BP n00b with some questions

Hey everyone, I have geckos, frogs, turtles, and fish, and I want to get into ball pythons :D

Although I do have a few questions.

1) I've heard that lots of people keep their ball pythons in 41 quart bins. What are the dimensions of these bins? Also, for me I will only be keeping a few ball pythons, so space really isn't an issue, so I was thinking of getting a bin a little larger. What would be good dimensions?

2) How much of the bin should the heat mat/heat tape cover? With geckos I always cover 1/3 of the bin, but since ball pythons are bigger, I was thinking maybe 2/3?

3) What are some cheaper ball python morphs? I'm only 14, and I don't make much money, so cheaper the better. I could have a CB normal shipped to my door for 90, but what are some other cool, cheap morphs?


Thanks for your help and I am looking forward to getting involved with these awesome animals! :snake:

1) It is not necessary to keep them in a larger enclosure, but if you did, don't make it too much bigger as they begin to get stressed in very large enclosures as they are used to very tight hiding spots in nature. You'll have to do the math for dimensions, but they are only 6-8 inches high.
2)The heat should only cover 1/3 of the bottom. They need to be able to get off the heat if they want. The difference between them and geckos is not what ratio of the bin has the heater underneath, but the size of the bin.
3)You'll have to just do your research for the area you live in. Personally, I really like normals. Spiders, pastels and yellowbellys are usually on the cheaper side although if you are worried about having enough money, make sure that you are prepared to pay hundreds of dollars in vet bills at any moment. You don't want your finances threatening the lives of your snakes.

Good luck.

So what size bin should I keep him in? It will be a male, by the way.

32 to 41 qts. They are also cheap enough that you can start with a smaller one and buy a larger one in a couple years when it gets bigger. There should be some posts on tub size around here if you do a search.

Ok, I will be ordering a small one, and I do have a 16 qt lying around, I think I will put it in that and eventually upgrade into a 42 quart.

Also, I've read that ball pythons should have hides, but I see in many videos that people have a water dish and that's it. What is the right thing to do?

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Originally Posted by Fish

Ok, I will be ordering a small one, and I do have a 16 qt lying around, I think I will put it in that and eventually upgrade into a 42 quart.

Also, I've read that ball pythons should have hides, but I see in many videos that people have a water dish and that's it. What is the right thing to do?

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For the most part people with racks dont use hides. Just get 2 tight fitting hides. This way he can have something touching all sides if he likes and feels secure. Also i would start with like a 15q for juv. Then move up

Ya, especially for a new bp keeper, try to plan for 2 hides. Racks are very secure for a ball python already, so it kind of acts like one giant hide. Even if you have a very "rack like" set-up with the tubs, it will be difficult for you to tell if it is working for your specific bp since you are new to them. Hides are super easy to fashion and you don't have to spend an arm and a leg on them if you don't want. I went to a second hand store and bought some thick plastic jello moulds recently and just cut out some holes and made sure the edge was not sharp. They are working great right now.

If you are getting a baby, you can keep him in the 16qt tub for about a year. You don't really need a 41qt tub for an adult male, but it couldn't hurt. I wouldn't go much bigger than a 41qt.

If you are using a stand alone tub setup, make sure you have two tight fitting hides. People using a rack system can get away with one or no hides because the rack encloses most of the tub and keeps it pretty dark.

Also, make sure you get a reliable thermostat to use with your heat mat.

Ok, so I'll put him in the 16 quart bin for a while and then a 41 quart.

I've heard people say different things about substrate, what is the best one?

You can use news paper, aspen, sanichips, or other substraite. Just don't use Pine shavings.

What is best for holding humidity?

Also, do not use cedar.
Newspaper doesn't really hold any humidity as you can imagine.
I can't speak for other substrates but I use chunky coconut stuff and it works well for me.

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Originally Posted by Fish

What is best for holding humidity?

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You shouldn't have to worry about humidity if you are using a tub. I personally prefer paper towels. Easy to spot messes, clean looking, pretty cheap.

So do you guys just mist your tank when humidity drops or what?

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Originally Posted by Fish

So do you guys just mist your tank when humidity drops or what?

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If you are using a tub, the humidity should never really drop too much. But yes, if it drops below 50%, a quick mist should bring it back up for a few days at least.

Here's another question, when will more babies be available? I've seen on alot of sites that they don't have any babies from this season yet..

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Originally Posted by Fish

Here's another question, when will more babies be available? I've seen on alot of sites that they don't have any babies from this season yet..

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Most peoples females have just started to drop eggs. Expect there to be a lot of hatchlings on the market in the next 2-3 months.

Should I remove the hide while feeding? Also, I could get a 2.5' from a rescue, would I want to put him in the 16q for a while or just right away in the 42qt

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Originally Posted by Fish

Should I remove the hide while feeding? Also, I could get a 2.5' from a rescue, would I want to put him in the 16q for a while or just right away in the 42qt

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I personally remove the hide while feeding. It just makes it a bit easier imo.

I'd start with the 42 from the start. If the snake shows high stress though you could switch to the smaller.

Ok thanks everyone.. I'll get the enclosure after I get back from spring break and then get a ball python when more pop up for sale.. :D

If I have anymore questions I'll just ask

EDIT: I have one more, what would I get if I breed Normal het albino x Pastel?

You get some normals and you get some pastels.
If you are looking to make albinos, you need het albino x het albino.

I thought I would need het albino x het albino or albino x albino.. albinos are soo cool but are a bit pricey for me, so I think I might get a het albino or two and possibly breed them in a few years..

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Originally Posted by Fish

I thought I would need het albino x het albino or albino x albino.. albinos are soo cool but are a bit pricey for me, so I think I might get a het albino or two and possibly breed them in a few years..

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to make first generation albinos, any of the following combos will give you a chance of producing them:

Het albino x Het albino
Het albino x Albino
Albino x Albino

Yes, that is true. You can use Albinos to do it too.

I have some questions about feeding strikes.. How long should you wait before you offer live? and how long is "too long" for a fast?

BTW I should be getting the enclosure monday or tuesday and the snake in 2 weeks. :D

Could someone do me a favor? take out one of your 31 or 42 quart bins, measure it, and tell me the dimensions?

thanks :)

22-1/2" x 14-3/4" x 5-3/8" h is my 32qt tub.

As for the feeding strikes, it depends. If it is a baby BP who is off feed, I would offer live if it wouldn't take f/t. If it is an adult that is fasting for seasonal or breeding reasons, I wouldn't change to live just because of that if I know they eat f/t when they are not fasting.

OK, thanks. Should I get an 8" x 8" heat mat or a 10" x 11" heat mat? Or does the extra 2 inches really even matter?

I would go with the 10x11

Ok thanks. I'll get it over the weekend.

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Originally Posted by Fish

Should I remove the hide while feeding? Also, I could get a 2.5' from a rescue, would I want to put him in the 16q for a while or just right away in the 42qt

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I'd start with the smaller tub, since they might feel too exposed in a 42qt at that age/size... I started all my young'uns in 15qts, moved them to 32qt at around 500g, and then 42qt for those over 1000g (and one boy who likes his space). My biggest girls don't have hides, since they simply don't fit into any - at least not ones that would fit in their tubs - but my others have at least one. I don't remove the hides for feeding, since they love to "ambush" from inside... just a personal preference, but it does seem to help with the shy feeders. And it definitely won't hurt them to strike from the hide, at least not in my experiences. :gj:

OK, thanks. I hope I get an easy feeder for my first ball python.

Here's a question, does it matter if I use newspaper with print on it, especially since I will mist to keep moisture up?

I don't use news paper but some have said that the print got on their snakes and recommend using unprinted news paper, while others say they use printed news paper with no problems. I tend to think it will vary and the only way to know for sure is to try it and go from there...

I've heard of people with white ball pythons being able to tell that the ink has gotten on the snake, but never with royals.

The best way to find cheap morphs online is to look around. I am your age too i am 15 years old and i plan on spending every penny i make on herps. i reccomend googling ralph davis, Garrick Demeyer, lll reptile, pro exotics, kingsnake.com, mike wilbanks, and bhb enterprises all are amazing ball python breeders and really care for the animals. As morphs for 90 bucks i can only think of male pastels and male yellow bellys, but if you can continue saving save for a bumblebee, personally one of my favorite ball pythons.

Aren't bees like $700?

The tub I got is clear, what should I do to keep the light out so the snake is secure?

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Originally Posted by Fish

The tub I got is clear, what should I do to keep the light out so the snake is secure?

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Provide the snake with two dark hides..

I'm trying to prepare myself in case I have to feed live.. Is it better to dangle the mouse by it's tail or to just let it run loose in the tank?

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Originally Posted by Fish

I'm trying to prepare myself in case I have to feed live.. Is it better to dangle the mouse by it's tail or to just let it run loose in the tank?

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I just let it run loose in the tank. Make sure you pay attention to it though, dont just bung it in the cage and leave it. :P

Also to keep the light out of the enclosure it helps to put 1 inch plastic foam around 3 sides of the cage, it helps insolate the cage as well as darkening the cage.

Ok, will do.

Two More Questions to Help a Total n00b
1. If he doesn't eat the frozen mouse I offer to him, does it just go to waste or can I re-freeze it?
2. wtf do I do if the mouse bites the snake?