Assist Feeding Instructions

I have seen numerous threads of late about first time breeders asking about how to get their stubborn feeders to start eating. If after about 4-6 weeks of age, the snake has not eaten, it is probably about time to give it a little instruction on how to eat. With that said, I would not recommend anyone do this that has not be able to actually see it done in person or get some hands on experience by someone that knows what they are doing. However, we all know that sometimes this is just not possible. So, I have attempted to describe how we do it as best as possible below. I would like to add some pics of the process, however, I do not have any babies that need assist feeding yet. Once I get a stubborn feeder later in the year, I will take some pics and update this thread. I just didn't want to wait until I had pics, since there are many people that could benefit from this now.

Here is a short run down on how I do it. Get a small hopper mouse (or ASF, if this is what your intended food item will be, although I would recommend a mouse, because they have more hair and seem to have slightly thicker skin than the ASF at this size) and let it sit in some warm water for 5-10 seconds. That just helps to lubricate it for the process. NOTE: The prey item should be a pre-killed or frozen thawed rodent. Grab the snake behind the head, and make sure that the first 2-3 inches of the neck are straightened out and in line with the mouth. Use the rodent's nose to get the snakes mouth open. Use a pair of small hemostats and grab the rodent just behind the head. Gently push the rodent into the snakes throat until the front shoulders just disappear from view. At this point, grab the snake by the head, gently applying pressure on the upper and lower jaw, so that it can not spit the rodent out. While holding the pressure on the jaws, gently tug on the rodent in an outward direction. This helps to insure that the recurved teeth are dug into the rodent slightly, making it harder for the snake to spit it out. Set the snake down and close the tub. Leave it alone for at least 1 hour. That should do the trick.

If the snake took the meal, offer a live meal in about 5-7 days. If it doesn't take the live meal, or spit out the assist attempt, I generally will try again to assist in 7 days. Usually you will only have to assist once or twice and they get the idea. I have had to assist as many as 6 times. If after 3 attampts at assissting haven't worked (this is usually about 7-8 weeks post hatch), it is time to force feed. Follow the same procedure outlined above, but continue to push the rodent into the throat until the back legs have disappeared from view and then start gently massaging the meal down the throat into the stomach.

If anyone has any questions, please let me know via PM or on this thread. I hope this helps those that may have questions regarding this nerve racking process. Believe me, it will test your nerves the first couple times you do it, and it is stressful to the snake. However, with time, you will become very proficient at it, and I believe that it is a very beneficial skill to have when hatching snakes, as it will save a life or two in time.

Great Post Tim,

Thanks for that write up.

rite on...almost had to assitsted feed my girl, but she finally ate

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Originally Posted by Spaniard

Great Post Tim,

Thanks for that write up.

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Thanks Rich. I always hate to hear that anyone ever has to do this, but I believe it is inevitable if you breed snakes, and I like to know that there is something out there for a beginner to give them the best possible chance at success in the event they have to assist feed.

I think you're absolutely right Tim; and its something I don't look foward to doing. I will be glad to have this to read over when I do. Thanks again.

great write up...i have had to do this with the snakes @ work, and some of my personal collection to get them started.

Good write up Time. I'm glad I haven't had to do that for any of my snakes. I don't really think I could, I would have to get somebody else to do it.

great write up. i had to do this with an animal at 6 weeks that had yet to shed. after a couple of force feedings, it finally shed.

Wish I had this write up a few years back, ran into a lady at the pet store who had been shoving mice down her bp's throat with a pencil for an entire year. I was so horrified I didn't even know how to respond.

I have forced fed my snake 3 times so far he hasnt ate on his own but it is getting easier every time.Do you think I should put a frozen pinky in instead of always trying to feed him live fuzzies he is 3 months old

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Originally Posted by carpenter664

I have forced fed my snake 3 times so far he hasnt ate on his own but it is getting easier every time.Do you think I should put a frozen pinky in instead of always trying to feed him live fuzzies he is 3 months old

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I never assist feed with live - always with a pre-killed or f/t prey item.

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Originally Posted by rabernet

I never assist feed with live - always with a pre-killed or f/t prey item.

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X2 live is a bad idea

My het albino female has been causing me sleepless nights for what seems like weeks, but it actually has been just one week. When I used to be in the reptile hobby years ago - before the first piebald landed on USA soil - I had 'assist fed' a couple snakes. My original two snakes getting back into the hobby never need assisting - they'd eat a rubber mouse/rat if you scented it like a live one. So I needed some coaching and guidance as to what to do.

But tonight, I needed to help her get on her way with eating. She was too emaciated to hope she'd turn around on her own (she never fed for me, but I was told she fed for the breeder). *shrug*

Thanks to Mr. Bailey's clear and concise instructions I had my girl finishing a f/t hopper on her own. My info search + the "procedure" took just 10 minutes! No, it wasn't a quick fire challenge, but methodical and steady work... act like you have all night and day and it'll take five minutes. And yes, while I was as careful as I could be, I truly hope I didn't do her any harm and hope next week that she takes a live rat pinky. In any event, I think I'll be happy with progress so far and will sleep well tonight. Thank you 100x over. :salute:

just a note that its not always neccasary to push the mouse in very far or hook its teeth on the prey. The majority of the ones I have assist fed took the mouse just by having it placed in thier mouth. They instantly coil the second they feel it. I would definately do what was suggested for any snakes that spit it out right away but if its the first time Id give the snake a chance before pushing it further in and closing the mouth so the teeth catch.

I have a baby male ball python. I bought him wednesday, they guy selling him to feed him friday or saturday. Well we got the mouse(hopper) friday, cuz we wanted feeding day to b friday. We had to assist feed this afternoon. He ate it. My gf opened his mouth with a ear swab(saw on youtube) then I put in the hopper. Lu(my snake) bit down right away, she then removed the swab and in minutes the little hopper was gone. Lol, Lu wanted more. Is that a good sign?

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Originally Posted by GoingPostal

Wish I had this write up a few years back, ran into a lady at the pet store who had been shoving mice down her bp's throat with a pencil for an entire year. I was so horrified I didn't even know how to respond.

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Omg that's horrible!!!! :O

I have found that the most vitally important part of all this is to remain perfectly statue-still after setting the snake down, and not to close the bin. Any disturbance, and the snake is almost certain to spit it back out, but with patience, the food goes down the hatch instead. As soon as it's cleared the mouth, I can close the bin and walk away.

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Originally Posted by WingedWolfPsion

I have found that the most vitally important part of all this is to remain perfectly statue-still after setting the snake down, and not to close the bin. Any disturbance, and the snake is almost certain to spit it back out, but with patience, the food goes down the hatch instead. As soon as it's cleared the mouth, I can close the bin and walk away.

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I got mine to feed just by putting it in its mouth, it chopped down and started swallowing it.

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Originally Posted by CA cowgirl

My het albino female has been causing me sleepless nights for what seems like weeks, but it actually has been just one week. When I used to be in the reptile hobby years ago - before the first piebald landed on USA soil - I had 'assist fed' a couple snakes. My original two snakes getting back into the hobby never need assisting - they'd eat a rubber mouse/rat if you scented it like a live one. So I needed some coaching and guidance as to what to do.

But tonight, I needed to help her get on her way with eating. She was too emaciated to hope she'd turn around on her own (she never fed for me, but I was told she fed for the breeder). *shrug*

Thanks to Mr. Bailey's clear and concise instructions I had my girl finishing a f/t hopper on her own. My info search + the "procedure" took just 10 minutes! No, it wasn't a quick fire challenge, but methodical and steady work... act like you have all night and day and it'll take five minutes. And yes, while I was as careful as I could be, I truly hope I didn't do her any harm and hope next week that she takes a live rat pinky. In any event, I think I'll be happy with progress so far and will sleep well tonight. Thank you 100x over. :salute:

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You're quite welcome. I am glad the thread was helpful, as that was my original intent.

I do still need to add some pics, as I have been busy lately, but I do have 2 snakes that I am still assisting, and I might grab some pics of the process this week while I am assisting.

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Originally Posted by dragoonmaster1781

I got mine to feed just by putting it in its mouth, it chopped down and started swallowing it.

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You had an easy one, lol.

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Originally Posted by WingedWolfPsion

You had an easy one, lol.

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lol I think he was just scared yo eat once he had it in its mouth, he was good to go.

AWSOME READ! I actually have a baby mojave I couldnt get to eat. So I read up on the stick on some tips and it worked spot on:banana:

Just whacked the mouse dipped him in warm water and worked the head of the mouse into the mojo's mouth. After a few attempts he finally realized what the heck I wanted him to do.

Thanks so much. I just picked up a baby normal, but with beautiful colors. The breeder has already force fed two pinkies, I am trying to get her to eat normally. She sniffed at a gerbil pinkie last night. I will wait a few days, let her settle in. But I will follow these instructions if I have to.

I'm happy to share that not only did Muddoc's post help me keep my animals alive, but I also took them to the vet to find they had an upper respiratory infection after combating mites. So a sum of money spent on the vet, a round of Fortaz, and my critters have now very eagerly taken two meals on their own and are putting on weight too!

:taz:

I did it :) I placed a fuzzy ASF in her jaws with plastic tweezers that I borrowed. I planned on force feeding the whole way, then I remembered this post, so I locked it in her teeth, and put her in her tub. About 5 minutes of looking at me like I am crazy, and suddenly she started swallowing :) Now this girl is a milestone, just a normal, but she is going to be with me for a good long time

Thanks so much :)

I haven't been back to check this thread in awhile, but I am very happy to see that it was able to help a few more people. Sometimes these guys just need a little extra TLC, and they do just great.

I know I sound like a procrastinator, but I actually decided to take some pics of this procedure a few weeks ago, as I had two babies still taking assisted meals. Wouldn't you know, I brought out the camera, and they both ate on their own. With that said, I might have to add that if you are having a problem feeder in the future, maybe the presence of a camera will make them eat. LOL.

p.s. My 2 girls that finally figured it out on their own both took 8 assist feeds before feeding on their own. I just wanted to add that note, as previous to these 2, I had never had to assist more than 6 times.

Good luck to everyone in the future,

My ball python refuses to eat rats! It is so frustrating.

Here is my breakdown: I only feed frozen/thawed as I bought her while she was already eating the frozen. I've had her for just over two years and she has been quite the good eater for most of it.

There was a time where she went on a hunger strike and that was when she was getting somewhat big on adult mice so I tried switching her to rat pups that were the same size to begin her transition to rats. She would not take them, but due to the somewhat large supply of pups I kept trying them until they got freezer burn and I had to throw them away.

Since then I put her back on mice and she takes them down like popcorn. I am feeding her about 3 mice a week, but not in the same feeding. Approximately one adult frozen mouse every 2-3 days.

I've tried offering her small rats every once in a while but she won't even go near them. Has anyone heard of a ball python being so picky?

I am frustrated and need advice! Save me!

Unfortunately I wish I could give you more encouraging advice, but I do have some animals like that. I have a female that eats 3 mice per sitting twice a week. I finally got her switched to ASFs after about 1 year, and after one more year of trying I got her on rats. It took two years. I have a few males though that are 4 years old, and have never taken a rat.

It's a ball python, and your best tool for winning is persistence and patience.

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Originally Posted by DmR20588

My ball python refuses to eat rats! It is so frustrating.

Here is my breakdown: I only feed frozen/thawed as I bought her while she was already eating the frozen. I've had her for just over two years and she has been quite the good eater for most of it.

There was a time where she went on a hunger strike and that was when she was getting somewhat big on adult mice so I tried switching her to rat pups that were the same size to begin her transition to rats. She would not take them, but due to the somewhat large supply of pups I kept trying them until they got freezer burn and I had to throw them away.

Since then I put her back on mice and she takes them down like popcorn. I am feeding her about 3 mice a week, but not in the same feeding. Approximately one adult frozen mouse every 2-3 days.

I've tried offering her small rats every once in a while but she won't even go near them. Has anyone heard of a ball python being so picky?

I am frustrated and need advice! Save me!

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Try scenting the rats with mouse bedding or something that smells mousy...I've converted a few like that. All you need is some stinky mouse bedding. Rub that all over a thawed rat pup and give it a try...

I am so grateful for this post, I just recently picked up some hatchlings, and the yellowbellies had yet to eat. Sadly one was to far gone, and even after being force fed by my local breeder, it died the same night. But the other two are doing quite well. the Ringer is still stubborn and needs to be assisted, but the other one is eating quite well on her own.

I rescued my ball from a petshop. It has been fed there once. Should I try to let it take the food itself, or assist feed?

Hi,

Assist feeding is what you do when the snake won't eat by itself and is getting to the point where this is a problem.

If you just got it and it has eaten in the recent past you shouldn't even be thinking of assist feeding yet.


dr del

Awesome...that's what I was hoping lol...We'll see...they don't seem to different than Burmese

I need help please! I received my first BP for Christmas this year. My mom bought him from a pet store a couple days before Christmas where they told her that he would be due to eat on Christmas. It is now the 5th of January and I still haven't been able to get him to eat. He is approximately 18 inches long and from all my research seems to be in fairly good health although in the past couple days he has started to seem less muscular and sleeps about 95% of the time that I am awake (he used to be awake and moving around at least half the time I was awake).

I got him to strike at food on the 31st, but was so excited that I accidently dropped both the food and the 17inch feeding tongs I was using to hold it in his feeding area and scared him so he wouldn't eat.

He is currently in a 10 gallon tank with one side kept at 90 degrees during the day and the other between 80-85 farenheit. At night one side stays at 80 degrees and the other at about 75. He has a hide on either side of the tank as well as a climbing area. He has a water dish that I change daily. I use aspen bedding and keep the humidity at about 50%.

I primarily try feeding him at night when he is more active in the dark but have also tried during the day and in the light. I've tried feeding him in a small enclosed area as well as the plastic tub that I originally bought as his feeding place. I have been trying to feed him frozen pinkies and have tried thawed/refrozen, brained the thawed pinkie, and dipped the pinkie in tuna juice. I have tried to feed him every other day since the 25th. I don't handle him except for when I take him out to feed him since I want him to get acclimated to his surroundings and eat before I get him used to me.

What else can I do??? I would really not like to feed him live mice but I don't want to cause some kind of injury to his health due to him not eating. I know they can go without eating for a long time but I tend to worry and would feel so much better if he would finally eat! Please help!

First thing I would recommend is to feed a larger prey item. Many times they won't eat something as small as a pinkie. I have quite a few babies every year that need something with more size that "moves around" alot. Try feeding something larger than a pinkie (not to mention, even if your snake was eating the pinkies, it would still lose weight due to under feeding). Also, this is the time of year where plenty of snakes will go off feed. Most animals will not do this until they are around 12-16 months old, but I do have the occassional hatchling that stops feeding in winter, even though he is young and small (I currently have a Lavender Albino male doing this to me).

Lstly, your comment about him sleeping 95% of the day, is completely normal. That is what ball pythons do. Most snakes that only eat once every 7-14 days (and even longer at times in the wild), do not move around alot. That is how they conserve energy and minimize the demand for intake of food. Other higher metabolism snakes such as corn snakes, move around alot more, require more food intake.

I hope that helps, but if you have more questions, just ask.

Thanks for this detailed information. I am worried I may have to do this with my newly purchased BP. I have tried feeding thawed frozen mice and he acted scared of them. Left him with them for a few hours and nothing. I will try a live one in a couple more days to see if he takes to that. If not then I will try this assisted method.

Just wanted to say thank you for these instructions. I have a female het that would not eat. After reading and debating whether or not I should do it, I gave it a shot. It was probably just as nerve racking for me as it was for the snake. In the end it worked, hopefully that will get her to start feeding.

KT

I have had a hard to feed snake in the past. Knowing what I know now about snakes I would have fixed her up good. I just got in a snake that didn't want to eat. I started her on antibiotics. She is now eating. I prekilled a rat and smashed the head a little bit, and also put in a live small mouse. I went to bed. Next day both were in her belly. Now I can get a fecal sample, and bring that to my vet and see if she's got any parasites. From my experience, a snake that does not eat has something medically wrong with it, even if it looks fine. If the snake is mature you can expect them to eat less during the breeding season.

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Originally Posted by snakeg

IFrom my experience, a snake that does not eat has something medically wrong with it, even if it looks fine.

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I really wanted to address the above quote from your post. While this statement can be true, it can also be false. The premis behind the original posting of this thread was how to assist feed a new hatchling Ball Python. I have probably had to "jump start" somewhere in the neighboorhodd of 100 baby balls over the years. I have only had one that would still not take anything after 26 assists. The reason was his tongue was extremely short, and I believe that had something to do with his lack of feeding. Tongue issues are usually always a failure at getting them to eat on their own.

Where your statement can be true is for an animal that has fed on it's own in the past. Typically if it has eaten on it's own in the past, and decides not to eat (not in conjunction with a fasting period), then there is probably something wrong.

With all of the above stateted, I would NEVER, and have NEVER advocate assit feeding a Ball Python that has eaten on it's own before. If it is not eating, it either doesn't want to eat, or something is wrong in the husbandry department and needs to be resolved.

I have just taken on the challenge of a hatchling (born in Sept) that has yet to eat. I have read everything in this thread and am most thankful for it. My question is, typically you give a reptile a "settling in" period of up to a week, however, this poor little guy is pretty weak so I don't think he will make it. I got the snake Tuesday night, will I do more harm than good by trying to assist feed it tonight? The previous owner did try assist feeding with no success.

perhaps this write up would be a good candidate for a sticky?

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Originally Posted by ewaldrep

perhaps this write up would be a good candidate for a sticky?

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^^^ I agree!

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Originally Posted by ewaldrep

perhaps this write up would be a good candidate for a sticky?

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It already is....thats how I found it :)

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Originally Posted by HerpsNHarleys

I have just taken on the challenge of a hatchling (born in Sept) that has yet to eat. I have read everything in this thread and am most thankful for it. My question is, typically you give a reptile a "settling in" period of up to a week, however, this poor little guy is pretty weak so I don't think he will make it. I got the snake Tuesday night, will I do more harm than good by trying to assist feed it tonight? The previous owner did try assist feeding with no success.

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Getting food into him is priority, but start small if you think he wouldn't last a week. He can de-stress later.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

Thank you Robin :)

So thanks to all this wonderful information I managed to get Gilligan to take down 2 pinkies last night. I originally tried something bigger but it just wasn't happening. I figured I could go with a couple of pinkies every 3 days then after a week or so try a fuzzy. Am I off on this thinking? At this point I am just trying to keep the little guy alive while getting him interested in larger prey.

i ordered a desert online and its almost been a month since he has ate. i bought a rat and i left it in there with him, its only been a day and it seems like he only strikes at it. hes a little over 600 grams and i dont want to leave the rat in there cause he seems really stressed out. so how can i get him too eat?

I've got 2 BPs. No problems getting my pastel to eat, even though I was told she's a picky eater. My newest baby, Eeek, isn't in the best of shape, I got her as an adoption, knowing full well that she's a hard shedder, was anemic and had some parasites. Aside from the shedding, those are taken care of. The biggest issue is eating. She won't eat.

They'd been having to force feed her f/t fuzzies/pinkies. I'm not sure how old she is or what the original breeder had been feeding her or if they even made sure she would eat. Right now, she's sitting at 105g, she's tiny. (Granted, Bobbitt isn't the biggest snake, but she's at 178g and about... 7-9m old, I think.) I know Eeek is skinny and needs to eat, any suggestions on getting her to eat?

I haven't tried to feed her yet, I'm waiting till it's feeding day for Bobbitt, hoping that after feeding Bobbitt and doing it infront of Eeek, plus the smell from the feeding tank will entice her to eat. Bobbitt gets 2x large mice every 7-8 days. (If she 'says' she's hungry, I'll feed her. Thus far Eeek hasn't shown any signs of being hungry or hunting.) I'm planning on trying her on a live hopper, seeing if maybe it's just the f/t she won't touch. (That's what she'd been getting force fed) Bobbitt will not touch F/t, so I'm thinking it might be the same thing. (I know, huge debate about f/t vs live vs f/k. ) Bobbitt will spit out the f/t and f/k so I'm beyond careful with her.

Suggestions anyone

i have a question for those of u that have had to assist , before force feeding did u try feeding live or stunned live?, i feed my snakes live but i stun the food first , just wondering if u would prefer force feeding over live, i have never had to force feed luckily but i think i would prefer to feed live first if they would take it, also i wanted to know for a snake that has had to be force feed more than once , do you think that the snake may start to associate the smell of prey or feeding time with being force feed causing stress and possibly make the animal dislike food all around ? thanks for the great post as i may need this info one day .

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Originally Posted by ejseoane

i have a question for those of u that have had to assist , before force feeding did u try feeding live or stunned live?, i feed my snakes live but i stun the food first , just wondering if u would prefer force feeding over live, i have never had to force feed luckily but i think i would prefer to feed live first if they would take it, also i wanted to know for a snake that has had to be force feed more than once , do you think that the snake may start to associate the smell of prey or feeding time with being force feed causing stress and possibly make the animal dislike food all around ? thanks for the great post as i may need this info one day .

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Assist feeding is done when an hatching refuses to eat on it´s own, it is only done when everything else have failed.

Breeders do start their hatching on live, very few start them on F/T

It has nothing to do with preferring assisting over live, anyone breeding is experienced enough to know that this is stressful procedure that should be avoided, however if you have an hatchling that refuse to eat on his own 6 weeks after coming out of it' egg you have no choice.

You say you never had to do this and I think that´s great, however how many BP did you hatch?

I had a female I assisted for 5 months before she finally decided to eat on her own and she never had any issue afterward.