AC/DC? (no rock & roll, but some soldering involved)

Hi guys, my husband the microwave engineer was admiring my new proportional thermostats. And he asked if they output DC or AC? I... don't... know? Does anybody know?

Also, someone somewhere suggested attaching the wiress to the flexwatt with solder rather than the crimping tool, because the crimp points tend to build up heat over time and can be fire risks. If anyone has strong opinions about that one way or the other, please feel free to share.

But has anybody actually soldered the wires to the flexwatt? Did you just solder them to the same basic place you crimp, or what? Pictures would be extra awesome.

I've only crimped and have had no issues so far. For most electrical connections, I've found crimping to actually be more reliable than soldering in long-term use, but I've heard weak rumors of crimping issues and flexwatt (but never actually even heard as much as second-hand accounts of "my friend had blah blah blah happen").

As for proportional t-stats.. good question! I'm going to assume AC, but you could easily find out by writing the manufacturer. Now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure that, as electrical devices, aren't they required to have all the input/output information written on the main unit (such as with power supplies)?

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Originally Posted by mainbutter

As for proportional t-stats.. good question! I'm going to assume AC, but you could easily find out by writing the manufacturer. Now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure that, as electrical devices, aren't they required to have all the input/output information written on the main unit (such as with power supplies)?

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Yes, okay! It's not with the basic, required looking information (700 max volts, etc.), but the output says very clearly "AC OUT". I almost feel dumb for not looking before asking...

As far as the flexwatt goes, I don't know about building ive never experienced that personally I have however experienced the clip loosening over time and letting the connection fail. Whether that's due to cord movement or my own user error by not getting the clips tight enough I don't know but regardless it has left me with a cold animal a couple of times. Now I just solder all my connections. I'm sure as the previous poster stated solder isn't perfect either but I've had better luck with it personally.
If you do want to solder just melt the plastic off of the shiny silver side of the metal strip running down the side of the flexwatt and solder the wire there. It takes a couple connections to get it to look pretty but you'll get the hang of it. I make and sell racks and caging and I have probably put together 50-75 racks/cages without a single complaint so far. I have had a few ask for the clips and I admit I haven't had anyone complain about the either. I would say the loosening problem might be rectified if I had the flexwatt crimping tool but I'm not dropping 100 bucks on that baby. Lol anyway that's my .02 hope it helps!

yea clips being crap goes along with stab in's in the back of receptacles. Obviously they work for a while, but you can't get around the fact that after heating and cooling so many times, the connection is going to loosen, how long it takes depends on many factors. may take 100 years and you have no problems, but Soldering if done correctly will never loosen and is way more reliable hands down.

How do you insulate the soldered connections? Do you use the plastic clip covers? Or just electrical tape?

I hate to say that I dont know what these are called, but they make small tubes of rubber/plastic that shrink with heat (hair dryer). you put the tube down one piece of wire, sodder, slide the tube over the connection, apply hair dryer, and tada! Finished!

Found it! http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com...ink/34759.html

Hi,

You can't slide those down far enough sadly as the exposed connection is on the flat section of the tape.


I would just use electrical tape - you can put the high temp aluminium tape on top of it to keep it in place afterwards but make certain you have covered all electrical surfaces with the electrical tape before you do.


dr del

Okay, successfully soldered the connection to the flexwatt for the incubator! Man, it was HARD to get the solder to stick to the flexwatt. I'm not sure if it was just that I hadn't melted enough plastic out of the way? Or if my cheap-tastic $5 soldering iron wasn't really hot enough for that join?

...but it seems to work, and the flexwatt is heating up. Now let's see how long it takes to get 12 bottles of arrowhead water to 89F...

when i have a hard time getting the solder to stick i just dip the wire in flux its made for soldering pipe and such together and that always helps it take fast and secure haven't had any problems yet

if it wasn't sticking you weren't getting it hot enough. Use flux core solder and it's alot easier also since the flux is built in. but if your using plain old solder (i still got a roll im using up lol) then you need to use flux to clean the surfaces and keeps oxygen out of the joint.

To cover my solder connections I buy liquid electrical tape.... I just cover the connection with it, and it works great.....

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Originally Posted by dragonboy4578

To cover my solder connections I buy liquid electrical tape.... I just cover the connection with it, and it works great.....

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Hmm I think I'm goons try this stuff.

as you told that your husband is engineer its very good . surely he have the correct knowledge
for more details you can search on google.

It's not a very google-able fact. But we concluded that the output would certainly have to be DC, because the heat tape is basically a giant resistor, and it produces heat because a voltage is driving a current through it. It would have to be a steady voltage and steady current to work, so there much be a transformer somewhere in there between the outlet and the output.

So this liquid electrical tape sounds fantastic. Where do you get it?

Household electricity is alternating current (ac), you can plug heat tape directly into the wall and it warms up. If you look above you'll see the OP noted that the thermostat does state "ac out".


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- -Brian

Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

Notes on soldering:

1. Solder is actually somewhat resistive, though current will pass through it without much problem. The joint should hold together securely and have good contact prior to soldering, the solder is just insurance.

2. When soldering, press the iron to the joint for a few seconds to heat it up and then press the solder the heated joint. Capillary action will cause the solder to flow into the joint.

3. My soldering experience is mostly on perf boards with small components i.e. resistors, capacitors, diodes, transistors. So take my advice with a grain of salt.