A Few Questions From A New Ball Python Owner...Please Read

Please dont flame me... theres so much information out there & I am a responsible, well cared for person when it comes to ANY animal. I have a custom tank which is all wood except for the sliding glass doors. I cannot use a UTH as it sits on the floor and has a wooden screen top. Would a 250watt ceramic heater work good to keep it warm at night? Trying to find ideas outside of a heating pad... daytime temps are no problem. Also, should I make a "water hide" for the water dish so he can soak before shedding and also help with the humidity and the floor being wood would help with getting water on the wood and causing damage. Its a laminate type wood floor. Thanks guys for your help!! Also will the big Eco-Terra hides work good for hides for an adult or do I need something bigger??

The CHE will kill your humidity. You can use an UTH inside but you have to REALLY watch your temps. I have seen people get away with it but like I said I would get a good thermostat.

The 50% humidity is going to cause problem with any unsealed wood..........that is why it took me so long to get my enclosures done. I had to figure out what I wanted to do with the inside.

So I should avoid a ball python?? :( I wanted an albino so badly

The temperature depends on the power of the bulb, the distance from the tank and the size of the tank. The common literature says that the tank should be around 83-85F for the hot side with a 90F basking place, and 80F for the cool side in the day. Night temperatures should be around 75F. As long as you can reach those temperatures with whatever wattage of bulb will be fine. Remember not to use hot rock heaters because your snake would coil around it and burn itself.

I'm not sure about a water hide; definitely you could do that, but I've read a humid hide is enough.

Another thing, you'd have to be careful about the wood walls, which would probably deteriorate due to the warm moist environment of the living conditions. Watch out for mold and what not. Also, avoid cedar and fir woods for substrate and the walls because of the wood oils which are poisonous to the snake.

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Originally Posted by Bdubedub

So I should avoid a ball python?? :( I wanted an albino so badly

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Depending on the genetics of the albino, they could be much more expensive than a ball.

Would a few corn snakes go good in that inclosure?? What do I need at night for a corn? I know this is a BP forum... but I want to get the right snake.

Im prepared to pay $400 for an albino male... not worried of genetics. Hes a family pet.

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Originally Posted by Merlin

Also, avoid cedar and fir woods for substrate and the walls because of the wood oils which are poisonous to the snake.

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I didnt even think about that............what type of wood is the enclosure?

I don't think you need to avoid a ball python, just look over the caresheet for them on this site.

Ball pythons like small tight hides, buy a hide that your ball can squeeze into and sort of 'barely' fit. Makes them feel safe.

As far as the CHE, I've seen people use them and it works great, but you will want something to measure humidity as like he said they can sap the water out of the air--so you'll need to spray the cage!

Just make sure your wood on the inside is sealed and sealed and sealed again and it will last. It won't last forever, but I've seen custom wooden tanks last 15+ years before they warp.

If you want to be sure the wood doesn't over drench, use something like a dog bowl that won't tip for the water, that way you at least won't have huge water spills!

I already have aspen in place.

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Originally Posted by Bdubedub

Would a few corn snakes go good in that inclosure?? What do I need at night for a corn? I know this is a BP forum... but I want to get the right snake.

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Corns or Kings are more forgiving on temps and humidity BUT balls are more forgiving on handling.

you can get just about any snake in albino too

The tank has a white type laminate wood on the inside..... back and bottom floor. The sides are wood... not sure the type.

Maybe post a photo! :) That could help. As long as you seal the inside of the wood (and it isn't toxic) there shouldn't be too much of a problem, a lot of people have all wood enclosures!

Probably melamine back and bottom?? That should be fine but the sides might need sealer then. Try to post up some good pics so we can get a better idea

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...b/106_0299.jpghttp://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...b/106_0298.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...b/106_0297.jpg
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...b/106_0300.jpg

What is awesome about this is that this enclsure was given to me this week for FREE!:taz:

As far as a "basking spot" goes you really do want belly heat. You could use a uth underneath a piece of slate under the substrate. (of course have this on a good thermostat and keep an eye on it.

I think it will be fine JUST loose the sticky guages

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

I think it will be fine JUST loose the sticky guages

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I just got that lol... it doesnt work? I cant afford anything expensive to test the humidity.

yes definitely get rid of the sticky gauges. you can pick up and accurite (brand name) indoor outdoor thermometer and hygrometer at walmat for $12

How about a humidity pen?

So no ones answered me as far as what kind of snake to go with? Corn? Ball? King? Milk?

They don't work at ALL, I've seen those things be as far off as 20%! That's a difference between 60 and 40!

You can find cheap digital ones at lowes! Like, 10 dollars maybe. Even nice ones with a thermometer as well.

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Originally Posted by purplemuffin

They don't work at ALL, I've seen those things be as far off as 20%! That's a difference between 60 and 40!

You can find cheap digital ones at lowes! Like, 10 dollars maybe. Even nice ones with a thermometer as well.

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The humidity pen of the gauge?

Balls and corns have about the same care. Those two are the best starter snakes in my opinion. Kings and milks are a bit more flighty, more likely to bite or musk.

Corns are wiggly noodles, someone who has never handled a snake might be nervous with one, they are active. They are very forgiving in their care, however, and very docile animals. GREAT eaters.

Balls are calm and one of the best first snakes as far as handling. They are frustrating though as if any little thing is off they might go off feed. This can terrify new owners(I myself am guilty of panicking when Maru wouldn't eat for a few weeks)

It's really and truly up to you. As long as you are knowledgeable and willing to match the care they need, you can have just about any of the beginner snakes. Make sure your size enclosure is good, the food size is right, the heat is right, and the humidity is right. Then pick the snake you think is right for you.

Edit: Any of the analogue gauges for humidity or temperature tend to go bad even if they work right at first. It's just how they are made, it isn't accurate enough for care of a snake.

So would you say the enclosure will work for a ball python? Would it be ok to have a hide on the cool side with sphagnam moss inside? That would help for the humidity... also a tub in the middle of the cage with holes on both sides or something for water and used for a water hide? Would that work? I really think a UTH is out of question.... Will a 250watt ceramic heater heat the tank good at night?

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Originally Posted by purplemuffin

Balls and corns have about the same care. Those two are the best starter snakes in my opinion. Kings and milks are a bit more flighty, more likely to bite or musk.

Corns are wiggly noodles, someone who has never handled a snake might be nervous with one, they are active. They are very forgiving in their care, however, and very docile animals. GREAT eaters.

Balls are calm and one of the best first snakes as far as handling. They are frustrating though as if any little thing is off they might go off feed. This can terrify new owners(I myself am guilty of panicking when Maru wouldn't eat for a few weeks)

It's really and truly up to you. As long as you are knowledgeable and willing to match the care they need, you can have just about any of the beginner snakes. Make sure your size enclosure is good, the food size is right, the heat is right, and the humidity is right. Then pick the snake you think is right for you.

Edit: Any of the analogue gauges for humidity or temperature tend to go bad even if they work right at first. It's just how they are made, it isn't accurate enough for care of a snake.

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Ive had both corns and kings in the past... but never watched humidity. I just soaked them prior to shed...

I REALLY want an Adult Albino Ball... theyve been a DREAM of mine!

Is the wood sealed on the inside? I think the inside looks great for a ball python. It's a beautiful enclosure!

Thank you purple for the compliment and all your help! As sealed you mean like caulked? It has acrlic (sp?) caulk on all dies of the tank.

But you do need to read and re-read the whole care sheet on balls. They do best with belly heat, you can attach a heat pad underneath something like a slate rock so the snake can not come in contact with the actual heating device, but still gets the warmth. With the right adjustments, most enclosures can be made to work!

I mean sealed as in it isn't just bare wood, like it's been water proofed.

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Originally Posted by Bdubedub

So would you say the enclosure will work for a ball python? Would it be ok to have a hide on the cool side with sphagnam moss inside? That would help for the humidity... also a tub in the middle of the cage with holes on both sides or something for water and used for a water hide? Would that work? I really think a UTH is out of question.... Will a 250watt ceramic heater heat the tank good at night?

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A UTH is not out of the question. But you will need some linoleum tiles, a drill, and a hot glue gun to secure the thermostat probe with. Here is the link to a thread with photos on how to set it up:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...mine-enclosure

Hope this helps...

The wood is a slick white laminate type of wood... kind of like a white cabinet.

Ok, assume I go with a heating pad.... how big of one do I get? What kind? Brand? I need a rheostat for heating, correct? To adjust the temp. Can I attach the uth & then cover it with linoleum or slate tile? What size wattage bulb then would I need for night time heat for a tank this size? Would a water hide be good for a water bowl? And a cool side with sphagnum moss hide?

Why is the entire tank covered in tile?

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Originally Posted by Bdubedub

Why is the entire tank covered in tile?

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It probably helps protect the bottom of the enclosure.

Do you know what the dimensions of the tank are?

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Originally Posted by Vypyrz

It probably helps protect the bottom of the enclosure.

Do you know what the dimensions of the tank are?

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48" long... by 25" deep by 36" tall

I have thick paper towels to help protect the bottom.

So what size ceramic heater or light bulb for night? Which one? Is a sphagnam moss hide on the cool side smart and a water hide in the middle for soaking and drinking?

Thanks guys again for all your help! I just want to do this right... not pay $300 for a snake and have it suffer or die.:please:

Well, it's certainly big enough. Some would argue that's too big for a ball python, but I say as long as you have proper hides, maintain perfect temps and humidity, and maybe even add a few extra hides/foliage in the 'bare' looking areas, a bigger tank is fine. In the wild they may live in burrows but those burrows are not encased in a glass box, so I think a ball python would be fine. Some may get stressed in a cage that size, but mine never has been.


But get a digital thermometer to make sure your temps are right! I don't trust the gauges!

I have a temp gun that Ive always used for temps... its very accurate.. .5 in degrees real good.

So bulb or che for night time? And moss hide or no? And water hide? Id like to have that to help save the wood on the tank.

Tips for humidity: Put a LARGE water bowl on the hot side of the enclosure. Water will evaporate and create humidity. Cover the screen top, you already have side ventilation, all the heat and humidity will leave out the top if it's open. Spray the enclosure occassionally. You should be golden after that.

Same goes for heat! See, I don't know the exact size because it depends on a lot of variables! You might have to try some different things and take back what doesn't work. Honestly a big uth that is underneath tile would be great, and with a good thermostat you can change the temps if it gets too hot!

Edit: With a cage your size the CHE might help at night. No bulb, they need a day/night cycle.

You don't need a moss hide, but some people just put the moss in one of their hides during shed, or even moist paper towels.

So a 8x18 zoomed heat pad.... take linoleum and place it over the uth and get a thermostat... I dont really want an open water container on the warm side..I wont have any room for a hide and risk the chance of spillage.

Will this work for a hide?

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CCoQ8wIwAg#

For a floor area that large I would say the smallest UTH you should use is a 11" X 17" but being such a large tank, a 11" X 23" would probably do you better. Most pet shops will usually have 11 X 17's in stock or you can order both sizes from Reptile Basics:

http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultratherm-heat-pads/

I wouldn't worry about humid hides and sphagnum moss just yet. I would start off with just a large water bowl and see what the humidity does and work from there.
I've never set up a tank that tall so I'm not sure of what wattage CHE you should use, but I would suggest using a rheostat or dimmer on that as well so you can adjust it if needed. I would position it closer to the warm side, but no further over than the center to start off with. With a tank that tall, you are going to have to tweak, adjust, and try different things until you get everything running right. Since it is a long tank, you may even have to go with a heat lamp or CHE on both ends. That's why I say start with the minimum equipment and set-up and add extra pieces as needed. That way, you don't end up buying a bunch of stuff that you don't need...

I might suggest using coconut husk as a substrate. It is great for humidity control. A uth would be good with tile or slate over it and under the substrate. if you are worried about water bowl spillage get something heavy. I have a ceramic water dish that my 4 ft bp cant knock over. If there is spillage coconut husk will absorb it right away and keep it off of the wood.

2 foot of 11" flexwatt should work great but I wouldnt use coco on a wood bottom enclosure. Just because it will find any small crack in the laminate and soak through.