Rejoining

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pszdz9tb8r.jpg

Small pad plugged in less than 10 minutes

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gameonpython

I have a question.

---

I have a question too. Why do you keep avoiding the questions that are most important to have answered in order to give you the kind of help and direction you seem to be looking for?

If you look at the instructions for ANY heat source designed for reptiles it says do not run without regulation by a thermostat. We are not telling you this for our health or to get you to waste money. This advise is being given to you for the Health of your animal and for that purpose only. If you look at the animals that most if not all of the people on the site raise they are all ball pythons as well as others. Amoung the BPs are some very expensive morphs. The people telling you this as well as myself use these devises to protect our animals. Not for any other reason. You can get a zoomed rheostate from most pet stores and that will be better than nothing at all.

One of the main reasons I'm not taking advice from this forum regarding heating, is because none of it makes logical sense. For example, I have two whites tree frogs, and am on frog forum. Well, they constantly tell me that my frogs need fecal tests and that my substrate is bad. I have had these frogs for a year now and they are happy and healthy, while another person on the forum did all the stuff I didn't, including fecal testing, and giving her frogs medications. One of her frogs has died, and the others are sick.

I shared that example because it proves that less is more. You do not need extra all the time. My snake will not die nor does he even care if I don't get a thermostat.

In the wild, ball pythons come across all sorts of different temperatures, including low and high. Having a constant ambient temp of 80 provides no way for Marshall to escape unwanted heat, hence the reason for a hot side and a cool side.

Yes the heat pad itself is about 120f. On the surface inside the cave where Marshall lays is 90-92f.

Please read this whole post if you want to comment, not just skim through it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

With at least five or six people in this thread alone who have years of experience with multiple snakes of this exact species, as well as other herps that require heat, I wonder why you are so resistant to the idea of a thermostat. Is it because they're expensive? Because buddy, I gotta tell you, if you think a thermostat is too pricey, then wait until you get the vet bill for your sick snake.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gameonpython

In the wild, ball pythons come across all sorts of different temperatures, including low and high. Having a constant ambient temp of 80 provides no way for Marshall to escape unwanted heat, hence the reason for a hot side and a cool side.

---

Not as much as you might think:

• Hottest temperature ever in Ghana: 102 F
• Average high temperatures: 80 F - 88 F
• Lowest temperature ever in Ghana: 64 F
• Average low temperatures: 74 F - 79 F
• Information source: http://www.ghanaweb.com/GhanaHomePag...hy/climate.php

There's a reason that we recommend the temperatures that we do. It's not because we made this stuff up ourselves.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gameonpython

One of the main reasons I'm not taking advice from this forum regarding heating, is because none of it makes logical sense. For example, I have two whites tree frogs, and am on frog forum. Well, they constantly tell me that my frogs need fecal tests and that my substrate is bad. I have had these frogs for a year now and they are happy and healthy, while another person on the forum did all the stuff I didn't, including fecal testing, and giving her frogs medications. One of her frogs has died, and the others are sick.

I shared that example because it proves that less is more. You do not need extra all the time. My snake will not die nor does he even care if I don't get a thermostat.

---

I'm also a member on frog forum and own a WTF as well as a pacman. Fecals are recommended if the animal is acting sick, is going to live in a communal setup, or when the owner has a very large frog collection. The person you're talking about is probably dealing with something communicable and unrelated to basic care.

Your example does NOTHING to prove that 'less is more' as you put it. WTFs are tough to kill. Owning them for a year doesn't mean anything. When you've owned those frogs for another 12 years, then maybe what you say about it would have some weight. Just because an animal isn't dead or dying doesn't mean it's being correctly kept.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gameonpython

In the wild, ball pythons come across all sorts of different temperatures, including low and high. Having a constant ambient temp of 80 provides no way for Marshall to escape unwanted heat, hence the reason for a hot side and a cool side.

Yes the heat pad itself is about 120f. On the surface inside the cave where Marshall lays is 90-92f.

Please read this whole post if you want to comment, not just skim through it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

---

In the wild, ball pythons do not live in areas with 70 degree ambient temperatures all the time. Thousands of them also die every year from starvation, exposure, and predation. We don't need to mimic the less pleasant aspects of nature in our setups.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gameonpython

Yes the heat pad itself is about 120f. On the surface inside the cave where Marshall lays is 90-92f.

---

You do not know this, since you've been measuring with the wrong kind of thermometer or the broken one.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gameonpython

In the wild, ball pythons come across all sorts of different temperatures, including low and high. Having a constant ambient temp of 80 provides no way for Marshall to escape unwanted heat, hence the reason for a hot side and a cool side.

---

Show me where in the wild they have someone running an elctric heating mat wide open at 120 degrees.
Majority of their days are spent in rodent burrows, doubt its that hot in there either.

I can get my wife to school you on Dumpys, dragons, fire belly toads, and even Mountain Chicken Frogs.
I dont type to see myself read and I dont care if I hurt your feelings. Get over it and grow up.
YOU chose to bring an animal into your house and care for it so why the hell do you feel the need to gamle with its life and safety?
You bash forums because you are getting information you dont agree with then why are you on here or there?
You seem to like drama and yes you lack of care for your animals gets under my skin.
All I can do is shake my head and hope that some time in your life you are the one in the box.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gameonpython

One of the main reasons I'm not taking advice from this forum regarding heating, is because none of it makes logical sense. For example, I have two whites tree frogs, and am on frog forum. Well, they constantly tell me that my frogs need fecal tests and that my substrate is bad. I have had these frogs for a year now and they are happy and healthy, while another person on the forum did all the stuff I didn't, including fecal testing, and giving her frogs medications. One of her frogs has died, and the others are sick.

I shared that example because it proves that less is more. You do not need extra all the time. My snake will not die nor does he even care if I don't get a thermostat.

In the wild, ball pythons come across all sorts of different temperatures, including low and high. Having a constant ambient temp of 80 provides no way for Marshall to escape unwanted heat, hence the reason for a hot side and a cool side.

Yes the heat pad itself is about 120f. On the surface inside the cave where Marshall lays is 90-92f.

Please read this whole post if you want to comment, not just skim through it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

---

Ok so heat pad is 120f. Its attached to the bottom of a glass tank. Do you not comprehend that that glass will get as hot as the pad? How do you know its 90f where he lays? Do you have a temp gun? As for other forums saying you don't need a thermostat for a UTH, go ask the people on ReptileInsider or Redtailboa.com. They will all tell you the same thing, a UTH CAN be run with no regulation but you are playing Russian roulette and sooner or later you will lose. Are you really so irresponsible to the animals in your care that you will gamble THEIR happiness, health and welfare over something as cheap as a $35 Hydrofarm thermostat? I'm gonna guess you are the same sort that if your animal got sick, you would just let it sit there and "hope" it got better. My words are harsh but I just don't understand why some people even buy animals if they aren't willing to give them what they need or safeguard them from possible harm.

And you say your snake wont die without a thermostat, will you bet his life on it? Cause that is what you are doing now. And if you think UTH never fail, you are dreaming. They fail, overheat, shortout more than you think. Anyways, good luck and if you are unfortunate enough to have the UTH fail and your snake gets burnt, you will pay about 8 times the cost of a Hydrofarm thermostat in just vet bills not counting the time you will need to invest in nursing that animal back to health assuming it doesn't die.

World's greatest troll.