 5 days

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Originally Posted by dr del

:hijackd: aside,

How are you housing him?

How are you measuring the temps and humidity and where in the tank do you take the readings?

What are you using to control the heat source?

Can you get us pics of your enclosure?


dr del

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She's in a 20 gallon tank. I have a thermometer on the warm side and a hygrometer in the middle. I use a CHE and a heat pad.

I have one that is a picky eater. He refused f/t. I switched him to live he took it. He eats in his tub. I will not take him out to feed him again. I supervise when he's eating to make sure he doesn't swallow bedding or get bit. Just so happens my oldest was in blue the other day (only time he won't eat) so I offered it to my picky eater and he took it. It was f/t :) Don't give up yet.

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Originally Posted by gold217

She's in a 20 gallon tank. I have a thermometer on the warm side and a hygrometer in the middle. I use a CHE and a heat pad.

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What are your temps? Do you have anything controlling the CHE and heat pad? Those get surprisingly hot.

it was sarcasm folks....it happens.
if you only have a few snakes then its no problem feeding in the enclosure. once your snake is acclimated, feeding well, and a little bigger its confidence will be greater and you can feed out of its enclosure. i feed my snakes in the enclosure and on aspen. i have not had any issues but i have read where some people have. it is SAFEST to either feed out of the enclosure or on a smooth surface in the enclosure. i at times have taken paper plates and placed in in the enclosure for the snake to eat on. it separates the snake from the bedding.
impaction can happen but takes quite a bit. as for the bone density vs. aspen....well snakes digestive systems are designed to break down bone and fur and meat. they are not designed to break down fibrous materials such as aspen. it can happen but is a very rare occurrence. if you are worried about it then feed out of the tub. if not worried then dont.
adam jeffery

Think about what they take into there system in the wild ???? I really think a little aspen is not going to effect them at all... You say it has happened to a few in the past ?? Is there proof it was even aspen ??

aspen was just the analog for the example. when speaking of past examples i dont remember specifics. i do rememebr when i kept sand boas many people had issues using sand which is why it isnt used as often for them. i have also heard of crushed walnut shells causing issues in geckos. do a google search if you want more.
adam jeffery
btw.. im pro feeding in the enclosure

One thing many new keepers don't realize that they will need A LOT of when keeping Ball Pythons is this:

PATIENCE !!

There is always the exception, but for the most part Ball Pythons are very particular about the way they like to be housed, and how safe they have to feel in order to eat.

They know instinctively that during the process of striking, constricting, eating they are extremely vulnerable. In the wild, they would be an easy target during all this. They cannot defend themselves, they cannot "run" off easily.

Usually, if they do not feel safe, they will not eat ! Many will get quite comfortable with their surroundings and routine to where they eventually have no problem eating during any time of the day or even with some commotion around. However especially with a new hatchling or any newly acquired Ball Python one should take extra care to make it feel safe.

It can be argued to death, but it is always better to feed a Ball Python INSIDE his enclosure UNTIL he/she is an established eater. If it eats in a separate bin, great. But since we have a case where this Ball Python is refusing food, there needs to be a change of direction.

As previously said, check and double check the setup. There is a ton of info and caresheets on here about this, so I do not need to elaborate. I prefer to have hides for my new babies and also to make sure the tub is covered on top and all sides but the front.

Let the snake relax and acclimate. Start over with that, from the last failed feeding attempt on. Another week at least without bugging the snake whatsoever. Try to feed it again in the evening. Wait for the snake to be in the hide, but peeking out. Drop the food in and LEAVE. A mouse hopper / rat fuzzy won't do any damage. Stay nearby and try to observe from far enough to not bother the snake. GIVE IT TIME. If this doesn't work, wait a couple of days and try again. Try a FT or prekilled rat pup, leaving it in front of the hide, or just its head inserted into the hide, leave overnight.

Have patience.

I find that patience and extra effort in the beginning makes the world of a difference, and things usually get much easier from then on.

I would never try assist or worse force feeding that early into the game. That should be reserved for the very last resort when its either this or death of starvation. Force feeding is extremely stressful on the snake, and you risk death from that alone.

Just take a deep breath or two, go over your setup, give the snake some time, and try some of these helpful tips you've been given within this thread. Your snake will come around.

:)

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Originally Posted by Anya

That's not the point. Who goes around taking them to the vet in the wild? Who tests for parasites it the wild? If you own an animal, it's your responsibility to provide to the best of your ability, the best care possible for said animal. Risk of impaction is minimal: It's still a risk, and if your snake will tolerate being moved to eat, I applaud that. I personally don't move my snakes to eat at all, simply because I don't feel that the benefits outweigh throwing my snakes off food. But I will never chide someone for doing something that could potentially benefit their animal!

Sorry, worked up tonight, lol. I'm not meaning to start an argument or anything, just stating my opinion. :)

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Thank you for that. I understand it's a minimal risk as you said but my BP has no problem eating outside her enclosure.(though I know many snakes do)

All I was trying to do was warn the OP of the risk(minimal as it is) if they use aspen substrate.

Hell I got LUCKY with our BP Snickers! She doesn't mind eating outside of her enclosure, has never hissed at us or bitten us and in spite of our months of poor husbandry and a bad shed(all that is corrected now) she forgave us and isn't mean in the slightest.

We are "LUCKY" to have such BP with an AWESOME ATTITUDE but I do understand in the end we did just happen to get "LUCKY" with Snickers.

That being said I feel I had the right to warn the OP of minimal risk of impaction which is all I did and thank you for understanding that when others failed to.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zina10

It can be argued to death, but it is always better to feed a Ball Python INSIDE his enclosure UNTIL he/she is an established eater. If it eats in a separate bin, great. But since we have a case where this Ball Python is refusing food, there needs to be a change of direction.

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I can agree with this fully if having a problem feeding a new snake.

I wasn't trying to discourage the OP from feeding inside the tank...

All I was doing was warning of the risk of impaction if the OP didn't use newspaper as substrate...but of course some people like to bite others heads off on here.(not talking about you though)

Some people on this site have such a nasty "my way or the highway" attitude about advice though.

my first bp was this bad, but now i feed all of them in their enclosures and they do fine. I know how the first time i got it and it wouldnt eat stressed me out but at the same time i didnt want it to be stressed out so i removed the prey and didnt try again for 5 days, eventually she ate and that was that...now most of my picky eaters are the best ones i have...when it comes to bps its just like fishing, patience is a virtue.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by llovelace

Do not remove him/her from her eclosure to feed.

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I ALWAYS feed in a seperate tub! always. Its personal preferance, but if ur snake is stressed, leave it alone for a few days, they will eat when they are ready