My 1 1/2 year old leopard gecko

Guys meet Riley! Never posted my Gecko anywhere on the internet till now

He is the laziest thing I have ever seen!

He loves being taken out and feasting on crickets especially! The poor little thing sucks at eating so I MUST hand feed it directly to its mouth most of the time. It can catch on it's own but fails more the half the time haha

It also loves to climb just about everything and inevitably fall off all the time.

These are the lights I use for it at night. A 25watt one for summer and 75 watt for when it gets cold.
It doesnt like the 75watt in summer. It gets as far away from it as possible. Too hot most likely. He has his heat pad right beneath where he sleeps.

I have its sleeping place to face the outside as it got so used to it having like that when it was small. When I face it the other way so it can be hidden, he sleeps on the outside of it near the glass. Idk he is just a weirdo. I never had a true hiding spot but I will need to upgrade from the small grey one has for a bigger proper one.

Can anyone give me pointers because I probably need some?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b820ad6c6d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f41a1cafd6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b262ada0e0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...099d785cac.jpg

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A couple of more dumb pictures https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fa0a1da42c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e06212c51e.jpg

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Aww, Riley is very cute. Your "dumb pictures" aren't dumb to me, they are adorable, I love that little face. :)

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Originally Posted by Jaime_ls3

Guys meet Riley! Never posted my Gecko anywhere on the internet till now

He is the laziest thing I have ever seen!

He loves being taken out and feasting on crickets especially! The poor little thing sucks at eating so I MUST hand feed it directly to its mouth most of the time. It can catch on it's own but fails more the half the time haha

It also loves to climb just about everything and inevitably fall off all the time.

These are the lights I use for it at night. A 25watt one for summer and 75 watt for when it gets cold.
It doesnt like the 75watt in summer. It gets as far away from it as possible. Too hot most likely. He has his heat pad right beneath where he sleeps.

I have its sleeping place to face the outside as it got so used to it having like that when it was small. When I face it the other way so it can be hidden, he sleeps on the outside of it near the glass. Idk he is just a weirdo. I never had a true hiding spot but I will need to upgrade from the small grey one has for a bigger proper one.

Can anyone give me pointers because I probably need some?https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...b820ad6c6d.jpghttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...f41a1cafd6.jpghttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...b262ada0e0.jpghttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...099d785cac.jpg

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He reminds me a bit of my two eldest leos; my female (Super hypo tangerine) who is about 8 1/2, and my male (Super hypo tangerine carrot tail baldy) who is 8. :P

I keep my leos in 20 gallons (my two females share one and have done so for 7 or so years now. I know some would disagree with this.), and Atticus, my male, is housed on his own. The 20 gallon long is perfect for providing a solid temp gradient in my opinion, and I provide numerous hiding places throughout the length of the tank, which allow them to feel hidden and secure.

Do you have the UTH hooked up to a thermostat?

I would get a temp gun, if you don't already have one. Too hot, or too cold can be very dangerous or cause other health problems. Those tank thermometers can be off by 10 degrees or more. And do you provide a humid hide?

My geckos have a basking temp of approximately 92, air temps between 80-85, and the coolest end is no lower than 70 degrees, but is right about 75. I provide a ceramic heat emitter during the cooler months.

I am very wary with allowing them branches to climb, as leopard geckos are very clumsy climbers. They'll try anyway of course, but a bad fall can cause injury. I only mention this as my boyfriend had a leo, and provided branches in the tank. The little guy tried to climb, then slipped and broke it's leg. Not meant to be morbid, but just a word of caution.

Sorry to hammer you with questions, but these things are important. I will say, he looks very healthy with a nicely plump tail.

My leo won't eat crickets but he will eat worms if I hand feed him. He sucks at hunting too even when a bowl of worms is provided.

Leos are amazingly easy to care for. To save some money, you can check out some plastic plant dishes or a small bowl at a dollar store. Cut a hole and it is ready to go. I can't tell if you have a humid hide but I strongly recommend having one to avoid any potential shedding issues. You can pick up a plastic container, cut a hole and add wet moss (Buy it from a hardware store) inside to make a humid hide.

And that stick on temperature gauge is not accurate. You will need to measure temps using a digital thermometer or temp gun. I use UTH with a thermostat and skip the lights if the room temp is around 77-80F.

In one of the pictures, I see him on loose substrate...but others on paper towels? Is he currently on paper towels?

If not, I would recommend switching back. Loose substrate like that makes for a very high risk of impaction.

I used to have substrate above its grey hide which is too small now.when it was shedding time I would spray water on the substrate and inside the gray hideout. I have recently got rid of the substrate as I read it can grow bacteria.everything is on paper towels now.

I have not gotten a chance to make a humid area but a container with moss sounds perfect and ima switch to that for shedding now.

I do not have a digital thermostat but now I think I should buy a couple for my new baby chinese dragon as well. One with both humidity and temps.

I put the peice of branch in there last night just to see what it would do with it. It just ignores it. It was meant for my water dragon but I'm waiting for parts to come in so I can make the water dragon's terrarium. I will take it out.

One thing I should definitely do is get a couple more hides and get rid of the rock 2 fake plants

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Originally Posted by Awesomethepossum

Do you have the UTH hooked up to a thermostat?

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If you mean the heat pad. No I do not have it hooked up to a thermostat. I dont have it connecting when it's hot like these days (i live in california and it's like 100 outside for 2 months everyday in summer).when the heat pad is connected in the summer it doesnt like to lay above where it is at.

During the day my ambient air temp (according to the guage) is at about 80°F.i have never had a basking spot for Riley, as a he gets far away from both 75watt and heat pad areas when they are on day or night. He will actually just lay right outside in of any hiding area.

I will need to invest in a digital thermostat as I truly do not know what the temps are like...they may be higher then 80 ambient. The heat pad on the floor beats me but it may be high cause when it's on it doesnt like to lay near it especially in these summer days

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Uth
"Under tank heater"
Got it!
Sorry new to this reptile forum lingo

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Little Riley just watched a 1 hour episode of "the 100" on netdlix... literally did not move for an hour and started the the 55 inch tv in my room!!!now it had enough and it walking about on the bed. Time to put him back

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I think you have the thermostat and thermometer confused. Thermometer measures temps. Thermostats, like the one for your house air conditioning, controls the temp. Without a thermostat, those heat pads or lamps will get hot and cook your pet. For example, a heat pad can have temps over 99F if a thermostat does not control it at a safe temp of around 90-93F. You can pick up a thermostat on Amazon for about $35-45 and a digital thermometer at most pet stores (Temp guns are available on Amazon too).

Humid hides are not only for shedding purposes. In the wild, these lizards would spend a lot of time during the hot days hiding in between rocks or small burrows where it is cooler (Hence I don't go hotter than 90F on my UTH but many owners go up to 95F, which is fine too. Fortunately lizards are not like snakes and know when to move away and they are hardy as heck) and humid. My leo would use it almost all the time. I think it provides some stimulation for them too. Also, your gecko can decide for himself when he needs the humidity for shedding or not, instead of raising the entire tank's humidity which is not good for them.

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Originally Posted by Jaime_ls3

If you mean the heat pad. No I do not have it hooked up to a thermostat. I dont have it connecting when it's hot like these days (i live in california and it's like 100 outside for 2 months everyday in summer).when the heat pad is connected in the summer it doesnt like to lay above where it is at.

During the day my ambient air temp (according to the guage) is at about 80°F.i have never had a basking spot for Riley, as a he gets far away from both 75watt and heat pad areas when they are on day or night. He will actually just lay right outside in of any hiding area.

I will need to invest in a digital thermostat as I truly do not know what the temps are like...they may be higher then 80 ambient. The heat pad on the floor beats me but it may be high cause when it's on it doesnt like to lay near it especially in these summer days

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To make a leopard gecko happy, you need:

-A 20 gallon tank minimum for an adult (floor space is preferred over height). They need a temperature gradient to thermoregulate.

-An appropriately sized UTH (under tank heater) on one side, under the outside of the tank, to provide belly heat (which is crucial for digestion)

-A thermostat (method of temp regulation), which the UTH needs to be plugged into. With this, you can set the UTH at a specific temperature, and it will be maintained in this way. These thermostats have a probe, which senses the temp at the site it is placed. Some put the probe under the tank directly ol n the UTH, whole others secure it inside the tank. Again, directly on the UTH.

-Appropriate flooring/substrate: Paper towels are easy to clean and safe, so this is preferred for most. Some use play sand (never use calci-sand, or anything else) but with any loose substrate there is always a risk of impaction, as leos lick everything.

-Hides: There needs to be at least one hide on each end of the tank. They need to be large enough for the leo to hide and feel secure.

-A humid hide, with moss, to aid in shedding (without proper humidity, shed skin can be retained on areas, such as toes and can result in constriction (which results in loss of toes)). If proper humidity isn't allowed, the leo can also develop respiratory infections or even bacterial infections in the eyes.

-A temp gun, to manually gauge temperatures in the tank with accuracy. This is a must-have.

-An appropriately-sized water dish, which can also help provide some humidity if needed.

-A CHE, or an additional source of heat which can be used as needed ti maintain a proper temp gradient. This must also be hooked to a thermostat.

- Supplementation. Multivitamins, as well as calcium with vitamin D. Feeders should be dusted regularly, but not daily.

I also provide a dish with some calcium at all times, although some may disagree.

If you find him trying to escape heat, or constantly hiding on the coolest end of the tank, that could indicate he is overheating- which is why the temp gun is important. You mention temps of 100 degrees for 2 months. Make sure his tank never reaches those heights, and if this becomes a risk of occurring, move his tank to a cooler, more appropriate area of your house (which you can even determine with the temp gun) and away from windows, or direct sunlight. Dehydration, heat stroke and even death become a risk in those conditions. They need to be able to move about their tank to regulate their body temps- be it 92-95 degrees, or 73-75.

If you can get a Herpstat 2. This will resolve your heating issues. The reason i say a Herpstat is it has Bask Assist which really helps when using overhead bulbs. I realize its a bit expensive, but it is worth it. I love my Herpstat. I have it powering my heat tape in a VE-6. You can go with a cheaper option, but a word of warning. You will end up spending more in the long run if you get a cheap Tstat. Herpstats last for a long time, while the cheap ones die out within 3 years. Personally I'd rather have peace of mind.https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...products_id=26 They are $195.

Thanks for the extra tips and extra knowledge to take the best care of my leopard. I have some about half of everything right. The temp area (which happens to be the most important) is what I will need to work more on. Will definitely take it serious and consider getting these products for the safety of Riley!!!

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Originally Posted by Jaime_ls3

Thanks for the extra tips and extra knowledge to take the best care of my leopard. I have some about half of everything right. The temp area (which happens to be the most important) is what I will need to work more on. Will definitely take it serious and consider getting these products for the safety of Riley!!!

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Leopard geckos are amazing pets, and with the right care can live a very long time. You clearly care about Riley, otherwise you wouldn't have come on the forums :) Keep doing your research, but yes, please consider getting a thermostat and a temp gun. I wish both of you the best.