she wont eat :(

I got my first ball python (my first ever snake) in september. she is a normal ball python she was about three months when i got her. The guy I got her from was a good breeder and told me she had eaten at least two times. but she has some problems. she had a bad shed but I toke care of that with the sticky in the general bp section. and she hasn't eaten since I got her I have offered her frozen thawed weanling mice the proper size. I have done all sorts of things to try to get her to eat spliting the mouses head, rubbing in tuna, getting the snake angry, just putting the mouse in her cage, turning off lights and leaving the room. everything. I'm considering using live mice instead but any other tips/ideas? also when after I thaw the mice their stomachs are ripped open........which is gross but I wonder why.

There may be something wrong with your thawing process if the bellies are ripping open consistently. It can happen occasionally, but should not happen frequently. Or, there might be something wrong with your mice. If they were thawed and frozen repeatedly, for instance. What is the condition of your frozen mice...and how, exactly, are you thawing them?

Also...can you describe your snake's enclosure? And how often do you attempt to feed? The more details you can give us, the more likely we'll be able to help you pin down the issue and fix it. In the meantime, here is some reading that might help:

From our Caresheet:

WHY WON'T MY SNAKE EAT?
In almost all cases, a ball python refuses to eat due to husbandry issues. Especially a young one. If your snake misses more than 2-3 meals (sometimes they will not want to eat while in shed) please check the following possible causes:

Lack of Security -- No hides, or hides that are too large or exposed (ie: half logs). They prefer dark, tight hides they barely fit into. Also, if the enclosure is too large, or too open (glass) or in a high traffic area with a lot of loud noise or movement. Another snake in the same enclosure can also cause serious security issues.

Over Handling -- Frequent intrusions into the enclosure, changes to the enclosure, and/or long frequent handling sessions can cause a shy snake to feel vulnerable and refuse to eat.

Improper Temps -- Temps that are too high or too low, or temps that fluctuate too much. Make sure you have an accurate and consistent read on your temps.

Improper Lighting -- Bright white lights shining directly into the enclosure, or 24 hour lighting can cause stress. Make sure there is some sort of day/night cycle.

Offering New Prey -- Changing prey species (ie: mice to rats) or methods (ie: live to f/t) can cause refusal. Such changes can be made, but may require patience and persistence.

Improper Offering of Prey -- Offering prey too frequently can do more harm than good. If a snake refuses, do not attempt to feed again for a week. Also, changing environments by moving to a feeding-box or removing hides and "furniture" can cause refusal in these shy snakes.

Prey Too Large -- Too large an item may intimidate a snake and cause refusal, or even a regurgitation if it is eaten. Also, if a ball python has eaten large meals in the past, it can cause a sudden an indefinite period of fasting.

Mites -- An external parasite common to snakes that must be treated and eradicated. A product called Provent-a-Mite (P.A.M.) is the safest and most effective method.

Seasonal -- Sexually mature ball pythons may fast for anywhere from a few weeks to a few months during their mating season (typically anywhere from late fall to early spring) especially if a sexually mature snake of the opposite sex is in close proximity.

Illness -- If all other possible reasons are eliminated, a vet check may be in order to look for internal parasites, as well as possible infections to the skin, scales, mouth or respiratory system.

Fortunately, ball pythons are extremely hardy snakes that can go for months (if necessary) of fasting without suffering any ill effects. This gives a responsible keeper plenty of time to figure out why the snake refuses to eat and get them on a regular, consistent feeding regimen.

When mine off feeds I give her an asf. It always works

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grits

When mine off feeds I give her an asf. It always works

---

LAST resort for a hatchling. When hatchilings to yearlings not eating its more due to husbandry rather food. Not to mention ASF is illegal in some states/Cities so not everyone can get their hands on them.

Post a picture of the setup as it is now.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RichsBallPythons

LAST resort for a hatchling. When hatchilings to yearlings not eating its more due to husbandry rather food. Not to mention ASF is illegal in some states/Cities so not everyone can get their hands on them.

Post a picture of the setup as it is now.

---

If it get them back on a regular feeding i dont mind using a last resort. Why/where are they illegal

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grits

If it get them back on a regular feeding i dont mind using a last resort. Why/where are they illegal

---

Georgia is only state i know they are illegal. I dont pay attention much to the laws about them but thats only one that pops up.

And they can be very destructive in the wild as they are chewers, and breed like crazy.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RichsBallPythons

Georgia is only state i know they are illegal. I dont pay attention much to the laws about them but thats only one that pops up.

And they can be very destructive in the wild as they are chewers, and breed like crazy.

---

Thanks for the heads up. I googled it and you cant have hedgehogs either in Ga.

What is an ASF?!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by thedarkwolf25

What is an ASF?!

---

African Soft Fur Rat. It's a species of rodent that is native to Africa and a natural prey item for much of the ball python's natural range.

Here's a thread with some pictures
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...fferent-colors

And it's part of an entire ASF forum you can browse through to learn more. :)

are asf's legal in california?

her cage is kept at a constant 80 degrees, has a water bowl, coconut substrate, and hide.
I try to feed her every weekend (once a week)
for thawing the mouse i just leave it to thaw then close to feeding I put it in a plastic bag then into a hot cup of water. as far as I know the mice have not been frozen then thawed again and again.

so far I have handled her about four times......when I was removing the stuck shed and then just randomly but stopped because I thought it may be stressing her. if it helps I will put a picture of her cage and the mice I'm feeding her.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by melrappmel

her cage is kept at a constant 80 degrees, has a water bowl, coconut substrate, and hide.
I try to feed her every weekend (once a week)
for thawing the mouse i just leave it to thaw then close to feeding I put it in a plastic bag then into a hot cup of water. as far as I know the mice have not been frozen then thawed again and again.

so far I have handled her about four times......when I was removing the stuck shed and then just randomly but stopped because I thought it may be stressing her. if it helps I will put a picture of her cage and the mice I'm feeding her.

---

does her cage have a hot spot of 90-94 degree?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by melrappmel

she is a normal ball python she was about three months when i got her. The guy I got her from was a good breeder and told me she had eaten at least two times.

---

3 months old and she had only eaten twice? If that's right sounds like you got a bad eater.

Try an appropriate sized live mouse.

Make sure the cage itself has solid sides, back and top (covered) and is in a low traffic area. Then make sure there are at least 2 hides (if not more) in different areas of the cage. Keep the temps and humidity correct, wait a couple of weeks for the snake to feel comfortable and safe, and then try to feed again.

No handling other then needed maintenance during that time. All of mine took frozen thawed right away with this method , even though they were fed live at the breeders.

Try live food if needed. If NOTHING works, you might have to take her to a vet, so they can try to check for internal parasites, etc...

My bet is, that snake never felt "safe" enough to eat...

Well i have a problem eater and i normally do not keep snakes so "young" so i do not have any smaller tubs that i can heat and in a rack.

So here is what i did.
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/1060/ballst.jpg

Week later he started to eat =)

I'll try adding another hide and making sure shes in a low traffic area and if she doesnt eat I supose I'll try feeding live

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Definitions

are asf's legal in california?

---

Nope... I found frozen ASFs at a shop in San Diego (for a particularly picky eater), but live ones are definitely illegal.

To the OP, I think it's time to try live mice! Most (at least half) of my BPs are live-only feeders, so that seems like the obvious solution to me. It's your decision of course, but I would suggest trying that soon... also try rats instead of mice, since some snakes prefer one over another.