New Ball Python Owner

HAHAHA!

I only go to PetsMart to clean out the humane society kitty's cages as a volunteer. And, the free adoptable kitty hugs are a bonus. The last time I brought my dog to Petco, I think she crapped on the floor.

Bella,

We are not trying to give you misinformation. It sounds to me like the "specialists" you are talking for are rather misinformed themselves.

Lamps are not suggested for ball pythons because they SUCK the humidity out of the tank and that causes the snakes to have bad sheds (which is BAD). A UTH will not suck your humidity and will give yoru snake proper belly heat. I would highly suggest using the UTH instead of the two "basking lights". Ball pythons do not "bask" really. They just sit in termite mounds and rodent holes most of their lives. They don't often come out to sit on a warm rock at night. Here is what you can do until you can get a thermostat (The one I recommended for you was only $25 so I don't see how that is really all that financially difficult"). Go to the home depot and get a lutron lamp dimmer, $10. You can plug the uth directly into this and control the temp of the UTH. You might have to adjust it a few times a day if your room temp is not stable, but it will keep the UTH from overheating and burning your snake.

Now either home depot, lowes, or walmart should carry an accurite digital thermometer and hydrometer with a probe. These are around $11 and it will be all you ever need to measure the temps for your little guy. I think when you put the digital thermometers in there, you will notice that it is much hotter than you expected. Those dial thermometers are not accurate, as much as you think they may be. It is probably much hotter in there then you realize.


As for the cruising, that is a sign of stress. Ball pythons hide 90% of the time. I only see my snakes out cruising when they are looking for food the day before or on feeding day. It sounds to me like your little one needs a bit more security. Find some tighter hides. Upside down plastic bowls with a small opening cut into them work very well. Make sure the snake barely fits inside. They really like small spaces.


This is some of the exact info given to me when I first got my ball python and it worked wonders for me. I now have two snakes (soon a third!) and I keep them in plastic tubs with belly heat in a rack system. This is how most snake breeders keep their snakes and raise them into healthy and calm animals. :)

Bella, I can not force you to listen to us, as it is probably more difficult because we are after all, people on the internet.
However, next time your with those snake experts, ask them how many snakes they've kept, what they kept them in, and how many times they have successfully bred snakes and raised the babies to breed again.

Many people on here are breeders, I will soon consider myself one as well (not for bps yet, but for corn snakes). The experience of breeding is incredible, and a huge leap of knowledge and learning. In order to breed, all of our animals have to be stress-free and well fed. We've dealt with the picky baby feeders and we know what husbandry ticks are bad and can be so small but can cause such a prolonged feeding issue.
Some people on her have THOUSANDS of snakes. I may only have 14, but they are all set-up in that picture I sent you (except slightly more simple because they are in tubs). They all pound racks, and only occasionally are seen out of their hides at night. That is a happy ball python. ;)

I don't know why they keep telling you not to use UTHs, especially if they are on a thermostat (which helps prevent shortages and such). All 14 of my snakes are above flexwatt heat tape (it's a cheap form of an UTH, however it gets very very warm and needs a very nice thermostat). Heat lamps have zero benefits for ball pythons. They have lots of benefits for bearded dragons, tortoises, and iguanas, but not for ball pythons.

Next time your at the store, ask why they prefer UTHs. If they say for the UVA and UVB rays, then you can know they are not specialists. (Balls have no benefits from UV lamps).

Okay, so if I were to set up the UTH that I currently have (it's probably 5x8 inches or less) I doubt it is large enough to maintain proper temps in my enclosure (20 long) so I presume it would be acceptable to use my lamps to bring the heat up to speed?

Also, because I'm on such a limited budget (30 grand in student loans, 10 grand due in two months for my internship and I'm not permitted to work during this internship plus my mortgage and bills) I just don't have the money to totally convert his enclosure at this time. That said, what would you recommend in terms of a reliable, long term thermostat that can ensure the temps will stay in range?

Keep in mind, I'm not a multi-reptile owner. I will probably never own more than one reptile at a time and want to give him the best I can, while not going into foreclosure ya know?

I believe this is the UTH that I currently have.

http://www.petmountain.com/show_prod...tm_term=500353

Okay, I'm just perusing some pet supply stores online...what are your thoughts on these items?

http://www.petmountain.com/product/r...ermometer.html

http://www.bigappleherp.com/BAH-1000...=2&category=15

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blackcrystal22

Next time your at the store, ask why they prefer UTHs. If they say for the UVA and UVB rays, then you can know they are not specialists. (Balls have no benefits from UV lamps).

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I asked them yesterday and they said because for most snake owners, overhead lights or heat emitters are safer than unpredictable heating pads. In reality, they don't think your run of the mill, 1 snake family is going to spend the extra money on a thermostat and timers and digital thermometers which would prevent a short in an UTH in addition to the cost of the animal itself, and the enclosure supplies (most people with one snake won't want to keep it in a tub from my experience...they want to showcase it).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bella

Okay, I'm just perusing some pet supply stores online...what are your thoughts on these items?

http://www.petmountain.com/product/r...ermometer.html

http://www.bigappleherp.com/BAH-1000...=2&category=15

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I have never used either one of those. I highly suggest using one of these: http://reptilebasics.com/Johnson-Con...d-p-16178.html . I have a few of them, and they work great. They are one of the cheapest reliable digital thermostats that you can buy. If you insulate your tank, you should be fine just using an under tank heater (UTH.) You will also need to cover most of the top of the tank with something; such as, a piece of plexiglass or tin foil. Your UTH should cover 1/3 of the underside of your tank. Put it on either the far left or the far right. You should place it under the side with the hide.

Hope this helps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bella

(most people with one snake won't want to keep it in a tub from my experience...they want to showcase it).

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Ball pythons are very insecure, and are not good display animals. They hide during most of the daylight hours.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wh00h0069

Ball pythons are very insecure, and are not good display animals. They hide during most of the daylight hours.

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Yes, I know...but the enclosure is more what I meant. I don't know if that makes sense, but people with one snake that I know, want the enclosure to be a part of the household even if the snake is reclusive. My enclosure is on display, but to respect his temperament, his enclosure is tucked in a low traffic corner, three sides are blacked out, he has multiple hides, and much of his tank is covered in greenery he can hide in as well.

I just want to step in for a moment. After quickly reading through this thread, it brought some things to mind that I'd like to remind people...

Most of the issues being pushed for in this thread are OPTIONS and not necessities. There's nothing wrong with overhead heat for a ball python...if the keeper can get the right temps and humidity, the snake really doesn't care of the heat is overhead or underneath. Or even from the side, such as a radiant heat panel or flexwatt down the back of a rack.

There's also nothing wrong with UTH heat. It's all just a matter of preference and what works best for the keeper. But when folks INSIST that their way is the only proper way to do it we create confusion and misunderstanding.

Water bowls....they only NEED a small bowl to drink from. However, there is nothing wrong with providing a larger bowl. Some people like to give their snake the option to soak. Some people need the extra boost of humidity a large bowl gives. Some people don't like to mess with the trouble of large heavy bowls. Again, it is a matter of OPINION and keeper preference. There's no sense in insisting that someone change their way of doing things just because you prefer it differently.

My only real concern about the OP's set up is the temperature extremes. A range of 70 to 105 is far outside of any parameters I've ever seen or heard of for keeping ball pythons healthy. A range of 80 to 90 or even up to 95 would be far more ideal and reduce the chances of your snake getting sick or going off its food.

Seriously folks....let's try to remember that there is no exact way to keep these beauties. Tubs or tanks....UTH or lamps.....feeding outside or inside the cage....big bowls or little bowls.....

Share your opinion....state WHY you prefer what you do....but don't make it sound like your way is the only right way. :please: