real quick..

Not trying to start a redundant thread, just needed to know what

size/type screw to use with the 3/4 melamine for my new rack.

Also sorry if this is the wrong place to post.


thanks in advance:snake:

1.5" course thread, drywall screw and counter sink it..

x2 on countersink...i would also predrill just to make sure you dont split the wood

I'd recommend particle board screws, they will countersink them selves just a dimple in the surface to help them run true.

Mmkay.. so I get pre-drilling the hole, but what does countersinking it do?

I'm using 1/2 inch melamine, btw.

1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inch wood screws with a pilot hole. You can buy white plastic caps for the screws for a more professional look! You will still need to countersink them so they are flush!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Misfit

Mmkay.. so I get pre-drilling the hole, but what does countersinking it do?

I'm using 1/2 inch melamine, btw.

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first i second that you should use particleboard screws. 1 1/4 #8 should be perfect. countersinking is done using a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the screws you are using that has a larger piece at the end that makes a shallow hole large enough for the head of the screw to "countersink" or end of flush with the face of the material you are driving it through. with half inch melimine if you do decide to you a countersink bit be very carfull to make only a very shallow hole or you risk driveing the head of the screw right through the gable of the rack. i build cabinets every day for a living and would recemend strongly that you consider using 5/8" material for extra strengh. i think you may find that 1/2" shelfs will begin to sag over time.
hope this helps

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Misfit

Mmkay.. so I get pre-drilling the hole, but what does countersinking it do?

I'm using 1/2 inch melamine, btw.

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You can buy a bit that pre drills and counter sinks it all in one shot, makes things a lot faster.

I build everything with 3/4 doesn't cost that much for for 50% more strength.

Personally I would not counter sink the melamine, the particle board screws are designed to crush, compacting the fibres around the screws and increase the straight at the fastener. Counter sunk holes remove material from already not so strong board. Pilot holes in the larger sizes are useful but not really needed in the smaller ones I just use a awl to get a dimple to start the screw. Although if you are stuck with Phillips and not Robertson you might need the pilot hole to avoid stripping it out.

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

Although if you are stuck with Phillips and not Robertson you might need the pilot hole to avoid stripping it out.

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ya stuck with. Robbies are awsome and Phillips are crap. i mean they are crap. i would rather use slot heads than Phillips. if i lived in the states and needed screws for anything i would pay whatever shipping cost i had to, to get my hands on robbie screws

Slot heads? are you driving them in by hand? if you need so much torque to drive the screw in that you are stripping the head, your doing something wrong....

Coarse threaded dry wall screws are just fine for holding wood together, we are after all just making glorified bookshelves

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OhhWatALoser

Slot heads? are you driving them in by hand? if you need so much torque to drive the screw in that you are stripping the head, your doing something wrong....

Coarse threaded dry wall screws are just fine for holding wood together, we are after all just making glorified bookshelves

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I believe in a concept that unfortunately is not so popular in north America anymore, quality workmanship. in my business it's what sets average cabinet makers apart from cabinet makers that have to turn down work and are booked months in advance. will dry wall screws work? yes of course they will. they actually bite very well into wood, particle board included. and as long as you don't have to move the rack around to much they might hold for ever. so would nails for that matter. but they are not designed to hold together wood. as they name implies they are designed to hold drywall on the wall (and ceiling). particle board screws are engineered to hold in particle board as the name implies. they have a deeper throat in the thread and the angle of the thread is specifically designed to penetrate particle board without disrupting the fibers that the product is made up of. they don't cost anymore, you can find them on the shelf right next to all the other screws at any hardware store, and most importantly they are the best choice for fastening together particle board. why not choose the best tool for the job, especially when it doesn't cost anymore and requires no extra effort. I mean you wouldn't use a hammer to drive screws would you? although I have to admit that with those crap Phillips, I might be tempted
.;)