How to set up a PVC cage (AP T8) With Pictures!

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Originally Posted by rdoyle

If i was getting 1 ball python what size should I get?

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T-8 or T10.
T10 is higher so easier to reach in to clean and allow snakes to climb ect..
T8 inside Hight is 10". Doors 8".
T10 inside hight is 13". Doors 10".
Aprox....

Thanks.

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Last question would it be good for a babie

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Originally Posted by rdoyle

Last question would it be good for a babie

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You can buy the $20 divider that makes it (2) 24"x24" enclosures then when the snakes 6 months old take the divider out. HOWEVER, I put mine in a 48" by 4 months as long as there not stressed snakes and they are eat good ect.... So If i was going to do it id save the $20 and just provide good hides and some cool stuff for them to make then feel safe.. (Things to climb on "clutter ect..) and they should be 100% ok.

What a great thread. With an almost 5-year anniversary from when this thread originally started till today, this has all been great information. The Serpent Merchant should be getting paid by Animal Plastics, as I have no doubt that this thread has caused many "maybe" sales to turn into "definite" sales. Thank you, Aaron, and everyone else that's contributed so much great information. Between my sick kids, the wife, and work, this thread has taken me almost 12 hours to read through and absorb.

With that said, I too am getting ready to order a T8. And, I too, also new to the hobby with my first bp still not in my possession, have many questions for the setup I hope to put together. But, I think I will just start a different thread, due to so many different variables. But, just wanted to say thank you.

Sorry if this has been addressed already but question!

Does the flexwatt still need to be placed in the middle if the divider will only be temporary? For example, I plan on using the divider when my bp is young but when he gets older/grows to adult size I'd remove the divider so he has the full cage (I'm thinking of getting a T10 or T11)

Alternatively can the flexwatt just be moved or once taped is it kinda a sealed, permanent deal? I'm a total noob here lol

Thank you so much for this post!

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Originally Posted by Mangiapane85

What's not available any longer? T8 cages? They definitely are. Animal Plastics is doing very well as a company and their cages are actually on sale right now. Call them and speak with Ali. They will customize the cage just how you want it. :)


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Whoa, I had no idea they could customize your cage. How customized are we talking here? For example would I be able to ask for a basking shelf but only on one side of the cage? Unique cage dimensions?

Hey I just ordered a t10 and have a question about heat .

The cage is only for one bp , so I asked for the Uth on the right side .
i am also going to get a rhp from bob , my question is do I have them mount it in the center , or on the left ?
Fyi the cage will be in a room that gets down to mid 60's .

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Originally Posted by Gsxr1100

Hey I just ordered a t10 and have a question about heat .

The cage is only for one bp , so I asked for the Uth on the right side .
i am also going to get a rhp from bob , my question is do I have them mount it in the center , or on the left ?
Fyi the cage will be in a room that gets down to mid 60's .

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You can mount it where ever you want.. I only use the RHP so mine is on one side, Basking side at 90 so the far side is 80(cool side) and my house is 60 to 72 depending on time of year.
If your just using it as ambient 78-81 i'd still put it to one side in case you want to stop using that flexwatt. That way you dont move it later drilling unnecessary holes in your PVC. IMO

For anyone that is not aware, RBI is doing free shipping for over $100 and ships WAY faster than basically anyone else for these things. $275 or so for a 4x2x1 enclosure with real nice hinges and locks (similar quality to Boaphile) and the heating kit SHIPPED. Kind of hard to beat... about to buy one for my 6.5ft DH Sunglow that is gonna breed next season.

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Originally Posted by ScottyDsntKnow

For anyone that is not aware, RBI is doing free shipping for over $100 and ships WAY faster than basically anyone else for these things. $275 or so for a 4x2x1 enclosure with real nice hinges and locks (similar quality to Boaphile) and the heating kit SHIPPED. Kind of hard to beat... about to buy one for my 6.5ft DH Sunglow that is gonna breed next season.

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Wish I would have known this before ordering the T8 few days ago. Oh, well. I know I'll be happy with the T8.

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Originally Posted by CharlesMTF

Wish I would have known this before ordering the T8 few days ago. Oh, well. I know I'll be happy with the T8.

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No you don't bro... AP is one of the best out there and the customer service plus 1" thick PVC is why they are a leader in the industry just like Pro Panel compaired to RBI. Pro Panel is the Leader as far as Safety & Longevity! Not one Fire or Melted RHP not to metion there is no off gassing and you dont have to run them like a raped ape to get your enclosure up to steady temps.. :gj:

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Originally Posted by Mr Sully

No you don't bro... AP is one of the best out there and the customer service plus 1" thick PVC is why they are a leader in the industry just like Pro Panel compaired to RBI. Pro Panel is the Leader as far as Safety & Longevity! Not one Fire or Melted RHP not to metion there is no off gassing and you dont have to run them like a raped ape to get your enclosure up to steady temps.. :gj:

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hehe... ok, then I'm glad I'd seen this after my order! Thanks.

Hey everyone, i plan on upgrading my emclosures and I was wondering if i could house two male bp in a t10 with the divider? I think yea, because they stay small, but what about two females? I was also looking at the intructions here and it says you place the flexwatt in the middle when u have two snakes, but it looks like each snake would barely get any belly heat like that, im just saying, ive never even seen an ap enclosure in person so i wouldnt know lol

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So, good information here.

When you buy a T8 you can request to have holes drilled for temp probes and thermostats. All the need is exact size and placement of the holes!

I'm going through this now and I don't know exactly where I should put holes. Does anyone have some clarity here?

IMOH, a T8 divided is going to be small, about the size of a 20gal, even for a male. Plus trying to reach the back of that tank through an 8" opening to clean will be fun. I personally have a T10 with a ProProducts RHP and my 7 month old, 500g, 2.5' female has the run of the whole shootin' match. Just remember eventually you will need two hides big enough for the snake plus a water bowl.

As for heat yes, AP will put cutouts in the bottom and If you divide it will be in the center if not it will be offset to either side, the divider is I believe .5" thick and the flexwatt panel is about 10.5" wide, so you should have in the neighborhood of 5" of heated space.

For holes I wouldn't be much help as I used an RHP and ran my herpstat through the RHP hole but for a thermometer I set mine up similar to Mr. Sully's here are some picshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d406246383.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...48fdeca252.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dc5a2299b0.jpg

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Ok hope this thread is still alive everyone where do I put the rhp in the center or to one side? Im looking at a 30x18x12 fextape or no and the room gets cold plz could use the help thanks.

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Originally Posted by Mac27

Ok hope this thread is still alive everyone where do I put the rhp in the center or to one side? Im looking at a 30x18x12 fextape or no and the room gets cold plz could use the help thanks.

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Are you splitting the cage or no?

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Originally Posted by Chappy4o

Are you splitting the cage or no?

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Nope and thank you for replying.....

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Originally Posted by Mac27

Nope and thank you for replying.....

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No problem, if you are not splitting it, you will offset the flexwatt to one side or the other, give Ali a call at Animal Plastics and she will be able to give you particulars. I went with a pro panels RHP in mine (see above)

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Originally Posted by Chappy4o

No problem, if you are not splitting it, you will offset the flexwatt to one side or the other, give Ali a call at Animal Plastics and she will be able to give you particulars. I went with a pro panels RHP in mine (see above)

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Ok will do you think i should put the rhp above the flex watt? Than set the rhp to ??? till the cold side is 80? I ask bc i have a glass 20gallon long right now and have uth hot side and che in the middle and adjust with dimmer till the ambient is 80 on the cold? Thanks again pvc is got me in a frenzy lol

Technically there is no need for flexwat if you're using a RHP. Talk to Bob at Pro Products.

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Originally Posted by BR8080

Technically there is no need for flexwat if you're using a RHP. Talk to Bob at Pro Products.

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What he said. I only use the RHP and I have great temps hot and cold side using a herpstat 2. I went with a PP RHP and went one size larger than what Bob@ pro products recommended (I think it's the P3??)

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Ok sounds good im thinking a 40w but ill see what they have to say thanks everyone.

Just talk to Bob at pro products and tell him what you plan on getting, he will ship your panel to Ali at Animal Plastics and they will install it for you really great people

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I got my ap t10 a couple of months ago , had bob send rhp to Ali , it came out perfect .
i did get the flexwAt as a backup , but I am not using it , I use herbstat2 , for temp and the other side to control lights .

all I can say is that I should have bought this setup from the beginning , temps and humidity stay perfect , unlike when I had a glass tank .

My Pro-Products RHP's have been running non-stop for roughly six years now in my AP T8's.........without issue.

You are making a GREAT investment. They really are the best on the market and they've saved me SOOO much money on ceramic heat emitters.

Thanks guys I really want this set up glass is definitely not any fun one more question my bp is 220g hes only a few months old getting fat Im in michigan so its cold at night the house gets around 65 my question is if in the 30x18x12 would be ok with a 40w rph or should I go the other route 36x24x12 with 80w rph? Is that to big for him? Hes eating great just dont want to mess it up.

This thread sealed the deal for me. After scouring the internet for different plastic enclosures, after reading this (whole!) thread, I'm going with a T8! I'll be giving them a call after my next payday!

Thanks for all the hardwork that went into this thread (both initially, and as it has continued on!)

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

I order 48 inches of 12" heat tape and slightly offset it on the cage so the cords come out one side. You could add a few more inches on, but I really don't see any reason to.

You will hear varying opinions on how much heat tape to use. Generally speaking ⅓ - ½ of the bottom of the cage is recommended. I use 12" without any issues. An 8" tape would be ideal, 6 might work but it is a little thin for my tastes.

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I’m about to order the T8 and have decided on running the 4’ of 12” across the back half of the enclosure. For this configuration, where do you put the thermostat probe?


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OK, so i just ordered a 3x2x15" PVC cage from boamaster (didn't want to wait 3+ months from AP). I got a 40 watt RHP and 24" flourescent light fixture. My question is, should i use flexwatt or not? Do I need to provide belly heat if the rhp is maintaining the hot side temp? I have her in a tub right now, with a CHE and flexwatt. It takes both to get enough heat without dropping the humidity. I am wondering if I need the flxwatt, or if putting something for her to hang out on that is warmed by the RHP, like a piece of slate, would be ok?

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Originally Posted by reptilemom25

OK, so i just ordered a 3x2x15" PVC cage from boamaster (didn't want to wait 3+ months from AP). I got a 40 watt RHP and 24" flourescent light fixture. My question is, should i use flexwatt or not? Do I need to provide belly heat if the rhp is maintaining the hot side temp? I have her in a tub right now, with a CHE and flexwatt. It takes both to get enough heat without dropping the humidity. I am wondering if I need the flxwatt, or if putting something for her to hang out on that is warmed by the RHP, like a piece of slate, would be ok?

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Where did you end up with this? For longer cages with a RHP on one end, it may be possible the gradient results in too low of a temp on the far end (I'm guessing not in your case). In that instance, a low end setting on a separate thermostat could regulate the low end temp of the cage in the event it is dropping too much. Checking temps would tell you one thing, observing where your animal hangs out could also be an indicator. Some people want to cycle day and night temps and I think the addition of flexwatt to an existing RHP in a two thermostat setup gives additional options for fine tuning.

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Originally Posted by XPLSV

Where did you end up with this? For longer cages with a RHP on one end, it may be possible the gradient results in too low of a temp on the far end (I'm guessing not in your case). In that instance, a low end setting on a separate thermostat could regulate the low end temp of the cage in the event it is dropping too much. Checking temps would tell you one thing, observing where your animal hangs out could also be an indicator. Some people want to cycle day and night temps and I think the addition of flexwatt to an existing RHP in a two thermostat setup gives additional options for fine tuning.

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I have found that the 40 watt RHP has done a great job. I get 88 hot side and 79-80 cool side. Astrid uses both.


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I recently got a T8 heated only by a 75 watt pro heat panel, and am using a herpstat 1! However, I’m having a lot of trouble getting the temps that I need! I either have hot side spots in excess of 99°, or cool side floor temps around 70-73 degrees! I currently have my probe hanging just above the cool side hide, and set to 80°. However, even with the probe reading 80° I appear to have uncomfortably low cool side temps sitting around 74° at the substrate, and a hottest temp of around 103° on top of his hot side hide. I can’t seem to get any help anywhere and I’m a bit desperate. What do I need to do to get this right?

Does anyone have pictures of the holes for the lighting/heat panels? What prevents slimmer species of snakes (kingsnakes, etc) from being able to escape?

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Originally Posted by widget

Does anyone have pictures of the holes for the lighting/heat panels? What prevents slimmer species of snakes (kingsnakes, etc) from being able to escape?

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I'm at work now, so no pics. The radiant heat panels have a small pre-cut hole to route through the electrical wire: the wire comes with no plug on the end. You push the wire through the hole, then cram it down into the slot, then you attach the provided plug by sticking the wire into the clamshell type plug and squeezing it shut with a pliers. No snake will fit through there. The LED lighting is similiarly routed through a pre-cut hole in the cage but has a mid-wire plug connection that the remainder of the wire-plug combination plugs into (think of a stereo headphone extension). Again, no snake will fit through that. I drilled some additional holes for temperature and humidity sensors.

When I get home tomorrow, I'll try and post a pic, unless someone has already provided one.

Thank you! If it’s too much work you don’t have to worry about the pictures, I just wanted to make sure they can’t escape.

I thought I'd share my experience in case anyone is interested in an AP T8 (quick ship)

I placed my order on Nov 12, 2020 and finally had it shipped out on Feb 17, 2021. ALOT longer than I expected from when I first called in and they said around 30-45 days. Currently in the process of dialing in my humidity/temps but I can tell it's going to be a lot easier than my glass tank I have right now.

I was recommended the Pro-Products PH3 75watt heater for this size and so far it's giving me a pretty good gradient with a temp probe in the middle of the enclosure towards the back wall.
What about the RHP itself? They write you can't burn your snake with it but it's like 180F depending if it's on or off with my laser thermometer. Do my temps really have to stabilize first?

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Originally Posted by jevenator

I thought I'd share my experience in case anyone is interested in an AP T8 (quick ship)

I placed my order on Nov 12, 2020 and finally had it shipped out on Feb 17, 2021. ALOT longer than I expected from when I first called in and they said around 30-45 days. Currently in the process of dialing in my humidity/temps but I can tell it's going to be a lot easier than my glass tank I have right now.

I was recommended the Pro-Products PH3 75watt heater for this size and so far it's giving me a pretty good gradient with a temp probe in the middle of the enclosure towards the back wall.
What about the RHP itself? They write you can't burn your snake with it but it's like 180F depending if it's on or off with my laser thermometer. Do my temps really have to stabilize first?

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What type of thermostat are you using? An on/off type will turn the panel on full blast until it reaches the temp and then turn off and could explain the 180° reading. It should mellow out a bit once stabilized though. I have two of the same set up and the panels regularly get 120°+ when running. Unless your snake figures out how to levitate and lay against the panel for extended periods you’ll be fine.


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Yeah, I think it's the on/off types. It's the ZooMed RepitiTemp RT-600. They're the "cheapest" I'd go with. Is an upgrade to something like a Herpstat 1 Basic worth it?

I've also seen different temp positions such as hanging it secured w/ some hot glue. The probes are pretty fat plastic ones where I'd need to drill a new hole if I wanted to run it through the wall. I wouldn't be able to pass it through the LED or RHP hole already drilled.

I've been running it for about 16 hours now.
Temps in F.

95-97 on top of rock hide
88-92 on substrate around hide and in hide
85-80 to about the middle
Then it's 75 on the opposite side near the wall I understand that the 75 if LOWEST you should really have. But then again my BP only goes out at night to explore and usually ends up coming back to her warm hide always. On my old/current setup I was able to get 90-92F belly heat 24/7 with a UTH.
83F in the air ambient.

Is this fine or should I play with a different temp probe position? It's currently set to 85F

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Originally Posted by jevenator

Yeah, I think it's the on/off types. It's the ZooMed RepitiTemp RT-600. They're the "cheapest" I'd go with. Is an upgrade to something like a Herpstat 1 Basic worth it?

I've also seen different temp positions such as hanging it secured w/ some hot glue. The probes are pretty fat plastic ones where I'd need to drill a new hole if I wanted to run it through the wall. I wouldn't be able to pass it through the LED or RHP hole already drilled.

I've been running it for about 16 hours now.
Temps in F.

95-97 on top of rock hide
88-92 on substrate around hide and in hide
85-80 to about the middle
Then it's 75 on the opposite side near the wall I understand that the 75 if LOWEST you should really have. But then again my BP only goes out at night to explore and usually ends up coming back to her warm hide always. On my old/current setup I was able to get 90-92F belly heat 24/7 with a UTH.
83F in the air ambient.

Is this fine or should I play with a different temp probe position? It's currently set to 85F

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That's about what my enclosures run for temps when I'm not heating the whole room, which I generally have between 75* at night and 78* during the day.
I'd say that it is beyond worth it to spring for a high quality thermostat. I run Herpstats exclusively in my room, a few of the H2 Redline and one Herpstat 4 currently. They're certainly not inexpensive, but they give me peace of mind which is priceless.
I also drill holes directly through the vents to make probe placement simple and versatile when needed. I know it's hard to drill holes all over those cages though after waiting 25yrs for them.
Sounds like you're close to dialed in though.

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Originally Posted by jmcrook

I know it's hard to drill holes all over those cages though after waiting 25yrs for them.

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Unrelated I know, but I'm 5 months into waiting on my T10 and this made me chuckle this morning.

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Originally Posted by Hugsplox

Unrelated I know, but I'm 5 months into waiting on my T10 and this made me chuckle this morning.

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Yeah the last cage I got from them I was quoted 10-12 weeks and it took 25 weeks. They’re great enclosures but I just can’t justify waiting that long especially when the quoted lead is now 5-6 months. It will surely take 7


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Originally Posted by jmcrook

Yeah the last cage I got from them I was quoted 10-12 weeks and it took 25 weeks. They’re great enclosures but I just can’t justify waiting that long especially when the quoted lead is now 5-6 months. It will surely take 7


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Oh I know it. I ordered mine because everyone here talked so highly about them, and I'm sure it won't disappoint, but I think based on the lead times if I need another one I'll order from another vendor. As much as I appreciate people recommending AP to me I just don't know how you justify the wait times.

Other users have pointed out Covid and the high demand for their enclosures being the issue, but I've said before, you can find forum posts from years ago about the wait times with them so this isn't a new issue.

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Originally Posted by Hugsplox

Unrelated I know, but I'm 5 months into waiting on my T10 and this made me chuckle this morning.

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More like 100 years lol. My T-10 took a little over 6 months/27-28 weeks when I was originally quoted 18-21 weeks. You might be seeing yours in a month.

The cage is great but they really need to work on delivery time and response time. They claim covid is part of the wait problem, but I was finding posts from 10 years ago complaining about the long wait times. I had to call several times and send more than 1 email before I would get a response when asking for updates. That's waiting 1 week between email and/or phone calls before sending another inquiry. They do eventually get back, aren't rude, and they delivered on their product. But from a customer standpoint, the wait time is their biggest flaw and it hasn't been addressed in at least a decade.

I have an 80 watt set at 85 F and the temp gradient goes from 85 on one side and turns into 76 on the other. The cage/RHP holds the temps steady when the house is 60 something. Snake digesting fine and bouncing from hide to hide. Happy with the end product so far.

An old but terriffic thread on T8 setup, thanks
I just received & built 3 T8s and I have one question that's been nagging me.
Can you sandwich Flexwatt heat tape between the cages without any spacing?
I see where the temp probe slots have been cut in the bottoms, so will use those, just wasn't sure
if others here that are using bottom heating with Flexwatt provide a space between the cages when stacked
or just sandwich the cages together on top of the Flexatt.
Thanks for any and all replies.
TurkE

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Originally Posted by Turkemon

An old but terriffic thread on T8 setup, thanks
I just received & built 3 T8s and I have one question that's been nagging me.
Can you sandwich Flexwatt heat tape between the cages without any spacing?
I see where the temp probe slots have been cut in the bottoms, so will use those, just wasn't sure
if others here that are using bottom heating with Flexwatt provide a space between the cages when stacked
or just sandwich the cages together on top of the Flexatt.
Thanks for any and all replies.
TurkE

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I use a ton of Flexwatt, though not the same kind of enclosures. Safe installation instructions for Flexwatt (& similar UTH) is to leave a little air gap to help prevent overheating. So personally, I'd never skip the gap, & there's different ways to accomplish that. I use Flexwatt under all my tanks & for those (which typically sit on top of a solid wood cabinet), I install rubber weather-stripping on the bottom edge of each tank (plastic molding), & then leave a little gap of .5-1.0" on opposite sides in the weather-stripping- this allows air circulation, & also leaves a gap so the weight of the tank is not sitting on the cord, which will cause damage & a safety issue in time. I'm sure you can find ppl who leave no gaps, & perhaps they seem to "get away with it" too, but personally (since the thought of a short caused by overheating that causes a house fire is not very appealing to me) I do as instructions suggest. ;) You don't need a huge gap, btw.

FYI- Flexwatt was not even designed with herpetology in mind- it was originally made for warming the roots of plants in commercial greenhouses, but we in herpetoculture "took it over" for our purposes. :D And now there are a number of "look-alike" products out there.

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Originally Posted by Trinityblood

More like 100 years lol. My T-10 took a little over 6 months/27-28 weeks when I was originally quoted 18-21 weeks. You might be seeing yours in a month.

The cage is great but they really need to work on delivery time and response time. They claim covid is part of the wait problem, but I was finding posts from 10 years ago complaining about the long wait times. I had to call several times and send more than 1 email before I would get a response when asking for updates. That's waiting 1 week between email and/or phone calls before sending another inquiry. They do eventually get back, aren't rude, and they delivered on their product. But from a customer standpoint, the wait time is their biggest flaw and it hasn't been addressed in at least a decade.

I have an 80 watt set at 85 F and the temp gradient goes from 85 on one side and turns into 76 on the other. The cage/RHP holds the temps steady when the house is 60 something. Snake digesting fine and bouncing from hide to hide. Happy with the end product so far.

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Just bought a T11 and I spoke to them. The lady I spoke with said min 6 months. Oh well, the price and quality can’t be beat.