How often to try to feed a reluctant feeder?

Hey guys,

My new ball python has been a reluctant feed for the past month and a half. Right now I'm just playing the waiting game, but I was wondering how often I should try to feed him? Every day? Every other? Or weekly?

Thanks in advance.

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Originally Posted by Zargoon

Hey guys,

My new ball python has been a reluctant feed for the past month and a half. Right now I'm just playing the waiting game, but I was wondering how often I should try to feed him? Every day? Every other? Or weekly?

Thanks in advance.

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Once a week.

And I would try to describe your husbandry. It sounds like your ball python is stressed out about something that can be fixed.

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Originally Posted by blackcrystal22

Once a week.

And I would try to describe your husbandry. It sounds like your ball python is stressed out about something that can be fixed.

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Or it could just be a BP being a BP. Mine has been off feed for 2 weeksnow :taz:

Are you feeding F/T? If so try entiiiiiicing him...lol
Thaw out the feeder and set it near his cage/tub so he can smell it but dont let him see it. Get the aroma going and watch what he does. If it drives him crazy then go for it:gj:

Once a week is fine, if you want to get him eating again you could try live prey or scenting an F/T or live mouse with gerbil bedding. He could also be fasting because it is breeding season, but that depends on his age.

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Originally Posted by thedarkwolf25

Once a week is fine, if you want to get him eating again you could try live prey or scenting an F/T or live mouse with gerbil bedding. He could also be fasting because it is breeding season, but that depends on his age.

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I just moved to a new house and this week my male hasn't been too eager to eat. He is about 2 years old and had started to be a reluctant eater since the fall. What age do they reach maturity? I thought it was 3 years but maybe I'm wrong.

Here's what I posted on another thread about what's gong on with him:

So about a month ago I got my ball python Syntax.

He's awesome. However, he seems really stressed out. He moves all the time, he seems to try to escape his cage a lot, and when I feed him he has zero interest in his food and just tries to escape the box that I put him in. It's been about a month since he fed (when I got him).

I know that part of the problem is that he was previously feed live food, and I am currently trying to feed him frozen. I have followed what I've read online, use tongs to make it run around, I've even left him in the box with the rat for extended periods of time and when I come back he is still trying to escape. I eventually take him out because I'm worried for that so much activity is bad for him.

I change the water about every day, mist regularly, and monitor the temperature. I try to cover is already rather opaque enclosure with a towel to make it seem more secure.

Now when I bought this snake my friend also bought a ball python too. They both live in the same enclosure right now, but we are planning to separate them in a few months. I know that this can cause stress to the snake, but right now there isn't anything I can do about it.

So my question is: other than separating them, what can I do to try and minimize his stress? How long should I wait before giving him live food, taking him to the vet, ect?

Also it may be relevant to note that both of the snakes are juveniles. The other snake refused food at first, but has feed the last two weeks. We got them from the same breeder so that's what makes me think that he should be feeding by now, and that the rats are the right size.

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Originally Posted by Black_Shark

Or it could just be a BP being a BP. Mine has been off feed for 2 weeksnow :taz:

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I love ur pic lol!

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Originally Posted by Zargoon

Here's what I posted on another thread about what's gong on with him:

So about a month ago I got my ball python Syntax.

He's awesome. However, he seems really stressed out. He moves all the time, he seems to try to escape his cage a lot, and when I feed him he has zero interest in his food and just tries to escape the box that I put him in. It's been about a month since he fed (when I got him).

I know that part of the problem is that he was previously feed live food, and I am currently trying to feed him frozen. I have followed what I've read online, use tongs to make it run around, I've even left him in the box with the rat for extended periods of time and when I come back he is still trying to escape. I eventually take him out because I'm worried for that so much activity is bad for him.

I change the water about every day, mist regularly, and monitor the temperature. I try to cover is already rather opaque enclosure with a towel to make it seem more secure.

Now when I bought this snake my friend also bought a ball python too. They both live in the same enclosure right now, but we are planning to separate them in a few months. I know that this can cause stress to the snake, but right now there isn't anything I can do about it.

So my question is: other than separating them, what can I do to try and minimize his stress? How long should I wait before giving him live food, taking him to the vet, ect?

Also it may be relevant to note that both of the snakes are juveniles. The other snake refused food at first, but has feed the last two weeks. We got them from the same breeder so that's what makes me think that he should be feeding by now, and that the rats are the right size.

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can u afford a plastic tube? about 20-30 bucks will fix the two in one issue

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Originally Posted by serenewaves

I just moved to a new house and this week my male hasn't been too eager to eat. He is about 2 years old and had started to be a reluctant eater since the fall. What age do they reach maturity? I thought it was 3 years but maybe I'm wrong.

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If I'm not mistaken 2 years is sexually mature, I think that males reach it at around a year or so (not too sure). Since you just moved it may be the stress of the move that is why he is not eating, BPs can fast for any number of reasons but as long as they aren't losing weight they should be good.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zargoon

Here's what I posted on another thread about what's gong on with him:

So about a month ago I got my ball python Syntax.

He's awesome. However, he seems really stressed out. He moves all the time, he seems to try to escape his cage a lot, and when I feed him he has zero interest in his food and just tries to escape the box that I put him in. It's been about a month since he fed (when I got him).

I know that part of the problem is that he was previously feed live food, and I am currently trying to feed him frozen. I have followed what I've read online, use tongs to make it run around, I've even left him in the box with the rat for extended periods of time and when I come back he is still trying to escape. I eventually take him out because I'm worried for that so much activity is bad for him.

I change the water about every day, mist regularly, and monitor the temperature. I try to cover is already rather opaque enclosure with a towel to make it seem more secure.

Now when I bought this snake my friend also bought a ball python too. They both live in the same enclosure right now, but we are planning to separate them in a few months. I know that this can cause stress to the snake, but right now there isn't anything I can do about it.

So my question is: other than separating them, what can I do to try and minimize his stress? How long should I wait before giving him live food, taking him to the vet, ect?

Also it may be relevant to note that both of the snakes are juveniles. The other snake refused food at first, but has feed the last two weeks. We got them from the same breeder so that's what makes me think that he should be feeding by now, and that the rats are the right size.

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Is your cage not escape-proof?

There are two main things here that are stressing out your snakes. Having both in one enclosure and feeding in a separate bin.
However, with two in the same cage, you HAVE to feed in a separate bin to avoid cannibalism.

I'm sorry to tell you this, but no, there is no other method to reducing their stress. If the cage itself has good husbandry, isn't too big, and the temperatures are right; the stress is from being with the other.

Have you seen them 'cuddle' at all? This behavior demonstrates dominance and the top snake is being extremely dominating. This is very stressful.
If one gets a RI from being so stressed, they'll both get it. Double the vet bills.
Also, cannibalism is possible; especially if one is bigger than the other.

If price is the problem, get yourself one or two tubs with lock on latches and set up the snake in that. They cost around $5-10.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thedarkwolf25

If I'm not mistaken 2 years is sexually mature, I think that males reach it at around a year or so (not too sure). Since you just moved it may be the stress of the move that is why he is not eating, BPs can fast for any number of reasons but as long as they aren't losing weight they should be good.

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Thank you :) He's more active today and checking out the new place, the heat and humidity are where they were at the old house so we'll give him some time to settle in before I get too worried.

The cage is escape-proof, but that doesn't stop him from "pacing" around the cage and constantly trying every part of the lid to see if he can get out.

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Originally Posted by blackcrystal22

Is your cage not escape-proof?

There are two main things here that are stressing out your snakes. Having both in one enclosure and feeding in a separate bin.
However, with two in the same cage, you HAVE to feed in a separate bin to avoid cannibalism.

I'm sorry to tell you this, but no, there is no other method to reducing their stress. If the cage itself has good husbandry, isn't too big, and the temperatures are right; the stress is from being with the other.

Have you seen them 'cuddle' at all? This behavior demonstrates dominance and the top snake is being extremely dominating. This is very stressful.
If one gets a RI from being so stressed, they'll both get it. Double the vet bills.
Also, cannibalism is possible; especially if one is bigger than the other.

If price is the problem, get yourself one or two tubs with lock on latches and set up the snake in that. They cost around $5-10.

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I would just like to address a few things real quickly as he has PM'd me about the issue in the past.

First off, most people seem to jump to the conclusion that the snakes are indeed dominating one another and that "the top one is being extremely dominating." I mentioned this to him and learned something interesting... Syntax, the snake NOT feeding, is always on top. Interesting.

Secondly, I see a lot of people telling him off to just go buy another tub and that they only cost 5-10$. Well lets run through what a tub based setup costs roughly, for those of us without heated rack systems:

-Tub: 5-10$
-2 heat pads (hot/cold): 30-50$
-Thermostat: (minimum) 30-50$
-homemade/purchased hides: 10-20$
-water bowl: 5-10$
-Extra substrate: 5-10$

For someone who is in a tight spot in the money department this could be difficult to just fork up out of no where. Last time I checked, 85-130$ isn't just chunk change. Also, he mentioned the issue was space, he doesn't have house space to store an extra cage.

Perhaps someone could help him by adding a different method of reducing stress other than the suggested and already answered methods?

Someone mentioned that feeding him in a separate enclosure could very well be what's stressing him out. Well perhaps he should try placing the other snake in a box for a little while and feeding Syntax within his own enclosure?

Cheers!
-Fatal

Hi,

Just a quick side point about the price list.

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-Tub: 5-10$
-2 heat pads (hot/cold): 30-50$
-Thermostat: (minimum) 30-50$
-homemade/purchased hides: 10-20$
-water bowl: 5-10$
-Extra substrate: 5-10$

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You might be able to use the same thermostat to control both tubs if you make sure to buy the same wattage heat mats. It doesn't help with the cost of the heatmats though unless you change both to flexwatt ( it's quite cheap comparitively ).

Hides can be made out of overturned plant pot drip trays with a hole cut in the side - should be no more than $4 I think.

A ceramic dog waterbowl is probably about the price you mentioned unless you find one in a dollar store. They are also remarkably tip proof.

Newspaper makes a great substrate and is generally free or very cheap.

That brings it down to around $44 - $74.

Still not chump change but a little more reasonable with any luck.


dr del

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fataltix

I would just like to address a few things real quickly as he has PM'd me about the issue in the past.

First off, most people seem to jump to the conclusion that the snakes are indeed dominating one another and that "the top one is being extremely dominating." I mentioned this to him and learned something interesting... Syntax, the snake NOT feeding, is always on top. Interesting.

Secondly, I see a lot of people telling him off to just go buy another tub and that they only cost 5-10$. Well lets run through what a tub based setup costs roughly, for those of us without heated rack systems:

-Tub: 5-10$
-2 heat pads (hot/cold): 30-50$
-Thermostat: (minimum) 30-50$
-homemade/purchased hides: 10-20$
-water bowl: 5-10$
-Extra substrate: 5-10$

For someone who is in a tight spot in the money department this could be difficult to just fork up out of no where. Last time I checked, 85-130$ isn't just chunk change. Also, he mentioned the issue was space, he doesn't have house space to store an extra cage.

Perhaps someone could help him by adding a different method of reducing stress other than the suggested and already answered methods?

Someone mentioned that feeding him in a separate enclosure could very well be what's stressing him out. Well perhaps he should try placing the other snake in a box for a little while and feeding Syntax within his own enclosure?

Cheers!
-Fatal

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If you are tight on money, you should not be getting these animals in the first place. If you don't have the proper space or requirements to take care of one or both of those animals, then you should not have them. This is not a selfish hobby, you have to accept all responsibility for these animals.

If he doesn't have the extra money for a cage, what if one gets a RI from being so stressed? It wouldn't be the first time I've seen it happen, but that's TWO snakes getting antibiotics and vet visits to cure the RIs. There is a financial responsibility for these animals.

The idea of feeding is possible, and could help. But it will not solve the problem.

I don't know if you completely understand the concept of dominance. The snake whom is dominating can be just as stressed (if not more so) than the snake being dominated. For one, these animals are very simple creatures who act purely on instinct; thus their dominance behavior indicates stress of the other animal communing in their cage and that it's attempting to ward it away.

Also, both snakes will continually compete for the "best spots" in the cage considering security and heat. Would you want to share your single sized bed with another full sized adult?

If these animals were both eating properly and did not roam and act stressed constantly, then by all means take the risks of transmitting disease, breeding, and cannibalism. They're your animals. But one is not eating and that means that this set-up isn't working for these animals just as it has not for many others.

Some species of snake are capable of living together without too much stress or fuss (though there are still some risks) and ball pythons are just not one of those species. If they were, I would not be seeing this reoccurring issue over and over again.

I may sound harsh, but we're talking about having responsibility for lives other than our own. We should treat them with respect and allow them to thrive in our provided environment. Just surviving should never be enough.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blackcrystal22

If you are tight on money, you should not be getting these animals in the first place. If you don't have the proper space or requirements to take care of one or both of those animals, then you should not have them. This is not a selfish hobby, you have to accept all responsibility for these animals.

If he doesn't have the extra money for a cage, what if one gets a RI from being so stressed? It wouldn't be the first time I've seen it happen, but that's TWO snakes getting antibiotics and vet visits to cure the RIs. There is a financial responsibility for these animals.

The idea of feeding is possible, and could help. But it will not solve the problem.

I don't know if you completely understand the concept of dominance. The snake whom is dominating can be just as stressed (if not more so) than the snake being dominated. For one, these animals are very simple creatures who act purely on instinct; thus their dominance behavior indicates stress of the other animal communing in their cage and that it's attempting to ward it away.

Also, both snakes will continually compete for the "best spots" in the cage considering security and heat. Would you want to share your single sized bed with another full sized adult?

If these animals were both eating properly and did not roam and act stressed constantly, then by all means take the risks of transmitting disease, breeding, and cannibalism. They're your animals. But one is not eating and that means that this set-up isn't working for these animals just as it has not for many others.

Some species of snake are capable of living together without too much stress or fuss (though there are still some risks) and ball pythons are just not one of those species. If they were, I would not be seeing this reoccurring issue over and over again.

I may sound harsh, but we're talking about having responsibility for lives other than our own. We should treat them with respect and allow them to thrive in our provided environment. Just surviving should never be enough.

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Blackcrystal22 is right on the money with her advice. Why do you have these snakes if you can't provide them with their own seperate enclosures? Ball pythons do not cuddle because it is cute and they love eachother. It's no wonder you are having issues with these snakes. You know, I don't have a whole lot of money myself but I make damn sure that I am able to provide for the needs of my snakes. I have a vet fund set aside in the event that anything should go wrong with my animals. I also don't have my bp's housed together. You have been given some good advice, now whether or not you follow it is totally up to you.