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I have one that is a picky eater. He refused f/t. I switched him to live he took it. He eats in his tub. I will not take him out to feed him again. I supervise when he's eating to make sure he doesn't swallow bedding or get bit. Just so happens my oldest was in blue the other day (only time he won't eat) so I offered it to my picky eater and he took it. It was f/t :) Don't give up yet.
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Re: Enough is enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by gold217
She's in a 20 gallon tank. I have a thermometer on the warm side and a hygrometer in the middle. I use a CHE and a heat pad.
What are your temps? Do you have anything controlling the CHE and heat pad? Those get surprisingly hot.
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Re: Enough is enough
it was sarcasm folks....it happens.
if you only have a few snakes then its no problem feeding in the enclosure. once your snake is acclimated, feeding well, and a little bigger its confidence will be greater and you can feed out of its enclosure. i feed my snakes in the enclosure and on aspen. i have not had any issues but i have read where some people have. it is SAFEST to either feed out of the enclosure or on a smooth surface in the enclosure. i at times have taken paper plates and placed in in the enclosure for the snake to eat on. it separates the snake from the bedding.
impaction can happen but takes quite a bit. as for the bone density vs. aspen....well snakes digestive systems are designed to break down bone and fur and meat. they are not designed to break down fibrous materials such as aspen. it can happen but is a very rare occurrence. if you are worried about it then feed out of the tub. if not worried then dont.
adam jeffery
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Re: Enough is enough
Think about what they take into there system in the wild ???? I really think a little aspen is not going to effect them at all... You say it has happened to a few in the past ?? Is there proof it was even aspen ??
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Re: Enough is enough
aspen was just the analog for the example. when speaking of past examples i dont remember specifics. i do rememebr when i kept sand boas many people had issues using sand which is why it isnt used as often for them. i have also heard of crushed walnut shells causing issues in geckos. do a google search if you want more.
adam jeffery
btw.. im pro feeding in the enclosure
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One thing many new keepers don't realize that they will need A LOT of when keeping Ball Pythons is this:
PATIENCE !!
There is always the exception, but for the most part Ball Pythons are very particular about the way they like to be housed, and how safe they have to feel in order to eat.
They know instinctively that during the process of striking, constricting, eating they are extremely vulnerable. In the wild, they would be an easy target during all this. They cannot defend themselves, they cannot "run" off easily.
Usually, if they do not feel safe, they will not eat ! Many will get quite comfortable with their surroundings and routine to where they eventually have no problem eating during any time of the day or even with some commotion around. However especially with a new hatchling or any newly acquired Ball Python one should take extra care to make it feel safe.
It can be argued to death, but it is always better to feed a Ball Python INSIDE his enclosure UNTIL he/she is an established eater. If it eats in a separate bin, great. But since we have a case where this Ball Python is refusing food, there needs to be a change of direction.
As previously said, check and double check the setup. There is a ton of info and caresheets on here about this, so I do not need to elaborate. I prefer to have hides for my new babies and also to make sure the tub is covered on top and all sides but the front.
Let the snake relax and acclimate. Start over with that, from the last failed feeding attempt on. Another week at least without bugging the snake whatsoever. Try to feed it again in the evening. Wait for the snake to be in the hide, but peeking out. Drop the food in and LEAVE. A mouse hopper / rat fuzzy won't do any damage. Stay nearby and try to observe from far enough to not bother the snake. GIVE IT TIME. If this doesn't work, wait a couple of days and try again. Try a FT or prekilled rat pup, leaving it in front of the hide, or just its head inserted into the hide, leave overnight.
Have patience.
I find that patience and extra effort in the beginning makes the world of a difference, and things usually get much easier from then on.
I would never try assist or worse force feeding that early into the game. That should be reserved for the very last resort when its either this or death of starvation. Force feeding is extremely stressful on the snake, and you risk death from that alone.
Just take a deep breath or two, go over your setup, give the snake some time, and try some of these helpful tips you've been given within this thread. Your snake will come around.
:)
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Re: Enough is enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anya
That's not the point. Who goes around taking them to the vet in the wild? Who tests for parasites it the wild? If you own an animal, it's your responsibility to provide to the best of your ability, the best care possible for said animal. Risk of impaction is minimal: It's still a risk, and if your snake will tolerate being moved to eat, I applaud that. I personally don't move my snakes to eat at all, simply because I don't feel that the benefits outweigh throwing my snakes off food. But I will never chide someone for doing something that could potentially benefit their animal!
Sorry, worked up tonight, lol. I'm not meaning to start an argument or anything, just stating my opinion. :)
Thank you for that. I understand it's a minimal risk as you said but my BP has no problem eating outside her enclosure.(though I know many snakes do)
All I was trying to do was warn the OP of the risk(minimal as it is) if they use aspen substrate.
Hell I got LUCKY with our BP Snickers! She doesn't mind eating outside of her enclosure, has never hissed at us or bitten us and in spite of our months of poor husbandry and a bad shed(all that is corrected now) she forgave us and isn't mean in the slightest.
We are "LUCKY" to have such BP with an AWESOME ATTITUDE but I do understand in the end we did just happen to get "LUCKY" with Snickers.
That being said I feel I had the right to warn the OP of minimal risk of impaction which is all I did and thank you for understanding that when others failed to.
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Re: Enough is enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by zina10
It can be argued to death, but it is always better to feed a Ball Python INSIDE his enclosure UNTIL he/she is an established eater. If it eats in a separate bin, great. But since we have a case where this Ball Python is refusing food, there needs to be a change of direction.
I can agree with this fully if having a problem feeding a new snake.
I wasn't trying to discourage the OP from feeding inside the tank...
All I was doing was warning of the risk of impaction if the OP didn't use newspaper as substrate...but of course some people like to bite others heads off on here.(not talking about you though)
Some people on this site have such a nasty "my way or the highway" attitude about advice though.
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my first bp was this bad, but now i feed all of them in their enclosures and they do fine. I know how the first time i got it and it wouldnt eat stressed me out but at the same time i didnt want it to be stressed out so i removed the prey and didnt try again for 5 days, eventually she ate and that was that...now most of my picky eaters are the best ones i have...when it comes to bps its just like fishing, patience is a virtue.
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Re: Enough is enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by llovelace
Do not remove him/her from her eclosure to feed.
I ALWAYS feed in a seperate tub! always. Its personal preferance, but if ur snake is stressed, leave it alone for a few days, they will eat when they are ready
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