Skinny and Dehydrated?

I've been trying to fatten up my Beardie by giving her a lot of superworms. I feel that she is very skinny, not lethargic, and no bones are showing besides the spine looking to be a little out. I felt that she wasn't gaining any weight from the supers, so I -gasp- gave her a hopper, but she still doesn't really look any different. I watch her a lot, and I've noticed that it seems she isn't drinking from her water dish. Today and yesterday I took her out to see if I can give her some water. I poked a hole in the cap of a water bottle and lightly sprayed her mouth. She did drink, and today she drank for a few minutes. The other day when I offered her superworms she only took two, and it seems that she isn't eating a whole lot of her greens, but still eating a bit of it. She is on paper towels, her temps get up to 100F+, I offer her fresh greens daily, and give her superworms every other day. I'm going to start taking weights with her every time she poops. Today she pooped twice, the second being more liquidy, so I'm guessing pee? Here are some pictures:

In this one she is laying on my leg on a towel. There's a quarter for size comparison.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...z/DSC01413.jpg

Here is some pictures of her standing up to show you how skinny she is. She also has skin coming up on her sides, so I'm not sure if that is from her being skinny or dehydrated. I do bathe her as well.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...z/DSC01415.jpg
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...z/DSC01416.jpg
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/t...z/DSC01417.jpg

She is still pretty active, and loves to move around, which also means she doesn't chill out when I handle her. She has a water dish big enough for her to fit in available whenever she needs it for whatever reason.

I weight her tonight and she's 247g, and I did try offering her superworms but she refused them. I also tried offering her squash, but she refused them. She loves both of those, but I have no clue why she's refusing..

And one more thing, I contacted LLLReptile about this problem and I hope to get an email back soon.

Beardies wont drink out of a water bowl, you have to mist and give them baths.

Shes from lllreptiles? Get a fecal done and send it to a good vet. I really do not trust them.

Problem #1, You got an animal from LLL.

They are notorious for selling unhealthy animals.

I would soak him and get a fecal done.

Double check for mites, I personally know several folks who have gotten mites from them.


Best of luck.

Right LLLreptiles are known for selling unhealthy animals. Also do not over feed him he might be 1 of 3 things

1-impacted from alot of super's and the hopper or pinkie
2-Brumation
3-Pin worms or Coccidia

get a vetcheck

I've checked for mites but found nothing, and while keeping her on paper towels I found no mites at all. She isn't impacted, she's defecating but the feces seems watery and smells very bad (it stinks up the entire second story of my house!). I'm thinking it's parasites. I've looked closely at her feces to see if I could find any movement in it, but I didn't see anything, though, I'm still going to get a fecal.

On average, what do vets normally charge for a fecal and on average how much would it cost to get a reptile dewormed? The vet visits are $56 I think, so I'm just trying to see what I'm going to pay throughout this entire thing.

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Originally Posted by CoolioTiffany

I've checked for mites but found nothing, and while keeping her on paper towels I found no mites at all. She isn't impacted, she's defecating but the feces seems watery and smells very bad (it stinks up the entire second story of my house!). I'm thinking it's parasites. I've looked closely at her feces to see if I could find any movement in it, but I didn't see anything, though, I'm still going to get a fecal.

On average, what do vets normally charge for a fecal and on average how much would it cost to get a reptile dewormed? The vet visits are $56 I think, so I'm just trying to see what I'm going to pay throughout this entire thing.

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It varies from vet to vet and city to city. I have one vet that charged me $150 and another who charged me $30. The cheaper one was a friend of a friend so they didnt charge me a vet visit and didnt even need to see the animal.

How long have you had him/her? By the extra looking skin it reminds me of a female that recently laid and is all streched out. The good part is curing internal parasites is not too difficult with beardies.

She very well may be approaching brumation which will cause her to sleep alot and not be very interested in eating. The only bad part about that is they should have alot of stored fat to live off while sleeping. I have had beardies brumate for over 3 months and as little as 3 weeks. A good soaking is always a good idea.

As far as the poop stinking that is normal with beardies. I have my beardies in a room with 75 snakes and one beardies poop can smell way more then 10 snake poops. The fact that she pooped is good. If you have any specific questions feel free to PM me. I have been keeping and breeding dragons for over 15 years.

Hope you guy is feeling better soon:)

Hate to scare you but i had a leo from them that was sold to me sick :( He eventually passed on. They did refund me though, but now the only thing that i buy from lll are supplies

i have to say that west coast jungle is wrong. yes a beardie's poop smells bad but if it fills up the entire 2nd floor youhave aproblem. a parasite can not be seen by our eyes. you need a microsope that has to reach 400x or more . Pin worms also can not be seen by our eyes. wait..BINGO um parasites as coccidia can cause weight loss, so by my guess you have a parasite in your beardies system =[. I highly suggest going to a vet

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Originally Posted by West Coast Jungle

It varies from vet to vet and city to city. I have one vet that charged me $150 and another who charged me $30. The cheaper one was a friend of a friend so they didnt charge me a vet visit and didnt even need to see the animal.

How long have you had him/her? By the extra looking skin it reminds me of a female that recently laid and is all streched out. The good part is curing internal parasites is not too difficult with beardies.

She very well may be approaching brumation which will cause her to sleep alot and not be very interested in eating. The only bad part about that is they should have alot of stored fat to live off while sleeping. I have had beardies brumate for over 3 months and as little as 3 weeks. A good soaking is always a good idea.

As far as the poop stinking that is normal with beardies. I have my beardies in a room with 75 snakes and one beardies poop can smell way more then 10 snake poops. The fact that she pooped is good. If you have any specific questions feel free to PM me. I have been keeping and breeding dragons for over 15 years.

Hope you guy is feeling better soon:)

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I've had her since November 14, so I've had her for two weeks now. I checked her over at the reptile expo, and she did seem healthy. Hopefully that hopper kicks in and gives her some weight if she does go into brumation. I do soak her a few times a week, but she never really even crap sin the bathtub, she just sits there LOL. The only two solid feces she's had was when she pooped in the container she was in at the show and a few day after I brought her home.

After contacting LLL, here's our conversation so far:

Me: Hi,



I purchased a Bearded Dragon from you guys at LLLReptile at the Phoenix Reptile Expo on November 14. She seemed healthy and everything, until now. She seemed very skinny, not lethargic, and no bones are showing besides the spine which is popping out just a little bit. She loves her superworms and her squash, but I offered her both tonight and she refused. I fed her a hopper mouse yesterday because she looked very skinny, and I see no improvement. The other day she ate two superworms, but refused the rest. She also seems to not be eating her greens as much as she used to. I have her husbandry spot on, I've checked over two different forums and made sure everything is correct. I think she may also has parasites because her feces is not solid, it's more liquid than it is solid, and it smells BAD.

Them: If she just ate a hopper mouse- she probably won't want anything else for at least a few days. Mammals are much more difficult for them to digest than insects and greens.
If the watery feces started after you got her, it may have to do with her set up or what she has been eating. (the squash will cause that if she eats a lot of it). Her enclosure temps may also be too hot, which would cause that as well.
What is the size of your cage and the temps in the basking spot?

Me: I have a 40 gallon enclosure for her, and she seems to fit perfectly in it. She spends most of her time basking on her log, so the only time she gets off the log is when she eats her greens or sleeps. Her basking temps stay between 100F-105F. I also heard a 40 gallon is the minimum size cage you want to go, but I will be upgrading her to a 55 gallon whenever I get the chance.

Them: Try sticking to feeding her crickets and greens- stay away from the superworms and other veggies just for a few days to see how that affects how the stool looks. As I mentioned before, the water in the squash and other veggies can cause the loose stool.
You can also purchase an over the counter de wormer called Panacur or Safeguard if you are concerned about parasites. Since the stool was normal when you got her, it is unlikely you purchased her with worms, but it won't hurt to de-worm her if she is not gaining weight.

So, if she isn't gaining weight and/or losing weight, should I try those products?? I'd rather go to a vet, but since my money is tight right now, I'm not looking forward to needing help from my mom with a vet bill again. I really should've saved my money I got for my birthday LOL.. but at least I got a Pastel BP to make some Bees with and a cool Beardie:cool:

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Originally Posted by West Coast Jungle

How long have you had him/her? By the extra looking skin it reminds me of a female that recently laid and is all streched out. The good part is curing internal parasites is not too difficult with beardies.

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Well, they could have used her to produce some Beardies, so I guess I will ask about that in the next email I get from them. She is about 3-4 years old, so I wouldn't see why they wouldn't use her to produce eggs.

LLL Doesnt produce any animals to my knowledge, they buy bulk from people and resale.. seriously doubt any qt or supliments... any who I bought a beardy last year that had worms... but it was obvious, There are no reptile vets within 2 hr drive from me so I did the best i could... got him over it.. doing good. What ever you find good luck.... your beardie still looks to have a fat tail thats a good sighn a bath will help with dehydration again good luck

Hope you enjoyed the phoenix show.... i know i did

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Originally Posted by jjmitchell

LLL Doesnt produce any animals to my knowledge, they buy bulk from people and resale.. seriously doubt any qt or supliments... any who I bought a beardy last year that had worms... but it was obvious, There are no reptile vets within 2 hr drive from me so I did the best i could... got him over it.. doing good. What ever you find good luck.... your beardie still looks to have a fat tail thats a good sighn a bath will help with dehydration again good luck

Hope you enjoyed the phoenix show.... i know i did

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Ohh alright, then they could've bought it from someone who was breeding Beardies?

I'm glad she doesn't look severely underweight, I've seen some Beardies that were BAD. Like, extremely skinny with the hip bone showing and everything. I caught her eating greens today, so I'm glad that I know she's eating her greens. There is a vet I went to for my Kingsnake's RI, so I might as well go to him, he's a pretty knowledgable vet too.

You went to the Phoenix Show?

The hopper may be a reason shes not eating as well. Beardies are made to eat insects, hoppers are going to give her a hard time Digesting, she could even become impacted. Make sure she is super hydrated, because she will need it because of the hopper.

Also, I doubt that one hopper will help with her weight at all.

I didnt even realize beardies would take a hopper. I give out the occasional pinky and they seem to be just the right size. But thats besides the point.

I read earlier in this thread someone mentioned beardies will not drink from a water bowl. This is not true as mine will drink from a water bowl. It can be difficult to GET them to drink from the bowl, as they cannot see the water unless its moving (I assume). To counter this, I place an ice cube on top of the screen over the water bowl. As the ice melts, it drips into the water. When the beardie sees the splash of water she realizes what it is and goes for a drink!

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Originally Posted by flynn

I didnt even realize beardies would take a hopper. I give out the occasional pinky and they seem to be just the right size. But thats besides the point.

I read earlier in this thread someone mentioned beardies will not drink from a water bowl. This is not true as mine will drink from a water bowl. It can be difficult to GET them to drink from the bowl, as they cannot see the water unless its moving (I assume). To counter this, I place an ice cube on top of the screen over the water bowl. As the ice melts, it drips into the water. When the beardie sees the splash of water she realizes what it is and goes for a drink!

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They shouldnt be eating pinkys, let alone something as big as a hopper.

Also, you have a Drip system going on, which is perfectly fine, but thats not a lone water bowl. Im not saying that cant drink from a water bowl, it is just extreamly difficult to get them to, and there may be problems with Dehydration when your trying to teach them to.

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Originally Posted by Beardedragon

Also, you have a Drip system going on, which is perfectly fine, but thats not a lone water bowl. Im not saying that cant drink from a water bowl, it is just extreamly difficult to get them to, and there may be problems with Dehydration when your trying to teach them to.

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This is true. I've had one dragon that never took to the water bowl, another one that drinks out of it like a dog. The method I posted shouldnt be a substitute for the standard husbandry methods however. Just a simple way to get the dragon interested in the water.

lll reptiles are not very good i bought a female beardie from them at teh daytona expo and she almost died didnt eat or drink for 4 days and just layed there with her eyes closed i soaked her 2-3 times a day and slowly got her eating again i also bought a male from sandfire dragon ranch he has almost doubled her in size (they were the same when i bought them) he is definetly alot better breeding. i feed crickets daily and meal worms nightly and a veggie mix every other day and dust thier crickets every other day

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Originally Posted by CoolioTiffany

I weight her tonight and she's 247g, and I did try offering her superworms but she refused them. I also tried offering her squash, but she refused them. She loves both of those, but I have no clue why she's refusing..

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Guess what Kiddo, Big Gunns just happens to be a Beardee expert also(bred a ton of them). It's not gonna hurt anything to take your Dragon to a qualified Vet...and I(no third person) don't want to discourage that, but Dragons will brumate like WCJ said in the winter. A change of environment(you just bought it) can cause them to do so.

It does look a little skinny though. How long is your light cycle? This is another thing that can cause it. Also, you could bump up that basking spot a little. 125 is not too hot if it can get away from it. Make sure the cool end of the cage is not too cool also. This Dragon may have been kept in a very bright cage. Tanks are never very bright unless you have some great florescent lighting.

Are you using any Calcium powder? This, along with vitamin powder is important with Dragons...more so with babies.

Like I said earlier, the change of environment may have caused your Dragon to start to brumate. It's hard to get them out of this mode sometimes once they're in it, but a very bright cage and hot temps can work. It's scary for the newbie to try and understand why their Dragon won't eat. It's kinda impossible for us to say from here, but if the top of the eyes start sinking in, you need to see a Vet ASAP.


This is another case of "you need to know". You need to know how this Dragon was kept. People keep Dragons differently and they thrive, but if you change that, they may not. Since this is an adult, and it was bought from a "wholesaler", it might have been harder for you to find out exactly how it was raised though. Always find out how an animal was kept when you purchase it. Sometimes it does make a difference.

You're gonna need to keep a close eye on this guy. Dragons are known to have a problem with Coccidia(they all have it). This needs to be treated quickly if it gets too high.

I found something good to read.

http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/parasitecare/

Good luck.

Forgot something. Other people have stated it, but get rid of the water bowl. Get a squirt bottle and squirt the Dragon on the snout. It will dip it's head and drink.:gj:

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Originally Posted by Big Gunns

It does look a little skinny though. How long is your light cycle? This is another thing that can cause it. Also, you could bump up that basking spot a little. 125 is not too hot if it can get away from it. Make sure the cool end of the cage is not too cool also. This Dragon may have been kept in a very bright cage. Tanks are never very bright unless you have some great florescent lighting.

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I don't really pay too much attention to light cycles. The thing I do is that I turn on the lights when I wake up for school (anywhere from 8-8:15 am) and turn them off at night when I take her out of her enclosure (I normally will take her out anywhere around 8-10 pm and let her chill with me till' maybe 11 pm).

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Are you using any Calcium powder? This, along with vitamin powder is important with Dragons...more so with babies.

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Of course I am. I sprinkle the Calcium powder on the greens twice a week, and sprinkle the multivitamins on the greens once a week. Every Friday I sprinkle the multivitamins on, and any day during the week I'll sprinkle the Calcium powder on, so, for example, I would sprinkle the Calcium powder on the greens on Monday, then sprinkle it on again on Wednesday.

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Like I said earlier, the change of environment may have caused your Dragon to start to brumate. It's hard to get them out of this mode sometimes once they're in it, but a very bright cage and hot temps can work. It's scary for the newbie to try and understand why their Dragon won't eat. It's kinda impossible for us to say from here, but if the top of the eyes start sinking in, you need to see a Vet ASAP.

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I'll rearrange her log to make it closer to the basking lamp so she can have hotter temps. I'll do it tonight too, there's always time. Yeah BG, you can call me a newbie at owning Beardies, 'cause I am, but I like to learn, and like to hear more and more facts to learn about something (well.. that includes reptiles LOL). BTW, what does it mean when the top of the eyes sink in?

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This is another case of "you need to know". You need to know how this Dragon was kept. People keep Dragons differently and they thrive, but if you change that, they may not. Since this is an adult, and it was bought from a "wholesaler", it might have been harder for you to find out exactly how it was raised though. Always find out how an animal was kept when you purchase it. Sometimes it does make a difference.

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I wish I knew how she was kept. She's in much better care now though, I definitely know that for a fact. If she was still with LLL she probably would've died very soon. She's getting better and better each day now, and hopefully even better once I fix her log up to make it closer to the heat source.

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You're gonna need to keep a close eye on this guy. Dragons are known to have a problem with Coccidia(they all have it). This needs to be treated quickly if it gets too high.

I found something good to read.

http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/parasitecare/

Good luck.

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Thanks BG for this helpful post, +rep xD

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Originally Posted by Big Gunns

Forgot something. Other people have stated it, but get rid of the water bowl. Get a squirt bottle and squirt the Dragon on the snout. It will dip it's head and drink.:gj:

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The water dish is for soaking just in case she needs it if she gets too hot, but I don't think that will be a problem now since it's winter time. I could just use the water dish for a food dish though, I'm going to run out of paper plates very soon LOL.

Oh BTW, what happened to the Superman photo in your avatar :O

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Originally Posted by Big Gunns

It does look a little skinny though. How long is your light cycle? This is another thing that can cause it. Also, you could bump up that basking spot a little. 125 is not too hot if it can get away from it. Make sure the cool end of the cage is not too cool also. This Dragon may have been kept in a very bright cage. Tanks are never very bright unless you have some great florescent lighting.

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I changed the log and tested the basking temps and it got as hot as 118F, almost 119F. So, would that be just fine? I don't have another log she could rest on in the cool end of the enclosure, so would I need to get one or is she fine? I do need to raise the temps on the cool side, during the day it can get up to 80F, depending how warm the room is, maybe even higher than 80F. But I noticed it being in the 78F range.

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Originally Posted by CoolioTiffany

I changed the log and tested the basking temps and it got as hot as 118F, almost 119F. So, would that be just fine? I don't have another log she could rest on in the cool end of the enclosure, so would I need to get one or is she fine? I do need to raise the temps on the cool side, during the day it can get up to 80F, depending how warm the room is, maybe even higher than 80F. But I noticed it being in the 78F range.

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No third person.


That's fine. I never did like tanks for Beardeds. That don't hold heat well. White Melamine cages work very well for Dragons. They hold heat and they're very bright. 78 is fine on the cool side.

If your Dragons eyes start sinking in, there is a good chance you have a Coccidia problem. It could be other things, but this is the most common. Just keep an eye on it. A Dragon that's brumating still looks very healthy, it's just not that active. It can be hard for the newbie to figure out if their Dragon is sick, or just brumating. If you still have an issue with it's feeding, you're gonna need to decide if you think it's sick or not. If you post pics, we may notice something you don't.

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Originally Posted by Big Gunns

No third person.


That's fine. I never did like tanks for Beardeds. That don't hold heat well. White Melamine cages work very well for Dragons. They hold heat and they're very bright. 78 is fine on the cool side.

If your Dragons eyes start sinking in, there is a good chance you have a Coccidia problem. It could be other things, but this is the most common. Just keep an eye on it. A Dragon that's brumating still looks very healthy, it's just not that active. It can be hard for the newbie to figure out if their Dragon is sick, or just brumating. If you still have an issue with it's feeding, you're gonna need to decide if you think it's sick or not. If you post pics, we may notice something you don't.

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I'm posting up pics of her on another thread I made about my Beardie. I do not have any issues now with her feeding, she ate all the crickets I left for her in her enclosure (I did see her eat them as well). It's weird that she seems to be eating more since I haven't been feeding her squash. And she's defecated yesterday and today and both were solid, so I'm really glad the feces is getting better. At one point it was VERY runny, probably diarrhea. But now it's solid, so I think the squash gave her runny poo.

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Originally Posted by CoolioTiffany

I'm posting up pics of her on another thread I made about my Beardie. I do not have any issues now with her feeding, she ate all the crickets I left for her in her enclosure (I did see her eat them as well). It's weird that she seems to be eating more since I haven't been feeding her squash. And she's defecated yesterday and today and both were solid, so I'm really glad the feces is getting better. At one point it was VERY runny, probably diarrhea. But now it's solid, so I think the squash gave her runny poo.

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If you think it was the squash, then just cut it out like you said. Hopefully this Dragon will put on a leeetle weight for yah.:gj:

im having the same problem with my female. i got her from georgia dragons and she looked healthy till i took her to the vet for a check up. the vet told me she had parasites, some rott mouth, and she was under weight. when i contacted georgia dragons they said thats normal for a female who just laid eggs and that they cant do anything about it. i got some weight on her and she started brumating and now i am afraid that she is going to die. anyways to keeo some heat in your cage try covering half of your lid it will help with humidity too.

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Originally Posted by chago11

im having the same problem with my female. i got her from georgia dragons and she looked healthy till i took her to the vet for a check up. the vet told me she had parasites, some rott mouth, and she was under weight. when i contacted georgia dragons they said thats normal for a female who just laid eggs and that they cant do anything about it. i got some weight on her and she started brumating and now i am afraid that she is going to die. anyways to keeo some heat in your cage try covering half of your lid it will help with humidity too.

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I don't think Bearded Dragons need much humidity since they live in dry climates:D

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Originally Posted by chago11

im having the same problem with my female. i got her from georgia dragons and she looked healthy till i took her to the vet for a check up. the vet told me she had parasites, some rott mouth, and she was under weight. when i contacted georgia dragons they said thats normal for a female who just laid eggs and that they cant do anything about it. i got some weight on her and she started brumating and now i am afraid that she is going to die. anyways to keeo some heat in your cage try covering half of your lid it will help with humidity too.

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They really said that? Ive had beardies from them and they seemed more than helpful. I would accept that answer from them as it is.

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Originally Posted by CoolioTiffany

I don't think Bearded Dragons need much humidity since they live in dry climates:D

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Big Gunns was just over a friends house. They breed thousands of them and they like to keep theirs at about 50%. They actually keep a little water bowl at the top of the cage to keep the humidity up a leeetle.

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Originally Posted by Beardedragon

They really said that? Ive had beardies from them and they seemed more than helpful. I would accept that answer from them as it is.

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Wouldn't**

Whos your friend Neil?

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Originally Posted by Beardedragon

Wouldn't**

Whos your friend Neil?

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Nope...not him. All BG's friends are top secret;). They are one of the top breeders in the country.

The all secret friends:bow: I can think of a few that it could be though:cool:

Beardie poop does stink a lot, and just so you know...a 55 gallon is a little small on the width in my opinion. I got a custom melamine for mine that's around 4'x2.5'x2', it holds heat really well and looks great. The downfall of melamine is that it's HEAVY.

She doesn't look too bad, I mean she could be worse...a lot worse. And it is possible someone bred her previously but parasites of some such seems more likely. And have you tried checking http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtrem...Nutrition.html, most people refuse feeding mammals to beardies for many reasons, the blood making them more aggressive (not sure if that's true or not) and high fat causing arterial plaque I can't remember. I use silkworms and crickets, silkworms have a good amount of calcium (also helps with inflammation) and moderate amounts of fat, they're pretty easy to keep they just bruise really easily and that leads to death. Don't just pick anything in green, read the nutrition content and make informed decisions about food.

Some beardies will drink from water bowls, others wont, it varies, some young dragons will drown in water (I've heard, could be a myth). Mine loves it when I pour water from a bottle into her bowl, she likes playing in the shower and splashing water everywhere (yet hates a shower head while in the tub).

She could be trying to brumate or stress can make them not eat...mine didn't eat for a week and a half after I got her but perked right up after settling in.

And the squirt bottle BG mentioned should work, or a little medicine dropper you can get for free from most pharmacies and drip the water on her nose.

Most people say keep the humidity under 50%, but no one seems to agree on the actual range of humidity. A low humidity should be fine with regular baths.

And I'm glad to hear she's doing better...I found squash gave mine the runs too...I was worried she was sick for the longest time but switched from squash when Dillons didn't have any and her poo became firm again.

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Originally Posted by Wretched Deviant

Beardie poop does stink a lot, and just so you know...a 55 gallon is a little small on the width in my opinion. I got a custom melamine for mine that's around 4'x2.5'x2', it holds heat really well and looks great. The downfall of melamine is that it's HEAVY.

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For my girl's size right now, it seems she is doing just fine in the enclosure. She isn't that active anyway, only when I let her roam around my room.

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She doesn't look too bad, I mean she could be worse...a lot worse. And it is possible someone bred her previously but parasites of some such seems more likely. And have you tried checking http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtrem...Nutrition.html, most people refuse feeding mammals to beardies for many reasons, the blood making them more aggressive (not sure if that's true or not) and high fat causing arterial plaque I can't remember. I use silkworms and crickets, silkworms have a good amount of calcium (also helps with inflammation) and moderate amounts of fat, they're pretty easy to keep they just bruise really easily and that leads to death. Don't just pick anything in green, read the nutrition content and make informed decisions about food.

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I'm starting to think that someone who had her before LLL bred her. She's starting to put on weight which I'm very glad about and she's starting to fill out that stretchy skin LOL. I have that website bookmarked on my comp BTW:gj:

I'd say the blood making them more aggressive is false. My girl is still the same girl, the same sweet girl when I got her. She has never shown aggression towards me. I baby her too much I guess LOL:D

I'm feeding her only crickets for protein, mainly because she won't eat the superworms anymore, and because the reptile store I go to (to get my feeders) don't have silkworms.

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Some beardies will drink from water bowls, others wont, it varies, some young dragons will drown in water (I've heard, could be a myth). Mine loves it when I pour water from a bottle into her bowl, she likes playing in the shower and splashing water everywhere (yet hates a shower head while in the tub).

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Mine has never drank from her water dish, so I guess I'm stuck with giving baths a lot of times during the week and hydrating her by spraying water on her snout.

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She could be trying to brumate or stress can make them not eat...mine didn't eat for a week and a half after I got her but perked right up after settling in.

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I think she was most likely going into brumation, but now she seems to be eating more, so I'm not going to worry to much. I still let her explore around my room every night to give her exercise and after 10 minutes or so she'll find a comfy spot in my room to fall asleep on or just rest on & relax.

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And the squirt bottle BG mentioned should work, or a little medicine dropper you can get for free from most pharmacies and drip the water on her nose.

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What I just use is a water bottle. I poke a hole in the cap of the water bottle and I squeeze the bottle just enough so that the water lightly goes on her snout and into her mouth.

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Most people say keep the humidity under 50%, but no one seems to agree on the actual range of humidity. A low humidity should be fine with regular baths.

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I live in Arizona where it is not humid at all, besides for now since it's raining, and I'd say the humidity in her enclosure is most likely 20% or less. I give her baths weekly and feed her things with a lot of moisture in them (greens of course, and today I fed her canalope which she absolutely loved LOL), so I don't think the humidity is too much of a problem.

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And I'm glad to hear she's doing better...I found squash gave mine the runs too...I was worried she was sick for the longest time but switched from squash when Dillons didn't have any and her poo became firm again.

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Yeah the squash really got me worried LOL, I thought she was a parasite farm:O

It's great she's doing better, was just saying if she gets large as an adult something bigger may be more appropriate. I've never heard anyone confirm the whole blood aggression thing just what I've heard...without Beautiful Dragons I think I'd be lost feeding mine, just wish I could find sites like that for other herps. And depending on how much you pay for crickies and worms you could look into online buying mine cost around $0.34 a dozen during the winter and $0.25 a dozen during the summer, silkies are still kind of expensive or I'd keep them as a staple.

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Originally Posted by Wretched Deviant

It's great she's doing better, was just saying if she gets large as an adult something bigger may be more appropriate. I've never heard anyone confirm the whole blood aggression thing just what I've heard...without Beautiful Dragons I think I'd be lost feeding mine, just wish I could find sites like that for other herps. And depending on how much you pay for crickies and worms you could look into online buying mine cost around $0.34 a dozen during the winter and $0.25 a dozen during the summer, silkies are still kind of expensive or I'd keep them as a staple.

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I would for sure upgrade her enclosure if she does get larger than she is now. I did read that a 40 gallon is the minimum you wanna go, so once she puts more weight on and it a healthy dragon I'll decide from there if she needs a bigger enclosure or not. She could just be a small girl LOL.

If there wasn't that feeding sheet then I would be semi-lost LOL, I ask beardedragon and briankm for most of the feeding stuff, then I check it over on that feeding sheet, but since they are experienced with Beardies I don't normally check back at that feeding sheet much LOL.

i am glad she is doing better. my female didnt make it.:tears:

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Originally Posted by CoolioTiffany

I would for sure upgrade her enclosure if she does get larger than she is now. I did read that a 40 gallon is the minimum you wanna go, so once she puts more weight on and it a healthy dragon I'll decide from there if she needs a bigger enclosure or not. She could just be a small girl LOL.

If there wasn't that feeding sheet then I would be semi-lost LOL, I ask beardedragon and briankm for most of the feeding stuff, then I check it over on that feeding sheet, but since they are experienced with Beardies I don't normally check back at that feeding sheet much LOL.

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You dont have to check it because we do it for you!:P That site is a dragon life saver, and the person who made it is awesome as well. They used to have a pretty nice forum set up.

Just keep up with checking on her behaviors and such, and if her stool ever comes back runny and stinky ( Signs of high Coccidia) take her to the vet.