Having problems... New BP owner

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WingedWolfPsion

Omigosh, everyone is overthinking this way too much.

If the temperatures are off by 5 degrees in the upward direction, that isn't the problem, really. It's a problem, but not THE problem.

In truth, Tobias is a 2 year old male snake, and it's the middle of winter.

He's also described as being very active.

He probably won't eat until spring. ;)

Work out all of the husbandry kinks, sure, but as for food--offer him a smaller than usual prey item every 10 days, and don't stress when he doesn't take it.

He's more interested in girls right now than food. Assuming this is a healthy snake, and the enclosure is as described, then chances are pretty high that this is nothing more than a male snake that is off food for the breeding season. I have 3 mature males in my collection that are eating, right, now, the rest have been refusing since late November.

---

Thank you!!! Of all the people who commented, you actually made some logic of all this BEYOND dollars and more equipment... I'm planning on getting a thermostat, I'll find a local solution. Thank you for your input.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kitedemon

Ok lets back track a second... you said you tank is 85-90 degrees, correct? is that all over the tank? Or just a hot spot?

You need to have a gradient 78-81º on the cool side and a ambient temp of around 78-85ºF.

The biggest problem with the stick on type thermometers is two fold, the measure the temp of the glass where they are stuck. This is the largest issue as this temp is not one that has massive importance. The other is they can become grossly inaccurate as the paper card often swells and jams the needle.

You really need to measure the temps inside the hides in addition to the ambient air temp you have currently with the dial. If your ambient air temps are actually 85-90 it is likely the whole set up is too hot.

There are a number of UTH on the market that will not get overly hot. 110ºF is just over body temp for a small mouse or rat. The issue is snakes cannot digest at 110º. I like the lower wattage units like you have a failed t-stat is not usually a massive issue. The problem with out a t-stat is the temp will vary with the room temp a t-stat will stabilize this and help prevent great amounts of variation.

I Am in NS and there is no problems ordering herpstat from Dion (spyder robotics direct sales) I paid 27¢ shipping and got away with out being charged tax. The product is covered under free trade and shipped USPS so there is no issues with brokerage and tax (PST and or GST,HST) might be charged. Greg West (http://www.cornelsworld.com/) he is in Alberta so that might be better...

I think you will discover finding the accurite difficult that model is discontinued and walmarts in my area never had them to begin with. IMO no great loss I hate them. All the cheap digital thermometers are about the same so buy a hand full of cheap ones and only use the ones reading the same.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Digital-L...ht_3059wt_1114
sometimes you can order a bunch. I bought 25 for 30$ with shipping. I found 6 to be poor and gave them away. If you damage a probe you can easily replace it.

---

The hot spot is his right side of the tank, which is 85-90 degrees. No higher than 92. (closest to the heating element.) his cold side is at a steady 80 degrees, hides on both sides and his UTH is under his right hide.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snickelfritz

BEYOND dollars and more equipment...

---

It's not about $$ and more equipment, Young Jedi...it's about $$ and the RIGHT equipment.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snickelfritz

The hot spot is his right side of the tank, which is 85-90 degrees. No higher than 92. (closest to the heating element.)

---

Air temp or surface temp?
The surface the area that your snake can touch shouldnt be over 95 degrees. Yes even under the bedding.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WingedWolfPsion

Omigosh, everyone is overthinking this way too much.

If the temperatures are off by 5 degrees in the upward direction, that isn't the problem, really. It's a problem, but not THE problem.

In truth, Tobias is a 2 year old male snake, and it's the middle of winter.

He's also described as being very active.

He probably won't eat until spring. ;)

Work out all of the husbandry kinks, sure, but as for food--offer him a smaller than usual prey item every 10 days, and don't stress when he doesn't take it.

He's more interested in girls right now than food. Assuming this is a healthy snake, and the enclosure is as described, then chances are pretty high that this is nothing more than a male snake that is off food for the breeding season. I have 3 mature males in my collection that are eating, right, now, the rest have been refusing since late November.

---

Having a UTH without a thermostat is dangerous and certainly isn't helping the situation. If the OP gets the husbandry correct and the snake still isn't eating then yes it's just that time of year. but even if this isn't the cause of the feeding strike it still needs to be delt with.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Slim

It's not about $$ and more equipment, Young Jedi...it's about $$ and the RIGHT equipment.

---

in most cases, the best choices in equipment cost a great amount of money... which is something I just dont have.... and it frustrates me when i've been told that I am taking fine care of him from one person ( my breeder) and he's been breeding BP's for 20 years+, and then being told I'm not doing a good enough job because I don't have the "RIGHT" equipment

The RIGHT equipment doesn't have to be expensive. Like the hydrofarm thermostat, its only $30.00 and will be FINE. I have several of them and would maybe even give you one if you were intrested in it and pay shipping. Many people have little differences in the way they care for their snakes but 99% of people on this website will agree you need a thermostat. Its just not worth the risk to possibly burn your snake or worse. Thats they only thing that people would say that is wrong with your setup....other than that and droping your temps at night, you're doing fine.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snickelfritz

Thank you!!! Of all the people who commented, you actually made some logic of all this BEYOND dollars and more equipment... I'm planning on getting a thermostat, I'll find a local solution. Thank you for your input.

---

You came on THIS website for advice, you were given advice, you bought the wrong equipment, do research before you buy anything. No need to be rude to others who have told you, you need the RIGHT equipment, for an EXOTIC animal.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snickelfritz

it frustrates me when i've been told that I am taking fine care of him from one person ( my breeder) and he's been breeding BP's for 20 years+, and then being told I'm not doing a good enough job because I don't have the "RIGHT" equipment

---

Snickel, I went back and read though this entire thread and at no point did I see anyone say you were doing a bad job. But, BP Husbandry runs the gambit from horrid to optimum. When you come to a site frequented by so many BP owners with lifetimes of experience, you will tend to get advise that leans toward the optimum side of the scale. Optimum is something to strive for...just because you can't achieve it instantly, doesn't make you a bad owner.

Moving on, your temps are ok (assuming they are correct) it would be good to get them stabilized more so you aren't seeing so much variation, that is a smaller issue.

A active snake can be a lot of things curious ranging to stressed. How old is the animal I have assumed it is young is it?

Are you feeding (or attempting to feed) the exact same as what the breeder was? (same size same species rats or mice usually, same condition thawed from frozen or live or live fresh killed?)

You may try to add over head cover fake plants something to clutter it up some never forget that balls like to see out but not be seen lots of places to peek out from can help

The next thing to try is not to offer for 7 days no handling nothing just spot clean with as little disruption as possible. Dim the lights before offering and leave the prey item near the enclosure (by the vents) for 20-40 min before offering to get a strong smell in the air make sure the prey is warm to the touch rats have a normal body temp of about 100ºF I actually measure mine and heat (air dryer) to about this temp. Then try to feed. hopefully this works.
best of luck!