Question on buying a "hood" for my BP's terrarium.(Advice please)

First of all...Hello!

I have gathered much useful information from this website in the past 4 months.(much more than the people at the various pet stores seem to know! :rolleyes:)

My boyfriend and I got our BP about 4 months ago and she(we both call her a "she" but it very well might be a "he"....we refuse to get our BP "sexed")lives in a 40 gallon terrarium and right after we got her I found out that they don't like the "openness" of that and so we cut up brown grocery bags and attached them to the back and sides of her terrarium(on the outside of course) so now she can only see out of the front. We have also went to various pet stores (sometimes multiple times in a day) until we were satisfied her environment was good. And the thing it is....it IS good.

I have read up and researched and I am confident she has a good setup....she even gets brita filtered pitcher water that has been warmed to room temperature everyday when her water is changed.

I think we are doing a good job with her.

She eats every week(frozen fuzzies) and I worried about her eating habbits when my boyfriend decided to get a ball python but she is a champ and only refused food her first week(and she was starting her first shed when we bought her) she has eaten every week since then.

She seems like a perfectly well adjusted BP from the hours and hours I have spent online researching every little thing. I am confident we have her set up well at this point.

THE PROBLEM NOW IS: We both hate the setup because it is not convenient at all!

She has a regular screen lid and 3 dome lights on the warm side:

Heat bulb
UVB 2.0 bulb(I know alot of people don't think this is necessary but we choose to have one)
infrared bulb at night to keep the temp up a few degrees warmer but also so we can see her.

all are on timers.

We also have to keep wet towels on the top of the cool side of her tank to keep at the optimum humidity levels and then we change those towels every day and a half so they don't stink(because i know if we can smell it it would be even worse for her) She goes through 5 towels a week and makes an extra load of laundry each week.

We take her out every night(except the night after she feeds) and after we take the clips off of the cage and lift the lid up the dome lights clink together and get jostled around and I think it makes them burn out faster.

We are already on our 3rd heat bulb and our 2nd. infrared bulb.

It's not just a pain in the butt to keep up with the towels and the dome lights on top of her terrarium but I feel we are going through the bulbs faster than they should normally last!


Sorry for rambling but now onto my questions...

would this work for a ball python:

http://i54.tinypic.com/2iaaixi.jpg

I think this would be much more convenient but there is also things that worry me about it and I don't want to waste my money buying it if it doesn't work out.(because it is only available to buy online)

Anyone have this type of hood for a ball python?

I worry she will burn herself on the bulbs because there is no "screen" separating herself from the light bulbs.

I worry it is too restrictive of air flow.

I worry it won't keep the humidity at optimum levels like the towels we use now.(and obviously there is nowhere to put a wet towel on this lid.)


She is our only pet and we love her(or him) but I just feel her tank setup shouldn't be as complicated as it is!

Anyone have anything to say about the slide top hood???

Hi,

I can't speak to the product as I have never used it.

But it would indeed need a screen to prevent the snake getting to the bulbs.

What kind of lid do you have at the moment ( I know you said regular screen but is it sliding etc ) - it would probably be easier to give that the tinfoil screen lid treatment.

Every one of those lamps actually makes your humidity problem worse so I would recommend getting rid of the UV and one of the others and replacing them with a red (or ceramic ) bulb that can be left running 24/7. On a thermostat or dimmer of course to control it. ;)

Nice improvising with the grocery bags too - I used aquarium backing for mine.

What you can try is insulating the sides, back and bottom of the tank to help keep the heat in.

You can use foamboard, cork sheeting or the foil coated insulation (reflectix? ).

That should cut down the need for heating letting you run the bulb at a lower level that won't impact humidity as much. :)

When you say F/T fuzzy are you talking about fuzzy rats? I ask because BP's generally can handle half grown mice straight out of the egg (size wise - don't feed snakes just out of the egg :P ).


dr del

I had a day and a night bulb on top of my tank. In addition to the red lighting, the night bulb was also a lower strength bulb so it let the temperature drop a little over night.

I've now got 2 UTH(one is small) that I use hooked up to a thermostat(temperature is based off the larger one. Because the smaller one doesn't produce as much heat, it keeps that side cooler, but they both work to maintain a normal temperature.

It's pretty much eliminated the need for bulbs on top of the tank. Once that's done, you would only need lights to allow you to see your snake better, so you would just need general area lighting that wouldn't have to be on top.

for the hundred+ that you would spend on that, I, personally, would go to rich at reptilebasics.com and get a proper snake enclosure. http://www.reptilebasics.com/2x2-cages/ . I had glass tanks and still have some for my geckos, they are a pain and most people move on from them as they aren't really suitable for most snakes. You can cover the top with tinfoil and duct tape (depending on the type of screen) but even that won't do a whole lot that I noticed.

Also, bump her up to small mice. Hatchling balls can take hopper mice (larger than fuzzies). Her meal should leave a small but noticeable lump in her belly.

Good luck.

Kudos for working so hard to provide an optimal environment for your snake!

I have to concur with what others have said and not recommend the hood advertised. She will indeed burn herself on those exposed bulbs eventually.

I can relate to the pain of having to remove all those lamps...I took care of a burm for awhile that was in a very large enclosure and it took three big lamps just to keep a bare minimum of temps in the winter. Huge pain in the patootie to remove those each time I had to get into her enclosure. And I do think all the jostling back and forth will shorten the life of your bulbs.

The good news is that you don't need the UVB bulb at all...ball pythons are nocturnal creatures and do not rely on the sunlight to produce the vitamins and minerals they need. They're able to get all of it from their prey. You also don't need different sources for light and heat...one infrared bulb should be able to produce enough heat...although depending on the ambient temps in the room the cage is in, you may need a second, smaller lamp on the other side to keep overall ambient temps at the right level. But the "daylight" you want is provided by the ambient light in the room already...and the heat lamp can also provide the nighttime illumination you want. Then there is no need for all the timers and not so many lamps to shift around.

Lastly....I absolutely must concur with Cinderbird...if you have the money to spend on a hood like that, you might seriously consider looking into specific reptile caging from Reptile Basics or another business like that. The cages are attractive and easily displayed, and can come with light and heat already installed SAFELY for your snake...and are built to maintain proper humidity levels with very little effort on your part. Then all you have to do is open the doors in the front to access your snake.

Thanks for all the replies. We are still unsure of what we are going to do at this point.

As for this:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cinderbird

Also, bump her up to small mice. Hatchling balls can take hopper mice (larger than fuzzies). Her meal should leave a small but noticeable lump in her belly.

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We started off feeding her individually pre-packaged fuzzies from petco when we first got her($2 per fuzzy) but then we found a petland store closer to us and they had much larger fuzzy mice for sale $1.09 a piece(or .99 cents a piece if you buy 3 at once) They were almost twice the size of the fuzzies at petco so we decided to hold off on the hoppers but now she is a bit bigger and she has 1 fuzzy left in the freezer so we will feed that to her this friday and then next week try a hopper. Usually when she eats we can see the "lump" as it moves down her body but then when it gets to her mid-section it isn't noticeable anymore so it is time to switch. I don't want to waste the fuzzy we already have though so she won't get to try a hopper until next week.

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And as for her tank...and the cage both cinderbird and JLC recommended....

We considered that but neither of us feel comfortable with it because there is no option to use a UVB bulb with it. From what I gather UVB bulbs for ball pythons seems to be a highly debated topic that there is no definitive answer to.

I feel more comfortable knowing our snake has a UVB bulb "just in case" and even if it may be useless to have one I don't see how having one could be detrimental to her considering the bulb is only on during the daylight hours. I just feel more comfortable having one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dr del

What kind of lid do you have at the moment ( I know you said regular screen but is it sliding etc )

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It doesn't slide. It's just a regular screen lid similar to this:

http://i52.tinypic.com/rcpuu1.jpg

my boyfriend ALMOST found a perfect solution tonight for our problems:


http://i54.tinypic.com/do8aj8.jpg


This would keep all the dome lights stationary when we take her out every night and it would be much easier than lifting the entire lid off and setting it on the ground and would be much more cost effective than buying her an entire new setup.(and then having the tank, and light fixtures we already purchased go to waste)

the problem is that the pivot lid that he found does not come in the size we need. At least not on the website he found it on:
http://www.bigappleherp.com/E-Z-Entr...c=2&category=4

We have a 40 Gallon tank. A lid like that would probably be the ideal solution for us if we could find such a lid that fits a 40 gallon tank. Sure I would still have to deal with her humidity towels but that really isn't a big issue. The issue is the lights getting jostled around and having to lift the entire lid off whenever we access her tank.


Does ANYONE know where we can buy a lid like this for a 40 gallon tank?

http://i54.tinypic.com/do8aj8.jpg

We would be eternally greatful!:bow:

Save yourself alot of headache in the long run, get a tub and a uth or as mentioned above or a proper snake enclosure.

Why do you refuse to have your ball sexed?

Ditch the UV lights, Balls don't need them...They just suck out your humidity and offer no extra benefit for your ball...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iCandiBallPythons

Save yourself alot of headache in the long run, get a tub and a uth or as mentioned above or a proper snake enclosure.

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I am starting to take a bit of offense to this as my boyfriend and I both feel we have given her a "proper" enclosure.(it's just not ideal for us)

If we put her in a rubbermaid bin or get her a "proper" enclosure.(at least it's proper in your eyes) we can't use a UVB bulb.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by coldbloodaddict

Why do you refuse to have your ball sexed?

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Because I have read they could get injured by it and really it doesn't even matter to us if our snake is a boy or a girl or a hermaphrodite like Cartman's Mom. Even if our snake comes out of the closet as a homosexual ball python we will love our snake regardless!:)


In all seriousness though...our snake's gender doesn't matter to us.

Quote:

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Ditch the UV lights, Balls don't need them...They just suck out your humidity and offer no extra benefit for your ball...

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We would need proof of this before ditching UVB! As I have already stated there seems to be general "debate" about this issue.

I am not trying to "fight" with people over this UV bulb issue. It's just that there is no concrete proof that I have found that UV bulbs are unnecessary.

From what I have read and heard I feel pulled in 2 opposite directions over the issue. I can't say what is right or wrong because I am not a "snake biologist". I think "better safe than sorry" though.(and that is why we want our snake to have a UVB 2.0 bulb)

Why are you asking for advice and then getting upset when people respond? Many people here have much more experience than you I'm sure, and looking at the stats for the users who responded, they most likely know what they're talking about.

With proper UTH setups, the lights are not needed. Also, I have a tank and a tub. Tanks are for looks, tubs are for functionality in my opinion. As long as your ambients and warm spot temps are adequate, you do not need a light. The only plus, would be that it looks kind of cool being able to see inside the tank. Other than that, they spend most of their time in a hide anyways.

Don't take offense to peoples comments, they're simply trying to help you.

I think the sliding hood is very nice (a bit expensive)but will still need wire screen around the bulbs to protect your snake from possible burns.


I have my female BP in a 100 gallon very thick glass fish tank.
there is a 10.5" waterbowl (105 ounces of water) and an 2.5' long arched driftwood she climbs on a lot.
the tank is located in a corner of the bedroom so two sides are against the walls.
I glued 3 hollow XL sized log "hides" together to increase the overall length, then one end is covered with Aspen bedding for privacy and enhanced warmth.
I have owned her since April 2010, however she is 50" long and weighs 5 lbs.
So I am guessing she is 3 years old aproximately.
She came to me in a 45 gallon "critter cage" with a 15 watt under tank heat pad.
The woman that gave her to me did not know the correct species, she told me it was a burmese....
So I am learnimg a lot.....I went to a reptile show to find out she is a BP.

The screened hinged lid is all they sell to fit a 72" by 18" tank, so that is what I have.
I have 4 undertank pads, 24 watts each to maintain temps in high 80's degrees on one end and high 70's at the water bowl.
I have the water bowl/ cool side covered with an old bath towel. (dry, not wet)
I have no heat lights at all, so opening the lid is a breeze.
Now I am reading a lot about how BP's hate large enclosures, However mine seems to cruise around the tank a lot some times she will lay around out of her hollow log hide, she is really comfortable in her tank.
I hope all this information helps, I think 1 overhead inferred heat lamp is enough, no light emission type is best.
even though I have no lamp ( just undertank heating) and my BP is content.
I feed her a large rat every 14 days (may have to extend the timing because she is quite thick bodied)

Harry

Truly, I'm not trying to be argumentative, but I am curious where you have seen this debate about UV light and ball pythons.

Here is a quote from two of the leading scientists in the world of herps:

"Ball pythons have no known light requirements. We have seen what appears to be perfectly healthy ball pythons that have lived for years in dark closets. Cage lighting is primarily for the keeper's enjoyment of his or her charges. In some cases, lighting also can be a satisfactory way to control the temperature in a cage."
Pythons of the World, Vol II: Ball Pythons

About the authors:
David and Tracy Barker are graduate biologists with more than 65 years of combined experience with reptiles and amphibians. They both have expansive herpetological backgrounds, including work in zoo herpetological collections, museum collections, and field research. Herpetoculture is the main interest of this husband and wife team, and their combined interests and experiences range from dart poison frogs to ridgenose rattlesnakes. David and Tracy own and manage Vida Preciosa International, Inc., one of the largest and most successful collections of pythons in the world.

Seriously, no one is trying to be critical or mean. We're just trying to help make things easier for you so in the long run, your snake-keeping experience is as rewarding as it possibly can be. But please understand that no one (that I know of...and I know a lot!) that keeps ball pythons is going to be able to come up with a satisfactory solution that includes UV lighting, simply because no one else considers that a needful factor in their husbandry care. It's kind of like asking folks how to make more room in the trunk of your car because you keep gallons and gallons of spare fuel, motor oil and antifreeze back there in the trunk...just in case you might need it on the road someday. No one is going to have a satisfactory answer to that because no one else is going to such extremes.

But, of course, in the long run, all these are your decisions to make, and I wish you the best of it, whatever you decide to do.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Old Sloppy

Now I am reading a lot about how BP's hate large enclosures, However mine seems to cruise around the tank a lot some times she will lay around out of her hollow log hide, she is really comfortable in her tank.

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The fact that ball pythons tend to prefer smaller enclosures over large ones is a general guideline and not a hard-and-fast fact. IF your snake were not thriving and was constantly refusing food or showing other signs of stress, the size of your enclosure might be something you'd want to look into. However, if she is eating well and thriving and you're able to maintain the proper environment in such a large tank, then that is terrific! Yours sounds like a beautiful enclosure. :)

I have never heard of a debate on UV light with ball pythons. They are nocturnal. Nocturnal animals do not require additional or supplemental lighting. (Think about it, where would an animal that is only out at night get its special light?) Animals like bearded dragons obviously need supplemental and special lighting. We know this because they can't properly absorb calcium and other vitamins and minerals when raised without proper lighting. Ball pythons (and other nocturnal critters) do not have this problem.

Balls don't benefit from supplemental lighting and if there is an effect on them it is almost always more harmful than beneficial; stress because of constant light exposure, burns, improper humidity, etc.

Not trying to rock the boat here, just offering my learnings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JLC

Truly, I am curious where you have seen this debate about UV light and ball pythons.

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The guy behind the cash register said so......(He,He,He)
He just wanted me to pry open my wallet a little wider. (He,He,He)

Harry

As previously stated, nocturnal animals do not require UV lighting. If they did, they wouldn't be nocturnal, they would come out during the day. Some captive balls do come out a little in the day, but not in the wild. So I don't really know why you're getting offended, because we do know what we're talking about.

Yea you will hear all types of things when you get any type of reptile. In fact sometimes when we pick up something from someone that is NOT a breeder we ask about husbandry....just because you hear TONS of crazy stuff...lol

Ball pythons natural habitat in Africa is termite mounds....tight dark...great humidity. The hunt at night as well. So not huge fans of bright lights. Now let me be the first to say...there are those weird ones that like to climb limbs.....love to be held etc. Just not typically the norm. But as far as enclosures...they like to feel a little tight in their hides and love the dark...(that is when they are most active).

Now I understand that having one snake you want to see them more often....they do have enclosures that are glass fronts and work really well to hold in the humidity. (without all the extra work to keep it up). Also it might be a good idea to get a couple of things....now this will make you life soooooooooooo much easier and less worry when making sure that your husbandry for your snake is spot on.

flexwatt or a uth.....(snakes digest through belly heat...best and safest way for them)
identical tight fitting hides2 (one on the cool side and one on the warm side)
a thermostat to control the heating device (this you do not want to skimp on and will save you many pieces of hair...lol...) I recommend spyder robotics thermostat but there are many others that are good as well. Without one of these your heating device can shoot up to 160 degrees in some cases. Recipe for disaster....they could burn to death...or overheat and end up with neuro issues.
last but not least a temp gun....not a neccesity but it is nice to have and accurate as all get out.


Most of this stuff you can get through reptilebasics.com if you are unsure you can call Rich (owner) he is amazing and tons of help.

Also you can get the thermostat at spyderrobotics.com



Oh yea.....this is just me but I clean everthing with Chlorohexadine....(reptile basics) it is a disenfectant that is super super good. They actually use this to wash wounds at vets. You dillute it and clean the cage...smells good...safe...sanitary. A bottle of it last forever.

Ok ...I will end the book now. lol:rolleyes: I get what you are saying...there is so much info out though it makes you crazy. I was in your spot just over a year ago. Trust me when I say as far as info and accuracy. To me.....this is one of the best sites and ppl really know their stuff!! (not just saying that cuz Im a mod...lol)




PS- we totally want pics girl!!!

Wow you come on here to ask question, people tell you the answers from YEARS of experience. (some people have 20+ years keeping snakes) And you are telling the BP.net community that we are wrong.
All that is being offered is help whether you like what we have to say or not it's the proper not "proper" way to house your snake.

Just to cover the basics:
Your cage is too big
You don't need a screen hood, a plexiglass sheet cut to size would work
You don't need a heat lamp
Your feeding needs to be every 7 days and a smaller meal
4 UTH can be fixed by insulating the sides of the tank (3 sides need to be covered anyway)
And that is just a few things..........

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Superpop

I am starting to take a bit of offense to this as my boyfriend and I both feel we have given her a "proper" enclosure.(it's just not ideal for us)

If we put her in a rubbermaid bin or get her a "proper" enclosure.(at least it's proper in your eyes) we can't use a UVB bulb.

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Seriously no one here is attempting to offend you by any means, this is a forum and when you ask a question you will get answers with the methods that others use, and have been using for years. Your main concern is that your animal is eating and thriving in the captivity you have provided, as mentioned some use huge aquariums and their animal thrives but would I say they are best for the majority of BP's out there? Probabley not. Let me correct you quickly if I may, its not whats "proper" in my eyes its what is best for my animals requirements, I mean you are the one debating UVB light fixtures for a nocturnal animal, and how injurious it is to sex your BP. I did'nt just start keeping and breeding reptiles yesterday FYI.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iCandiBallPythons

Seriously no one here is attempting to offend you by any means, this is a forum and when you ask a question you will get answers with the methods that others use, and have been using for years. Your main concern is that your animal is eating and thriving in the captivity you have provided, as mentioned some use huge aquariums and their animal thrives but would I say they are best for the majority of BP's out there? Probabley not. Let me correct you quickly if I may, its not whats "proper" in my eyes its what is best for my animals requirements, I mean you are the one debating UVB light fixtures for a nocturnal animal, and how injurious it is to sex your BP. I did'nt just start keeping and breeding reptiles yesterday that was over 20 years ago FYI.

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Oh food...shoot I forgot about that....

this was one of the hardest things for me at first. Go by the largest girth of your snake....that should be the width of the food.

Typically a young snake ...50 grams ..will take a small adult... They recommend when young and small a 5 day schedule. When adults a 7 day schedule. I have always went with a 7 day schedule but feed them as much as they want. IE-offer 1 approp. sized mouse....when finished if they want another I will let them have it. (I have some that only want one...others that are huge pigs...lol)

And don't be offended...no one is going off on you....but seriously some great advice given here

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MitsuMike

Wow you come on here to ask question, people tell you the answers from YEARS of experience. (some people have 20+ years keeping snakes) And you are telling the BP.net community that we are wrong.
All that is being offered is help whether you like what we have to say or not it's the proper not "proper" way to house your snake.

Just to cover the basics:
Your cage is too big
You don't need a screen hood, a plexiglass sheet cut to size would work
You don't need a heat lamp
Your feeding needs to be every 7 days and a smaller meal
4 UTH can be fixed by insulating the sides of the tank (3 sides need to be covered anyway)
And that is just a few things..........

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This sort of confrontational attitude isn't really helpful.

And to touch on the specific comments you made...

Your cage is too big
-- Not necessarily...some balls do just fine in larger enclosures and if that is what they prefer and they don't mind putting in the extra work it takes to maintain it, then there's nothing wrong with it.

You don't need a screen hood, a plexiglass sheet cut to size would work
-- There must be some sort of air exchange going on. A solid plexiglass top would be unhealthy, at best.

You don't need a heat lamp
-- You don't know that. If the home is kept cool, a heat lamp may be an essential supplement to keep the overall ambient temps up enough.

Your feeding needs to be every 7 days and a smaller meal
-- Smaller than what? It already seems like they may be feeding a little smaller than optimal...but since we can't actually see the snake or the prey item, we really can't judge that at all. All we can go on is the little bit of description they've offered.

4 UTH can be fixed by insulating the sides of the tank (3 sides need to be covered anyway)
-- This is actually a pretty novel idea. Never thought of it or seen it suggested before this. A person would need two different thermostats to make a set-up like this work...one for the heater UNDER the tank to create a warm basking spot...and a second for the three heaters on the sides to maintain a steady ambient temp. Not 100% sure if this would work in a really cool room, but it might be worth trying. :gj:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JLC

This sort of confrontational attitude isn't really helpful.

And to touch on the specific comments you made...

Your cage is too big
-- Not necessarily...some balls do just fine in larger enclosures and if that is what they prefer and they don't mind putting in the extra work it takes to maintain it, then there's nothing wrong with it.

You don't need a screen hood, a plexiglass sheet cut to size would work
-- There must be some sort of air exchange going on. A solid plexiglass top would be unhealthy, at best.

You don't need a heat lamp
-- You don't know that. If the home is kept cool, a heat lamp may be an essential supplement to keep the overall ambient temps up enough.

Your feeding needs to be every 7 days and a smaller meal
-- Smaller than what? It already seems like they may be feeding a little smaller than optimal...but since we can't actually see the snake or the prey item, we really can't judge that at all. All we can go on is the little bit of description they've offered.

4 UTH can be fixed by insulating the sides of the tank (3 sides need to be covered anyway)
-- This is actually a pretty novel idea. Never thought of it or seen it suggested before this. A person would need two different thermostats to make a set-up like this work...one for the heater UNDER the tank to create a warm basking spot...and a second for the three heaters on the sides to maintain a steady ambient temp. Not 100% sure if this would work in a really cool room, but it might be worth trying. :gj:

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Agreed, I was a bit harsh. But it was quite rude of someone to ask for help and then deny it but that is neither here nor there. The OP is here to learn so let me elaborate on the following that JLC got confused on.

As far as the plexiglass top instead of the screen it will work just fine. All that needs to be done is a few holes drilled in the lid like people do for the tubs and you get airflow and humidity.

Food wise, the prey being offered was a large rat. Most people feed mediums at max to their adult females. Large rats might be the width or the proper size but can get the BP fat and thus leading to an unhealthly life.

As far as keeping ambient temps up do the following along with the plexiglass lid:
You can go the UTH on the side walls route if this doesn't work first
Buy cork board and cut to fit the 3 sides of the tank and tape them on. This should help keep the glass from dissipating the heat from the tank out into the external environment. If this doesn't work invest in some flexwatt which is cheap and wrap the 3 sides of the tank in it (1 strip running along all sides). Then place the cork board on top of that. Set thermostat to the ambient temp needed and the flexwatt should heat the tank likewise.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MitsuMike

As far as the plexiglass top instead of the screen it will work just fine. All that needs to be done is a few holes drilled in the lid like people do for the tubs and you get airflow and humidity.

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True enough...drilling holes would make that work.

Quote:

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Food wise, the prey being offered was a large rat. Most people feed mediums at max to their adult females. Large rats might be the width or the proper size but can get the BP fat and thus leading to an unhealthly life.

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Not sure where you got the large rat from, as they specifically said they're feeding fuzzy mice...although the current fuzzies are bigger than the first fuzzies they offered? :confuzd:

I will agree with the general principle that just because an adult bp can eat a large rat doesn't mean that they need to. But I also believe that this issue falls under the "there's no single right way to do things" umbrella... a large rat fed less frequently than a medium rat (for instance) will not necessarily lead to an obese snake.

Quote:

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As far as keeping ambient temps up do the following along with the plexiglass lid:
You can go the UTH on the side walls route if this doesn't work first
Buy cork board and cut to fit the 3 sides of the tank and tape them on. This should help keep the glass from dissipating the heat from the tank out into the external environment. If this doesn't work invest in some flexwatt which is cheap and wrap the 3 sides of the tank in it (1 strip running along all sides). Then place the cork board on top of that. Set thermostat to the ambient temp needed and the flexwatt should heat the tank likewise.

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I really do like this idea of wrapping some flexwatt around the three sides of the tank and insulating it...so long as it's carefully controlled with a reliable thermostat. I may seriously consider this when the time comes that I may want a nice display setup for a creature that needs specifically warm temps.

I read this from the non OP and thought it was the OP

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Old Sloppy

I feed her a large rat every 14 days (may have to extend the timing because she is quite thick bodied)

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by iCandiBallPythons

Seriously no one here is attempting to offend you by any means

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I concur that most people in this thread are trying to help me but honestly I do feel I have been "attacked" by a few people...mostly by Old Sloppy and MitsuMike and now I feel I should respond to them:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Old Sloppy

The guy behind the cash register said so......(He,He,He)
He just wanted me to pry open my wallet a little wider. (He,He,He)

Harry

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I already stated I don't take the people who work at pet stores advice seriously and furthermore nobody at the pet stores have tried to force UVB bulbs up us anyway!

And even furthermore I doubt people who work at pet stores work on commission and that would mean their paychecks don't rely on what is sold!

Thank you for pretending I am some sort of naive idiot though! I really do appreciate that sort of sentiment!:rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by MitsuMike

Wow you come on here to ask question, people tell you the answers from YEARS of experience. (some people have 20+ years keeping snakes) And you are telling the BP.net community that we are wrong.

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I asked a question about a hood and I got anwers to it and I accepted the answers I was given and decided not to buy that hood. I never even asked asked about getting her a different enclose.

I also NEVER told people they were wrong either. Perhaps you should re-read my posts. I have been nothing but polite to people on here. I appreciate the responses I get from MOST people on here even if it seems we come to a "wall" on the UVB issue.

I however to do take offense to you though because not only have you created a lie about me: Saying I told people they were "wrong" when I didn't.

But you have also misread the thread and accused me of things I have not done.(rat's vs. fuzzies)

And you have also suggested things for my snake tank (Plexiglass lid) that have been dispelled by someone with more posts than you and ultimately that makes you you a total hypocrite for calling me out on not agreeing to everything I am told on here when you don't even yourself!

Also her tank is not too big. As JLC already stated it depends on the snake. Our snake has done just fine in a 40 gallon and is very active many nights crawling all over the place. She also doesn't refuse food.

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Originally Posted by JLC

Truly, I'm not trying to be argumentative, but I am curious where you have seen this debate about UV light and ball pythons.

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First I want to thank you because you have been nothing but nice and I don't mind debating and discussing things with people. I just don't like attacking type responses.

As for what I have read:

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UV Light Source: - Although there is a lot of controversy regarding the use of UV supplementation with snakes, many herpetologists wouldn't be without one. It has therefore been included here as a suggestion and the recommended type for snakes until further scientific research proves otherwise is a 2.0 UV light. This should be left on for 8 to 12 hours a day and replaced every 6 months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. Care should be taken however if your snake is albino as the light intensity could have detrimental effects on the eyes of your snake. Vitamin D3 supplements should not be used as well as a UV light.

http://www.redtailboa.net/forums/sna...ll-python.html

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I know this whole they do not need it crap, they are nocturnal, Blah Blah. Many breeders keep them with no lights what so ever with out any issues. I personally recommend UV light sources for all reptiles. UV-B helps to metabolize calcium and phosphorus and in the production of D3, yes even in snakes and nocturnal lizards.Exposure to UV-B lighting has shown an increase in 25-hydroxyvitamin D3 concentrations in corn snakes, so this is likely for other snakes as well. Hopefully more studies like this will be done. UV-A is stimulative activity and appetite, among other possible behaviors as ball pythons and many other snakes see in the UV light spectrum.

http://www.naturalsunscreen.org/uv-l...-ball-pythons/

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Place the cage in sunlight or provide the snake with a UV light bulb. Ball pythons need UV light to produce vitamin D. Small aquarium bulbs that fit inside terrariums are generally available in stores
that sell snake supplies.

http://www.ehow.com/how_4425581_take...ll-python.html

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In the wild, reptiles naturally need UV or at least a hot spot where they can regulate their body temperature. Ball pythons, like all snakes, are poikilothermic and can sometimes devolop health problems if not given proper care, so I wouldn't take a risk. Get UV lighting!

http://community.discovery.com/eve/f...8/m/1811987609

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And I can find many more. To me this just seems like a debated topic with no definitive answer and therefore I feel more comfortable having one.

I also don't like the cage that cinderbird suggested because I like having a infrared bulb so we can watch her at night.

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Anyway....

Does anybody know of somewhere I can buy a lid like this that fits a 40 gallon tank?

http://i54.tinypic.com/do8aj8.jpg

Or maybe a lid where half of the lid slides under the other half? I don't like moving the lights every night and taking off the entire lid to access her tank.

Not trying to change your mind about what you want, but have you seen the vission enclosures such as these http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/...th-extra-vent/ or these http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/.../visionariums/ if im not mistaken they have models that you can use a strip light and heat bulb. This way it allows you full access inside the enclosure without worrying about the lights. Im sorry I dont have any ideas about those lids

I appreciate you providing links and quotes to such things. Honestly, in all my years of doing this, I've never personally run across a single soul that insisted (or implied) that ball pythons needed UV light. Personally, I'll go with what the Barkers say about the matter, as they have more education AND more experience in this field than anyone on THIS site or on any of the others you mentioned.

I simply can't help you with that screen lid. It looks cool. But you may have to keep looking for an alternative. The cages mentioned as ideas for you to consider can be rigged with UV and with a night bulb if you really wanted to. If not those exact cages, then others like them. Or you might consider creating a custom screen top that you build yourself. Some wood for frames...screen...hinges....maybe a little stain to make the wood pretty. It wouldn't be very costly at all....just take some careful thought and measuring to get it right.

Good luck.

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Originally Posted by Superpop

I asked a question about a hood and I got anwers to it and I accepted the answers I was given and decided not to buy that hood. I never even asked asked about getting her a different enclose.

I also NEVER told people they were wrong either. Perhaps you should re-read my posts. I have been nothing but polite to people on here. I appreciate the responses I get from MOST people on here even if it seems we come to a "wall" on the UVB issue.

I however to do take offense to you though because not only have you created a lie about me: Saying I told people they were "wrong" when I didn't.

But you have also misread the thread and accused me of things I have not done.(rat's vs. fuzzies)

And you have also suggested things for my snake tank (Plexiglass lid) that have been dispelled by someone with more posts than you and ultimately that makes you you a total hypocrite for calling me out on not agreeing to everything I am told on here when you don't even yourself!

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You know what, just do what you want.
But just to make you feel stupid, if you would READ like you told me to do. My plexiglass idea was not dispelled b/c I told JLC how it would work and I quote "True enough...drilling holes would make that work." And if you think it doesn't work go tell that to some of the top breeders who do the same thing at shows, but you know more than them right?
So EVERYTHING that I suggested has been what? Oh yea..........right. So as for me not knowing what I am talking about..........keep thinking that. :colbert:
And as for telling the community we are wrong, it wasn't a direct actual telling but it is implied in VERY post you make. I know your type, you do crappy "research" that has no backing and now you think your the expert. But all we are doing to help with the rest of the setup (even though you don't ask for help we feel inclined due to the love we have for proper care of these snakes) and you blow ppl off.
It's just tough love, so keep acting all abused cuz you have been "attacked".
Jeez I wish Big Guns was back! :bow:

Personally I think there is no right or wrong way to do anything in the snake world. It's all just a matter of opinion, and how somebody likes doing something. :)

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Originally Posted by JLC

I appreciate you providing links and quotes to such things. Honestly, in all my years of doing this, I've never personally run across a single soul that insisted (or implied) that ball pythons needed UV light. Personally, I'll go with what the Barkers say about the matter, as they have more education AND more experience in this field than anyone on THIS site or on any of the others you mentioned.

I simply can't help you with that screen lid. It looks cool. But you may have to keep looking for an alternative. The cages mentioned as ideas for you to consider can be rigged with UV and with a night bulb if you really wanted to. If not those exact cages, then others like them. Or you might consider creating a custom screen top that you build yourself. Some wood for frames...screen...hinges....maybe a little stain to make the wood pretty. It wouldn't be very costly at all....just take some careful thought and measuring to get it right.

Good luck.

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Thanks.

My boyfriend and I are considering our options by rigging an entirely new cage for her or just making a custom lid for her ourself. We both like her tank though (and or snake seems to as well) so we are leaning towards custom screen top.

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Originally Posted by MitsuMike

You know what, just do what you want.
But just to make you feel stupid, if you would READ like you told me to do. My plexiglass idea was not dispelled b/c I told JLC how it would work and I quote "True enough...drilling holes would make that work." And if you think it doesn't work go tell that to some of the top breeders who do the same thing at shows,

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Fair enough. I missed that part.

Feel free to feel stupid yourself for IMAGINING that I feed my baby ball python full grown rats!:rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by MitsuMike

but you know more than them right?

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No. I never said I did either.

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Originally Posted by MitsuMike

So EVERYTHING that I suggested has been what? Oh yea..........right. So as for me not knowing what I am talking about..........keep thinking that. :colbert:

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You also told me her tank is too big and it's not so.........keep thinking that.:colbert:

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Originally Posted by MitsuMike

And as for telling the community we are wrong, it wasn't a direct actual telling but it is implied in VERY post you make.

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You're right....I totally implied I was right and others were wrong:

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Originally Posted by Superpop

I feel more comfortable knowing our snake has a UVB bulb "just in case" and even if it may be useless to have one I don't see how having one could be detrimental to her considering the bulb is only on during the daylight hours. I just feel more comfortable having one.

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and:

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Originally Posted by Superpop

From what I have read and heard I feel pulled in 2 opposite directions over the issue. I can't say what is right or wrong because I am not a "snake biologist". I think "better safe than sorry" though.(and that is why we want our snake to have a UVB 2.0 bulb)

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by MitsuMike

I know your type, you do crappy "research" that has no backing and now you think your the expert.

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I never stated or even implied I was right over the UVB issue so think again!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MitsuMike

But all we are doing to help with the rest of the setup (even though you don't ask for help we feel inclined due to the love we have for proper care of these snakes) and you blow ppl off.

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You have not helped whatsoever with your condescending nasty attitude. Do not include yourself with the majority of other people in this thread because YOU have not been helpful!

And I didn't blow anybody off on here either....until now!

MitsuMike,

Please do not reply to me anymore in this thread, the other thread I made about garter snakes, or any thread I make in the future on this forum. I don't like your attitude and I would greatly appreciate it if you would leave me the hell alone.

Thanks!