Finally getting my first ball. Have a few questions.

So I have been reading as much as I can here as well as collecting equipment to prepare for my first ball python. I have a 20l with a sliding mesh lid and I have 2 uth just not installed yet. I just found a 4 month old male jungle morph ball python online that the guy has to sell because his new apartment doesn't allow animals. IT comes with all the accessories as well as its 40 gallon tank, but from what I read babies shouldn't be housed in a large tank so should I switch him over to the 20l when I get him? Also I have been collecting equipment from the shopping list from the glass tank setup sticky on this site, would the aspen bedding be the ideal substrate or should I use the repti carpet only? Just looking for opinions because I want to make sure I have everything right before I take him home. Also for the day/night cycle the guide says to use a daylight and a blue night light can I use the compact flourescent bulbs in white and blue or is the blue still to bright?

First, welcome to the world of ball pythons!
What do you mean by Jungle Morph?

There are jungle pastels, but I wouldn't be too sure what you are getting here. I recommend buying from a breeder so you don't get any presents along with the animal (like mites or parasites or an RI). A 20L should be fine, but if the snake doesn't have tight hides (no logs) and is a baby, it may need to be switched to an even smaller enclosure.

For a 20L tank you probably would only need one UTH, unless your home is very cold and you need them both for the ambient temperatures. You'll also need a thermostat to control it's temperatures, or they will get too hot on their own. Also, I recommend taping the UTH to the underside of the enclosures instead of using the actual adhesive, so you can move it to another tank if you need to.
You will also need some thermometers to monitor the temps inside the enclosure. Digital ones with probes are best.
Aspen bedding is good. I personally don't recommend the carpet because it harbors bacteria. Paper towels and newspaper are also very good substrates.

Good luck!

Thats what I meant a jungle pastel ball. Ill have to setup the tank and measure temps first.

If using the 20 long just put lots of stuff in the tank to make him feel secure! No lighting is required unless you need one to get your ambient temp up! I use a infered bulb during the winter months! Problem with lighting is that it sucks up your humidity. Also once you get it and set everything up then leave him alone for at least a week. No handling or feeding just check his water so he can get settled into his new home! Reptile carpet is the worst substrate. I use coco fibre but newspaper, paper towels, aspen and repibark are all good substrates, it's a personal choice! Make sure you use a digital thermometer and hydgrometer(for humidity) because they are the most acurrate! Good luck with your new pet!!!

The person I am getting him off of is giving me some hides and everything with the 40 gallon tank he is currently housed in but everyone agrees ot put him in the 20l instead of keeping him in the 40 correct? I have a brand new uth and a used one that came with the 20l I just traded for. is it best ot get a thermostat for the uth or just a rheostat and measure with a temp gun? Im going to look into the coco fiber, is that something I can just get and the pet store or is there a cheaper place? Should I get a piece of plexi than to cover up some of the mesh to help keep it humid?

Yes you will want to cover the mesh because you will loose humidity. I did not catch if you read the care sheet on here. If not I highly highly recommend it. It is an amazing source of information and covers just about everything having to deal with husbandry. If your humidity is not hitting 60% you can even move the water dish to the warm side.

Also make sure you read up on mites...just in case. The only reason I say this is because you just never know if the snake is not coming from a reputable breeder!!

I want to reiterate what someone else stated....make sure you have your 20 g tank filled up...as even 20 is still big for a baby...typically they are in a 10g.

I honestly have to say that the hardest part is not to handle the snake for at least a week. It was all I could do my first time!!:oops:

Well congrats and welcome to a life with BP's...warning it is very addictive!! :D

Everyone seems to have covered the husbandry, so I won't add to that. But I think the most missed oppoortunity for the owner of an adoptive snakeis to ask the previous owner a few questions.

1. What is he feeding the snake? If he's feeding it large mice and you try rat pups, the snake may not eat causing you to stress.

2. When did he feed the snake? Some snakes like to be fed at a regular time and will not take prey as easily as when they are usually fed.

3. How many days between feedings? Some young snakes like to eat every 4-5 days, others eat every 7.

3. What temps did he keep the snake? Ideally we should all keep our snakes at the same temps, but some don't. If he kept the snake at room temperature (yes, it done all the time from people that don't know any better), putting him into a 92 degree tank could shock the snake into not eating.

Good Luck!
Jim Smith

All I know is he just started eating adult mice about a month ago, so I will ask the other questions. My thoughts on getting this snake instead of from a reputable dealer was the fact that this guy is trying to get rid of this snake so I felt it would be better to get it and give it a good home with instead of going to someone who wont take care of it or end up getting rid of it etc, where as getting it from a reputable breeder who is already taking good care of their snakes. I have a 10 gallon with a crack in the bottom but I assume if I just put enough stuff in the 20l he should be ok because he is currently in a 40 gallon at the guys house. As far as the care sheet goes I have read it as well as one on another site and I look at them constantly. Also, by not handling him for a week wont make him become aggresive at all would it? I am very new to snakes but I currently keep a spoiled bearded dragon who used to be cage aggressive when I first got him because from not being handled a lot where I got him but I can tell when hes upset but I might have trouble reading a snakes mood though, just worried cause I dont want to screw anything up haha.

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Originally Posted by nmalnar

All I know is he just started eating adult mice about a month ago, so I will ask the other questions. My thoughts on getting this snake instead of from a reputable dealer was the fact that this guy is trying to get rid of this snake so I felt it would be better to get it and give it a good home with instead of going to someone who wont take care of it or end up getting rid of it etc, where as getting it from a reputable breeder who is already taking good care of their snakes. I have a 10 gallon with a crack in the bottom but I assume if I just put enough stuff in the 20l he should be ok because he is currently in a 40 gallon at the guys house. As far as the care sheet goes I have read it as well as one on another site and I look at them constantly. Also, by not handling him for a week wont make him become aggresive at all would it? I am very new to snakes but I currently keep a spoiled bearded dragon who used to be cage aggressive when I first got him because from not being handled a lot where I got him but I can tell when hes upset but I might have trouble reading a snakes mood though, just worried cause I dont want to screw anything up haha.

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I think what you are doing is awesome..I LOVE to here rescue stories!! They are the best and it sounds like you are really preparing.
Not handling him for a week will not make him more aggresive at all. Balls by nature are one of the more passive snakes and will typically (especially as babies) ball up. Hence the name. They are very head shy as this is their most vunerable area. The no handling for a week is to just give him time to become acustom to his new environment and settle down and they are prone to become stressed. With added stress it could lower their immune system. That is all.

It sounds to me like you are on a great track and I am so glad that other poster listed questions for you to ask.

Don't worry about him becoming aggressive because you don't handle him for a week. I don't handle new snakes for three or four weeks. BP's aren't very aggressive as snakes go to begin with. That is not to say that you will never get bit. If you keep snakes for any length of time you probably will get bit sooner or later.

You will learn to read your snake. They are just like us in that they have good days and bad days. Also they all have different personalities. Some of mine wouldn't strike me if I was soaked in rodent urine. Others I keep an eye when I reach in.

Once your baby is in a smaller, more secure enclosure, with proper temps and humidity he may (at first) be a bit protective of his new home. Just remember he will be around for twenty or thirty years! You will no doubt become good friends.

Welcome to the site.

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Originally Posted by j_h_smith

Everyone seems to have covered the husbandry, so I won't add to that. But I think the most missed oppoortunity for the owner of an adoptive snakeis to ask the previous owner a few questions.

1. What is he feeding the snake? If he's feeding it large mice and you try rat pups, the snake may not eat causing you to stress.

Feeding a live adult mouse.

2. When did he feed the snake? Some snakes like to be fed at a regular time and will not take prey as easily as when they are usually fed.

Says he feeds once a week every wednesday

3. How many days between feedings? Some young snakes like to eat every 4-5 days, others eat every 7.

7 days

3. What temps did he keep the snake? Ideally we should all keep our snakes at the same temps, but some don't. If he kept the snake at room temperature (yes, it done all the time from people that don't know any better), putting him into a 92 degree tank could shock the snake into not eating.

Here is the part I am concerned about and would like advice. He said he isnt too picky on temp and the setup comes with a heat lamp so Im assuming there is only ambient temp. How should I set my temps in order to get this snake comfortable to a heat gradient without disrupting his feeding?

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Setup the tank with a UTH and a rheostat/dimmer switch from Home Depot. It's about $10, it's a white cord with the sliding dimmer on one end. Plug the UTH into the dimmer. Start with a little bit of heat, and gradually bring up the heat to about 90 degrees above the UTH. I'd say take about 10-14 days to gradually bring the temps up to where they need to be. If you have a store that you can buy one of the little temp guns, shoot the area above the UTH every day to check the temps. Adjust the dimmer switch just a little every day to bring up the temps maybe just 2 degrees each day.

There are many people here that are willing to help you. Just ask. Don't worry about it. Just ask, no matter what the question.

Good Luck!
Jim Smith

Also I read all u need in some terra cotta pots with a hole broken in them for hides, Is this true? IF so Ill go out and pick some up today also I went and looked at bedding and I was thinking of getting the aspen shavings but there was also the reptibark which was recommended to me by another snake owner I know. Is there any advantages to either? If not Im just going to go get the aspen. Im also having trouble finding a Digital thermometer/hygrometer locally. Any suggestions? My other questions is I read that you want to have a water dish big enough for him to soak but then I also read on another caresheet that it is not neccesary. Should I get one for hm to soak in just to be safe?

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Originally Posted by nmalnar

Also I read all u need in some terra cotta pots with a hole broken in them for hides, Is this true? IF so Ill go out and pick some up today also I went and looked at bedding and I was thinking of getting the aspen shavings but there was also the reptibark which was recommended to me by another snake owner I know. Is there any advantages to either? If not Im just going to go get the aspen. Im also having trouble finding a Digital thermometer/hygrometer locally. Any suggestions? My other questions is I read that you want to have a water dish big enough for him to soak but then I also read on another caresheet that it is not neccesary. Should I get one for hm to soak in just to be safe?

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You can use anything as a hide as long as it's the proper size. nothing too big and of course not too small.

In my opinion, Aspen is easy to work with. I also believe it's less expensive too. But I guess it's really a personal opinion. Maybe try both and see what you think.

I think you can find digi therms at Home Depot. They come with 6 ft probes. As for the hygro, I don't know if a digi is needed. Again, a personal preference in my opinion.

If all of the husbandry is correct, your snake won't have the need to soak. If it has a bad shed, you can soak him in a sink and help with removing the shed skin. HOWEVER, a larger bowl does help with the humidity in the tank. Most breeders will have a 4 inch bowl in the tubs, so as you can see, it's not neccessary.


Hope This Helps,
Jim Smith

I was thinking about purchasing this temp gun that way I can use it on my beardies cage as well.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93984


I was reading thorugh the thread on how to setup a glass aquarium and it said to use repticarpet on the bottom os the snake wont get burned from coming into contasct with the glass directly above the uth but you guys were saying that repticarpet is bad because it harbors bacteria. Should I put something like newspaper on the bottom than substrate so he doesnt come into contact with the uth?



Thank you for taking the time to answer all my questions. I just want to get this right because Ive never even held a snake before let alone own one, im just used to my lizards which have different requirements.

Thats the same temp gun I have and I love it,for the best reading hold the temp gun about 3 inches from your target, you can use newspaper ( I prefer unprinted because inked newspapers smells like hell after a bomb drop) or you can use aspen.

Ok so I finally got the tank setup for him. I have it at about 78 degrees above the uth and ill slowly bring it up to 90 over the next week or so. Here are some pictures finally.

Overall cage setup. I left the stick on thermometer in there but im using a temp gun I purchased today.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c3...er/python1.jpg

The new baby boy.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c3...er/python2.jpg

Already settling in.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c3...er/python3.jpg

go to walmart or the dollar tree and buy more coverage, i have our baby in a 20L and i make like he's in a jungle, he loves to crawl around it at night. i would say go to micheals but the one were im at got expensive all of a sudden

Decorate the tank for the way you like it. The snake won't care. Give him a hide and water and he's happy.

Jim Smith

It might be a good idea to cover the back and sides of the tank with dark paper or foam core board, just to add a bit more security.

Ok got another question to ask. Thr previous owner would feed him on wednesdays, well I got him on saturday so shoult I skipp this wednesday that way he gets a whole week to get used to his tank than feeding him next wednesday?

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Originally Posted by nmalnar

Ok got another question to ask. Thr previous owner would feed him on wednesdays, well I got him on saturday so shoult I skipp this wednesday that way he gets a whole week to get used to his tank than feeding him next wednesday?

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You can feed him on Wednesday, he may or may not eat. It won't hurt to try to feed him. OR, you can wait for another week. This shouldn't be an issue either.

So, I guess what I'm saying...do want you want. Whichever day you decide to feed him should be just fine.

Shouldn't make a difference,
Jim Smith

do i have to supplement his diet with calcium or a multivitamin or anything like I have to do with my beardie?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nmalnar

do i have to supplement his diet with calcium or a multivitamin or anything like I have to do with my beardie?

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As long as the mouse/rat is healthy and has been given a proper diet, you will not need a suppliment. In 99.999999% of the time, you will not need a suppliment.

HTH,
Jim Smith

the guy said he was feeding an adult mouse but when I went to get crix for my bearded I asked about their feeder mice and they said he sounds to small to be eating adult mice and should be eating hoppers.(its a local pet store which is why Im asking the question here) but the snaked did have an injury to his rectum due to defecating something to large, its all healed now but could the injury be related to too large of a prey item and should I try and go back to hoppers for a bit?

He looks like he could easily eat an adult mouse with no problem. I personally do not trust any pet store employees when it comes to husbandry information.

BPs straight out of the egg eat hoppers and after 3-4 feedings move to small adult mice.

so all day today hes been burrowing and exploring around his entire tank, so i am assuming he is hungry, its about 7pm here so is it ok to feed him this late? also should I try and get a small adult mouse or is the size not much of an issue? Im going to feed him in a seperate container so he doesnt accidentally ingest some bedding so should I let him sit in there for a min then introduce the mouse or vice versa?

Are you feeding f/t or live? Honestly, ingesting bedding is not a bad thing. It happens and chances are if it does it will only be a small piece. Nothing to worry about.

If this is your first feeding, it might be more successful if you just feed him in him home enclosure. A small adult mouse should be perfect.

i dont put him in a seperate container i just lay down a large piece of cardboard and let him eat on there so then you dont have to mess with him when hes done once he goes in his warm hide just take out the cardboard just an idea

it would be live, so everyone agrees that feeding in the enclosure does not make him more cage aggresive towards thinking hands are food? thats my biggest concern but i see alot of people here say feeding in a seperate container is unneccesary?

adult mouse just walking all over him he wont eat? what is wrong should I wait another week is something wrong? this adult mouse does look really big and it was the smallest one. he should be eating adult mice right?

HE ATE!!! So I tried to feed him in a bin and the mouse was just running all over him and he was cowering and balling up. While he was in the bin with the mouse I had installed the black foam core board so after 15 mins in the bin i just put him back in his cage. I then put the mouse in the box it came in in his cage for about a half hour and as soon as I let it out of the box he was on him and curled him up. So looks like ill just be feeding him in his cage from now on.

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Originally Posted by nmalnar

HE ATE!!! So I tried to feed him in a bin and the mouse was just running all over him and he was cowering and balling up. While he was in the bin with the mouse I had installed the black foam core board so after 15 mins in the bin i just put him back in his cage. I then put the mouse in the box it came in in his cage for about a half hour and as soon as I let it out of the box he was on him and curled him up. So looks like ill just be feeding him in his cage from now on.

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he wouldnt feed because he felt insecure. Once you put him back in his secure enclosure he felt right at home and ate. Some times it takes a few tries to get the ball pythons to eat when you first get them. My cinny was real picky up untill today where as soon as the mouse was held over him(freshly killed) he leaped out and wrapped him up and proceeded to eat.

so I finally added the foam core board and added a few fake plants to help make him feel more scure. Let me know what you all think if I added enough.

Before when I first set up the tank with out foam board and fake plants

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c3...er/python1.jpg


After shot with all the decorating done so I hope he will feel more secure now. (the second hide is underneath the large leaf on the right. IT only covers half of the top hole of the hide.)

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c3...er/python4.jpg

How often do bps shed? I just got mine less than two weeks ago and the previous owner said that he had just shed and now his eyes are blue and he looks faded, so Im guessing he is ready to shed? Should I skip his feeding on friday if he is ready to start shedding? Also when I construct a humid hide I can just put damp sphagm moss in a container with a hole for him to hid in so its ok for him to be in contact with the moss? any pictures would be great.

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Originally Posted by nmalnar

How often do bps shed? I just got mine less than two weeks ago and the previous owner said that he had just shed and now his eyes are blue and he looks faded, so Im guessing he is ready to shed? Should I skip his feeding on friday if he is ready to start shedding? Also when I construct a humid hide I can just put damp sphagm moss in a container with a hole for him to hid in so its ok for him to be in contact with the moss? any pictures would be great.

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It just depends on their growth mostly. I have noticed that many of my new snakes shed within a week or two to me bringing them home. I think it is mostly shedding due to stress.

Offer your snake food on the regular schedule, many BPs will eat during shed, the only way to find out if yours does is to try and feed while in shed.

Its fine if they come into contact with the moss, just make sure to clean it out and rehydrate it every few days to prevent mold.

how long does the process take? he was fine on monday then yesterday his eyes had blued over so will it take a week or more or less?

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Originally Posted by nmalnar

how long does the process take? he was fine on monday then yesterday his eyes had blued over so will it take a week or more or less?

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It can take up to two weeks but normally around 7-10 days. Patience :)

So I offered food yesterday which he took and saw that he had started to shed but looks liek he only shed halfway in one piece and still has alot of shed left on him, should I leave him alone still or what? humidity is at 70 percent, Ill post a couple pics showing him.

P.S: Does he look like a normal phase to you guys or a jungle because I was told he was a jungle.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c3...r/P1160829.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c3...r/P1160828.jpg

I am really concerned about this, what should I do?

Give him a few more days to see if he can get it off himself, then stick him in a tub with about 1/2 inch of water and a wash cloth for him to rub the shed off on. Leave him soaking for about 30 minutes (make sure you supervise the soak) and then try and get any remaining shed off when you take him out.