The Kaiju thread - CB17 female Pearl Burmese Python

Hi everyone, new guy here from the UK :gj:

Just thought I'd say hi and share some pics of my baby Burm and update her progress. I'm currently setting up a 4 x 2 foot Vivexotic vivarium for her so I'll post pics when that's done too.

Here she is, as you can see she was tiny when I brought her home on December 17th
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...131_205030.jpg
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...131_205101.jpg


On January 4th
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...182022_751.jpg
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...181723_512.jpg


January 24th
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...000337_887.jpg


January 30th
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...000903_503.jpg


She's been growing well on a weekly defrost rat sized by her girth. I only plan to do this until she reaches a year old though and then move to feeding every 2 weeks and so on.

I'm also hook training her but I have to say she's been really docile since I got her so the breeder must have done a great job. She's hissed somewhat but she's never struck at me or taken a defensive pose which is good.

I'm bathing her 3 days after feeding and she had been pooping afterwards but she hasn't pooped for the last 3 rats, although she has passed urates.

I've been told not worry too much about this as there's no lump left in her so I guess she's using it all to grow. Or shes holding until she sheds next but there's no signs of blue yet. She's only shed once in my care on January 2nd.

I've kept corns as a teen but this is my first Burm at 34 so I'm looking forward to talking with you guys and learning a lot more. If you've got any advice go right ahead and let me know... Cheers ladies and gents ;)

what a stunning baby!!! excellent pickup! and welcome to the forum.
:welcome:

i don't own a burm, but i've been keeping ball pythons for over 3 years and i rescued a Corn almost a year ago. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

what a stunning baby!!! excellent pickup! and welcome to the forum.
:welcome:

i don't own a burm, but i've been keeping ball pythons for over 3 years and i rescued a Corn almost a year ago. :)

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Cheers mate. I couldn't decide between a Hypo or an Albino so I got a Hypo Albino :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

Hi everyone, new guy here from the UK :gj:

Just thought I'd say hi and share some pics of my baby Burm and update her progress. I'm currently setting up a 4 x 2 foot Vivexotic vivarium for her so I'll post pics when that's done too.

Here she is, as you can see she was tiny when I brought her home on December 17th
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...131_205030.jpg
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...131_205101.jpg


On January 4th
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...182022_751.jpg
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...181723_512.jpg


January 24th
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...000337_887.jpg


January 30th
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...000903_503.jpg


She's been growing well on a weekly defrost rat sized by her girth. I only plan to do this until she reaches a year old though and then move to feeding every 2 weeks and so on.

I'm also hook training her but I have to say she's been really docile since I got her so the breeder must have done a great job. She's hissed somewhat but she's never struck at me or taken a defensive pose which is good.

I'm bathing her 3 days after feeding and she had been pooping afterwards but she hasn't pooped for the last 3 rats, although she has passed urates.

I've been told not worry too much about this as there's no lump left in her so I guess she's using it all to grow. Or shes holding until she sheds next but there's no signs of blue yet. She's only shed once in my care on January 2nd.

I've kept corns as a teen but this is my first Burm at 34 so I'm looking forward to talking with you guys and learning a lot more. If you've got any advice go right ahead and let me know... Cheers ladies and gents ;)

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Thats my soft spot right there.. Gotta love Burms. Such beautiful, Cool Gentile Giants. You might think about feeding every other week after 6 mos otherwise you'll have a 8Ft Burm next January hahahaha. Congrats & Welcome to the Club [emoji1360]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

Thats my soft spot right there.. Gotta love Burms. Such beautiful, Cool Gentile Giants. You might think about feeding every other week after 6 mos otherwise you'll have a 8Ft Burm next January hahahaha. Congrats & Welcome to the Club [emoji1360]

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Thanks, she's a real beauty :D I've been researching a lot and suggested feeding frequency varies online. Does she look to be growing at a healthy rate? And is it unhealthy to feed once a week up to 1 year old?

First and foremost her health is the most important thing but if she can be big and healthy that's the ideal.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

Thanks, she's a real beauty :D I've been researching a lot and suggested feeding frequency varies online. Does she look to be growing at a healthy rate? And is it unhealthy to feed once a week up to 1 year old?

First and foremost her health is the most important thing but if she can be big and healthy that's the ideal.

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She looks awesome [emoji1362][emoji1362]. As far as feeding it isnt unhealthy to feed her every week it is just preference. The thing about Burms is that they grow really fast... Some people rather have them grow a bit slower. When mine were young I fed a lot less (every other week) than todays standards even as a hatchling so it took a couple years to reach 8ft... You can reach that a lot quicker with feeding more frequently. Some also think a slower growth is healthier but I believe that to be more for the smaller Pythons like Balls.
As I'm sure you know a Female can reach 20ft. You can stretch that Growth out for 20 years and still have a healthy snake by feeding a appropriate size EOW and once a adult every 21-30 days.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

She looks awesome [emoji1362][emoji1362]. As far as feeding it isnt unhealthy to feed her every week it is just preference. The thing about Burms is that they grow really fast... Some people rather have them grow a bit slower. When mine were young I fed a lot less (every other week) than todays standards even as a hatchling so it took a couple years to reach 8ft... You can reach that a lot quicker with feeding more frequently. Some also think a slower growth is healthier but I believe that to be more for the smaller Pythons like Balls.
As I'm sure you know a Female can reach 20ft. You can stretch that Growth out for 20 years and still have a healthy snake by feeding a appropriate size EOW and once a adult every 21-30 days.

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Ah that's good to hear. I was worried it might shorten her lifespan because I think breeding 'age' is determined by size if i recall. So I wasn't sure if faster or slower growth would accelerate or slow down burm aging - if that makes sense? Lol.

Do you mean 6 months of age or 6 months of being with me? Because the exotics store I bought her from said they think she hatched July/August time (they got her from a breeder). So she would be 5/6 months old now. But looking at the growth she's had with me I would have thought she was maybe younger than that or was fed less often before me?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

Ah that's good to hear. I was worried it might shorten her lifespan because I think breeding 'age' is determined by size if i recall. So I wasn't sure if faster or slower growth would accelerate or slow down burm aging - if that makes sense? Lol.

Do you mean 6 months of age or 6 months of being with me? Because the exotics store I bought her from said they think she hatched July/August time (they got her from a breeder). So she would be 5/6 months old now. But looking at the growth she's had with me I would have thought she was maybe younger than that or was fed less often before me?

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Breeders feed slower so that they dont grow like weeds before they sell. It wont hinder her at all.. Snakes are amazing like that. You can under-feed a snake for 3 years then slowly pick up feeding and they will end up where they would have been if you fed regularly the whole time. As far as the sux month thing thats of no concern.. You can do whatever you like. Burms aren't problem feeders like some snakes are.. So feed every week for 4 or 6 months if you like and then if you want to go every other week later you can do that or not. There will be a time when she slows down as she gets older.. Mine all slowed down after 3 years. Then it was once a month depending. After 5 years Ive had them go off feed for 3 months and still never loose enough weight to notice.. Of course by then they are eating a 10lb Rabbit no problem hahahha

Also thats good your hook training... No matter how docile of a temperament. When she is 10'-12'-15' you want a way to let her know when you open the door its a time when feeding is not part of you reaching in. A Bite from a Burm 6' or 15' is nothing to laugh about hahahahaha.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

Also thats good your hook training... No matter how docile of a temperament. When she is 10'-12'-15' you want a way to let her know when you open the door its a time when feeding is not part of you reaching in. A Bite from a Burm 6' or 15' is nothing to laugh about hahahahaha.

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Ha ha I can imagine those bites being no joke. How old are your burms now and how often do you think these guys feed in the wild?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

Ha ha I can imagine those bites being no joke. How old are your burms now and how often do you think these guys feed in the wild?

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In the wild Id have no Idea how often they feed.. I assume whenever they have the opportunity. They don't mind eating a little extra... All the reading and Video's ive seen on wild Burms show them taking down big prey as adults so they might go months after that. My Burms are Old, 20 and 24. Some pics are in my Profile Album. They start 20 years ago on Film so they're not that great. My Albino I just donated 5/6 months ago to our Local Zoo here in NY. As much as Ive had my eyes on all these Hatchlings (and my friend has been breeding too) I Cant help but feel so many wont have homes someday when they are 15'-20'. I dont think the 18/24 yr old Kids that are buying them understand what its like to have a Snake that large and have a Family and other responsibilities too. Its not the money, its the time, space, secure room and all you need to have. It becomes a lot once you have a couple kids, wife, dogs etc....
Here is a Pic of my buddy Matt with his 18ft girl. He fed her like nuts because he breeds his feeders so she grew like this within a few years. He has a Youtube page if you want to check him out. He has two 5/6 month olds and 4 adults.... Not to mention the 16 Retics.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e01961f984.png

Yeah I know Drthik and Cornflake ha ha, he's got great content on YouTube. I also like his Retics Zulu and Moses.

I know what you mean about people not taking things seriously with the giants. On YouTube you see thousands of Retics being hatched each year by the big breeders. I cant help wonder what happens to them all?

I weighed things up for a long time and planned ahead. That's why she's my only snake because I know she's going to be a behemoth.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

Yeah I know Drthik and Cornflake ha ha, he's got great content on YouTube. I also like his Retics Zulu and Moses.

I know what you mean about people not taking things seriously with the giants. On YouTube you see thousands of Retics being hatched each year by the big breeders. I cant help wonder what happens to them all?

I weighed things up for a long time and planned ahead. That's why she's my only snake because I know she's going to be a behemoth.

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Yup thats him.. & and Im really referring to the kids (18-24) At least kids to me hahahaha.

Ha ha trust me I'm starting to feel that way too, age just creeps up on you man.

I'm entertaining the idea of getting another Burm in a few years but that's a long way off and dependent on circumstances. Everyone's crazy for morphs but I think a big wild type is awesome too.

Retics look great as well but I have to be realistic and see what happens with space and time.

Ok guys, got a quick update. I hit the reptile and hardware stores today for a few enclosure supplies

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...202-163931.jpg

Everything's wired up and sealed with aquarium grade sealant. I'm gonna give the sealant a week to cure (label says 48 hours but I'd rather wait longer). Then I'm gonna add decor and run temps for a week just to make sure everything's on point and I don't fry my snake.

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...224454-001.jpg

Over here in the UK one of the best thermostats is the Microclimate Evo so I picked one of them up too. I guess it's kind of our version of the Herpstat. You can set multiple temperature changes throughout the day and control lights and foggers etc.

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...202-224525.jpg
I'll add another update once the sealant has cured and I've added decor :)

So this girl shed a few days ago and damn near took a rat's head off lol. I bathed her tonight and still no poop. She's acting chill and healthy though.

I've also set her up in her 4 x 2 viv after spending a week calibrating the temps. After researching I opted not to have a night time drop as the thermal gradient will allow her to thermo regulate anyway. White Python LEDs are on a 12 hour cycle and dimmed down a tad as they're really powerful.

The stat is set to 30C / 86F, however I've measured the areas below with a temp gun and set the stat to achieve them in-line with my research:

35C / 95F on top of the warm hide
27C / 80.6F inside the warm hide
24C / 75.2F on the cool side
24C / 75.2F inside the cool hide

I have a couple of questions though. The CHE guard is 45C / 113F at it's hottest point but I can touch it. And the ambient relative humidity is reading 96%. The humidity level is due to the 2.5 litres of water I've provided for her to bathe in / drink but the enclosure is not 'wet' this is the air level only. Ive read that Burms can tolerate high humidity as long as the cage isn't wet but in your opinion are these two numbers too high?

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...207-212757.jpg http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...208-010831.jpghttp://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-203443.jpg http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-203500.jpg http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-203729.jpg http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-225021.png http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-235455.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

So this girl shed a few days ago and damn near took a rat's head off lol. I bathed her tonight and still no poop. She's acting chill and healthy though.

I've also set her up in her 4 x 2 viv after spending a week calibrating the temps. After researching I opted not to have a night time drop as the thermal gradient will allow her to thermo regulate anyway. White Python LEDs are on a 12 hour cycle and dimmed down a tad as they're really powerful.

The stat is set to 30C / 86F, however I've measured the areas below with a temp gun and set the stat to achieve them in-line with my research:

35C / 95F on top of the warm hide
27C / 80.6F inside the warm hide
24C / 75.2F on the cool side
24C / 75.2F inside the cool hide

I have a couple of questions though. The CHE guard is 45C / 113F at it's hottest point but I can touch it. And the ambient relative humidity is reading 96%. The humidity level is due to the 2.5 litres of water I've provided for her to bathe in / drink but the enclosure is not 'wet' this is the air level only. Ive read that Burms can tolerate high humidity as long as the cage isn't wet but in your opinion are these two numbers too high?

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...207-212757.jpg http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...208-010831.jpghttp://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-203443.jpg http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-203500.jpg http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-203729.jpg http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-225021.png http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-235455.jpg

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That thermometer [emoji7]

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

So this girl shed a few days ago and damn near took a rat's head off lol. I bathed her tonight and still no poop. She's acting chill and healthy though.

I've also set her up in her 4 x 2 viv after spending a week calibrating the temps. After researching I opted not to have a night time drop as the thermal gradient will allow her to thermo regulate anyway. White Python LEDs are on a 12 hour cycle and dimmed down a tad as they're really powerful.

The stat is set to 30C / 86F, however I've measured the areas below with a temp gun and set the stat to achieve them in-line with my research:

35C / 95F on top of the warm hide
27C / 80.6F inside the warm hide
24C / 75.2F on the cool side
24C / 75.2F inside the cool hide

I have a couple of questions though. The CHE guard is 45C / 113F at it's hottest point but I can touch it. And the ambient relative humidity is reading 96%. The humidity level is due to the 2.5 litres of water I've provided for her to bathe in / drink but the enclosure is not 'wet' this is the air level only. Ive read that Burms can tolerate high humidity as long as the cage isn't wet but in your opinion are these two numbers too high?

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...207-212757.jpg http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...208-010831.jpghttp://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-203443.jpg http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-203500.jpg http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-203729.jpg http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-225021.png http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...209-235455.jpg

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Looks Great Bro[emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360]
As far as a couple things you asked opions on.
96% is way above what you want and will cause health issues. 60% is perfect.
I use large 5 quart bowls but i cant remember your Sq Ft of your enclosure. Mine are 4'x2'x2' and 8'x30"x36". Im thinking the fact that you use the wood substrate has raised the humidity as i always use Kraft Paper, or it isn't measuring correctly? 96% would fog the glass at least mine does over 75%.
You may decide to switch over in the future to Paper as she grows... the piss mine let out as adults would be so much it ruined all that substrate anyways lol.
The other thing i wanted to mention was the Top of the hide temp. I think you'll find as i have if the Hide Top is 95 the snake will also end up close to 95 because their body absorbs it like Radiant heat. I had my thermometer probe on the floor inside the hide and it would reach the temp i had my Tstat set to, 91F, However the Top of my hide from my RHP panel was 94F (because its closer to the heating element) so I then started to use a Laser against my snakes body (not from a distance right against it) and she matched the Top of the Hide temp not the Floor temp. Thats something to think about and test for yourself. The way to make sure your getting the best reading is when you have left the enclosure closed for a full 24 hrs and its regulated, also check it during the day when its warmest as every enclosure has drafts or leaks heat and night time temp drops can effect this reading. You really want to know the Hottest temp so you can adjust it accordingly. In my experience, both my Burms preferred 86-88max Hot and 76min cool.
With this said I love the setup, its really looks Hot [emoji1360] Great Job !!!!!


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PS: where is the Probe for the Thermometer that has the Humidity? I think I see it on the Left side. If its next to the water you'll get a false reading, or if its near the ground they can read water dripped if the snake was swimming. Make sure the probe is in a place it cant get messed with or splashed etc... [emoji1360]


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

PS: where is the Probe for the Thermometer that has the Humidity? I think I see it on the Left side. If its next to the water you'll get a false reading, or if its near the ground they can read water dripped if the snake was swimming. Make sure the probe is in a place it cant get messed with or splashed etc... [emoji1360]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Cheers mate. I actually made some changes since testing more. I moved the thermometer probe so it's hanging dead centre high in the middle of the enclosure. I also moved the exo terra warm hide to the back as they're really good at absorbing heat and it was reaching 40C under the heater which is too high imo.

The basking area is bare now and reaches 35C in the day with a drop to 30C at night to mimic the temp drop in nature. In this position the top of the warm hide reaches the same temps as the basking area directly below the heater. So she has the choice to bask on top of the hide partially hidden by plants or in the open (she's pretty confident being in the open). Or she can go in the hide which is a couple degrees cooler.

I dumped out half the water so its a shallow pool now. Humidity was down to 80% but went back up to 90% when i moved the warm hide. The substrate is 2 expanded eco earth bricks with bark and sphagnum moss scattered on top. The heater is drying the substrate out and some condensation has started to form however at this rate I believe the humidity will drop further as the sub dries out. And the heater seems to be doing this very quickly. Next time I'm going to buy the eco earth in the dry bag. When she's bigger I'll definitely use paper.

The good news is she pooped finally after eating four rats in the weeks since the last time so the setup is doing her good.

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...211-014116.jpg

The health problems you mention have got me worried now so I'm going to change it all out for the dry bark I have tomorrow.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

Cheers mate. I actually made some changes since testing more. I moved the thermometer probe so it's hanging dead centre high in the middle of the enclosure. I also moved the exo terra warm hide to the back as they're really good at absorbing heat and it was reaching 40C under the heater which is too high imo.

The basking area is bare now and reaches 35C in the day with a drop to 30C at night to mimic the temp drop in nature. In this position the top of the warm hide reaches the same temps as the basking area directly below the heater. So she has the choice to bask on top of the hide partially hidden by plants or in the open (she's pretty confident being in the open). Or she can go in the hide which is a couple degrees cooler.

I dumped out half the water so its a shallow pool now. Humidity was down to 80% but went back up to 90% when i moved the warm hide. The substrate is 2 expanded eco earth bricks with bark and sphagnum moss scattered on top. The heater is drying the substrate out and some condensation has started to form however at this rate I believe the humidity will drop further as the sub dries out. And the heater seems to be doing this very quickly. Next time I'm going to buy the eco earth in the dry bag. When she's bigger I'll definitely use paper.

The good news is she pooped finally after eating four rats in the weeks since the last time so the setup is doing her good.

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...211-014116.jpg

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Thats great to hear. Sounds like your familiar with how to see your way around the little Hic-Ups :)
Looks to me like she has a great environment and keeper. Nothing better than that. I look forward to seeing your updates throughout the year [emoji1360]
Awesome looking Burm!!!!


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So I took out the eco earth, vacuumed and dried the enclosure. The substrate is now dry orchid bark with a smaller bowl.

But its still reading 86% humidity. The probe is right as the read out dropped to 60% when I took it out.

This enclosure has front flow ventilation on the top and bottom and they're widely used and well reviewed.

Is this still too high for a Burm? Loads of people even use these for desert species without issues.

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...211-133957.jpg http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...211-121023.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

So I took out the eco earth, vacuumed and dried the enclosure. The substrate is now dry orchid bark with a smaller bowl.

But its still reading 86% humidity. The probe is right as the read out dropped to 60% when I took it out.

This enclosure has front flow ventilation on the top and bottom and they're widely used and well reviewed.

Is this still too high for a Burm? Loads of people even use these for desert species without issues.

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...211-133957.jpg http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...211-121023.jpg

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It sounds to me like your home is a higher Humidity than most. My home is 30-40% so my enclosure with a large bowl is 58-62.
Yes 85 is to high. During shed 70-75% is ok, but then needs to return to a average of 60%. Test your house/room for a hour and if your room Humidity is what the snake needs you'll have to find a way to vent without hurting that sweet enclosure.


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Yeah the average humidity in the UK is 50 - 60%. A guy I know uses the same pro rep substrate, enclosure and heating system. He said although the bark feels dry to the touch it does contain moisture but that will drop over the next week as it dries out. I'll monitor it and update :)

There is moisture under the substrate but I'm releasing the humidity periodically by opening the doors. This should drop over the next few days from what I'm told.

Thinking about it this is a good thing. I mean, this is actually very similar to what happens in nature after a shower.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

There is moisture under the substrate but I'm releasing the humidity periodically by opening the doors. This should drop over the next few days from what I'm told.

Thinking about it this is a good thing. I mean, this is actually very similar to what happens in nature after a shower.

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Its only good over 60% when shedding. In nature Burms find a dryer area afyer swimming etc... High Humidity for snakes that require 50-60% & dry bedding will cause Scale Rot.. Also it could possibly cause respiratory probs if prolonged. I think you'll need a dryer bedding and some Vets. If she has to lay in Damp Substrate for days every time you replace it until it dries again you'll have trouble.


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Yeah I think I'll get a drier bedding like lignocel or even still use bark but bake it off first.

When I said 'shower' I meant a rain shower. I've been researching their distribution, for example the rainy season in Thailand is from May until October. Right now the relative humidity in Thailand is 93%.

The substrate isn't damp. The bark is dry to the touch but it is expressing the moisture held within it. You'd have to see it and touch it to know what I mean.

Ok I did write a post but it looks like it didn't process. She's on paper towels now 63% humidity. Going to change to aspen after her next poop as shes been stressed out enough.

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...212-012823.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

Ok I did write a post but it looks like it didn't process. She's on paper towels now 63% humidity. Going to change to aspen after her next poop as shes been stressed out enough.

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forum...212-012823.jpg

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Good idea [emoji1360]
I know theres high humidity in the wild during Rain season but they also have unregulated space to find a dry spot that suits them.. I think your making a good decision by trying a dryer substrate. A good swim will raise the humidity a lot too when she starts getting around a little more in her enclosure so its always been best for me to keep it average so its not to over the top when they party & splash at night :)


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Ha ha, hopefully things work out. You always hear about humid substrates and misting being required. Yeah if you live in the desert maybe lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

Ha ha, hopefully things work out. You always hear about humid substrates and misting being required. Yeah if you live in the desert maybe lol.

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Hahahaha. Yeah my home is 32% right now. Its 16 degrees outside and my Forced air Heat will dry your lips like a old Prune hahahahahaha


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

Ha ha, hopefully things work out. You always hear about humid substrates and misting being required. Yeah if you live in the desert maybe lol.

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I think when they say that, they're talking about humid substrates and misting required for a glass tank (most of these care sheets seem to have been written before PVC cages were popular) .....an enclosure sealed like yours should only require paper substrate. Indented kraft paper is the bee's knees btw (just order a big roll of it on amazon)....or newspaper works well.

Personally, I prefer the look of aspen over paper but it's just so messy. I always find myself vacuuming. Kraft paper for me.

Yeah I really like the look of bark but it's too humid when it sweats under the heat. Aspen looks good too though.

What are you guys using as your day time and night time temps?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

Yeah I really like the look of bark but it's too humid when it sweats under the heat. Aspen looks good too though.

What are you guys using as your day time and night time temps?

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My male pearl Burm will be provided with an 80F ambient temperature, with a 92F hotspot during the day.

78F ambient 90F hotspot at night.

I use radiant heat panels in my cages and I believe CALM does as well

....note: My cage is all ready to go but due to cold temperatures where I live, my Burm cannot be shipped for several weeks yet and I havent gotten around to making the 9 hour one-way car ride to pick him up yet....he'll be here soon enough

Quote:

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Originally Posted by KevinK

My male pearl Burm will be provided with an 80F ambient temperature, with a 92F hotspot during the day.

78F ambient 90F hotspot at night.

I use radiant heat panels in my cages and I believe CALM does as well

....note: My cage is all ready to go but due to cold temperatures where I live, my Burm cannot be shipped for several weeks yet and I havent gotten around to making the 9 hour one-way car ride to pick him up yet....he'll be here soon enough

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Mine stopped using the Hot Side so i kicked it down to 88-90F & I couldn't believe they traveled over there by the next morning like they received a memo lol.. Been there ever since too after being Cool Side junkies.
I think all this 91 degree preaching is a couple degrees to warm for most of them.. Not to mention if you have RHP's the top of a Large and XL hide is tall so closer to the RHP and reaches 94.5/95F easy. They don't like that. Seems 88/89 FL TEMP is perfection in my experience.


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Those night temps are pretty spot on for me. Daytime is a little warmer but she can cool down throughout the gradient should she choose to.

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

Those night temps are pretty spot on for me. Daytime is a little warmer but she can cool down throughout the gradient should she choose to.

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Glad everything is going good.. Hows she doing at night? Is she coming out and doing Snake stuff? Exploring etc...


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Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

Glad everything is going good.. Hows she doing at night? Is she coming out and doing Snake stuff? Exploring etc...


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Yeah mate, she comes out at night to explore but stays hidden during the day. I've dimmed the LEDs down during the day too. Got a new thermo hygrometer that seems really accurate (those high and low numbers were from before I put it in the enclosure so don't worry ha ha). https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...205906_110.jpg

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

Yeah mate, she comes out at night to explore but stays hidden during the day. I've dimmed the LEDs down during the day too. Got a new thermo hygrometer that seems really accurate (those high and low numbers were from before I put it in the enclosure so don't worry ha ha). https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...205906_110.jpg

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Good deal bro... Looks Good to me [emoji1360][emoji1360]


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So it turns out the previous cheap thermo hygrometer i got on eBay was really inaccurate and this new one shows the correct humidity. So I've put her back on bark and she's loving it.

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...004827_503.jpg

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

So it turns out the previous cheap thermo hygrometer i got on eBay was really inaccurate and this new one shows the correct humidity. So I've put her back on bark and she's loving it.

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...004827_503.jpg

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I figured there was no way it was 90% in there but I wouldn't have a clue what the UK is like so I wasn't going to suggest things Im not familiar with. At that % it would of been Fogged unbelievably hahahaha. Glad that got solved.. Now when she takes a big piss and the wood smells like dead fish you'll be thinking about taking it all back out hahahahahaha. I love the look of the Wood, but its to easy for me to clean the Corrugated craft paper or the Regular Kraft paper so i stick to that. I worry about bacteria too so for me its better not to drive myself crazy lol.


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Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

I figured there was no way it was 90% in there but I wouldn't have a clue what the UK is like so I wasn't going to suggest things Im not familiar with. At that % it would of been Fogged unbelievably hahahaha. Glad that got solved.. Now when she takes a big piss and the wood smells like dead fish you'll be thinking about taking it all back out hahahahahaha. I love the look of the Wood, but its to easy for me to clean the Corrugated craft paper or the Regular Kraft paper so i stick to that. I worry about bacteria too so for me its better not to drive myself crazy lol.


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If snakes hunt at evening and night then we feed them at this time right? So is it not bad to have a night time temp drop cos they won't digest properly?

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

If snakes hunt at evening and night then we feed them at this time right? So is it not bad to have a night time temp drop cos they won't digest properly?

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Nighttime temps drops are only for breeding purposes.


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Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

Nighttime temps drops are only for breeding purposes.


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Both of my books and a few people online have said a night drop is ok for all burms.

I decided to have a day temp of 35C going down to 31C at night so she can experience cooler temps but also digest. The cold side sits around 24C regardless.

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

Both of my books and a few people online have said a night drop is ok for all burms.

I decided to have a day temp of 35C going down to 31C at night so she can experience cooler temps but also digest. The cold side sits around 24C regardless.

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A Conversion from Celsius to Fahrenheit on my phone says 35 Celsius is 95 Fahrenheit.. Thats to hot. The max is 91. There are all kinds of thing people say online, I can only Speak from the 2 burms Ive owned, A 24 yr old normal and a 21 yr old Albino this year.. I get my info from their Breeders who have 40+ years in business alone .
31C is 75F.. My lowest temp is 76 and thats only when its very cold at night here in NY, like Negative -10, otherwise my nighttime temp is 78 at night and 80 day on Coolside.
You can try what works best for you.. But I strongly suggest keeping your Hottest Temp 32/33C ( 91/91.5F) because of proven neurological problems from being too warm. A Burm will survive a cold temp much easier than a Hot temp. [emoji1360]


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Originally Posted by CALM Pythons

A Conversion from Celsius to Fahrenheit on my phone says 35 Celsius is 95 Fahrenheit.. Thats to hot. The max is 91. There are all kinds of thing people say online, I can only Speak from the 2 burms Ive owned, A 24 yr old normal and a 21 yr old Albino this year.. I get my info from their Breeders who have 40+ years in business alone .
31C is 75F.. My lowest temp is 76 and thats only when its very cold at night here in NY, like Negative -10, otherwise my nighttime temp is 78 at night and 80 day on Coolside.
You can try what works best for you.. But I strongly suggest keeping your Hottest Temp 32/33C ( 91/91.5F) because of proven neurological problems from being too warm. A Burm will survive a cold temp much easier than a Hot temp. [emoji1360]


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I can see where you're coming from but those temps are directly over the basking area with the cold side going down to 24C at all times. So she can choose where she wants to be, giving her more options for thermal-regulation.

Bob Clark says here that even a basking area over 100F is perfectly acceptable as long as the snake can retreat to a cooler area if it chooses and he's been keeping burms for over 30 years. Even bred the first albinos in the hobby:

http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care...urmese-Python/

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Originally Posted by Valaryan

I can see where you're coming from but those temps are directly over the basking area with the cold side going down to 24C at all times. So she can choose where she wants to be, giving her more options for thermal-regulation.

Bob Clark says here that even a basking area over 100F is perfectly acceptable as long as the snake can retreat to a cooler area if it chooses and he's been keeping burms for over 30 years. Even bred the first albinos in the hobby:

http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care...urmese-Python/

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Bob is who my Albino came from. I txt him sometimes when I have questions etc.. Notice in the first paragraph he says Burms prefer temps in the Mid 80's.. The last part about 100F is if you need that to keep your cool side ambient.. The reason I suggest lowering it to 91F is because young Burms use hides and we keep a Hide on the Hot Side and one on the Cool side.. A Burm Hatchling will choose to stay in the Hide even if the Temp is a bit to high for security over a hide that might be to cool. Once that Burm is grown you wont be using a Hide. At that point the burm will lay at either side or even the middle to get a comfortable temp. As for now Im just giving you the best info I know for a young one that uses 2 hides, a Hot or a Cold [emoji1360]


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Ah yeah I guess if there's only two hides that makes sense. But I've got two hides on either side plus a half cork log in the middle so she can move up and down the thermal gradient whilst under cover.

I just checked and the hottest area is hitting 33C. I think if I had the whole enclosure at 33C that would be a problem but 24 to 33C should be fine (75.2 - 91.4F).