Help! New BP Strikes Frequently

http://www.zoomed.com/html/reptitherm_manual.pdf
No where does Zoomed say in their manual that you should make the distance between the cage and pad greater if you want less heat to come through. In fact they say to put down repti carpet first directly over the pad, and then substrate. They also say that if the temperature in your house gets over 80*, to use a thermostat or rheostat. They say it a few times actually.

As to the crack in the bottom of the tank, they claim it is a stress crack, caused by liquid on the glass directly over the heat pad. They say either to side mount the pad, or to again use repti carpet or some sort of substrate that absorbs water quickly.

They also say that you should use one of their substrates, the repti bark, the repti carpet or the repti sand. If you use a light weight substrate, use repticarpet over the heater to avoid the snake from pushing it aside and laying directly on the glass, resulting in possible burns.

I did a quick google search and have found different sites talking about the zoo med UTH, and what they have to say about it:
http://www.zoomed.com/html/uth_helpful_hints.php
Under Tank Heater
Helpful Hints



1. The first thing to do when applying a U.T.H. is to read the instruction booklet!!!
2. A Reptitherm U.T.H. will heat the inside (ambient) air temperature of your terrarium a full 5°-10°F. warmer than the outside air temperature. If you need to increase your terrarium temperatures more than this, you can do one or more of the following:

Cover 2/3 of the screen top of your terrarium.

Add an additional overhead heat source such as a Basking Spot, Infrared Heat Lamp or Ceramic Heat Emitter.
3. We make a really neat Reptitherm Mini for those plastic "keeper" terrariums! Always put the heater on the back or side of these cages.
4. If you use loose substrate or your animal likes to dig, let us suggest placing a layer of Zoo Med Repti Cage Carpet under your bedding or place U.T.H. on the outside back wall...

http://www.petco.com/product/6353/Zo...k-Heaters.aspx
Zoo Med Repti-Therm UTH Under Tank Heaters


Under tank heaters designed to heat the ambient air temperature of your terrarium an average of five to 10 degrees (F) warmer than room temperature. Solid state nichrome heating elements with UL/CSA approved power cords.

http://www.reptilesupply.com/product...roducts_id=459
...Helpful Hints:

* For Terrarium use only. Not for aquariums.
* For indoor use only
* Always use the enclosed rubber feet to slightly elevate your terrarium allowing excess bottom heat to escape and avoid damaging the powercord.
* Placing terrariums with an under tank heater on household furniture may cause furniture's finish to discolor. ZooMed Labs Inc., does nto guarantee against furniture finish discoloration. ZooMed recommends placing terrrariums on stands designed for use with terrariums.
* For use on glass terrariums only. Do not use on wood, plastic, acrylic or any other type of terrarium except those made of glass. (Only exception is the Repti Therm RH-7 Mini Heater can be used on plastic terrariums).
* One adhesive side "sticks" directly to your terrarium for optimum heat transfer. Optional mounting on bottom or side of your terrarium (runner feet enclosed for bottom mounting).
* Can be used with a thermostat and/or in conjunction with an additional heat source for higher temperature species. Which would include Ball Pythons.
* Full one year warranty.

Guarantee: ZooMed guarantees the materials and workmanship of the Repti Therm U.T.H. for a period of 1 year from date of purchase. If heater should fail during this time, simply box and mail postpaid back to the address below. Please include a copy of your receipt. No other guarantees apply, whether expressed or implied...

http://www.calzoo.com/pdf/curlytail.pdf
...Use a Zoo Med REPTITHERM UNDER TANK HEATER (U.T.H.) on one end of the tank. Leave it on 24 hours a day...
...For easy heat control use a Zoo Med REPTI-TEMP RHEOSTAT in conjunctions with the U.T.H...

http://exoticpets.about.com/od/herpr...gradient_6.htm
For tropical or basking species that need higher temperatures, these function best as a secondary (perhaps 24 hour) heat source, used in conjunction with an overhead heat source for basking. They can also be used with a thermostat or rheostat.

http://www.redtailboas.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15448
Default Re: Zoo Med Repti Therm uth
...I have one, and its alright... It's what the pet store sold me when I first got my boa. If I knew then what I know now I would have gotten something else. The ZooMed uth works well, but it runs way too hot for a boa, so you need something to control its maximum temp. I use a $12 rheostat I bought at Home Depot along with a temp gun to keep the temps just right. If you don't get a rheostat you will need a very thick layer of substrate to lower the temps enough so your boa doesn't burn itself. Good luck...

...Yeah deffinatly need something to control the temps. I have a zoo med uth that gets up to 116 deg. Way to hot.

...Just a note - if you use loose substrate that they can burrow in then you need to measure temps underneath the substrate.

...You should never run any heat device without some form of control on it - BigAppleHerp.com have a perfectly serviceable t/stats for 32 bucks - worth every penny when you think that it reacts and adjusts whatever your room temp is.

...I have 4 of them and have been very happy with the performance of these units ;D
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Just from what I've read through. I've read a lot of reviews saying that they work great, and a lot saying they get too hot.

Most recommend a layer of carpet between the glass and the animal to avoid burns. Which I believe was in this forums Glass tank setup thread.
Most recommend for a tropical species to use the UTH as a secondary source of heat in a glass enclosure, and to achieve higher temps, to use a rheostat or thermostat in conjunction.
The makers also say to use it on the side as a secondary source of heat for higher temp species, to avoid burns and stress cracks when you use a lightweight substrate.|
This UTH has only ever been described as raising the temperature a full 5-10 degrees higher than the ambient room temperature. A ball python needs a tropical thermal gradient, and it appears that when this is used in conjunction with a primary overhead heat source, it will keep the cool end up to temp.
To achieve higher temperatures, use a thermostat or rheostat in conjunction with a ceramic heat emitter, or a bulb.

i feel bad for the snake he's got...

I have a ZooMed, but recently upgraded to FlexWatt. When I was getting the temps right for my babies before I ordered them, the ZooMed pad spikes up to 110, and this is with substrate and the plastic between the pad and the thermometer. They are supposed to shutdown at 100. (My dh, an EE, pointed out that it had crap for safety features when he checked it out.)

Maybe your pad will never flare up and your snake will never get hurt, but it doesn't hurt to spend a couple bucks to guard against something which has happened enough that people are concerned about it.

I just think of it as a bit of extra personality!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by littleindiangirl

As to the crack in the bottom of the tank, they claim it is a stress crack, caused by liquid on the glass directly over the heat pad. They say either to side mount the pad, or to again use repti carpet or some sort of substrate that absorbs water quickly.

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As I said before, it was a malfunction, not a stress crack due to moisture. We had some bad weather, and our electricity had flickered a bit. about 10 minutes later I heard the pop.

Just pointing out what "they" as in the manufacturer says.

Gotcha. The point is, if I had had it on an thermo, it wouldn't have happened.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ama1997

Id keep an eye on that the warm water. Might not be to big of a thing. If cleaned everyday or so. Can get algae and all kinds of bacteria from the water being heated by the UTH.

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Thanks. We change his water every day, rinsing out his water bowl. When I found the poop in his water, the dish got scrubbed and washed with bleach, then rinsed again and dried before refilling and replacing it. I have since turned off the CHE until we get a rheostat for the CHE since it's rather warm in there 95/86 usually!