Flexwatt questions.

I'm getting my supplies for my leopard gecko breeding tubs. I have been looking at flexwatt to heat with and it doesn't seem to hard to wire up...I have a couple questions though. One: what would be the best thermostat to run flexwatt...I don't think a hydrofarm one would be safe enough? Two: how do I hook the wires coming from the flexwatt to the thermometer? Three: what is belly heat...and is it best? Four: should I have a dimmer also attached and how do I attach it to the thermostat and flexwatt? If anyone Can help that Would be great!

Kevin Bullis

You can use a proportional like helix or herpstat or the new ones by reptile basics vivarium electronics or an on off type like the johnsons or ranco. The main difference is the proportional stats continuously supply power to maintain a set temp, the on/off type do just that click on to reach desired temp and click off when the desired temp is reached. Many people use reptitemp 500 or the hydrofarm with success but I prefer proportional stats. You can buy flexwatt pre wired or wire it yourself. Belly heat is where the flexwatt is placed on the surface the tub sits on vs. back heat where one or more strips ran down the back. Belly heat is easier for me to maintain more stable temps without working my stats hard.

I can only answer these from my experience using flexwatt, I am not an expert in flexwatt so I hope if I am incorrect someone will correct me.

The best thermostat to run flexwatt or any heat source would be Herpstat or Helix, IMO. They are expensive for a reason, and IMO again you get what you pay for.

I run one of my flexwatts with a hydrofarm, have not had any issues yet (will be upgrading eventually). I have seen a lot of people on here that have used hydrofarm for years without any safety issues. I have lost power once and all of my thermostats went back to their current setting, including the hydrofarm, so my boa didn't freeze or fry. My only big issue with it is once the probe is dead, the whole unit has to be replaced, and I don't know nor have I seen the life span of the probe.

I have my flexwatt plugged into my Johnsons, which comes with a power strip. You plug the plug into the power strip, turn it on, set the temp, tape the probe and that's it. (I'm assuming you meant thermostat, not thermometer)

Belly heat is when the heat source is on the floor of the enclosure, back heat is when it is along the back of the enclosure. IMO for adult snakes belly heat is most beneficial as it aides in digestion.

A dimmer may be a good idea for a backup, however I have no idea how to hook it up with the thermostat, but I am curious on how so I can use it too!

I use flexwatt on everything using the hydrofarm and will be upgrading as time goes on, but using 5 at $25-30 it's easier than 100-150 for the others right now.

The dimmer (50%) would plug into the thermostat and the heating source into the dimmer. If the thermostat were to go nuts the heating source would still have a limited amount of juice and not max out. 50-75% of flexwatt power at normal indoor temps would be right around 75-95 degrees F.
Of course if the thermostat stopped working all together there would be not heat, but thats better than frying your critters

I don't use a dimmer but I do have a shelf in each enclosure just in case it gets too hot and they need to bail!

Okay That Is for the info everyone! I went out and got 2x 6' extension cords cut the female end off and split the two wires. I Also got 2x 15qt hefty tubs and drilled some vent holes in the side. All I need now is the thermostat, thermometer, and flexwatt....I'm going with the 4". How much should I need for the two tubs...I'm just going to have those for now.

Here are some pics!

http://tapatalk.com/mu/208ae13e-3c95-84ec.jpg

http://tapatalk.com/mu/208ae13e-3cb6-6c3b.jpg

Kevin Bullis

Anyone care to comment on my tubs and hole drilling skills? :)

Kevin Bullis

Not sure how much flexwatt you'll need, just enough to run across the entire bottom (closer to the back end). As far as the holes they seem okay...might be a few too many but they are spread far apart so hopefully you don't have humidity issues :)

There are 9 a side...I will redo them if I have too....gotta see what the humidity is like when I get them setup. They are for leopard geckos so it doesn't need To be too humid...as I have humid hides for them.

Kevin Bullis

Oh well that makes a huge difference! Sorry I have ball pythons on my brain lol.

Ha yeah. So a hydrofarm would work okay for now? And the flexwatt has to cover the whole length on the tub? Like length wise or width wise?

Kevin Bullis

I'd say length wise for the 4 in....but I'm not a gecko person so I don't know, hydrofarm should be fine for now..

I just bought a rhino raxx from boaphile 10 slot and since this is my first and only rack , would a hydrofarm thermostat work fine for a couple months? Or what would work good also thats not to expensive :d

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Originally Posted by killerphade310

I just bought a rhino raxx from boaphile 10 slot and since this is my first and only rack , would a hydrofarm thermostat work fine for a couple months? Or what would work good also thats not to expensive :d

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I'm not sure what the wattage handling capability is of the hydrofarms are as I dont use them, but as long as the wattage on your rack supersedes the capabilities of your stat you should be ok.

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Originally Posted by iCandiBallPythons

I'm not sure what the wattage handling capability is of the hydrofarms are as I dont use them, but as long as the wattage on your rack supersedes the capabilities of your stat you should be ok.

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its about 80 watts total

I use a $14 soldering gun to melt holes in my tubs. I had too many cracks trying to drill them.

Just throwing that out for anyone reading this ;)

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Originally Posted by killerphade310

its about 80 watts total

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If its 3 in heat tape youre looking at 8 watts per foot, if it was me I would spend a little more and get a ranco or johnson if you dont want to spend the money for a proportinal

Are you going to fasten the tape to the bottom of the tubs? Or are you going to fasten the flex watt to a surface and lay the tub on it?

If you are directly heating tubs I'd recommend against on off types. I don't know much about geckos but the on offs all have the same specs. It will run over and under the set point by one degree. (set at 90 it will run from 89-91) The other spec that matters is the probe accuracy. They are spec'd at +/-2ºF accuracy so in the worst case it could run 3º over the set point. The other end of this equation is the speed of the change. They typically run at 1 min changes That means the animal is subjected to the full power full heat for that period of time.

If the heating element is not fasten to the bottom of the tub that will leave a small air space and the effects of all of what I just mentioned are mostly nullified.

I was going to attach to the rack I'm building...the. place the tub overtop will it still keep it that warm that way? Also what is the best place to buy 4" flexwatt?

Kevin Bullis

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iCandiBallPythons

If its 3 in heat tape youre looking at 8 watts per foot, if it was me I would spend a little more and get a ranco or johnson if you dont want to spend the money for a proportinal

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its 6 watts per foot and i was actually thinking about buying a johnson or a ranco because theres a expo coming next week, but im not sure if they sale thermostats there since this is the first time im going to one :confused:

In a rack it isn't direct an on off will work just fine.

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Originally Posted by knox

I had too many cracks trying to drill them.

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don't push so hard :)

i use soldering iron coz it leaves a smooth hole unlike the drill and its faster then using a drill. As for flexwatt beanfarm.com has all sizes and good prices.

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Originally Posted by OhhWatALoser

don't push so hard :)

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Yeah, yeah...