Please Help! My ZooMed Terrarium is too cold:(

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Originally Posted by HanabiraAsashi

All thermostats use a probe, you put the probe between the heating pad and the glass. If you have one of the tack on zoomed pads, if you try to take it off now, you'll probably have to just throw it away. Also, your substrate on the hot end is far too thick, I find that having a very slight layer (half inch thick tops) of substrate works because you dont have to worry about a major difference between the temp of the glass and the temp of the top of the substrate.

Other than that, your issue is that you dont seem to have a lamp to heat up your ambient, also, ive seen no mention of your humidity or a picture of a meter for it, but i can see that your temps are low, your tank is glass and you have a completely open lid. I can probably guess that your humidity is in the 40% range, which is below the comfort zone. This combination is the reason your snake makes noises, its on the brim of getting a respiratory infection, especially since now its only source of heat has been turned off since it was its immediate source of danger.

If you have a space heater, i would point it at the tank (only close enough to get the inside to 80. Then, take a damp towel and cover up the screen lid. If you dont have a space heater, check the temps of one of your closets, if its 80 in the closet (probably is if the doors are closed) put the tank in there until you get a heat lamp, a dimmer and a thermostat.

If im mistaken and you -DO- have a lamp, if you cover up 80% of that lid with a damp towel and have the lamp taking up the remaining 20%, you should see a rise in your temp and humidity.

Also, no heat caves.

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I am putting on a 40W infrared heat bulb now.
https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7542/2...1e2005b1_b.jpg

For the humidity, I am spraying the tank with water
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7255/2...013029c7_b.jpg

I am gonna google how to maintain humidity now. 'Cause the store where I bought the snake from just told me to spray it with water and it will be fine :(

Get a Herpstat 1 if you can afford it. If you can't afford that then look at the inkbird itc-308 which is an on/off style but can be set to only drop 1 degree before it starts heating again. Herpstat 1 is proportional and will stay one consistent temp and really reliable and safe but the ink bird would work. Another good proportional thermostat is the ve-200 from reptile basics. The jump start would work also but to see how many degrees it drops before it starts heating again, the less the better. If you buy any of these thermostats you will want to put the thermostat probe sandwiched between the uth and bottom of glass and set thermostat until you get a temp on top of glass of no higher than 95.

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Pet stores dont really have anyone that specializes in snakes. Also, the kit makes it seem like it has everything you need to get a snake. It doesnt have anything for humidity or regulation for the included heat pad (nor does it tell you that you need it).

Take 2 towels, spray them lightly with that water bottle and put them to the left and to the right of the lamp (make sure they dont touch the lamp just in case). Both your temps and humidity should go up, just make sure you monitor it because your lamp needs regulation too (a dimmer), but a 40w red bulb isnt nearly as dangerous as a unregulated heat pad. If the heat gets too high in the tank, slowly slide back the towels to open more screen space to let the extra heat leave.

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Originally Posted by HanabiraAsashi

Pet stores dont really have anyone that specializes in snakes. Also, the kit makes it seem like it has everything you need to get a snake. It doesnt have anything for humidity or regulation for the included heat pad (nor does it tell you that you need it).

Take 2 towels, spray them lightly with that water bottle and put them to the left and to the right of the lamp (make sure they dont touch the lamp just in case). Both your temps and humidity should go up, just make sure you monitor it because your lamp needs regulation too (a dimmer), but a 40w red bulb isnt nearly as dangerous as a unregulated heat pad. If the heat gets too high in the tank, slowly slide back the towels to open more screen space to let the extra heat leave.

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Done
https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7302/2...603f4acb_b.jpg

Are there reptile humidifiers that automatically regulate the humidity? Instead of me having to keep spraying the towels and put them back on whenever they are dry.

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Originally Posted by chrid16371

Get a Herpstat 1 if you can afford it. If you can't afford that then look at the inkbird itc-308 which is an on/off style but can be set to only drop 1 degree before it starts heating again. Herpstat 1 is proportional and will stay one consistent temp and really reliable and safe but the ink bird would work. Another good proportional thermostat is the ve-200 from reptile basics. The jump start would work also but to see how many degrees it drops before it starts heating again, the less the better. If you buy any of these thermostats you will want to put the thermostat probe sandwiched between the uth and bottom of glass and set thermostat until you get a temp on top of glass of no higher than 95.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

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The Herpstat 1 + tax and shipping would be around CAD200 which is too expensive for me. So I am just getting the Jump Start MTPRTC, which operates within 2 degrees either way. I think it's good enough for me for now lol

Good, report back in an hour with your new ambient temps.

Short answer.. not really.

Long answer... not really, but there are ways you can rig it. You can create a humidifier from some videos on youtube and adjust the towels until you hit an equilibrium where the humidity stays consistent.

Another answer (albiet very expensive) is using a high end herpstat that has humidity probing capaibilities that will turn on a fogger or humidifier for you once your humidity gets below a certain point.

Honestly with your light in the center directly over your water and the rest of the screen covered up, you should at -least- be at 50, which is safe. Problem will be once it goes into shed and you need it more towards 65-70. You'll probably sphagnum moss to help you get that high.

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Originally Posted by HanabiraAsashi

Another answer (albiet very expensive) is using a high end herpstat that has humidity probing capaibilities that will turn on a fogger or humidifier for you once your humidity gets below a certain point.

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Sounds expensive too LOL

Yes there are reptile humidifiers . There called foggers or misters although alot of people do not recommend using them because they could "possibly" give your bp and ri. You can rig a fogger so it keeps misting the towels over the viv keeping get them wet and keeping your humidity up.
There are loads of different ways of keeping humidity up like covering the top, spraying regularly, some people use waterfeatures in there vivs to add to humidity
I've always used sphagnum Moss. IMO it's the best thing for humidity. I also have 2 water bowls one on hot side and one on cold side.

@MercedesBenz I just want to say, good on you for getting on top of things with all the new info and getting the right equipment when it's suggested! Not everyone who comes around for help/advice is willing to do that, for whatever weird reason...

You don't really need to regulate humidity to an exact compared to heat pads, at least for ball pythons, as long as it is kept around or above 60%, assuming there is good air flow. Another option to up the humidity is to put a large flat plate or container with large surface area inside the tank, soak a towel and lay it inside, preferably on top of the heated side. It will last longer than putting the towels on top of the tank.... It just doesn't look very nice LOL. Either way would work.

If your humidity is low, during shed times/when the snake is in blue, you can stick damp sphagnum moss inside of the hides, pushed to the sides. That will help during shedding.

This is the cheaper option

[video removed]

Lol excuse his language (he's hilarious to listen to). Basically the gist of it, he uses a humidifer and attaches a hose to the nozzle and pipes the fog into the tank. He has a splitter because he has 3 tanks. If you do this, you can turn it down to a low power and it should easily keep your tank at a good humidity for a couple of days. Take some time to experiment with the humidity dial and the screen coverage.