Newb question on caging

I would go with the plastic ones

I am going to replace all the inside ones with plastic.

Where should I put the probe of a thermostat to make sure I get the proper temps? If I am using aspen for substrate I don't know where to put the probe. I can't just hot glue it to the tile bottom it would be covered up make it too hot I think where the BP actually is. I understand the idea behind a thermostat with a UTH because you can have the probe between the UTH and glass/PVC, but with lights it baffles me.

First things first are covering the lights and moving the electrical (this week/weekend), and next figuring out the thermostat thing. I am pretty sure I can keep temps fairly stable with the dimmers but I would like the peace of mind that a thermostat will bring. I am going to start looking for a thermostat that is like a dimmer.

What I did when I was using lights with a thermostat is I would hot glue the cord of the probe to the bottom of the tank, and just leave enough excess not glued so that the probe itself could sit just below the surface of the aspen

Here are some good thermostats

Hydrofarm, good but not great ($30)

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR..._bxgy_ol_img_b

Herpstat, extremely accurate and the best you can get, models start at $99 (this is what I use)

http://spyderrobotics.com/

So I am guessing that the hide will be over top of the probe as well? It makes sense. Does the snake ever knock it into a bad position where it would alter the temps badly? I am thinking if we are on vacation for a week or gone for a couple days.

I am also guessing that I am looking for "proportional" thermostats and. It the on/off type. I think the on/off type would be annoying.

The hydrofarm is an on/off type, and the Herpstat is a proportional thermostat, either way there will be a noticeable change in the amount of light put out, but an infrared bulb will minimize the effect (and let it be on 24/7 without stressing out the snake)

the point of hot glueing the cord was much as you can is to make sure that the probe moves as little as possible, I only had an inch or so of loose cord in my cages. the substrate will do the rest. I wouldn't put the hide directly over the probe, but next to it. ( 2 reasons: less likely the snake will be sitting on the probe, and it will make your readings more accurate)

it isn't like with a UTH where if the probe gets dislodged the bottom of the tank will spike up to 110 degrees, if you are using an appropriately powered bulb (I would say 75 watts or 100 watts) even if it is running full blast it should be fine for a few hours before you notice the issue

That is true. Thanks so much that leads it up. I just don't cook the poor thing. I also found a zilla brand one available locally for around $60 and it is rated for 600 Watts. I think the model was 500r. I also found the herp stat but no price. These may be a trickier find I'm Canada but now I know what to look for.

I would be wary of the 500r, they don't have the best reputation. I would PM Kitedemon, and ask him where he got his thermostats as he lives in Canada as well. I really need to find these things out as there are many Canadians on the forums and they always seem to have issues with this.

Here is the link to the one I Was originally looking at.

Big Al's

I think I am going to try and find the herp stat though.

I highly recommend herpstats, I use them, and absolutely love them. I know of people in Canada who have them so they can't be too hard to get, as i said PM Kitedemon and see if he can help you, he's a good guy.

Yeah, those reptitherms are pretty common in pet stores, but don't seem to work well or last long

Yeah I will PM him. I want to do this right. Thanks for the warning on the 500r.