Starting to fail at husbandry…

My woes started about three weeks ago. Before then my BP was eating weekly, seemed content, etc. Three weeks ago she failed to eat a rat that I think was too big. Actually wrapped the rat any failed strike attempts and the rat escaped.

Tried again with a much smaller rat a few days later and she didn’t even attempt but then noticed the blue eyes and figured shed was underway. Because I don’t have the best humidity in the tank (more on that below) I made a humidity box with moss and even put her in there (because after a night it didn’t look like she explored it at all) and she got put after a few minutes.

She shed all but about an inch worth right past her head. Also because of the experiences with the rats (I’m now a Rat Dad with a three story cage and three baby rats haha) I tried to switch to f/t. First one I tried a week ago and she didn’t take at all. Thought maybe it was the incomplete shed so I tried the pillow method (twice) and no luck.

Gave her some time and thought I saw signs of her being hungry (waiting by her hide entrance). And I think I read that if it’s just a small piece that wasn’t shed and it’s not on the eyes or the tail that you could let it go until the next shed. So I tried another f/t yesterday. Thawed the rat out in the fridge overnight and learned the hard way that putting them in water that’s too hot = exploded rat. So that happened. Then my third and last rat from the three I bought I did it more slowly.

My BP was out of the hide when I offered the rat and she promptly left to go in the hide. My BP also is a slow eater. Whenever she ate live prey it would be at least 30 minutes before she even unraveled and stuck her head out of the hide. So I ‘brained’ the rat (unsure if I did it right, basically stuck a knife in its skull, heard the skull crack, and exposed some red but it didn’t leak out much) and left the rat draped over wood (so as not to pick up substrate) and put the lamp over that spot to keep it up warm.

Waited several hours. Nothing. Snake went from one hide to the other so actively passed the food.

So I’m feeling a little discouraged but also unsure how bad the situation is. I know BP’s sometimes don’t eat for a while. The f/t method feels disgusting (they’re all floppy and liquidy, like a smushed jelly sandwich) and it’s hard to imagine anything wanting to eat that.

The biggest thing I can think of for tank parameters is the humidity. The temperature has been fine but I have had a hard time keeping the humidity up, even with aluminum foil on the top. Are there in-cage humidifiers I could use?

If you were me would you offer live food next time to just make sure she’s eating?

Any thoughts/encouragement/advice welcome.

Well, first of all you’re not failing and you just need to tweak a few things. Be encouraged because it’s a process and we all are there or have been there, or are heading there. Please give a more detailed description of the enclosure and how you are heating and regulating the heat. Measuring the heat and humidity. How old is this reptile?

20 gallon tank. Lamp overhead heater, 60W night lamp. I have a digital thermometer on both ends that measures temp and humidity. Consistently 75-80 on cool side and 85-90 on warm side. Humidity has been in the 40's on warm side and 50's cool side (as j type right now it's 85 degrees and 41 humidity on warm side and 75 degrees and 58 humidity on cool). Sometimes I mist regularly and get humidity into the 60's/70's but honestly can go a few days without misting. Identical hide on both sides. Some fake foilage and a wooden underpass and back and sides of tank covered. Both hides also double as water bowls.

I got her about 8 weeks ago. Unsure of age but juvenile, was 133g about a week after I got her. Ate live hoppers and fuzzies until this all started three weeks ago.

First off, I just want to reassure you that most people make their "share" of mistakes with keeping snakes, & BPs are not the easiest species to start with either. We've ALL learned from our many mistakes, which is the whole reason we have a forum like this.

Before I forget- don't try to feed your BP when it's "out of the hide", as BPs are nocturnal ambush-predators, & instinctively fear their OWN predators when "out in the open". Your snake doesn't logically know it's a safe, captive pet- so most ppl have better success when offering prey when the snake is peeking out of a hide in the evening/night hours. (& obviously not when they're in shed, etc)

What substrate are you using? That will impact the humidity FAR better than misting now & then. And to keep the humidity IN the tank, you must restrict MOST of the air-flow.

As for what you're getting right, it's coming here & asking questions- we can help you sort this out; the only dumb question is the one not asked. ;)

Cypress mulch. I’ve done spot cleans since I got it so keep it clean but it’s obviously dried out by now. I also keep aluminum over about 85% of the opening (just enough to let the lamp sit on).

The glass enclosure is a problematic one when it comes to housing tropical species reptiles. One , because glass is poor conductor of heat and two because it doesn’t do a good job in keeping and providing the security and secretive environment that pythons crave. Now, there are a few things you can do to offset the minor setbacks in a glass enclosure. The easy thing to do first is get a thermostat and a under tank heating mat to immediately control and regulate a warm side of the enclosure. The Jump Start thermostat is a relatively inexpensive one that has a pretty good beginning thermostat reputation. Amazon carries them . Right away you need to consider darkening three sides of the glass either with dark brown or black construction paper. Consider switching the bulb heating to ceramic heating lamps.

To clarify, I did read about the negatives of glass tanks shortly after getting it. The back and sides are all covered. Back has a background and the two sides are covered with black foam board.

From my thermometers I think I have the heat part under control but the humidity isn’t as consistent.

If you do use UTH, keep in mind that the substrate (cypress mulch) cannot be very deep over it, or it will act as an insulator & not allow the heat to rise into the tank where it's needed.

Now for a "biggy": how much is this snake being handled or interacted with? Nothing throws off a snake's appetite like being expected to be a "social pet" & to like being handled. Keep in mind that the only thing that picks up a snake in the wild is a predator about to eat them. If you felt your life was in danger, would you be thinking "what's for lunch?" Nope. :rolleyes: And neither is your snake.

With a new snake of any age, it's best to do NO handling until after the snake has easily eaten 3 meals at normal intervals & without refusals (except for when in shed).

BPs & many other snakes really appreciate privacy- they evolved this way, & they rely on instincts to survive. (Covering 3 sides of the tank as Albert Clark mentioned should help too.)

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Originally Posted by MedicalAuthor

To clarify, I did read about the negatives of glass tanks shortly after getting it. The back and sides are all covered. Back has a background and the two sides are covered with black foam board.

From my thermometers I think I have the heat part under control but the humidity isn’t as consistent.

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Ok, that’s good. A temperature ( IR)gun is a more accurate way to monitor your surface temperatures. Thermometers are sometimes inaccurate and unreliable.

I’ve actually left her alone a lot recently. I let my son hold her about a week ago for like 15 minutes and then put her back. I think that day or the day after I did the pillow method. That was weekend before last and I haven’t handled her since or even messed with her cage much. Before that I’ve taken her out maybe once every 1-2 weeks, usually a couple days before feeding and only for like ten minutes.