Feeding help and what I have tried so far???

I acquired a striped ball python from a local pet store. He was nice looking and nice thickness in the main part of the body. We estimate him to be 7 to 8 months old. I have had him for 3 and half weeks. He fed the Wednesday before I acquired him. He has not eaten at my home at all. I am keeping him in a aquarium type enclosure. Temp on the cool side is in the mid 80s. Humidity is 70ish. He has a towel over the cage to reduce light entering. 2 hides (one on the cool side and one on the warm side) which from time to time he travels between. I have tried several things to get him to eat. He was in his new cage unhandled for 1 week. It is now been 4 weeks. Here is the list of what I have tried.

1) Feeding in a feeder box. Offered 2 kinds of rats of appropriate size on 2 separate nights.
2) Feeding in his cage where he lives by introducing the rat to the cage near him.
3) Feeding in his cage where I introduce him to the cage after I have taken him out of the cage for a moment.

I am starting to get worried that he might not eat and have even seen videos of people getting a snake to eat by placing the rat in the snakes mouth (dead rat in this case, I have been trying to feed live to far). Not sure this will be the best rout?????

He still looks reasonably healthy so far. He is very scared of being handled and strikes at least once when held. He also has struck at the mouse but was more in fear than hunger. I am open to suggestions here. There is so much conflicting information on the internet. Some say that they can go months not eating. This young cant be health????? At what point should I truly be worried? What else should I try?

you do not assist feed an animal (placing feeder into the mouth of the snake) that knows how to eat. you need to fix your husbandry before trying anything that extreme. a healthy looking snake can last a lot longer than you'd think without food.

what size enclosure? glass? tub? what are you using for heat? how are you regulating your heat source(s)? how are you measuring your temperatures and humidity? what type of hides, and are they identical? how much does the snake weigh? what size prey are you offering?

stop all handling until the snake is eating regularly. do not bother the snake AT ALL unless checking for poop/urates and changing water.

EDIT: welcome to the forum!!! fortunately this is a common problem with new keepers, and usually pretty easy to fix as it's husbandry related 99.8% of the time. :)

I was just about to say pretty much what tttaylorrr already said.

In order to help you, we'll need more info.

The main 2 reasons new snakes don't eat are:
a) husbandry issues and
b) stress.

So, providing the info tttaylorrr mentioned will help us determine whether husbandry, stress or both is the issue and help you get your snake eating.

You definitely don't want to assist feed. That is the absolute last resort and we can help you avoid that.
Lime tttaylorrr said, no handling either.

How much does the snake weighs?

What is the enclosure size?

What are your EXACT temps, what type of thermometer do you use, and where do you take you readings?

Are those hides tight and I mean snug around the body like a shell on a turtles back?

What was he previously feeding?

How many times have you tried feeding him total and how space apart.

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1) Feeding in a feeder box. Offered 2 kinds of rats of appropriate size on 2 separate nights.
2) Feeding in his cage where he lives by introducing the rat to the cage near him
3) Feeding in his cage where I introduce him to the cage after I have taken him out of the cage for a moment.

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Number 2&3 are part of the reason you failed, other reasons could be husbandry related hence the need for details.

To answer the questions.

My aquarium stile tank is 20 gallon size. I do keep a towel over the entire tank.

The cooler side fluctuates between 75 and 83 degrees. Under tank heating pad for the warmer side.

The hide is a little larger on the warmer side than the cooler side. The cooler side hide is snug. He does fit but barely.

Temp and humidity is measured digitally.

I think he is stressed.

I don't have a way to weigh him. I will get a gram scale.

I think someone said that feeding (2 and 3) in his cage is bad. Everyone said not to handle him. How am I supposed to put him in the feeding box then?

Feed him in his enclosure. It is a myth to feed In a feeding box. And we need exact temps. What his his hot side temp measured at the glass without any substrate? Is your uth on a thermostat? If not unplug it. Pictures help a great deal too. Use the tapatalk app to upload pictures.

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Originally Posted by Deborah

How much does the snake weighs?

What is the enclosure size?

What are your EXACT temps, what type of thermometer do you use, and where do you take you readings?

Are those hides tight and I mean snug around the body like a shell on a turtles back?

What was he previously feeding?

How many times have you tried feeding him total and how space apart.
Number 2&3 are part of the reason you failed, other reasons could be husbandry related hence the need for details.

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He was eating white rats live. The pet store thought that he might want a species of rat native to his organs and offered one that has black and brown patches. They are just a little larger than his head.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

My aquarium stile tank is 20 gallon size. I do keep a towel over the entire tank.

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there's a chance you might need to downsize the enclosure and get him to eat. this method written by Deborah is her tried and true method for new hatchlings and young snakes. read this over and see if it is an option for you. and remember: it's temporary.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

The cooler side fluctuates between 75 and 83 degrees. Under tank heating pad for the warmer side.

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that is a large swing. how are you controlling your UTH? ALL heat sources MUST be regulated by a thermoSTAT or other type of electronic control.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

The hide is a little larger on the warmer side than the cooler side. The cooler side hide is snug. He does fit but barely.

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2 identical cave-like (one opening) hides is S.O.P. for ball pythons. they need to be TIGHT and almost fit like a shell. the reason for identical hides is so they don't favor one over another and sacrifice thermoregulating for security.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

Temp and humidity is measured digitally.

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good!

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

I think he is stressed.

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most definitely. ;)

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

I don't have a way to weigh him. I will get a gram scale.

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knowing the weight of the snake is the best way to determine overall health and monitor their growth. please get a scale.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

I think someone said that feeding (2 and 3) in his cage is bad. Everyone said not to handle him. How am I supposed to put him in the feeding box then?

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this is the only exception to that guideline.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

Feed him in his enclosure. It is a myth to feed In a feeding box. And we need exact temps. What his his hot side temp measured at the glass without any substrate? Is your uth on a thermostat? If not unplug it. Pictures help a great deal too. Use the tapatalk app to upload pictures.

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I will tonight when off work.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

I will tonight when off work.

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when was the last time you offered? offering too much can cause a cycle of stress and more refusals. best give him 7 days of privacy before offering again.