a little help?

ok so i've posted before about my little brothers ball python, we got it after it had it's first meal, my step mom picked it up like all the time and i told her not to but she didn't listen, so we've had it for about 2 weeks and it hasn't eaten, we're a little worried, i also have one female, btw my brother's is male and she's about a month or maybe a little more older, well we kinda housed them together and i just found that that's not good at all...

we just seperated them yesterday and we're hoping that was the cause of the male not eating, we're getting a little worried about the male, it's only have eaten once, and it's moving all over the cage a little over half the time, so here's a pic of it, btw the breeder that we bought the male from told us to seperate them and so we did, we split the tank in half actually...

do you guys think this will help him?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y21...1018/photo.jpg

Just looking at the picture it seems like the male isn't very comfortable in such a big environment. I would get much smaller hides with a small opening so that he fits comfortably inside. Balls seem to prefer small hides where they can feel the sides around them and feel secure.

Also, you can try covering some of the tank to provide more security.

I wouldn't handle the snake at all until he starts eating regularly. Try to feed whatever it is that he fed on before. If you are unsure, try a live weaned mouse or rat pup. Only offer food once a week or 5 days at most.

Finally, make sure the temps are right using an accurate thermometer measured at the substrate level. His environment should be in the low 80s cool side to the low 90s warm side.

Good luck!

thank you, we're just worried it can get really ill if it doesn't seen soon

cover the back and sides with dark paper on the outside. get them smaller and tighter fitting hides. Plastic bowls with a door cut in them are great. Or, reptilebasics.com has some that work great for BPs if you dont want to make them yourself.

what are you using to measure the temps in their enclosures with? if its not a Digital thermometer, then you NEED to get one. the dial ones and the stick ones are not appropriate for reptile use at all. What are the temps at ?

he needs to not be handled at all until hes eating. i know its hard, but explain to your step mom that this isnt about HER, its about the ANIMAL. once hes eating regularly he can be handled again and enjoyed as a pet but for now, either dont handle him at all or handle the other snake that is feeding regularly.

yea im using a thermometer with a needle, i'm going to get some digital ones today, another problem i have, we've been using heat lamp but then we changed to hear pad, but it doesn't seem that hot/warm...

The under tank heater is probably much hotter than you think. Get a digital thermometer with a probe and stick the probe right on the glass under the substrate where the UTH is.

Chances are it will be above 100* which is too hot for a ball python. You need something to control the heat pad, preferably a reptile thermostat but a dimmer is a good temporary solution.

A few weeks of not eating are not a big deal. I have actually heard of adult ball's, in good health going 4-5 months without a meal. Separation is a must. Probably be better if you could get them into totally separated cages and not just separate the cage, because boy will smell girl. Make sure you read through the care sheets again on the temps and humidity needs. I always say this so I'll say it again.
Yes, aquariums are good for seeing them, other than that, they stink. They don't hold temp, they don't hold humidity. I agree that covering 3 of the fours sides with dark paper is good, and then I'd back that with cardboard if your temps are iffy. I'd also cover 1/2 -2/3 of the top with foil covered cardboard to help maintain humidity.

Definitely get the digital thermometers. If you are using a heat pad you need to make sure that it is in the middle of the tank so they both have a hot spot to sit. The best thing I would say is to get an under tank heater and a light dimmer switch from lowes or home depot. They make ones that you can plug a lamp into and then it has a slider switch to adjust the light. They have them for about $10. You plug the UTH into the dimmer and you can adjust the switch up and down and it will adjust the temp on the pad. This is what I use and it has been working fine until I get a thermostat. Just make sure you check it a couple times a day to make sure the temps are right. :gj:

thank you so much guys, like seriously thank you, i'm going to get a digital thermometer tomorrow, my snake on the right is doing good actually, she's been eating with no problem...
hopefully little by little things will come together and the male will be happier

another question, how many thermometers should i get if i split it intwo?

No one has asked you what you are trying to feed him, so I will. What are you feeding him? Is it the same thing the breeder was feeding him? Did you ask it it's taking F/T (probably not) or only live? Did it feed on mice or rats?

Tell mom to leave the snake alone, it needs to get acclimated to it's surroundings. Make sure it has plenty of water. Try to use as little light in the room as possible and nothing at night time.

As others have said, make sure your temps are correct.

BTW, I would have never sold a baby that's only eaten once. 3 meals are the minimum for me.

Good Luck!
Jim Smith

supposedl he fed him live mice and it was a hopper, we tried the same and it didn't work, so now we're going to try fuzzy

babies can be started on hoppers, don't waste your money on anything smaller, everything takes time, as stated on eatch side, get 2 of the 12 buck accurite themomitors, place the sticky probe on the UTH(under tank heater itself, then get 2 of the 7 dollar box thermomitors that can mesure ambiant temps and humidity and set it toward the cool side, if strapped for cash, got to home depot and buy the 10 buck lamp dimmers, all white, (you push button up and down to adjust heat) they will do fine, but if ya want better, go to petsmart or order at www.reptilesupply.com the reptitemp 500, you can plug both UTHs in and put the probe in one and it should keep both close to same temp. as it stand you def need the 12 buck themomiters and the dimmers, if you got extra cash the reptitemp. so your looking at about 50-60 bucks either way, you could also get the exoterra small hides at petco for like 7 bucks. hope this helped
steven