Help, egg still attached to female...

Hey

Checked on a female who was due to lay and she was in the process of doing so. She had 2 out and a 3rd one that was out but still next to her vent and it was all bloody. She has at least 1 more egg in her so I left her to it hoping it was nothing to worry about. Checked again 2 hrs later and the egg was in the same position (next to her vent) but she had moved. Just checked again a couple of hours later and she's passed another egg but the bloody one is still attached. Any ideas..?!?!

http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/...dyegg2-med.jpg

Sam

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Originally Posted by sam_b

Hey

Checked on a female who was due to lay and she was in the process of doing so. She had 2 out and a 3rd one that was out but still next to her vent and it was all bloody. She has at least 1 more egg in her so I left her to it hoping it was nothing to worry about. Checked again 2 hrs later and the egg was in the same position (next to her vent) but she had moved. Just checked again a couple of hours later and she's passed another egg but the bloody one is still attached. Any ideas..?!?!

http://gallery.pethobbyist.com/data/...dyegg2-med.jpg

Sam

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Since it has blood on it, and is attached, I wouldn't even try to do anything, I call VET on this situation. She must be in so much pain. Normally, with a "stuck" egg, one could use a thick needle and drain the egg and thus make it easier to pass..but those blood vessels and the "stuck" would deter me from trying that route with her.

Someone else may have another suggestion.

I'd definitely take this girl to the vet asap. I'm sorry I can't offer any other advice. It does look painful.

Good luck and please update us as soon as you find something out.

Send some private messages to some of the more experienced members.
Go to some websites of breeders and contact them with emails.
www.kingsnake.com will list plenty of breeders under "businesses". I'd try NERD first. New England Reptile Distributors.
Best of luck and keep us updated.
Thanks for sharing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jason Bowden

Send some private messages to some of the more experienced members.
Go to some websites of breeders and contact them with emails.
www.kingsnake.com will list plenty of breeders under "businesses". I'd try NERD first. New England Reptile Distributors.
Best of luck and keep us updated.
Thanks for sharing.

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I wouldn't have suggested that. People are busy, especially now, because it's breeding season. There is no telling how long that girl will have to stay like that while waiting for someone to get back to him just so he can save a few dollars.:rolleyes:

I would stop BSing with the forum, and call a vet.....it can't be good.

Jason

Please give us an update on how everything goes. Good luck,and I hope your girl is okay.

In this situation it would be best to take that snake to the vet. It looks extremely bad, and could be pretty painful to the snake, so make a vet appointment as soon as possible.

Looks like a prolapse and definitely needs vet attention. Hope she pulls through.

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Originally Posted by bsash

Please give us an update on how everything goes. Good luck,and I hope your girl is okay.

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Yes please keep us all updated, we want to know how this turns out.

I have to agree with every one else that replied to this.
If it were my snake, I would have scheduled a vet visit immediately.
Best of luck with her. Let us know the out come.

I would take her to the vet immediately, but I would also contact a few breeders anyway: people with really large collections have sometimes seen more ball python-specific breeding problems than even an experienced herp vet. And while they are doubtless busy right now, I think they'll want to help. The Barkers at VPI in particular have a history of talking people through unusual and life-threatening breeding issues.

Yes that is a prolapse, I don't want to make things worse, but she does need to see a vet asap. If she survives, she will never breed again. If it were me I would drain that egg asap, the other egg in her will need to be removed by the vet.

Do not try to tear the egg off the sack.

Here is what you do.

1) The female has laid the egg but the egg was stuck to the lining of the ovaduct. So, in essesence the female has prolapsed an egg. What you are going to need is a small pair of cuticle cissors and you are going to cut the egg out of the ovaduct. You'll want to make the cut in the clear part of the ovaduct and cut around the viens. Be careful not to cut the egg as the egg is good and will hatch if incubated. Make a 1.5 inch cut in the ovaduct at the tip of the egg and push it through. This part is easy.

2) Once the egg is out you'll want to manually remove the rest of the eggs in the female. There are 2 ways you are going to do this;

a) One egg at a time you are going to push on the belly of the female and move the egg to the vent. Very slowly you are going to push it out of the vent if the egg is not stuck. That means the egg will freely move when you push it in the female and won't go back into place it just goes where you move it. Once you get all of the eggs out, again one at a time, manually put the ovaduct back inside of the female and keep it as clean as possible. For those slow people this means pushing it back inside the female with your finger.

b) If the egg is stuck and won't come out do the following. This is for eggs that are stuck/twisted in the ovaduct. You can tell they are stuck because when you apply pressure to the egg to move it down to the vent it will spring back into place when you remove the pressure. In this case you'll want to go to a farm supply store and get a 14 or 16 gage needle and a 20-60ml syringe. You are going to jab the female through the belly directly into the stuck egg and drain as much liquid as possible. You may have to empty the syringe a few times so keep the needle part in the female and disconnect the syringe, empty the fluid and then hook it back upto the syringe and keep draining the fluid. Once that is done the female will pass the empty egg shell in a few days. I'm not sure why but they are always able to untwist a stuck egg that has been drained. If you don't remove the egg(s) the female will die. If more than one egg is stuck do all of the stuck eggs this way.

3) If the ovaduct is clean and undamaged you can place it back in the female. If it is all mangled or you accidently pushed out an egg that was twisted in the ovuduct by accident (it'll look like a sausage link) then just cut it clean off at the vent.

4) Place the female on antibiotics to ward off any infections. I'd recommend Fortaz. Most females will be fine afterwards but it doesn't hurt to be on antibiotics.

The female will be able to reproduce. I've had many females where I've had to remove eggs, drain eggs, and also cut out large portions of their ovaduct because of sausage linked eggs in the ovaduct. All go on to produce eggs year after year like nothing happened.

If you take the female to the vet she'll most like not know what to do and end up cutting open the female to remove any stuck eggs. This will most likely kill the female and render to infertile.

Good luck with your female.
Corey

:O:O:O Wow!!

I don't know if I would attempt that one! I would be too scared! I would have to go to the vet!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by corey woods

here is what you do.

1) the female has laid the egg but the egg was stuck to the lining of the ovaduct. So, in essesence the female has prolapsed an egg. What you are going to need is a small pair of cuticle cissors and you are going to cut the egg out of the ovaduct. You'll want to make the cut in the clear part of the ovaduct and cut around the viens. Be careful not to cut the egg as the egg is good and will hatch if incubated. Make a 1.5 inch cut in the ovaduct at the tip of the egg and push it through. This part is easy.

2) once the egg is out you'll want to manually remove the rest of the eggs in the female. There are 2 ways you are going to do this;

a) one egg at a time you are going to push on the belly of the female and move the egg to the vent. Very slowly you are going to push it out of the vent if the egg is not stuck. That means the egg will freely move when you push it in the female and won't go back into place it just goes where you move it. Once you get all of the eggs out, again one at a time, manually put the ovaduct back inside of the female and keep it as clean as possible. For those slow people this means pushing it back inside the female with your finger.

B) if the egg is stuck and won't come out do the following. This is for eggs that are stuck/twisted in the ovaduct. You can tell they are stuck because when you apply pressure to the egg to move it down to the vent it will spring back into place when you remove the pressure. In this case you'll want to go to a farm supply store and get a 14 or 16 gage needle and a 20-60ml syringe. You are going to jab the female through the belly directly into the stuck egg and drain as much liquid as possible. You may have to empty the syringe a few times so keep the needle part in the female and disconnect the syringe, empty the fluid and then hook it back upto the syringe and keep draining the fluid. Once that is done the female will pass the empty egg shell in a few days. I'm not sure why but they are always able to untwist a stuck egg that has been drained. If you don't remove the egg(s) the female will die. If more than one egg is stuck do all of the stuck eggs this way.

3) if the ovaduct is clean and undamaged you can place it back in the female. If it is all mangled or you accidently pushed out an egg that was twisted in the ovuduct by accident (it'll look like a sausage link) then just cut it clean off at the vent.

4) place the female on antibiotics to ward off any infections. I'd recommend fortaz. Most females will be fine afterwards but it doesn't hurt to be on antibiotics.

The female will be able to reproduce. I've had many females where i've had to remove eggs, drain eggs, and also cut out large portions of their ovaduct because of sausage linked eggs in the ovaduct. All go on to produce eggs year after year like nothing happened.

If you take the female to the vet she'll most like not know what to do and end up cutting open the female to remove any stuck eggs. This will most likely kill the female and render to infertile.

Good luck with your female.
Corey

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wow, u have alot of info. I really hope this helps

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Corey Woods

Here is what you do.

1) The female has laid the egg but the egg was stuck to the lining of the ovaduct. So, in essesence the female has prolapsed an egg. What you are going to need is a small pair of cuticle cissors and you are going to cut the egg out of the ovaduct. You'll want to make the cut in the clear part of the ovaduct and cut around the viens. Be careful not to cut the egg as the egg is good and will hatch if incubated. Make a 1.5 inch cut in the ovaduct at the tip of the egg and push it through. This part is easy.

2) Once the egg is out you'll want to manually remove the rest of the eggs in the female. There are 2 ways you are going to do this;

a) One egg at a time you are going to push on the belly of the female and move the egg to the vent. Very slowly you are going to push it out of the vent if the egg is not stuck. That means the egg will freely move when you push it in the female and won't go back into place it just goes where you move it. Once you get all of the eggs out, again one at a time, manually put the ovaduct back inside of the female and keep it as clean as possible. For those slow people this means pushing it back inside the female with your finger.

b) If the egg is stuck and won't come out do the following. This is for eggs that are stuck/twisted in the ovaduct. You can tell they are stuck because when you apply pressure to the egg to move it down to the vent it will spring back into place when you remove the pressure. In this case you'll want to go to a farm supply store and get a 14 or 16 gage needle and a 20-60ml syringe. You are going to jab the female through the belly directly into the stuck egg and drain as much liquid as possible. You may have to empty the syringe a few times so keep the needle part in the female and disconnect the syringe, empty the fluid and then hook it back upto the syringe and keep draining the fluid. Once that is done the female will pass the empty egg shell in a few days. I'm not sure why but they are always able to untwist a stuck egg that has been drained. If you don't remove the egg(s) the female will die. If more than one egg is stuck do all of the stuck eggs this way.

3) If the ovaduct is clean and undamaged you can place it back in the female. If it is all mangled or you accidently pushed out an egg that was twisted in the ovuduct by accident (it'll look like a sausage link) then just cut it clean off at the vent.

4) Place the female on antibiotics to ward off any infections. I'd recommend Fortaz. Most females will be fine afterwards but it doesn't hurt to be on antibiotics.

The female will be able to reproduce. I've had many females where I've had to remove eggs, drain eggs, and also cut out large portions of their ovaduct because of sausage linked eggs in the ovaduct. All go on to produce eggs year after year like nothing happened.

If you take the female to the vet she'll most like not know what to do and end up cutting open the female to remove any stuck eggs. This will most likely kill the female and render to infertile.

Good luck with your female.
Corey

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Amazing information but ewwwwwwww!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Corey Woods

Here is what you do.

1) The female has laid the egg but the egg was stuck to the lining of the ovaduct. So, in essesence the female has prolapsed an egg. What you are going to need is a small pair of cuticle cissors and you are going to cut the egg out of the ovaduct. You'll want to make the cut in the clear part of the ovaduct and cut around the viens. Be careful not to cut the egg as the egg is good and will hatch if incubated. Make a 1.5 inch cut in the ovaduct at the tip of the egg and push it through. This part is easy.

2) Once the egg is out you'll want to manually remove the rest of the eggs in the female. There are 2 ways you are going to do this;

a) One egg at a time you are going to push on the belly of the female and move the egg to the vent. Very slowly you are going to push it out of the vent if the egg is not stuck. That means the egg will freely move when you push it in the female and won't go back into place it just goes where you move it. Once you get all of the eggs out, again one at a time, manually put the ovaduct back inside of the female and keep it as clean as possible. For those slow people this means pushing it back inside the female with your finger.

b) If the egg is stuck and won't come out do the following. This is for eggs that are stuck/twisted in the ovaduct. You can tell they are stuck because when you apply pressure to the egg to move it down to the vent it will spring back into place when you remove the pressure. In this case you'll want to go to a farm supply store and get a 14 or 16 gage needle and a 20-60ml syringe. You are going to jab the female through the belly directly into the stuck egg and drain as much liquid as possible. You may have to empty the syringe a few times so keep the needle part in the female and disconnect the syringe, empty the fluid and then hook it back upto the syringe and keep draining the fluid. Once that is done the female will pass the empty egg shell in a few days. I'm not sure why but they are always able to untwist a stuck egg that has been drained. If you don't remove the egg(s) the female will die. If more than one egg is stuck do all of the stuck eggs this way.

3) If the ovaduct is clean and undamaged you can place it back in the female. If it is all mangled or you accidently pushed out an egg that was twisted in the ovuduct by accident (it'll look like a sausage link) then just cut it clean off at the vent.

4) Place the female on antibiotics to ward off any infections. I'd recommend Fortaz. Most females will be fine afterwards but it doesn't hurt to be on antibiotics.

The female will be able to reproduce. I've had many females where I've had to remove eggs, drain eggs, and also cut out large portions of their ovaduct because of sausage linked eggs in the ovaduct. All go on to produce eggs year after year like nothing happened.

If you take the female to the vet she'll most like not know what to do and end up cutting open the female to remove any stuck eggs. This will most likely kill the female and render to infertile.

Good luck with your female.
Corey

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WOW:O I don't know about you guys, but I'm saving this info for when I start breeding.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Corey Woods

Here is what you do.

1) The female has laid the egg but the egg was stuck to the lining of the ovaduct. So, in essesence the female has prolapsed an egg. What you are going to need is a small pair of cuticle cissors and you are going to cut the egg out of the ovaduct. You'll want to make the cut in the clear part of the ovaduct and cut around the viens. Be careful not to cut the egg as the egg is good and will hatch if incubated. Make a 1.5 inch cut in the ovaduct at the tip of the egg and push it through. This part is easy.

2) Once the egg is out you'll want to manually remove the rest of the eggs in the female. There are 2 ways you are going to do this;

a) One egg at a time you are going to push on the belly of the female and move the egg to the vent. Very slowly you are going to push it out of the vent if the egg is not stuck. That means the egg will freely move when you push it in the female and won't go back into place it just goes where you move it. Once you get all of the eggs out, again one at a time, manually put the ovaduct back inside of the female and keep it as clean as possible. For those slow people this means pushing it back inside the female with your finger.

b) If the egg is stuck and won't come out do the following. This is for eggs that are stuck/twisted in the ovaduct. You can tell they are stuck because when you apply pressure to the egg to move it down to the vent it will spring back into place when you remove the pressure. In this case you'll want to go to a farm supply store and get a 14 or 16 gage needle and a 20-60ml syringe. You are going to jab the female through the belly directly into the stuck egg and drain as much liquid as possible. You may have to empty the syringe a few times so keep the needle part in the female and disconnect the syringe, empty the fluid and then hook it back upto the syringe and keep draining the fluid. Once that is done the female will pass the empty egg shell in a few days. I'm not sure why but they are always able to untwist a stuck egg that has been drained. If you don't remove the egg(s) the female will die. If more than one egg is stuck do all of the stuck eggs this way.

3) If the ovaduct is clean and undamaged you can place it back in the female. If it is all mangled or you accidently pushed out an egg that was twisted in the ovuduct by accident (it'll look like a sausage link) then just cut it clean off at the vent.

4) Place the female on antibiotics to ward off any infections. I'd recommend Fortaz. Most females will be fine afterwards but it doesn't hurt to be on antibiotics.

The female will be able to reproduce. I've had many females where I've had to remove eggs, drain eggs, and also cut out large portions of their ovaduct because of sausage linked eggs in the ovaduct. All go on to produce eggs year after year like nothing happened.

If you take the female to the vet she'll most like not know what to do and end up cutting open the female to remove any stuck eggs. This will most likely kill the female and render to infertile.

Good luck with your female.
Corey

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Great info! That should definitely be a sticky.

Sounds like he might know a thing or two about it.:bow: Hope I never have to go through that.

I'm late getting to this thread I know...

But if it were me I'd print out the post by Corey AND rush off to the vet with the printed post in hand. That way you are covered either way and if the vet opts to go the route Corey suggests then you have a vet doing the proceedures and not yourself.

"You are going to jab the female through the belly directly into the stuck egg and drain as much liquid as possible" doesn't sound like something I would want to tackle. Corey's adept to it I'm sure...I'm not.

Excellent post Corey. That may be some of the best advice given in quite some time.

i'd like to give Corey Woods props for his very informative post.
for those of you that don't know Corey or doubt his methods i can say this.
although i haven't personally dealt with him yet, i have spoken and dealt with many people who have dealt with him and every one of them have told me that he is one of the top breeders north of the border.
john

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Originally Posted by muddoc

Excellent post Corey. That may be some of the best advice given in quite some time.

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I agree! I'm glad Corey is a part of this site!

I also agree with Corey about not even bothering going to the vet because they usually know nothing about reptiles. I went to a "reptile specialist" in our area, specifically in ball pythons, and he told me to sex a ball python you measure the spurs. Needless to say, if I ever run into a problem like that, it's up to me.

Good luck to the OP!

Any updates?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bads15

i'd like to give Corey Woods props for his very informative post.
for those of you that don't know Corey or doubt his methods i can say this.
although i haven't personally dealt with him yet, i have spoken and dealt with many people who have dealt with him and every one of them have told me that he is one of the top breeders north of the border.
john

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I would just like to say that all my dealings with Corey Woods in the past have surpassed any and ALL expectations! he is a great guy and Canada is definatly glad to have him! Plus my little pied male is from his stock and has gotten MANY MANY compliments!

I am also interested in hearing updates on the poor girl... I am saving this post incase this ever happens to me.

Britany Bell
Alberta, Canada

My sole objection to this advice is that it amounts to surgery done without anaesthesia, which is a horrifying concept.

about the antibiotics, does one just go to a vet and tell them, "hey look, this happened to one of my snakes, can you prescribe me some of this certain medicine..." or what? i have wondered about that, how one gets antibiotics for their reptiles, and this seems like the perfect place to get the info. and that advice had my jaw dropped. glad corey's on here!!

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Originally Posted by WingedWolfPsion

My sole objection to this advice is that it amounts to surgery done without anaesthesia, which is a horrifying concept.

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Maybe so to some, but people like corey have been doing this long enough to know what needs to be done. Even an experienced exotics vet will likely have never seen anything like this before. Like he said, a vet would most likely go about it all wrong. Unless you have a great exotics vet you could take the snake and a printed copy of the instructions to, who would then do exactly that.

Another thing you need to consider is that it is very dangerous to give reptiles any anaesthesia. They often will not come out of it. This is how zoos take care of issue like this as well.

Would you say it was wrong for the breeder here that stitched up the hatchling which had a hole in its belly and the heart was sticking out? That baby lived due to that breeders quick thinking and some great advice gotten right here.

My local (and well respected) reptile vet clinic back home in California told me that my +/- 1000 gram was too small to probe safely. This is why I want to get into the field, there is a shocking lack of practical knowledge out there. You can make your appointments in 6 years, satisfaction guaranteed, lol.

Cheers,
-Matt

Corey's post is superb.

Any updates???

Very late getting in on the thread, but as soon as I saw the pic, my first thought was to PM the OP to tell them to contact Corey.

Corey walked me through a really stressful situation with a baby BP I had that came out of the egg with her umbilicus wrapped around her so that she could not absorb her yolk.

The snake died due to my actions, NOT due to the advice I was given (I popped her out of the egg and she died from hardbelly).

He posts rarely, but posts with amazing clarity and intent.

Bruce

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Originally Posted by Foschi Exotic Serpents

Would you say it was wrong for the breeder here that stitched up the hatchling which had a hole in its belly and the heart was sticking out? That baby lived due to that breeders quick thinking and some great advice gotten right here.

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Great post. Also, just a small bit of clarification about the above statemtn. I actually did bring the girl to the vet, and they refused to due the surgery. So, in that case, I had no other option (except to bring her to LSU Vet Hospital, and it was late on a Saturday).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Foschi Exotic Serpents

Maybe so to some, but people like corey have been doing this long enough to know what needs to be done. Even an experienced exotics vet will likely have never seen anything like this before. Like he said, a vet would most likely go about it all wrong. Unless you have a great exotics vet you could take the snake and a printed copy of the instructions to, who would then do exactly that.

Another thing you need to consider is that it is very dangerous to give reptiles any anaesthesia. They often will not come out of it. This is how zoos take care of issue like this as well.

Would you say it was wrong for the breeder here that stitched up the hatchling which had a hole in its belly and the heart was sticking out? That baby lived due to that breeders quick thinking and some great advice gotten right here.

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I'm saying that it's cruel to do surgery without anaesthesia or even painkillers. I'm not saying anything about right or wrong. I'm not saying there's even a clear choice here, but I definitely think that alternatives should be explored, given the amount of pain such a procedure must surely cause.
If you were the one having surgery, would you elect to go without anaesthesia because it's safer? Even if the anaesthesia posed a significant danger? Just a thought.

Sorry for the delay in updating you all.

Unfortunately I didn't see Corey's response until this morning. The good news is I was told by my vet to leave her until later on in the week before bringing her in to surgically remove the eggs so nothing has been done.
On Sunday I removed the egg that was attached much in the way corey described but rather than cutting the membrane I used damp cotton buds to carefully peel it off the egg. I then pushed the ovaduct back inside the female. Nothing happened on Monday but this morning she had managed to pass one of the eggs which was right next to her vent. The other 2 eggs are quite a way up from her vent and so I have just tried massaging them down. Unfortunately I could only get them to move 1/2" or so no matter how long I kept going. So it looks like I'm going to have to drain the eggs. I haven't decided whether I'm going to go for it myself or take her to the vet to do. Too late now to do either today so will get it sorted tomorrow.

A big thank you to Corey for his advice! :gj:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WingedWolfPsion

I'm saying that it's cruel to do surgery without anaesthesia or even painkillers. I'm not saying anything about right or wrong. I'm not saying there's even a clear choice here, but I definitely think that alternatives should be explored, given the amount of pain such a procedure must surely cause.
If you were the one having surgery, would you elect to go without anaesthesia because it's safer? Even if the anaesthesia posed a significant danger? Just a thought.

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I completely understand what you are saying. I think the "chioce" lies in the emergency status of the situation. Cutting the oviduct shouldnt cause pain as there shouldnt be nerve endings in that membrain. Using a needle to drain eggs may be annoying but that isnt surgery. Coreys post was meant to prevent surgery. I think the thing that would annoy the snake the most would simply be trying to push eggs out of it. I not sure you can even give a snake pain killers. I have no information on that.

If it were my snake or hatchling that had a ife threatening problem like that, I would definately need to assess how serious it was. It may not be the most painfree way of doing whatever needs to be done but if it saves my snakes life Id do it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WingedWolfPsion

I'm saying that it's cruel to do surgery without anaesthesia or even painkillers. I'm not saying anything about right or wrong. I'm not saying there's even a clear choice here, but I definitely think that alternatives should be explored, given the amount of pain such a procedure must surely cause.
If you were the one having surgery, would you elect to go without anaesthesia because it's safer? Even if the anaesthesia posed a significant danger? Just a thought.

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I agree. When a women gives birth, she has the option to use a numbing agent, and a lot of the times people choose to take the agent in the spine,(if there was something wrong with this perticular agent they wouldn't offer it) nothing going to affect the already alleged prolapsed egg, right? I chose to have it myself, it was a more calming thing to deal with. And these snakes of ours can't use words to describe the pain there in, (plus you never know this snake can go crazy and out of control for someone whos never had to do this paticular procedure)so I suggest takin it to the vet with this post printed out, that way the "experienced" vet can prescribe a numbing agent to help the animal. Like wolf said if you were the one having this awful, painful, surgery would you choose the anastetic or not? anything to subdue the pain would be the route I took! GOOD LUCK TO THE OP!!!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sam_b

Sorry for the delay in updating you all.

Unfortunately I didn't see Corey's response until this morning. The good news is I was told by my vet to leave her until later on in the week before bringing her in to surgically remove the eggs so nothing has been done.
On Sunday I removed the egg that was attached much in the way corey described but rather than cutting the membrane I used damp cotton buds to carefully peel it off the egg. I then pushed the ovaduct back inside the female. Nothing happened on Monday but this morning she had managed to pass one of the eggs which was right next to her vent. The other 2 eggs are quite a way up from her vent and so I have just tried massaging them down. Unfortunately I could only get them to move 1/2" or so no matter how long I kept going. So it looks like I'm going to have to drain the eggs. I haven't decided whether I'm going to go for it myself or take her to the vet to do. Too late now to do either today so will get it sorted tomorrow.

A big thank you to Corey for his advice! :gj:

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well you hear stories about laying mothers who pass one egg or 2 and days or weeks later they pass the rest. For example, one of my females laid one egg and 2 nights later woke up in the morning and saw the rest of her 7 egg clutch. So I think you should give it a day or 2 and see if she passes the rest on her own. But then again due to her awful experience maybe draining would be the best alternative. Best of luck!

This is interesting. For venomous snakes specifically, but the whole site is very interesting.
http://www.snakegetters.com/demo/vet/anesthesia.html


In any case, good luck with your girl :(

Cory Woods isn't giving you information on what to try, but on his experience on what to do. As he stated for you slow people, he has already done this more than once and the female not only survived but was able to breed for years after without any effects of this procedure. I can understand if someone doesn't feel that they can do this. But I wouldn't let a vet do anything else that wasn't in this statement that Cory provided us with.

I breed ball pythons and this is my hobby with my own collection of them. I for one am very thankful that a breeder with the knowledge of Cory Woods, took the time to go into detail on what to do, most reptile vets don't even have this knowledge.

Cory Woods, THANK YOU!

Don

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Originally Posted by don15681

Cory Woods isn't giving you information on what to try, but on his experience on what to do. As he stated for you slow people, he has already done this more than once and the female not only survived but was able to breed for years after without any effects of this procedure. I can understand if someone doesn't feel that they can do this. But I wouldn't let a vet do anything else that wasn't in this statement that Cory provided us with.

I breed ball pythons and this is my hobby with my own collection of them. I for one am very thankful that a breeder with the knowledge of Cory Woods, took the time to go into detail on what to do, most reptile vets don't even have this knowledge.

Cory Woods, THANK YOU!

Don

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Disagreeing with some of what Cory wrote does not make one "slow." Don't be rude. The general consensus is that this is a helpful, and insightful bit of information. Discussion exploring other options or procedures for the general benefit of the animals should be welcomed, not shunned. I'm not meaning to call you out, but there's no need for name calling.

Cheers,
-Matt

I'm glad to hear you were able to get the stuck egg free, Sam. Let us know how it turns out with the eggs still inside her oviduct, huh?

I think you have waited way too long to help her!!!
I hope she's gonna make it, and praying she doesn't have too much pain!!!!

Hi, I worked as a vet tech for 11 yrs. We worked on everything form live stock to exotics even fish. Sometimes there is no time for anesthetic.
and sometimes the chance of it killing the animal is greater then the the pain caused by what needs to be done, and that is the reality behind the doors of a vet hospital. In an emergency situation a Dr will start working on the animal before the tech has a traich tube down its throat.

I don't know if your reply is to me,
But I wasn't talking about anesthetics.
But if that was my animall and this would happen at night, the next morning there would be help for her, by a vet or by an experienced person and I would never let it take this many days.

Last week I had a guttata who's eggs where stuck and that was at night, the next day I called at 08.00 in the morning and the eggs were helped out with help of a paravetinair.

I just don't think its fair to let your animall suffer for that long, thats all;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by saskia

I don't know if your reply is to me,
But I wasn't talking about anesthetics.
But if that was my animall and this would happen at night, the next morning there would be help for her, by a vet or by an experienced person and I would never let it take this many days.

Last week I had a guttata who's eggs where stuck and that was at night, the next day I called at 08.00 in the morning and the eggs were helped out with help of a paravetinair.

I just don't think its fair to let your animall suffer for that long, thats all;)

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No my reply wasnt to you. I was by no means saying that help should not be sought from a vet. My response was to WingedWolfPsion stating that anesthetics are not always used when dealing with emergency situations.

Hi,

Just to point out the OP had dealt with the problem long before he came back on here to post the update.

He was also recieving help from a vet via telephone and from another forum here in the UK.

He simply forgot to check back.


dr del

ok I'm glad to hear that...