New setup

So just bought a ten gallon to house my new baby ball in. got a uth a hide a water bowl and some nice substrate forget the name holds humidity great...maybe too great. The uth seems custom like to ribbon heaters if that makes sense... Got an accurite therm and humidity digital on hot spot humidity reads like seventy five... Temp seventy. This uth does not adhere to the tank so its on top of polystyrene and under tank. Had it plugged into rheostat for a test but could not achieve high enough temps. Plugging it directly into wall to see if temps go up ambient room temp is average sixty eight..... Feel like I might need to get some better equipment before I can bring my snake home....

Will post more details after class... Only can swype text so much on this droid x before bed.

Comments and recommendations appreciated.

Your temps are definitely not hight enough. Hot side should be 88-90 and cool side should be 78-80 and should never drop below 75. Ever.

Humidity should be around 50%-60%, and should be bumped up during the shed cycle to around 70% - 80%. If you're having trouble getting the room warm enough, you could invest in a small space heater from wal-mart.

As for the UTH, you should definitely have something to control it with, either a rheostat or a thermostat, because they can easily get hot enough to burn your snake. If the UTH was only bringing up the temperature to 75, there's either something wrong with the heater or something wrong with your thermometer.

To make your heater more efficient, you could tape it on with aluminum tape, as it is heat resistant and adheres very well to glass and other shiny surfaces.

Is an uth heater enough? Seems like if I get a che it might warm things up and lower humidity.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AMBiEN22

Is an uth heater enough? Seems like if I get a che it might warm things up and lower humidity.

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Yes, UTH's are definitely enough. I've never had to use more than a UTH. Ceramic heat emitters work well too, but ball pythons (like many snakes) will benefit more from belly heat than back heat. Also, unless you're getting condensation on the glass from the humidity, there's nothing to worry about. Humidity is not harmful if it's higher than 50% (in the wild they'll encounter humidity as high as 100% sometimes). It only gets dangerous when the humidity is too low, as this can cause a respiratory infection.

Many people struggle with keeping humidity up, so if I were you I would be thankful that I had enough, and just leave it at that.

Yeah I was worried about the humidity now I am worried about maintaining heat... Could you recommend a good uth and a decent thermostat? Going to try to return this zoo med rheostat for twenty bucks and this crap uth for another twenty... My tank is accrylic so I feel a good uth that adheres would help with heat...also if a space heater is out of the question and ambien air will always be sixty eight will a lamp be necessary... Then again a better question would be can a uth put off enough heat in that aambien air temp?

If the room is 68 degrees then a UTH probably won't get the ambient temps you want andwill probably have to use a small ceramic on top of the uth.
I'd use the rheostat for the ceramic and pick up a cheap thermostat to control the uth.
If you want to save some money buy flexwatt from reptilebasics or the beanfarm and wire it to a cord and plug that into a thermostat instead of a store bought prebuilt heat pad.

11x12 flexwatt = $3.60 a foot VS $20+ for a prebuilt zoo-med or Zilla heat pad or other store bought.
With an 11X12 you can cut it down to cover 1/2 of the bottom of the tank which will help some with your ambient temps and still give the snake room to cool off on the cool end.

Zoo med products scare me a little seem kind of run of the mill products made to be mass produced and don't keep in mind that different brands will be used with them. This is what I plan to try, input is appreciated. Get an uth from zilla I think the brand is called and try to find a decent red heat lamp. Ceramic would be awesome with no heat admission but I'm thankful to have high humidity don't want to sacrifice it. So the question that I propose is simple with a zilla adhesive uth a red heat lamp combined with a thermostat I feel I can achieve appropriate heat..... Here lies the question where can or what brand can I purchase a thermometer that will keep track of both the uth and lamp to achieve desired temps?

I've seen a lot of people use helix and herp stat? Is this over kill for a ten gallon keep in mind I feel this will be a go od investment as the snake only ages and gets bigger. Also in my sixty eight degree weather over kill might be a neccesity...

Again I appologize about spelling and grammer but typing on a droid gets annoying lol

IMO Zilla brand is no different in quality than zoo-med, both are way more expensive than flexwatt.

One or two probed thermometers is always a good thing to have.
Most any garden store, walmart, home depot and others sell indoor/outdoor thermometers.
Accurite seems to be fairly popular.

Having a quality thermostat is never over kill although most people with just a ten gallon tank go with cheaper on/off thermostats.
Repti-temp 500R, Hydrofarm, zilla all make cheaper thermostats.
Johnsons controls, Herpstat, Helix to name a few are your better quality thermostats.

Zilla and Zoo-Med are okay quality but way overpriced. I don't know the brand name (there was none on the bag) but at a local reptile store I picked up a green colored UTH that was apparently meant to be used inside the cage. Obviously I don't use it inside the cage, but it's not sticky so I can just tape it on and then if I ever decide to remove it I can.

As for the thermostats, I'm personally a huge fan of Herpstat, but you could also go for Helix which is really good or Hydrofarm. Any of the ones mentioned above.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by snakesRkewl

If the room is 68 degrees then a UTH probably won't get the ambient temps you want andwill probably have to use a small ceramic on top of the uth.
I'd use the rheostat for the ceramic and pick up a cheap thermostat to control the uth.
If you want to save some money buy flexwatt from reptilebasics or the beanfarm and wire it to a cord and plug that into a thermostat instead of a store bought prebuilt heat pad.

11x12 flexwatt = $3.60 a foot VS $20+ for a prebuilt zoo-med or Zilla heat pad or other store bought.
With an 11X12 you can cut it down to cover 1/2 of the bottom of the tank which will help some with your ambient temps and still give the snake room to cool off on the cool end.

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Just so your aware, 11" flexwat has SPECIFIC Cut here lines which is at every 12". If you cut it through the black you will compromising the heating elements. As most 11" sold now isnt straight black lines now, rather zig zag

http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/flex_cut.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RichsBallPythons

Just so your aware, 11" flexwat has SPECIFIC Cut here lines which is at every 12". If you cut it through the black you will compromising the heating elements. As most 11" sold now isnt straight black lines now, rather zig zag

http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/flex_cut.jpg

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All of the flexwatt I've been buying is straight line and has been since at least last year :confused:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by snakesRkewl

All of the flexwatt I've been buying is straight line and has been since at least last year :confused:

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Ive ordered some and gotten both from same site. So who knows what is new.

I just recommend not cutting below the 12" sizes

Thank you all for the help not sure what type of thermostat to get I've spent one fifty on a fish tank canister filter I don't see why I can't spend that on a snake. I know there are different types like on off and ones that work like a rheostat like changes power to the connected devices. I feel like that is better at maintaining a stay temp.

So my questions start with given it being the winter season I feel like a nice helix or a thermometer by one of the other brands will work nicely. When it comes to wiring I am no electrician so I feel flex watt would be hard for me, hence why I want to lean towards the zilla or zoo med. Anyone use these and it provides enough heat? Also for a ten gallon what size bulb would be appropriate or should I go ceramic. I'm happy my humidity is high so don't want to crash it with a che.

For those who are following my thread!!! here is some picks of the tank and some details i left out!!

As you can see my humidity is down too 66% down from 80% so i am in a better range lol. As i mentioned the temp is super cold! Nothing is hooked up and there is no inhabitant in the cage so do not be alarmed!!! Thinking of buying a herpstat to help with my heating issue!

The substrate i bought and seems to hold humidity like a champ is "100% Natural Cypress Mulch"

http://i351.photobucket.com/albums/q...-11-05_479.jpg
http://i351.photobucket.com/albums/q...-10-54_120.jpg

This is the UTH heater i own keep it or chuck it! lol http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultrath...uth-6-x11.html Feel like if i tape it to the bottom if i can.... its kinda tight fit and get a thermostat it might be worthy but i had it plugged in by itself and didn't seem to heat the floor of the cage up too much. Then again i don't know what 93 degree wood should feel like.... I feel that a temp gun will be a good investment..

Ultratherms don't get hot enough from what I've heard from others using them.
They are made for lower ambient temps than you're looking for.

Temp guns are definitely a nice toy, I use mine constantly.

Ive used ultratherms for boa sized cages and they have all reached 110 in mins

Think I'm going to pick up a herp stat and a light, tape the therm uth and see what happens

Hey,
I think that one of the issues you are having is that the room temps and the insulative value of your tank vs the wattage of the heater is not quite enough. In other words the UTH isn't able to lift the temps high enough over the room temps. There are a few ideas that may help,

raise the rooms temp,

A second heater (CHE it help lift the aquariums ambient temp)

A higher wattage heat source. (heat tape maybe something to think on)

The Herpstats or Helix are great systems it is like comparing the old dial aquarium heaters to the preset digital ones. The on off style work as well, but the big question with them is how far away from the 'set temp' does it come on and off at. Some are only a few degrees and others is 15-25º which is a bit scary. A good T-Stat is an insurance policy for the health and well being of the animal in your care.

GOOD JOB on spending some time to iron out these issues BEFORE you add a snake!

Humidity can be resolved by misting and or mods to the tank either limiting the air flow with wrapping the lid or a bit more drastic change like this...

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...arium-Solution

Cyprus is good at humidity but I find coco coir better it holds as much water as peat moss does. And is cheap and environmentally responsible as an added benefit.

I hope this helps some!
Alex

Instead of a che I was thinking of just a red heat lamp? Rhino that will be efficient? Also I geuss there is a lot of controversy when it comes to how much heat this thermo uth admits. Some say they have achieved appropriate levels in a fifty degree room others say it only raises temp twenty degrees higher than the room... I feel with the appropriate thermostat and a good heat lamp in such a small tank I could possibly achieve the correct temps also going to tape the uth to the bottom... I feel it gets plenty hot just the cold air cools it and with the polystyrene bottom I added I can prevent the cold air from entering. Before this raises concern note that assuming the hundred dollar herp stat works than no melting or burning of snake will occur...

Still unsure what size heat lamp I need.

If you get an oil-filled heater such as this one to heat the room up to about 78-80 degrees, I think you'll have a much easier time maintaining temperatures in that tank. I can't speak to how it will affect your electric bill since I've never used one, but I've heard good things about them.

Wowzas,

#1 to high humidity is bad. It can cause health issues with your pet.
#2 the 11" heat tape can be cut almost anywhere, call bean farm and make sure you get the good stuff after placing your order.
#3 the Che is your best bet to help with ambient. A room heater will probably send your hydro bill through the roof.
#4 take the heat pad you bought back. Is it a rainforest one? Probably only like 2-4 watts you need the desert one. Your rheostat is fine.
#5 get another hide for the cool side.


If you have problems lowrering your humidity get a smaller water bowl or more circulation through the tank. It shouldn't feel wet or moist inside all the time. This can cause problems:

I'll second the kudos for working through this before bringing your snake into the environment. This is the responsible way to do it. I get so frustrated with the "I brought my snake home last month & he never even plays with his duct tape ball. What do I feed this thing?" type threads. ;)

Also, BPs seem to stress easily and feel more secure if you black out the back and sides of glass/acrylic enclosures. I used a thin black foam (from a hobby store) secured with glue to the outside of my tank. This may help a little with your temps and will definitely give a better sense of security.

It's tough to tell, but your tank looks rather tall. Not a big deal, but as BPs are not climbers, that extra height offers more air to heat.

I also lay small plexi-glass panels ($2 from Home Depot) over my screen on top of the tank. This will help keep heat & humidity in. Covering the screen in aluminum foil is also a popular option. UTHs are necessary, but do very little for ambient air temps if your room temp is too low.

I went with a 20 gallon long tank from the beginning and just ensured that I had it filled with enough clutter for a sense of security. Identical hides on the hot & cool side are good. I struggled a great deal with my temps & humidity. I have a UTH on both the hold & cool sides controlled by separate Ranco thermostats. The big box pet store type brands are way behind in the world of thermostats. My Rancos (very similar to Johnson) are actually designed for commercial HVAC applications, but work well for many of us.

Welcome to the addiction, err I mean hobby.

Ok,

First the new 11 inch heat may NOT be cut anywhere but the CUT line.

http://images116.fotki.com/v107/phot...CC_2426-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

Heat pads at X wattage (6 watts for example) and will be able to raise say 20 degrees over the room temperature, if your room is 60 it will only be able to raise to 80 or so unless you heat the room, I found that cost my power bill about 25$ a month when I used mine.

Test it some day when you are around just plug it in and check it every 15 or 20 min and see what a 'run-away' will produce. I actually know what each of my enclosures will cap to in the event of a failure.If you can only get to 90 it just isn't enough wattage.

Rheostats work really well in a stable environment but do not work well in a fluctuating room my snake room can drop 8-10 degrees in a day so I'd have to check a rheostat every few hours it is too much work stable room temps are needed or a thermostat the herpstat helix is a great option.

Alex

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeremy78

Wowzas,

#1 to high humidity is bad. It can cause health issues with your pet.
#3 the Che is your best bet to help with ambient. A room heater will probably send your hydro bill through the roof.
#4 take the heat pad you bought back. Is it a rainforest one? Probably only like 2-4 watts you need the desert one. Your rheostat is fine.
#5 get another hide for the cool side.

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Response to #1 I've heard humidity of 100% is fine as long as their is no condensation or water basically in or on the cage making the environment way to moist. This irrelevant though as the tank has not been heated so the humidity is not moving. Over the last 4 days i think it has been now the humidity has dropped significantly to about 48% so humidity will not be an issue.

Response to #3 As a CHE could be beneficial why is everyone shying away from bulbs?! CHE will kill my humidity and i'd rather not play music humidity with my snake cage! =P

Response to #4 The UTH i have right now is 7 watts. Rheostat would be fine if my room did not fluctuate in temp.

Response to #5 Will do and i plan on getting a lot of cover!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rjsone

I'll second the kudos for working through this before bringing your snake into the environment.

Also, BPs seem to stress easily and feel more secure if you black out the back and sides of glass/acrylic enclosures. I used a thin black foam (from a hobby store) secured with glue to the outside of my tank. This may help a little with your temps and will definitely give a better sense of security.

Welcome to the addiction, err I mean hobby.

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Thank you! I'm a chemist so i take pride and what i do if i do not fully understand something or know what is going on i will not go through with it all till i do! I DON'T want anything blowing up in my face =P! Also in the pics i don't know if it is hard to see i have already blacked out the walls ;D. Also once i get heat all in and it does not heat up enough i will go plexi glass or tin foil method =)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

Ok,

Heat pads at X wattage (6 watts for example) and will be able to raise say 20 degrees over the room temperature, if your room is 60 it will only be able to raise to 80 or so unless you heat the room,
Alex

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My neighbor has a ball, and a boa i believe. He is able to achieve proper temps in his cages and exhibits good husbandry in the next couple of days i am going to go and see how he manages lol. So i know its possible in these cold months to still get the heat up at low room temps.


And i thought this thread had died thank you for the responses! :gj:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

First the new 11 inch heat may NOT be cut anywhere but the CUT line.

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Yours might not be the straight line stuff but I called the beanfarm and they tell me they only sell the straight line stuff that can be cut shorter than every 12 inches.
That's what they tell me anyways...

carry on :P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by snakesRkewl

Yours might not be the straight line stuff but I called the beanfarm and they tell me they only sell the straight line stuff that can be cut shorter than every 12 inches.
That's what they tell me anyways...

carry on :P

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Thats strange? I called the beanfarm as well and they told me the straight line stuff is all they carry now?


Weird?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

Ok,

First the new 11 inch heat may NOT be cut anywhere but the CUT line.

Heat pads at X wattage (6 watts for example) and will be able to raise say 20 degrees over the room temperature, if your room is 60 it will only be able to raise to 80 or so unless you heat the room, I found that cost my power bill about 25$ a month when I used mine.

Test it some day when you are around just plug it in and check it every 15 or 20 min and see what a 'run-away' will produce. I actually know what each of my enclosures will cap to in the event of a failure.If you can only get to 90 it just isn't enough wattage.

Rheostats work really well in a stable environment but do not work well in a fluctuating room my snake room can drop 8-10 degrees in a day so I'd have to check a rheostat every few hours it is too much work stable room temps are needed or a thermostat the herpstat helix is a great option.

Alex

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That is the old style of 11" heat tape.

60*F is very hard to raise the temp. I think I remember the op saying the room was 68*F.

A 10*F change is VERY extreme. Even a proportional thermostat would have a nearly impossible time controlling that.

I got my flexwatt from Reptile Basics and it had the straight "cut anywhere" lines, this is by design according to their flexwatt guide on the site. Here's a quote of what they have written in the Flexwatt FAQ.

"The element that we sell has been specifically chosen for reptile rack and cage use and can be cut to almost any length. Some of the 11" heat tape you will encounter on the market is what is known as "panelized" and instead of the straight, black element lines it has a zig-zag pattern. The panelized element is best cut at the designated cut lines (approximately every 12"). It is for this reason we use and sell the continuous element version that can be cut virtually any length! "

Personally, I'm glad I got the straight line, as it gives much more adaptability for choosing the length of heat tape I desire.

Maybe, I got mine from a direct dealer. I don't know if it is new or old it came 6 months ago from Calorique.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeremy78

That is the old style of 11" heat tape.

60*F is very hard to raise the temp. I think I remember the op saying the room was 68*F.

A 10*F change is VERY extreme. Even a proportional thermostat would have a nearly impossible time controlling that.

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LOL you mean as I sit here in my house with a winter storm outside and it is 60ºF and the coldest of my cool sides is 80.4 and the coldest of my hot spots is 90.8. I have no problems at all with my rack or 5 enclosures. It isn't extreme at all. The herpstats rarely say they are running the heat sources at much more than 15-20%. Efficient systems that is all, the rack is the least efficient thing I have. I try to use real life examples.

So i have found a solution to my problems! this is what i plan to do! Going to stress test my UTH i have now see how hot it can get if its a sissy its being replaced buy a expensive UNWIRED herpstat ranco or some thermometer for my UTH. As for the heat lamp i plan to get a 100watt red bulb lamp for the tank! This will be monitored by a Zoomed 500r!

IN THEORY this should work! So the UTH will be controlled by the thermostat with low error providing superior belly heat! The ambient temps will be controlled by reptitemp 500r thermostat so i do not have to adjust the rheostat or dimmer constantly, the bulb more than powerful enough for ten gallon. Also i have an accurite temp and humidity digital that i will place on my cool side to take measurements of the heat their. My probed stick on thermometer will track the hot side ambient temp and my nice thermostat will keep track of the heat of the UTH.

Also a temp gun will be purchased!

Final costs? thinking about atleast 200 hundred ish. Gotta do some pricing around and determine who sells un-wired products ect.

I have seen zoo med 500r thermostat go as low as 30 dollars. expect the bulb and lamp shad to run me another 20ish. so that's 50 their. Expect the thermostat un-wired to run around 50-80 dollars.

As I posted in your other thread, why do you want an unwired thermostat? You can get a pre-wired Ranco thermostat from Reptile Basics for $79. Also, Herpstats don't have an unwired model. For the base model Herpstat, it's either $109 for ungrounded plugs or $119 for grounded plugs.

That sound like you have worked out your problem. I have found in the area I am in (and an old old house) that having the tank walls insulated helps hold the ambient temps well A photo double sided tape to a ridged foam insulation works well.
Alex

I have insulation in the bottom to keep belly heat protected. my friend has LARGE glass tanks at his house and his bulbs do the trick =P so i think i should be alright.

Because if you search and look at the unwired ones they go for like 40-50 dollars plus 5 dollars for a power strip i save like 60-70 dollars =/. You basically pay the company 20-30 dollars more for what you could do yourself =/.

Not only does it come with directions but a lot of people made Youtube videos =P
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9YO5jZ9H6I

Some deals i found in minutes will have to sand down the rough edges see what shipping rates will go and see maybe if i can buy them local.

Bargin! just gotta check the shipping rates =P
http://www.bigalsonline.com/productD...LAID=388701836


this infrared temp gun is sweet :O
http://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Digit.../dp/B002CTVYAC

CHEAP!
http://www.pexsupply.com/Ranco-ETC-1...put-11627000-p

Probably buy it all through amazon as price differences is only a few dollars and i can probably get free shipping =P

For those who are still following, ordered my ranco thermostat tonight scored it for 49 bucks =]. Will be picking up my lamp possibly tomorrow.

Picked up a lamp and my thermo for the ambient temps.
http://i351.photobucket.com/albums/q...-59-50_519.jpg
http://i351.photobucket.com/albums/q...-59-36_898.jpg

The zilla and zoomed were the same price at this local retailer so i figured I'd pick up the one with the temp dial on it make my life a TINY bit easier let you know how i like the products and how things work out.

As you can see my substrate finnally dried out =P humidity is down to 30's and temp is climbing i will post a pick when i get temp regulated. Ranco is processing and should be here by this Thursday or sooner i hope for the UTH. I saw a thermo temp gun at this local retailer a little baby one like a key chain size was 40 dollars!!! i could not push myself to impulse buy going to shop around...

I know i'm probably talking to myself now but! just in case i still have one follower lol.

Temps are now in the mid 80's! which is awesome. Buying a new battery for my other thermo, going to probably keel the acu-rite on the cold side and have my probed thermo on the warm side. Then twiddling my thumbs till my ranco comes in. Can't wait to wire it =)

Just received word! its shipped! =P

ON/OFF thermo with the heat lamp is getting a little annoying its like a disco show, I'm thinking a rheostat is in order lol. It's definitely efficient but is annoying and who knows if it will disturb the snake.

<3 trial an error :tears: I'll prolly return it tomorrow haha.

ON/OFF thermos can be fine for a ceramic heater or heating pad, but not for lights. I've also heard that the continuous on and off (besides being annoying as hell) will also cause premature failure of the light filament.

Yeah i figured the same thing so i am going with a rheostat. I feel confident that if i can keep ambient temps from 88-92 range. That is perfect my ranco thermostat will be coming and that will keep his belly temp at a perfect i feel like i am going to set it for 90~92 range. Still got to grab another hide squirt bottle and tiny little laser pointer like battery for my thermometer. Plus the essentials to wire the ranco. Thinking I'll have my snake by the end of this week.

Sounds like things are progressing, I think it might be a typo but in case it is not, the ambient temps should be high 70s low 80s most say 80 is the target. The hot spot at about 90ºF there isn't much need for higher you can tweak the temps based on the snake, some like it warm some not so much. The zilla T-stat you have is ok I have one too but I only use it to back up the herpstat, it is much better than the 500r. Personally I like proportional T-stats like the herpstat I feel like I am in control with them, personal opinion.

BTW there is no problem with incandescent bulbs turning on and off a lot. We have 26 photo enlargers at work they are turned on and off every few seconds all the time (24 hours a day) the bulbs lasts for years. Not that I think it is a good idea to place a bulb on a t-stat however, just FYI.

You'll need a second hide and I'd suggest some cover like plants or something to make that big open space seem smaller snakes like to feel like they are watching you not you watching them.
Alex

Down the road I would really suggest getting a plastic enclosure.

http://www.reptilebasics.com/
http://www.animalplastics.com/
http://www.boaphileplastics.com/
http://www.visionproducts.us/htm7/cages.html
http://www.showcasecages.com/

I am sure I am missing a few vendors. With a front opening plastic enclosure you get better insulation, keeping humidity is easier, they are front opening which makes them easier to clean and get at your snake. Many of them can be locked, giving you that piece of mind. I housed my BP in a 10 gallon and moved to a 3'x2' Showcase cage as soon as he out grew it. I cluttered up the cage with a baked piece of wood and some artificial vines.

I plan too once she (i plan on getting a female) outgrows this tank. I might even go tub systems... But who knows time will tell =). I'm leading towards tubs as they are cheap hold humidity well and i can make a custom rack which would be a really fun project! =) The premade cages i have heard good things about them and I've heard horror stories from them.

Two downsides that i hear aquariums and custom cages share are that they tend to be annoying to clean. As a tub you can just plop it in the bath tub and scrub away if need be!

I know though that pre-made and and tubs both hold humidity great! Although tubs can be an eye sore... you know what the well being of the snake comes first to me if i want to see my snake i'll pop off the lid =P. This enclosure is stored in my room so its not like i need a 360 visual to show it off to anyone. =).

I must say though the pre-made cages are affective and look nice :P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Egapal

http://www.showcasecages.com/

I housed my BP in a 10 gallon and moved to a 3'x2' Showcase cage as soon as he out grew it. I cluttered up the cage with a baked piece of wood and some artificial vines.

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OMG THESE CAGES ARE GORGEOUS LOL.

I hope they are at the reptile expo that is coming my way April 3rd. These cages are modern classy and look affective lol.

So this is the weather we have to deal with up in NH =). Took this video when i was leaving to go to my girlfriends house thought you guys would like to see it!

Tons of turkeys!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AMBiEN22

OMG THESE CAGES ARE GORGEOUS LOL.

I hope they are at the reptile expo that is coming my way April 3rd. These cages are modern classy and look affective lol.

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I did a pretty complete review of these cages, I have two, but it didn't get moved over when the forum changed. If you take a look at my pictures you will see some of the pics from the review. Tubs are definitely easy to clean and you don't feel bad putting an extra hole or two in a tub to tweak your husbandry. If like me you have to make the enclosures attractive to satisfy your partner, a plastic cage is a great way to showcase your animal without dealing with all the cons of an aquarium. I think that my showcase cages are pretty easy to clean, way better than an aquarium. I just took a few pics of my setup for you to look at. Let me know if you have any questions about the showcase cages. https://picasaweb.google.com/craig.l...eat=directlink

I love they way they look and they seem pretty efficient from what i have been reading. Do you use UTH with your setups? CHE? Bulbs? or radiant heat panels?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AMBiEN22

I love they way they look and they seem pretty efficient from what i have been reading. Do you use UTH with your setups? CHE? Bulbs? or radiant heat panels?

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I cover the mesh where a heating lamp would go to cut down on ventilation, humidity is pretty low in my house. I use a UTH. The area specifically designed for a UTH is kinda useless. It has a raised area to accommodated a pretty think UTH where as the ones I use are no thicker than a few sheets of paper. I put a piece of foam core board under the UTH to keep it in contact with the bottom of the cage.