New to Tubs

I've lurked for awhile, only just got an ID, and only started a couple of threads. This one is important to me. I'm adding a male pastel to go with my December acquisition, a female spider. I've never used tubs before. My first ball is a normal, pet store purchase who feeds like Jaws. He is housed in a 40g aqua. Never a bad shed. It's easy to admit that I got lucky with him. However, as space becomes limited, I'm looking to go to tubs.

My questions:
1. Is there a general size chart for tubs? IE if snake a is Xin and Yg he goes into Zqt tub.
2. What is the best method of puncturing the tub?
3. When will the addiction end? :)

Well I go by weight, 500 grams and under I keep in 15 quart tubs, and even that is case by case. Some snakes larger than 500 grams don't like the more room and need to stay in 15 quarts a little longer. Anyway 500+ I keep in 32 quart tubs. There is a next stage to upgrade to even larger, but I haven't personally gotten there yet.

Like Sniktime said with the smaller tubs. Generally my adult males go in the 32 qt tubs. My adult females of breeding size go in the bigger 41 qt tubs. Babies in the 15 qt. Tubs are wonderful and you will love them. Just remember if you ever need the 41 qt tubs, do not put very many holes in them until you figure out where your heat and humidity will be. The bigger the tub, the harder it is to get it perfect.

* Hatchlings to 500 grams – 15 Quarts (17"L x 11 1/8"W x 6 3/8"H)
* Up to 1500 grams – 32 Quarts (23 1/2"L x 16 1/4"W x 6 3/8"H)
* 1500 grams+ – 41 Quarts (34 3/4"L x 16 1/2"W x 6"H)

some may not like larger tubs so smaller is sometimes better per snake

i keep all my snakes i nthe same sized tub cause I don't have a mutli sized rack I just clutter up the tubs foro the smaller guys. I used a taper drill bit to make my holes inthe tubs they start at a1/8 up to 2/3 on the same bit and the holes are clean. I suggest starting with about 6 hold to allow air to move depending on how you set the tub will help set the hole were. I got a couple tubs I need ot tape hole up cause I loosing all my humidity thoughthem.. electric heat drys the air fast.

I have all of my babies, from 110 grams up over 300 grams in roughly 16 quart tubs. Granted, it doesn't look like much room for them, but I have discovered my babies are perfectly happy in this size. They eat, shed, grow and make messes. And they all come out to say hello twice a week, well all except for my hubby's little monster.

Now, me personally I don't like the super shallow tubs for the big snakes, so after a great deal of searching and measuring and comparing, I found my ideal adult tubs. They have almost the exact measurements of the recommended 32 quart tubs, except they are 11" tall instead of 6". This is MY personal preference.

Wal-Mart, JoAnn's Fabric, K-mart, or similar places will carry most anything you could look for. I got all my current tubs at JoAnn's. They are Iris tubs, and have very sturdy locking lids.

I use a nail held in a pair of pliers and heated in a candle OR a cheap soldering iron to melt holes in my tubs.

Gale

A soldering iron will cost you about $10 at Wal-Mart or KMart. Just make sure you get a "Soldering Iron" and not a "Soldering Gun"...

#3: NEVER! at least from my personal experience...lol

I go by weight. My babies and juveniles are all in shoebox sized tubs. Then once they are 600+ grams I'll move them up to the next size, and my adults are in 38qt long.

This is what my tubs look like for the babies/juveniles.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...Isis/028-2.jpg

The holes in my tub were done using a $5 soldering iron from wally world. You have to look for these though, and I will admit, it was an accident I found this one. It was over in the sporting goods section, close to the car-stuff....dont ask me how that fits. Anyway, I am using a 16 QT tub from the dollar general. That will do until my girl gets past the 500 mark. I have a feeling she's going to get there fast though....she hasnt refused any meals to date...

Good luck! Hope this helps!

Thanks for the info! I'm using a ZooMed mini to heat the six quart. The temps without holes and a water bowl are running at the right temp, but I'm concerned that holes will lower it enough to make me upgrade.

I hear a lot about flex-watt tape. What can people tell me about this? I'm planning on building my own rack, using one of the DIY ones I've found on here. Also need a thermostat. But since I only have two (and one on the way), I won't be spending a large amount. Thanks again!

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Originally Posted by kelevra

Thanks for the info! I'm using a ZooMed mini to heat the six quart. The temps without holes and a water bowl are running at the right temp, but I'm concerned that holes will lower it enough to make me upgrade.

I hear a lot about flex-watt tape. What can people tell me about this? I'm planning on building my own rack, using one of the DIY ones I've found on here. Also need a thermostat. But since I only have two (and one on the way), I won't be spending a large amount. Thanks again!

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I assume you are using the lid with your tub? If you are, then you don't need to worry about putting holes in the tub. There's plenty of airflow, they aren't air tight! You will have to watch your humidity to be sure that it doesn't get crazy in there.

As for the flexwatt I have a page on my site that explains how to wire it. I also have a page on there that shows a picture of what my set up looks like. I built/wired everything myself. http://www.slitherinsisters.com/how-...e-flexwatt.php It's are pretty easy to use, but you must have something to regulate the heat. It gets pretty darn hot if you let it run wide open.

Be careful when using cheap thermostats. I learned my lesson with those, and almost lost all my snakes in the process. Luckily a friend of mine found out I was using a cheap thermostat and told me to buy a dimmer as a back up in case the thermostat went hay wire. My thermostat ended up melting! When a thermostat breaks it lets the flexwatt run wide open, when a dimmer breaks, it kills the power. I would get a dimmer and set that up as well. If I haven't already, I'll explain how to do that on my website and update it real quick.

Great! Thank you very much! As soon as I'm able to, I will print that info.

as far as thermostats go there are a few options:

Johnson controls and Ranco are about 80 units set up and ready to use (you can find cheaper ones but you will have to wire them yourself).

Then there is Helix, ~135

Then there are the spyder robtics/herpstats, they are 100+ they have a lot of awesome temps.

I have a helix for my rack, and now im using the johnsons to control for some feeder bugs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kelevra

Great! Thank you very much! As soon as I'm able to, I will print that info.

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Glad I could help :gj:

Good luck with everything!

All mine are in 6 qt tubs. I read that they dont need to wonder so y would hatchlings to 500 grams need a 16 qt? I take mine out so they get their roaming in (even though they don't need it) Plan on upgrading when they grow out of their RBI small hides. When they need the medium hides I'll move to 16 qt.

Slight issue. My new pastel hasn't been shipped yet, but I'm setting up his tub. He's getting a 27q set up, and I have a Zoo Med UTH 10-20g as my source. Unfortunately, my belly temp was registering 124! I haven't popped holes in the sides for ventilation to keep the humidity down (running at 99%). I doubt that holes will do enough anyway. I can't go to a smaller UTH since the cool side belly was only 77. Can I run a dimmer to a Zoo med?

I may just keep him in a 6q for a while anyway, but I wanted to be prepared to get him to a bigger setup when he is ready to make that move. Any and all help is always appreciated! Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kelevra

Slight issue. My new pastel hasn't been shipped yet, but I'm setting up his tub. He's getting a 27q set up, and I have a Zoo Med UTH 10-20g as my source. Unfortunately, my belly temp was registering 124! I haven't popped holes in the sides for ventilation to keep the humidity down (running at 99%). I doubt that holes will do enough anyway. I can't go to a smaller UTH since the cool side belly was only 77. Can I run a dimmer to a Zoo med?

I may just keep him in a 6q for a while anyway, but I wanted to be prepared to get him to a bigger setup when he is ready to make that move. Any and all help is always appreciated! Thanks!

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Are you using a thermostat to control the UTH. If not thats why its running hot. They dont just run at the temp you want and thats it.

you must use a t stat when using any belly heat. If not you run the risk of cooking the snake or reptile. Get yourself a good t stat and call it a day. If you truly care about the animal you will not cheap out and get something that isnt going to bite you in the ass at some point.