How to set up a PVC cage (AP T8) With Pictures!

I've seen a good number of people on here ask questions about PVC cages so I figured that I would post a thread on how I set up my PVC Cages (Animal Plastics T8's/T12's).

Some PVC cages come pre-assembled or are made from a single piece of plastic (boaphiles, and visions are good examples of this style). Others come disassembled to save you money on shipping (Animal Plastics)

I use Animal Plastics cages so I have to assemble them when they arrive. this is very simple and usually takes 10-15 minutes. Their directions are very good and all that is required is a phillips head screwdriver.

Heating:

There are 2 ways to heat a PVC cage: Flexwatt & Radiant Heat Panels

Flexwatt: is my preferred choice to heat PVC cages it is cheap and most PVC cage manufactures will have an option to have the cage set up with it. Flexwatt is taped to the bottom of the outside of the cage and will increase the temperature of the floor of the cage directly over it. Flexwatt does not however greatly affect the air temperature inside the cage. When using flexwatt you must keep the layer of substrate as thin as possible since the heat has to get through it. I suggest using paper towels/newspaper/butchers paper/corrugated wrap when using flexwatt.

Radiant Heat Panels: are mounted to the top of the inside of the cage and heat everything below them (very similar to heat lamps but do not kill the cage humidity) Radiant Heat Panels are nice of you want to use a thick layer of substrate as the heat is coming from above and not below like with flexwatt.

Humidity:

PVC cages hold humidity in great. My cages stay around 60% without having to mist (I do live in an area where the humidity is very high though) Humidity can be raised by misting, or by drilling holes into the cage and using PVC pipe to route the output of a humidifier into the cage.

Lighting:

Your snake does not need any lights in the cage but the cage will be dark without one. I use white fluorescent lights in my cages, they are mounted to the top of the inside of the cage.

Cage Locks:

Some PVC cages require locks to keep the door in place while others do not. The Animal Plastic cages do not need cage locks but are a nice feature.

This is what they look like

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0460.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0461.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0462.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0463.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0464.jpg

How to Set Up a PVC Cage (specifically an Animal Plastics T8)

What you will Need:

• A PVC cage (I prefer the Animal Plastics T8 4'x2'x1' for ball pythons)
• A heat source (flexwatt or a Radiant Heat Panel)
• A Thermostat to regulate your heat source (Proportional thermostats are preferred I like herpstats)
• A digital thermometer with probe (2 if you are using a divider in your cage)
• Substrate of your choosing
• 2 or more hides
• A water dish
• And any additional cage decor that you want
• *Optional* a fluorescent light (2 if you are using the divider)

To set up a T8 first you need to decide wether you want to use a divider to create 2 separate enclosures or use the full enclosure for 1 snake.
I will be showing how to set up a T8 with the divider but will also explain how to set up a T8 for use without a divider as well.

When using a divider and flexwatt you need to tape the flexwatt to the center of the cage so it can provide a hot spot on both sides of the divider

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0439.jpg

You can see where the flexwatt should go on the right side of the cage if you are not using the divider. as well as the slot where the thermostat probe goes

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0441.jpg

The back of the cage will look something like this:

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0442.jpg

Here you can see the Flexwatt's power cord and the thermostat probe's cord

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0445.jpg

I drill holes for my thermometer probe's cord (this is not required but makes the cage look cleaner)

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0446.jpg

Animal Plastics drills holes for the power cord of fluorescent lights if you order them with the cage

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0447.jpg

This is what the cage looks like without the divider or glass doors on

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0448.jpg

This is the divider (can be taken out and put back in as needed)

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0449.jpg

Here is the cage with the divider in place

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0450.jpg

As I mentioned before I drill holes for my thermometer probes... this is how i mount them

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0451.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0452.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0453.jpg

At this point you should put in whatever substrate/hides/water dishes/decor that you are going to use. (I keep a very minimalistic set up but you can decorate the cage as much or as little as you want)

This is one side I have a 350 gram female pastel ball python in

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0455.jpg

And here is the full cage (the other side houses my year old carpet python)

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0458.jpg

Once you have your cage set up the way that you like it, it's time to get the temperatures right. Wether you are using flexwatt, a Radiant heat panel or both a thermostat is a must.

Flexwatt: Because the flexwatt is on the outside of the cage an the thermostat probe is attached to the flexwatt you will have to set the thermostat to a temperature above 90 so the heat can penetrate the bottom of the cage and heat the floor of the cage. (mine are set in the low 100's)

Radiant Heat Pannel: The thermostat probe will need to be secured inside the cage directly under the Radiant Heat Panel. the thermostat will then be set to 90 degrees.

Both Flexwatt and a Radiant Heat Panel: This is the best option if your room is cold, the flexwatt will provide the hot spot and the radiant heat panel will maintain the rest of the cage at 80 degrees. it requires 2 thermostats. The radiant heat panel will do fine with a hydrofarm/ranco thermostat (non-proportional) but the flexwatt should still be used with a proportional thermostat. This set up costs less than using 2 separate proportional thermostats. another option is the Herpstat 2. The herpstat 2 has2 separate thermostats in 1 box.

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...t/IMG_0342.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...t/c22733cf.jpg

If you have any questions feel free to post them below or send me a PM

I don't have a T8, but solid write up!

Aaron is the man!!!!!!

Very nice! I am in the process of setting up a pvc enclosure for my GTP and this give me some ideas! Thanks! :gj:

Next time I get a new cage I will video tape/take pictures of the assembly process and post them on this thread... I'll probably be getting another late summer :D

Thanks. Great writeup, you pretty much answered just about every question I had.

Excellent idea Aaron. I would sticky this in the caging section. I see many people asking about PVC cages...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike41793

Excellent idea Aaron. I would sticky this in the caging section. I see many people asking about PVC cages...

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I don't think I have the power to do that, if I do I guess I could.

Great post!

I have one question, Is they easy to un-assemble again?
When moving or etc,.
:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Natassja

Great post!

I have one question, Is they easy to un-assemble again?
When moving or etc,.
:)

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So far I haven't had to unassembled one, (I will though in the next few years though) it should be just as easy to dissemble with the exception that you will have to remove the sealant on the bottom joints on the inside of the cage that you apply to make the cage water tight. it will probably take awhile but shouldn't be too hard. (you don't have to seal the bottom section, but it is a good idea too (you don't want a spilled water dish or snake urine to seep into the cracks and possibly even leaking completely out of the cage)

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...t/00dcc07e.jpg

Thanks for the answer and being so on ponit :)

A T8 seems really big for me. Which size is good for a single BP, She is small now, But I like to invest in sometging lasting for years, and animal plastics seems the way to go!

The T8 is actually the perfect size, I use a divider for young BP's, but full grown BP's enjoy the full thing. You could get a T3 (3x2x1) or any of the other 1 foot tall T series cages but that actually cost more so you might as well get the T8

You can also house 2 BP's in 1 T8 when using the divider

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

The T8 is actually the perfect size, I use a divider for young BP's, but full grown BP's enjoy the full thing. You could get a T3 (3x2x1) or any of the other 1 foot tall T series cages but that actually cost more so you might as well get the T8

You can also house 2 BP's in 1 T8 when using the divider

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Alright. Ill send you a Pm, right before next payday!
Need some more intel :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Natassja

Alright. Ill send you a Pm, right before next payday!
Need some more intel :)

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All right, I'll keep an eye out for you

We really need to Sticky this thread. Awesome job Aaron!

I dont know If im suppose to make a new thread or just continue on this, but need some advice on setup..

:)

You might as well ask here if your question is about setting up a PVC cage.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Natassja

I dont know If im suppose to make a new thread or just continue on this, but need some advice on setup..

:)

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Send me a PM

Or ask here either works

Great write up! This is very helpful.


I've been considering a pvc cage for two of my balls. They tend not to hide as much as the others and display well.

So the T8 is the shorter one of your cages? Which model is the taller cage?
Thanks!

Yes the short cage pictured is the T8 (4 x 2 x 1 foot) the taller cage is the T12 (4 x 2 x 2 foot)

Wow kinda weird but i just decided to get the T8 and i was looking for a good review and this thread totally helped...Thanx for all the info Aaron I'm gonna order my T8 tomorrow morning

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Skull&Bones

Wow kinda weird but i just decided to get the T8 and i was looking for a good review and this thread totally helped...Thanx for all the info Aaron I'm gonna order my T8 tomorrow morning

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I'm glad it helped. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Awesome write-up and great pictures! I'm considering getting a couple of these in the future and this was very helpful! :gj: I was just wondering how heavy they are and how easy they are to move around?

They aren't too heavy, my guess would be somewhere around 20-30 lbs. 1 person can move a T8 without issue but 2 people makes it much easier (just because of the bulk) they are easy to assemble and dissemble so if needed that is another option.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

This is the divider (can be taken out and put back in as needed)

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0449.jpg

Here is the cage with the divider in place

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0450.jpg

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Hello again! Whats holding the divider in place? it is some kind of slot?
also, if you divide the cage , but still need secondary heating in form of a radiant heat panel to keep appropriate ambient heat.

How would one go about heating the whole cage, with only one RHP and with the divider in place?

Airholes in the actuall divider?
Maybe cut out a slot in the divider so it fits the RHP(which are mounted to the roof directly above divider)

any suggestions ? or any other heating possibilitys that isnt as pricy as two RDP? Planning on having 2 juv Blood Pythons in a T8 style cage

thanks!

The divider (and the rest of the cage) is manufactured using a computerized milling machine. this means that they can make extremely precise parts. The divider simply pops in. no grove, or anything else. this is nice because it means you can split the cage in any ratio that you want (50/50, 60/40, 70/30, etc...) AP at least does offer the option to cut a slot for the divider, and include screws to make it permeant. (I might be getting a cage like this next time I order one)

RHP's when using the divider becomes an interesting situation. the best option is to just get 2 smaller RHP's. But you could cut a slot in the divider and mount one larger RHP in the center as well. Make sure that the slot is cut deep enough that there is some air space between the RHP and the top of the divider, as RHP's can achieve relatively high surface temperatures. (make the slot as deep as you can, without allowing the snakes to get through it. I would say 2-3 inches would be enough)

So I'm going in a different direction (turns out the roomies don't want me to have a rack with multiple snakes but a PVC cage is perfect because it saves on having to keep an entire room warm). If I go the T8 route with the divider, do I need to buy two of the flourescent lighting fixtures if I want the light or do I need two?

Also, if I go with the flexwatt, is the RHP necessary? The room I guess can dip below 65 or 70 in the winter but in the summer I doubt ambient will be an issue at all.

When using the divider you will need 2 lights.

How long during the winter does the room get to 65? If it is only a few days then RHP's probably aren't worth the extra cost.

If it will be that cold for an extended period of time you will probably need to use RHP's. If using the divider you will need 2 of these:

http://www.reptilebasics.com/28-watt-radiant-heat-panel

If you don't use the divider 1 of these will be fine:

http://www.reptilebasics.com/40-watt-radiant-heat-panel

This is awesome Aaron! :D Just out of curiosity, since you use Flexwatt, do you have to lift the cages or be careful on what type of surface you place them to keep the Flexwatt from trapping heat beneath the cage or starting a fire? I always wondered how that worked when using Flexwatt for UTH because your typical UTH requires that the cage be lifted slightly and not be placed on any wood surface or something likewise flammable. :rolleyes:

My cages sit on the 8" stand made by AP, it is made from the same 1/2" PVC that the cages are. Before I got the 8" stands I used the pastil tables with fold out legs and TV tray tables lol. the Flexwatt when regulated by a thermostat shouldn't get much over 100 degrees ever. my hottest thermostat setting is 102.5 right now. While I wouldn't trust that sitting directly on my carpet... I would put it on wood or most plastics.

As you can se my cages are stacked on top of each other, and there is flexwatt sandwiched in-between them. I haven't found any need for an air gap or anything like that so far. This is because the thermostat probe site in the slop in the bottom of the cage... so it would detect any build up of heat and turn down the power going to the flexwatt.

First post here, and I just wanted to say thank you for this article. I owned a BP many years ago, but I've found that after reading through this forum, there's a lot that I've forgotten lol. I haven't picked up my new BP yet, but I'm hoping to within the next few weeks. So this thread was a huge help to me. I've been looking for something that would give me room to grow, and I think this T8 fits that perfectly. I made the mistake of not doing that the first time, and ended up spending more to upgrade a couple of times, than it would cost to get the T8 with a few options added on. I also made the mistake of going with tanks, not realizing that there were better options out there. Do you think that starting out a small BP on half of the T8 with the divider would be a good way to go? Or perhaps give him/her a space even smaller than that?

Look forward to speaking with you all, glad to be here and can't wait to have my BP soon :)

First off welcome to BP.net, I hope you enjoy your stay!

I start my little guys out in half of a T8. As long as you provide good hides such as the reptile basics hides that I use, you shouldn't have any issues.

If needed you can put the divider in the cage so that instead of splitting it 50:50 it could be split 60:40 or even 70:30 to make the cage smaller for difficult hatchlings.

Thanks for the welcome and for the reply Aaron.

Looking at the enclosure, I didn't realize you could use the divider in different areas, thanks for the heads up. But if you've done 50/50 successfully with good hides, I'll probably go that route as well.

It's been about 7 years since my last BP. I loved the little/not-so-little guy. For some reason, he didn't like other people holding him, but he never had a problem with me doing it. So, I'm really looking forward to getting a new one that I'll hopefully have for years to come. Thanks again for this detailed article, it answered a lot of questions I had when I first found this site.

For the T8, are there any of the added accessories that you'd recommend? Or would you buy them from elsewhere? Here's what I'm currently looking at

T8 Black: Sliding Glass
Sliding Door Lock
Flexwatt Belly Heat
White Flourescent Light
Basking Shelf
POP IN, POP OUT DIVIDER

I get almost the exact same set up. (so yes I buy the add-ons from AP)

If you get the divider you will need to get 2 White Fluorescent lights

I have never purchased a cage with both the divider and the basking shelf...I'm not sure how that would work out. (I've purchased cages with dividers and cages with the basking shelf but never both in the same cage) I would call AP before you order and make sure that you can use both at the same time.

Yeah, I was wondering how large the basking shelf actually was. My plan for now is to only use half the enclosure, maybe less, and then move the divider as my future BP grows. So I'll just get the shelf later on.

Thanks for the reply, and glad to know that I was atleast looking at the right stuff lol.

Wow!
Awesome set up! And thanks for all the details and information on options such as heating for this type of enclosure. Sweet, humidity is where I'm usually most concerned, too, so this type of housing will be a lot easier on my nerves! :P

So I received my T8 today and am about to go back in to seal it and get all the thermometer and probes in place.

I was wondering what in the world do you do with all the extra wire on the Acurite probes?

Do you mount the probes right next to the divider or just off of it a few inches?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aizkora

So I received my T8 today and am about to go back in to seal it and get all the thermometer and probes in place.

I was wondering what in the world do you do with all the extra wire on the Acurite probes?

Do you mount the probes right next to the divider or just off of it a few inches?

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I drill holes in the back of the cage and stick the excess on double sided foam tape

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0451.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0453.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0452.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0446.jpg

Will the T8 you listed be big enough to hold a full grown BRB? I have no doubt that it can hold a ball python will ease. I'm definitely going to go this route, you convinced me. I may need to pick your brain more (99% sure of it..) just to make sure I'm ordering everything that I need, etc.

A T8 should be large enough... certainly enough floor space. A cage with a little more height might be nice (like the T10 T11, or T12) but isn't necessary.

Here is their site. (you want the T-series Terrestrial)

http://www.animalplastics.com/

Hey Aaron, Great thread! Thank you for posting this info, super helpful.

I have been trying to figure out which route to go on a setup for my first BP. I have been going thru the newbie debate on cages/tanks/racks w/tubs. After reading through this thread and looking at the way you have this AP T8 setup, I think I will go the same route. I do have a few additional questions though:

I live in Colorado so I think I will probably need to add the RHP to maintain ambient temps and I want to add the light(s) and the divider.

I do have a few additional questions though:

1. How / where did you mount the lights and route the cords?
2. I am assuming that the RHP should be mounted in the center of the divided half?
3. How long will it take for the temps to regulate once I get everything installed before I put BP in cage?

So here is my plan:

AP T8 with the following:
Glass doors w/lock
Flexwatt Belly Heat
Divider
Light Fixture -
RBI RHP -
Herpstat 1 or 2
Accurite Thermometer
2 hides
water bowl
substrate ?

Thanks again for the great post. I plan on ordering tomorrow and once I have it setup with new BP, I will post some pics.

Hey a note on the basking shelf...I asked Ali at AP directly about this when ordering my 2 T8s.....The basking shelf WILL NOT WORK with a divider as, according to her during our phone convo...they mount it directly to the back/middle area of the back wall and its large enough that she says it spans most of the back...Unless they could custom make 2 smaller sized basking shelves...one on each side of the divider (that last thought I never directly asked her about b/c at the time it hadnt occurred to me).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by T_Leonard

Hey Aaron, Great thread! Thank you for posting this info, super helpful.

I have been trying to figure out which route to go on a setup for my first BP. I have been going thru the newbie debate on cages/tanks/racks w/tubs. After reading through this thread and looking at the way you have this AP T8 setup, I think I will go the same route. I do have a few additional questions though:

I live in Colorado so I think I will probably need to add the RHP to maintain ambient temps and I want to add the light(s) and the divider.

I do have a few additional questions though:

1. How / where did you mount the lights and route the cords?
2. I am assuming that the RHP should be mounted in the center of the divided half?
3. How long will it take for the temps to regulate once I get everything installed before I put BP in cage?

So here is my plan:

AP T8 with the following:
Glass doors w/lock
Flexwatt Belly Heat
Divider
Light Fixture -
RBI RHP -
Herpstat 1 or 2
Accurite Thermometer
2 hides
water bowl
substrate ?

Thanks again for the great post. I plan on ordering tomorrow and once I have it setup with new BP, I will post some pics.

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1. If you order them as optionals from AP they will drill mounting screws in for you based on your location requests in where you want them..they drilled small holes for the cords and plug ends for me as well.
2. I personally would mount it center...if it is meant to raise overall temps throughout that makes logical sense.
3. No clue...I would suggest a day at least...maybe 1-3 days for you tinkering and adjusting things...I guess it depends on how anal/much of a perfectionist people are.

Thanks for the help, I do plan to order from AP, so I will talk to them about mounting locations for holes and slots for cords. I am pretty anal about things like this and want it done right the first time.

I do plan to add a second BP so I will talk to them about the mounting holes for both sides.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by T_Leonard

Hey Aaron, Great thread! Thank you for posting this info, super helpful.

I have been trying to figure out which route to go on a setup for my first BP. I have been going thru the newbie debate on cages/tanks/racks w/tubs. After reading through this thread and looking at the way you have this AP T8 setup, I think I will go the same route. I do have a few additional questions though:

I live in Colorado so I think I will probably need to add the RHP to maintain ambient temps and I want to add the light(s) and the divider.

I do have a few additional questions though:

1. How / where did you mount the lights and route the cords?
2. I am assuming that the RHP should be mounted in the center of the divided half?
3. How long will it take for the temps to regulate once I get everything installed before I put BP in cage?

So here is my plan:

AP T8 with the following:
Glass doors w/lock
Flexwatt Belly Heat
Divider
Light Fixture -
RBI RHP -
Herpstat 1 or 2
Accurite Thermometer
2 hides
water bowl
substrate ?

Thanks again for the great post. I plan on ordering tomorrow and once I have it setup with new BP, I will post some pics.

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Pow! I believe this is exactly what I want to do, though I'll go with a Pro Products RHP and Herpstat 2 or 4. I have been debating splitting or not splitting...Think I finally settled on splitting. Now I'm hung on one RHP or two. Two might be nice if I have a different snake type on each side, which may be the plan. Let me know how the ordering goes. I just have to flip a coin and do it. Today I set up the 24 x 48 wire shelving rack it will sit on, so I'm ready to go.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by T_Leonard

Thanks for the help, I do plan to order from AP, so I will talk to them about mounting locations for holes and slots for cords. I am pretty anal about things like this and want it done right the first time.

I do plan to add a second BP so I will talk to them about the mounting holes for both sides.

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If you order a T8 with 2 lights this is where they will place them (though I'm sure that they can mount them elsewhere if requested)

(This is the ceiling of the cage)

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...psd0c0a0fd.jpg

Each light has its own cutout/slots for the cord. They are placed in the ideal locations on the top of the cage and are easily covered. The one thing that I will note is that the top of the cage directly over the lights will heat up some. Nothing to be worried about, but worth mentioning.

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/photo2-1.jpg

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0374.jpg

(Note: The difference in light color is due to an experiment that I am running on what type of lights are best for BP's The more yellow light on the left cage is the stock bulb from AP. The whiter/blue bulb on the right is a Zoo-Med Nature Sun 2.0 UV A/B bulb)

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...psa85c2c32.jpg

I have been debating further about a few of the options for this setup:

1. The T10 instead of the T8 for the extra height 15" vs 12", just for more clearance to have access to the BP.
2. The Swing doors instead of the sliders although it adds a little more to the price, I like the looks better. Not sure if they are better functionally or not?

I did look at the Pro Products RHP and definitely think its worth giving them a call to discuss before deciding on that. I plan to use 2 RHP's, one for each side. Sounds like the Pro RHP may allow a smaller unit if they are that much more efficient?

I have been looking at thermostats and like the Herpstat 2 for this setup. Also looking at the VE200 / VE300 models.

Aaron,
I like the way those lights are setup, thank you for the pic. I will be curious to hear about your findings with the light bulbs. I do like the nature sun bulb better than the stock bulb.

What are your thoughts on the T8 vs T10 and the extra height?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by T_Leonard

Aaron,
I like the way those lights are setup, thank you for the pic. I will be curious to hear about your findings with the light bulbs. I do like the nature sun bulb better than the stock bulb.

What are your thoughts on the T8 vs T10 and the extra height?

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T8 vs T10 makes very little difference. Personally I don't think it is worth the extra cost and certainly not the 6-8 weeks longer to get.

The Swing doors will make it harder to get into, and the windows are made from plexiglass. They will scratch easier, warp over time, and yellow over time. I would stick with the glass sliding doors but that's just me.

The herpstat 2 is a much better thermostat than the VE200 or 300. Herpstats are safer, have more features/capabilities, and overall are a better value for your $$.