Is my BP starting a shed?

I think my ball python has started to shed, but i am unsure as what to look for apart from the cloudy/blue eyes which he has. He has turned a very pale colour and looks wet, I only lifted his hide as he has not been out of it the past 2 days (not even at night and not once during the day) just to check if he is okay, temps are 87-90 on the warmer side and 80-83 on the cooler side, he has been drinking a lot of water before he got into this state and last fed on Tuesdayhttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...ibb.co/NCJtqnx (fed a medium mouse every week) and went into this state yesterday. I may be worrying too much but I do thhttps://app.gemoo.com/share/image-an...66639911419904ink hes just shedding as his last shed before I bought him was in September which is a good while ago.

https://imgur.com/Tw3qUsm
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...ur.com/Tw3qUsm

I wouldn't worry, he looks (& sounds) to me like he's in a shed cycle. They typically lie low (hide) for days at this time. You might want to make sure his humidity is at least 60%-70%, or if you're not sure, offer a humid hide. Drinking more water suggests he might need higher humidity right about now. Once he sheds, make sure to check the shed skin to ensure that his eye caps & tail tip came off all the way, & if not, give some gentle assistance. Leaving any old skin on causes problems, & only gets harder to remove.

As far as telling when a snake is in shed, the longer you keep snakes, the more obvious it becomes. Time between sheds will vary a lot- they shed when they grow & need to shed, so don't worry. Eyes are usually the most obvious clue, but the overall grayish or pale look is typical, also just the way the skin folds on their neck looks very different before they shed compared to afterward. They usually prefer the cool side-hide when in shed too, & typically refuse meals if shedding soon.

When you find the shed skin, assuming you find it fairly soon after he "disrobes", it will feel moist. That's because a snake secretes moisture between the old & new skin to facilitate the shedding process. If you're really careful, it's fun to unroll the shed (especially if it's intack) & flatten it out- you can see all their scales etc. The shed skin stretches a bit though, so it's not a perfect size measurement of a snake's length- the sheds are a little longer than the actual snake. (An easy way to help open up the shed is to blow air into the "mouth"- without actually touching the skin with your lips of course.)

Gotcha, his humidity is around 65% right now but ive read online to bump it up to around 80% during shedding, is this ideal?

80% is a little too high- 65-75% is plenty. Too much humidity makes it harder for them to breathe.

I guess this is a good of a spot as any to ask this question.

I've read where a BP's belly will turn pink prior to shedding. And I do believe mine's belly is starting to look slightly pink.
his eyes are not blue and cloudy yet though.

so is the pink belly typically only a sign of getting ready to shed or is that somewhat normal and not necessarily a precursor to a shed?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Nutriaitch

I guess this is a good of a spot as any to ask this question.

I've read where a BP's belly will turn pink prior to shedding. And I do believe mine's belly is starting to look slightly pink.
his eyes are not blue and cloudy yet though.

so is the pink belly typically only a sign of getting ready to shed or is that somewhat normal and not necessarily a precursor to a shed?

---

My bp's belly turned from cream to a dark pink prior to a shed. The first time it happened scared me. I thought he had scale rot.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Nutriaitch

I guess this is a good of a spot as any to ask this question.

I've read where a BP's belly will turn pink prior to shedding. And I do believe mine's belly is starting to look slightly pink.
his eyes are not blue and cloudy yet though.

so is the pink belly typically only a sign of getting ready to shed or is that somewhat normal and not necessarily a precursor to a shed?

---

A pink belly is something to watch, as it can be one of several things: 1. A sign of impending shed (not all snakes show this), or 2. A sign of a thermal burn (double check your surface temperatures immediately if you're using UTH- & it had better be controlled by a reliable thermostat, fyi, & should not allow surface temps. where the snake can actually touch to go above 90* for safety. OR 3. A sign of septicemia (bacterial infection in the blood- very serious, often fatal).

So as not to panic needlessly over every shed (which is the most common cause of a pink snake belly), learn ALL the signs of shedding. Signs are much harder to see in albino or other light colored snakes. Use a small narrow beam flashlight in dark room- shine the beam across the curve of the snake's eye caps- look for signs (hazy, milky). Realize that the eye caps don't stay foggy until the snake sheds- they go back to "clear" as does the rest of the snake's skin prior to shedding. That's because a healthy snake's body secretes moisture between the old & new skin to facilitate its removal- that's also why it helps somewhat to bump up the humidity for a snake in shed, & why you should care about their hydration 24/7. Once they're cloudy & shedding, it's a bit late to improve what's inside their body- it's also why snakes instinctively refuse meals when in shed, & why it's best NOT to feed one even if they'll eat. Some snakes have no trouble doing both (digesting & shedding) but many do- it can cause a stuck shed, because BOTH functions take extra hydration from the snake's body to accomplish. See?

Other signs of shedding: refusing food, staying on the cool side, drinking more water, dull coloration, moodiness ("I vant to be alone! Ssss!") & sometimes you can see a faint double edge on the belly scutes. Another favorite sign of mine is very hard to explain, so study your snake & eventually you'll understand after seeing multiple sheds- but it has to do with how the skin folds in the snake's neck appear. The neck skin just looks different when a snake is in a shed cycle- & I'm talking about texture, not cloudiness. ;)

Also keep in mind that you can MISS some of these signs if you aren't observing your snake daily- ie. when they go "clear"- thanks to the moisture, it temporarily makes the cloudy skin look normal..."almost". So now that I've confused you thoroughly? :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bogertophis

A pink belly is something to watch, as it can be one of several things: 1. A sign of impending shed (not all snakes show this), or 2. A sign of a thermal burn (double check your surface temperatures immediately if you're using UTH- & it had better be controlled by a reliable thermostat, fyi, & should not allow surface temps. where the snake can actually touch to go above 90* for safety. OR 3. A sign of septicemia (bacterial infection in the blood- very serious, often fatal).

So as not to panic needlessly over every shed (which is the most common cause of a pink snake belly), learn ALL the signs of shedding. Signs are much harder to see in albino or other light colored snakes. Use a small narrow beam flashlight in dark room- shine the beam across the curve of the snake's eye caps- look for signs (hazy, milky). Realize that the eye caps don't stay foggy until the snake sheds- they go back to "clear" as does the rest of the snake's skin prior to shedding. That's because a healthy snake's body secretes moisture between the old & new skin to facilitate its removal- that's also why it helps somewhat to bump up the humidity for a snake in shed, & why you should care about their hydration 24/7. Once they're cloudy & shedding, it's a bit late to improve what's inside their body- it's also why snakes instinctively refuse meals when in shed, & why it's best NOT to feed one even if they'll eat. Some snakes have no trouble doing both (digesting & shedding) but many do- it can cause a stuck shed, because BOTH functions take extra hydration from the snake's body to accomplish. See?

Other signs of shedding: refusing food, staying on the cool side, drinking more water, dull coloration, moodiness ("I vant to be alone! Ssss!") & sometimes you can see a faint double edge on the belly scutes. Another favorite sign of mine is very hard to explain, so study your snake & eventually you'll understand after seeing multiple sheds- but it has to do with how the skin folds in the snake's neck appear. The neck skin just looks different when a snake is in a shed cycle- & I'm talking about texture, not cloudiness. ;)

Also keep in mind that you can MISS some of these signs if you aren't observing your snake daily- ie. when they go "clear"- thanks to the moisture, it temporarily makes the cloudy skin look normal..."almost". So now that I've confused you thoroughly? :D

---

the pink may have been a lighting issue too.:confuzd:
when I looked again it was one of those "ok, maybe it's a little pink-ish. then again maybe not. wait kinda. no not really" :rofl:
so maybe my LED lighting (light fixtures in ceiling, not lights in snakes enclosure) are throwing me off depending on angle.

the floor is definitely not anywhere close to 90°. I don't have a way to check just the floor.
but it's about 75° in the enclosure itself.
my hand touching the cool and warm side does feel the difference, but the warm side damn sure ain't "hot" by any stretch. it's more along the lines of "not cold".

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Nutriaitch

the pink may have been a lighting issue too.:confuzd:
when I looked again it was one of those "ok, maybe it's a little pink-ish. then again maybe not. wait kinda. no not really" :rofl:
so maybe my LED lighting (light fixtures in ceiling, not lights in snakes enclosure) are throwing me off depending on angle.

the floor is definitely not anywhere close to 90°. I don't have a way to check just the floor.
but it's about 75° in the enclosure itself.
my hand touching the cool and warm side does feel the difference, but the warm side damn sure ain't "hot" by any stretch. it's more along the lines of "not cold".

---

Highly suggest you get an accurate digital thermometer (aka "temp gun"), your hands won't do it. Reason: we're roughly 98.6* so unless the snake's home is hotter than that, it feels cool to us- when it's actually WAY too hot for your snake! :O You NEED an accurate thermometer..."yesterday".

And fyi, 75* ambient in the enclosure is too cool for a BP- when they're too cool, their immune system doesn't function well & they can get seriously sick with things they've already been exposed to. Temperatures are critical for successful snake keeping- it's your responsibility to get it right, since the snake is your prisoner & cannot seek out the conditions its body needs to digest & function properly. Snakes aren't like other pets- their bodies cannot make their own warmth to function- it's up to us to provide them.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Highly suggest you get an accurate digital thermometer (aka "temp gun"), your hands won't do it. Reason: we're roughly 98.6* so unless the snake's home is hotter than that, it feels cool to us- when it's actually WAY too hot for your snake! :O You NEED an accurate thermometer..."yesterday".

And fyi, 75* ambient in the enclosure is too cool for a BP- when they're too cool, their immune system doesn't function well & they can get seriously sick with things they've already been exposed to. Temperatures are critical for successful snake keeping- it's your responsibility to get it right, since the snake is your prisoner & cannot seek out the conditions its body needs to digest & function properly. Snakes aren't like other pets- their bodies cannot make their own warmth to function- it's up to us to provide them.

---

10/4, I'll get one.
what temp should his enclosure be to get it right? and any suggestions to raise it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Nutriaitch

10/4, I'll get one.
what temp should his enclosure be to get it right? and any suggestions to raise it?

---

Lowest temperature ("cool end" of enclosure) should be 77*- 80* for a BP. Warm end you want @ 88*-90*F.- higher than 90*F risks thermal burns to snakes that cluelessly lay over the UTH too long without realizing they're doing damage until it's too late. Don't ask me how they avoid this in the wild...I just know that some snakes, including BPs, have been known to get thermal burns in captivity from poorly regulated heat sources.

I suspect the heavier-bodied snakes (like BPs) may have more trouble with this because it takes longer for the heat to penetrate their heavier body, & by the time they really feel it, their outer skin layers are damaged. I'm mostly a colubrid keeper (slimmer snakes) & have never personally had this happen, but I know many keepers have, from my years of being on snake forums. Ask any herp vet too- this is something they regularly see. Burns are painful, slow to heal, & may result in infections & even death. IE. they're no fun for you or your pets, & require veterinary treatment & $ to heal.

Every situation is different- a cooler room or home will influence how hard or easy it is to keep an enclosure warm, as will the materials the enclosure is made of, the amount of substrate, & any insulating materials used around it. This is why we strongly suggest that everyone set up their enclosure (completely, how it will be when occupied) for at least a week BEFORE it's occupied, so you can adjust the thermostat adequately without risking the health of the occupant. It takes time for everything- the substrate & furnishings & all nearby surfaces outside the enclosure to absorb warmth & get up to speed, & if they need tweaked, it takes more time for the temps. to settle again so you get accurate readings. (I know, that ship has sailed...but maybe next time?)

What kind of heat are you using? That makes a huge difference too. Understand that if you're using UTH (under tank heat) & your substrate is too deep (over 1/2") it acts as an insulator- that is, it prevents heat from rising into the enclosure- not what you want or what the snake needs. I know deep substrate looks cool & some snakes like to dig in it, but it's not good over UTH.

How you set up the probe for a t-stat is very important too- it needs to be outside the enclosure (between the UTH & underside of enclosure) & you adjust the t-stat to get the temperature you need INSIDE, on the bottom surface where the snake will touch -assuming he/she shoves any substrate aside. Like I said before, you MUST have an accurate temp. gun, & also a t-stat to keep the heat at a safe level- it's essential so you don't harm your snake. Unregulated heat devices get crazy hot, especially if they're not set up right (deep substrate can make them overheat & fail.) This all gets easier-;) & believe me, I know that pet stores rarely give you enough information to successfully keep a pet snake. Selling stuff is what they do- the rest is up to you.

BTW, if one heat source isn't enough, you might need 2. (UTH + over-head heat source of some type) It depends on your room/home temperatures- & that includes A/C in the summer, not just winter temps. Keeping your snake's home far away from A/C vents will help, but if you like your home to be cool in the summer, that's just more heat that your snake's home will need.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Nutriaitch

what temp should his enclosure be to get it right? and any suggestions to raise it?

---

This forum has an excellent caresheet with basic information on ball python care: https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...ius)-Caresheet.

Post a pic of your enclosure with a brief description of your heating elements and thermostats, and I'm sure we can give you some suggestions on how you could raise the temp.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Don't ask me how they avoid this in the wild...I just know that some snakes, including BPs, have been known to get thermal burns in captivity from poorly regulated heat sources.

I suspect the heavier-bodied snakes (like BPs) may have more trouble with this because it takes longer for the heat to penetrate their heavier body, & by the time they really feel it, their outer skin layers are damaged.

---

That last part is probably a clue as to why wild conditions don't (or do they? do we have reliable data on wild snakes?) lead to thermal burns. Wild conditions are going to be more uniform over moderate sized areas. If it is 100F in some area that area is probably pretty big and the air there is hot too, so the the snake (a) isn't coming into the area with a cold body, and (b) is going to heat both relatively quickly and (c) do so through radiant, convective and conductive heat. A wild snake is also likely to have a very wide choice of thermal gradient options (all the options in hundreds of square meters, at least).

Compare this to captive conditions where the cool side is pretty cool, and the snake is often supposed to warm itself mostly only through conductive heat (all the while loosing heat on its back side to the cooler air). This (that is, the relative heat gain/loss, as well as the the time needed to change body temp) is going to be more of a problem with a snake that has a lower surface to mass ratio like a BP. Add to this the fact that a captive snake is usually only given the choice between one cool spot and one warm spot (maybe a couple in the better enclosures, but 1000x less choice than in the wild), and it is no surprise that snakes have issues.