(Semi) newbie here with many, MANY questions!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snagrio

Nah, knew to avoid those like the plague lol. Mine's a Zoo Med digital thermometer/humidity gauge with probes.

---

Nice one..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Took him out for his first handling session today and it went swell, posted some pics of it in the pictures thread. I've forgotten just how smooth snakes feel, especially when they move across your skin. His banana speckles are driving me nuts as I predicted though, keep double and triple checking them over to make 110% sure they aren't mites :P (though I know to check under his mouth and the vent area, so he's definitely clean).

Found his first poop and it looked normal so all is well there (took me a while to actually find it but I could smell it well before then lol, at least he had the courtesy to poop on the fake leaves so it was an easy clean). Also handled him for a little while since I already had to prod around in his enclosure. Very sweet little guy, hasn't so much as glared at me once and is getting used to being on my hand already.

However now that he's gotten comfortable and is being more active in his enclosure at night, I've noticed a problem. He's been moving the probes around since he likes to climb up on their suction cups about as much as he enjoys the sticks I set up for him, and I can see that becoming a problem where say, the probe that's tied to the CHE's thermostat gets moved so the temperature gets wonky. Any ideas on how to keep them from being shoved out of place?

You can hot glue the probe so it doesn't move.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Welp, another lesson learned. The humidity levels dipped into the 30's so I broke out the moss (was originally going to wait until the setup needed to be cleaned but the sudden onset of chilly, dry weather forced my hand), and just like with the coconut fiber I needed only half of what I prepared and so I set the rest out the dry so I can store it for later. Also put in a humidity box with more moss to see if he'll use it.

He doesn't seem to like the moss all that much though. I mixed it into the substrate and he's kinda haphazardly staying halfway inside his hide of choice unlike how he's normally fully inside during the day. I'll leave things be for now but if it stresses him out too much I'll clear some of it out.

That said I'm getting worried about what I'm going to do when he goes into shed. Despite all my efforts the humidity's still reading out at 40-50% 24 hours after adding the moss. Lower than the recommended 60% (but still acceptable) and a far cry from the 80% required for a good shed. I guess I either have to hope he figures out the humidity box when the time comes or I have to spray the enclosure like crazy (the CHE saps moisture very quickly) when he goes blue.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mr. Misha

You can hot glue the probe so it doesn't move.


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

---

Excellent tip !!!

The hot glue guns are great for fixing branches , wires fake foliage in the viv .
The glue is kinda semi permanent ;)

It stays ‘put’ as long as you like but it’s easy enough to pull it or cut it away GENTLY..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I can now most assuredly confirm that Zebes does NOT like moss in his hide, at all. Checked on him this afternoon and he was in his other hide on the cool side (which he just about never uses) and it was very obvious the poor guy was stressed. Halfway out the hide, clearly awake and in a frightened, glaring S-pose. I promptly moved all the moss out from under his other hide and my back was barely turned after re-securing the lid that I saw he had scurried back across the enclosure and curled up completely inside it like he normally does.

Guess I found one of his first quirks.

Poor guy! Glad you are so attentive to him - I'm sure he's more comfortable now. For a couple of my snakes that don't like moss mixed in with their substrate, I just put a bowl of damp moss into the enclosure to help maintain humidity, and/or add a second water bowl and/or add a potted plant or two (something sturdy like Pothos). Any one of, or combination of, those things has helped bump and maintain humidity for me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Caitlin

Poor guy! Glad you are so attentive to him - I'm sure he's more comfortable now. For a couple of my snakes that don't like moss mixed in with their substrate, I just put a bowl of damp moss into the enclosure to help maintain humidity, and/or add a second water bowl and/or add a potted plant or two (something sturdy like Pothos). Any one of, or combination of, those things has helped bump and maintain humidity for me.

---

On the bright side, I think the little episode showed him the other hide even exists in the first place, as I've never seen him use it before then. Now he's started to alternate between the two.

The moss itself doesn't seem to bother him from what I can tell, he just really didn't like the stuff being in his hide.

Little update:

Moved the enclosure about a couple feet sideways from the TV and placed a table with shelves between them. He didn't seemed bothered from it in the first place but I did it anyway just to be on the safe side. Also hot glued the probe wires in key locations and they've finally stopped being jostled around so that's nice.

Meanwhile however, I'm continually struggling with humidity (40% on average), especially lately with the onset of autumn, but I leave a humidity box in his enclosure at all times and do mistings to do what I can. Still lowkey dreading his first shed though. :worry:

Also I've noticed he has a tiny vertical scratch line on his belly scales. Not really sure where he got it since I made absolutely certain there was nothing dangerous in his home, but the scratch is so small (you have to put it right in front of your face to notice it whatsoever) and he looks perfectly fine otherwise so I don't think it's anything serious. Would've gotten a pic but I forgot to do it before I fed him today and I obviously don't want to disturb him.

Speaking of, Zebes has been doing fantastically on that front. My boy is a tenacious eater and seems to know when feeding day is now. In this instance I saw him poke his head out of his hide and flick his tongue excitedly before I even got the tank screen off. I've also done tap training of sorts and give a couple gentle taps on his hide with my finger whenever I bring him out to handle so he knows my intentions. Has never even tried to bite me and has gotten more and more relaxed in my hands, he's such a sweetie. :snake:

Think I've found a decent solution for the humidity problem. Misting was doing next to nothing and the humidity would dive back into the 30's right afterwards so I tried gently pouring a cup's worth of warm water around certain spots of the tank so it'd soak into the coconut fiber (while still leaving plenty of dry places so he doesn't risk getting scale rot, and I didn't use too much that it'd pool at the bottom or anything).

The humidity as a result has bumped back up into the 50's and has remained there even after several hours. So I think as long as I periodically water the substrate enough to maintain a "reservoir" of moisture things should be good, and all I'd have to do for shed time is be more liberal with how much water I use for the coco fiber to absorb along with misting.

Don't think I'll ever have feeding issues with Zebes. Every meal he's getting more and more brazen to the point where today he craned halfway up the tank wall in anticipation before I could even lower the mouse down.

Even with that though he's been the perfect model of ball python temperament otherwise. Took him out earlier on the same day and he showed no signs of feeding aggression, it's only when he knows it's dinner time. Though I still tap his log hide every time I take him out for routine's sake.

So, I have some concerns. First of which, I fear he may have scale rot according to these images I took. The little brown line between the two black dots has been there for a while but the one on the yellow spot is more recent I think. His belly scales (where scale rot tends to manifest most often) are completely normal though. And no I'm certain they aren't just more of his maturing banana spots either as they're brown and have a "rusty" look to them.

Furthermore it's been over two months since his last shed (which was before he even left the breeder). Thought he would've at least entered the cycle by now. The most I've seen is that he's utilized his humidity box a few times.

And finally, he's 4 months old and according to a weighing I did a couple days ago he's 148 grams. Seems a bit small for his age but he looks fine otherwise, plump but not fat.

In general despite my concerns he's been doing quite well. Eats with great enthusiasm and spends most of the time lounging in his hide as a happy BP should and I've kept all parameters stable.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...17809b8338.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...46ef2a50b0.jpg

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

First, those look like speckles/freckles, etc. to me. Not a vet or expert on scale rot, but I've seen pictures, and it looks nasty and generally covers an area, not distinct spots, from what I've seen.

I'll let others chime in here on the above, but some morphs tend to get these speckles/freckles more than others. They look almost exactly like the speckling my BI's get, especially my VPI T+ Sunglow.

Secondly, he will shed when he's ready.

Finally, if he's healthy and happy, do not worry about his weight versus other BP's. They all grow at their own pace.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dakski

First, those look like speckles/freckles, etc. to me. Not a vet or expert on scale rot, but I've seen pictures, and it looks nasty and generally covers an area, not distinct spots, from what I've seen.

I'll let others chime in here on the above, but some morphs tend to get these speckles/freckles more than others. They look almost exactly like the speckling my BI's get, especially my VPI T+ Sunglow.

Secondly, he will shed when he's ready.

Finally, if he's healthy and happy, do not worry about his weight versus other BP's. They all grow at their own pace.

---

Yep. Banana Ball Pythons are named as such not only because they are more yellow, but also because they develop spots as they age... like a banana...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm well aware of the spots tied to the banana morph, I'm just suspicious of the particular ones pictured since they look different.

Though if he's otherwise acting normal and eating heartily and my husbandry is up to snuff I don't have anything to worry about I suppose.

Good picture of freckles on a Banana BP.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...gi0o1_1280.jpg

Scale Rot

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...rot-snakes.jpg

Scale rot is usually on the belly, causes raised and blistered scales, and is generally caused by poor husbandry and can be made worse by vitamin deficiency.

I do not think your BP has scale rot.

He's finally entered a shed cycle, deep blue and all (suspected so as he suddenly hunkered down in his humidity box for roughly 3 days straight). I've been doing everything I can to keep humidity up and have been leaving him alone as much as possible.

Only took him out for maintenance (he pooped in the humidity box) and one other brief handling session since it was a rare visit from extended family members who had been wanting to meet him ever since he arrived but haven't been able to since, you know, 2020.

Fingers crossed his first shed with me goes well.

Ah, first snake stress. Fears of scale rot, humidity, temps, why isn't he shedding worry, worry, worry. I remember that. In fact I still go through it whenever I get a new addition! Snake keeping is a practice. Do your research, read, ask questions, but at the end of the day your own experience will be the best teacher. It sounds like your off to a strong start.

Looking over your thread, you're set up for a long hard fight with humidity. The aquarium/CHE combo will hamper you at every turn. My balls have shed issues if humidity is less than 65% or so. I have a BEL who will have a bad shed in anything less than 75%. As a solution, when I see their eyes cloud over I create a micro-climate monsoon season, it practically rains in the terrarium until I get a shed skin. You obviously can't achieve this with a glass aquarium but there are steps you can take. Somebody above suggested a humidity box, which can do wonders. Get a small opaque Tupperware container, big enough for the snake to have a tight fit, cut a smallish hole, just big enough to allow tight access, layer damp sphagnum moss inside and place it on the warm side. If you don't like sphagnum moss, you could use some damp coconut substrate. It might be a little late now as the BP is already in blue and most snakes don't like new things, but maybe worth a try.

Since the BP is already going into blue, be prepared for him to clear up rather quickly. They only look blue for a day or two, then return to normal and look better than ever! Lots of first time keepers make the mistake of thinking they missed the shed. It can take up to a week for the entire process to play out. Keep the terrarium humidity as high as you can until there's a shed in hand. Since you are having so much difficulty with humidity, keep and eye and consider that the shed may not go perfectly. It's not a crisis if it doesn't, and any stuck shed can be addressed. When my BEL shed for the first time all she got off was her head, the rest was fully retained. I was horrified, but after 20 minutes in a lukewarm bath (water was 80 F) I was able to assist the shed and it came off. She then pooped on my hands by way of thanks.

Try not to stress too much and enjoy that gorgeous animal. Bananas are a great morph and tend to age very well. Keep posting your progress, and enjoy your snake!

He does have a humidity box exactly as you described (sizable lidded tupperware with a hole cut out and damp sphagnum moss within) and he's been using it quite liberally.

As for keeping the humidity up I've resorted to literally just sprinkling entire cups of warm water throughout the enclosure whenever the readings dip into the 60's. The substrate is a coconut fiber and sphagnum moss mix so I'm no worried about mold and rot but I plan to completely clean everything out after his shed is done anyway.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snagrio

He does have a humidity box exactly as you described (sizable lidded tupperware with a hole cut out and damp sphagnum moss within) and he's been using it quite liberally.

As for keeping the humidity up I've resorted to literally just sprinkling entire cups of warm water throughout the enclosure whenever the readings dip into the 60's. The substrate is a coconut fiber and sphagnum moss mix so I'm no worried about mold and rot but I plan to completely clean everything out after his shed is done anyway.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

---

Sounds great! Please post an update after the shed and keep up the great work.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JRLongton

Sounds great! Please post an update after the shed and keep up the great work.

---

Zebes has done a perfect shed, and looks stunning. :D

My pretty banana boy.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...062cb7ccf5.jpg
What's more, the weird line of scales I was worried about are gone (guessing they were just scratched up from something), so needless to say I'm quite pleased. First thing tomorrow I'll clean out his home so it's not a swamp anymore and get a mouse ready afterwards as, knowing him, I'm sure he's ravenous. :snake:

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snagrio

He does have a humidity box exactly as you described (sizable lidded tupperware with a hole cut out and damp sphagnum moss within) and he's been using it quite liberally.

As for keeping the humidity up I've resorted to literally just sprinkling entire cups of warm water throughout the enclosure whenever the readings dip into the 60's. The substrate is a coconut fiber and sphagnum moss mix so I'm no worried about mold and rot but I plan to completely clean everything out after his shed is done anyway.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

---

Have you tried spraying well a few times daily when in shed ??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Zincubus

Have you tried spraying well a few times daily when in shed ??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

---

Spraying isn't enough even normally (even with aluminum panels covering the screen top the CHE saps moisture super quickly) so there was no way that was going to work for the shed cycle unless I literally sat there to reapply every 5 minutes.

What I do instead is every other day or so I apply a cup's worth of water and wet certain sections of the substrate so there's a "reservoir" of moisture to draw from, taking care to leave ample dry spaces (like his hides) so he doesn't get scale rot, and a humid hide with damp moss is available at all times in case he feels the need for a little extra (and a water bowl of course). But for the shed cycle I all but turned the enclosure into a bog in order to keep the place humid enough. A whole cup of water 2-3 times a day.

Obviously tomorrow I'm going to clean the whole thing out (both because everything's been soaked and it's needed to begin with) but his perfect shed shows it clearly worked so, there's that.

Congrats on the nice clean shed! I always feel like its a personal achievement when the process goes off without a hitch. Given your circumstances drenching the substrate is probably your best bet. Are you thinking about your next snake yet? lol.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JRLongton

Congrats on the nice clean shed! I always feel like its a personal achievement when the process goes off without a hitch. Given your circumstances drenching the substrate is probably your best bet. Are you thinking about your next snake yet? lol.

---

Probably TOO much thought lol. But I'm not going to for some time for several reasons (finances, making sure I can care for the one I already have, not overload myself, ect.).

But what I've looked are species that would make a good "garbage disposal companion" whenever Zebes inevitably has a series of refusals as BPs tend to do. A corn snake would be ideal but it'd have to an adult unless I got one far sooner than I plan to so it'd grow up with him to a degree.

Have also looked at others like rat snakes, gophers, beauties, kings and smaller but sizable boas like Dumeril's (BCIs and the like are just a tad too big for my experience level). I only ever plan to have around 3 snakes at the most so the choice would be important.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snagrio

Probably TOO much thought lol. But I'm not going to for some time for several reasons (finances, making sure I can care for the one I already have, not overload myself, ect.).

But what I've looked are species that would make a good "garbage disposal companion" whenever Zebes inevitably has a series of refusals as BPs tend to do. A corn snake would be ideal but it'd have to an adult unless I got one far sooner than I plan to so it'd grow up with him to a degree.

Have also looked at others like rat snakes, gophers, beauties, kings and smaller but sizable boas like Dumeril's (BCIs and the like are just a tad too big for my experience level). I only ever plan to have around 3 snakes at the most so the choice would be important.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

---

Good that you are learning/acknowledging your limits and setting a goal of 3 snakes. Also good that you are considering some cool species, but pacing yourself.

If you want a garbage disposal for a BP that might miss a meal here and there, I would not go with a corn snake. Corn snakes really should only eat mice (my two corns - female who's about 360G and a male I admit I fed too frequently for a while and is about 595G) and adult mice at the most, not even retired breeders/XL mice (too fatty). Both of my corns eat an adult mouse (F/T) every 2 weeks and maintain weight (Figment, male), and are growing slowly still (Solana, the female). Don't get me wrong, Corns are awesome snakes and great pets. I just don't think it's a good idea to throw them a small rat that your BP won't take.

Dumerils are cool boas, but don't get too much smaller than certainly a male BI likely would. I am not telling you to go against your instinct. If you think a BI is too much boa, that's fine, but a lot has to do with how often and what they are fed. I thought that too and 27 years into reptile keeping, I got my first boa. I now have 3 and I adore them. One is a dwarf BC and the other two are BI's (one male and one female).

They also grow (if fed properly) really slowly. My female BI, Behira, is 4 1/2 years old and about 5 1/2 feet and 5 pounds or so. She has great body definition and is still growing well on medium rats every 2-3 weeks. However, she's definitely giving me time to adjust to her growth and by the time she's 7+ feet, I will be very used to her and her size. Males tend to be thinner bodied if not shorter as well. If a well fed, but not obese female is about 14-20 pounds +/-, a male might be 7-12 pounds +/-.

That brings me to my second point; there are plenty of dwarf boa species that can be really cool pets AND be your BP's garbage disposal that will not get bigger, or even as big, as Behira, my female BI who is about 1/2 to 1/3 size now.

Anyway, I just wanted to throw those ideas out there. 1. Corns are great, but shouldn't eat more than adult mice. 2. BI's and Dwarf BI's and BC's can be awesome pets and take time to get to size, so you can grow with them.

Finally, on the boa issue, if you think they are too big, again, stay away. It's up to you. I just know my mind changed when I got my first and handled some big female BI's and a male Suriname who was full grown. If treated right, 97% of boas are docile as can be when out. They do have a HUGE food response though, so be aware.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dakski

Good that you are learning/acknowledging your limits and setting a goal of 3 snakes. Also good that you are considering some cool species, but pacing yourself.

If you want a garbage disposal for a BP that might miss a meal here and there, I would not go with a corn snake. Corn snakes really should only eat mice (my two corns - female who's about 360G and a male I admit I fed too frequently for a while and is about 595G) and adult mice at the most, not even retired breeders/XL mice (too fatty). Both of my corns eat an adult mouse (F/T) every 2 weeks and maintain weight (Figment, male), and are growing slowly still (Solana, the female). Don't get me wrong, Corns are awesome snakes and great pets. I just don't think it's a good idea to throw them a small rat that your BP won't take.

Dumerils are cool boas, but don't get too much smaller than certainly a male BI likely would. I am not telling you to go against your instinct. If you think a BI is too much boa, that's fine, but a lot has to do with how often and what they are fed. I thought that too and 27 years into reptile keeping, I got my first boa. I now have 3 and I adore them. One is a dwarf BC and the other two are BI's (one male and one female).

They also grow (if fed properly) really slowly. My female BI, Behira, is 4 1/2 years old and about 5 1/2 feet and 5 pounds or so. She has great body definition and is still growing well on medium rats every 2-3 weeks. However, she's definitely giving me time to adjust to her growth and by the time she's 7+ feet, I will be very used to her and her size. Males tend to be thinner bodied if not shorter as well. If a well fed, but not obese female is about 14-20 pounds +/-, a male might be 7-12 pounds +/-.

That brings me to my second point; there are plenty of dwarf boa species that can be really cool pets AND be your BP's garbage disposal that will not get bigger, or even as big, as Behira, my female BI who is about 1/2 to 1/3 size now.

Anyway, I just wanted to throw those ideas out there. 1. Corns are great, but shouldn't eat more than adult mice. 2. BI's and Dwarf BI's and BC's can be awesome pets and take time to get to size, so you can grow with them.

Finally, on the boa issue, if you think they are too big, again, stay away. It's up to you. I just know my mind changed when I got my first and handled some big female BI's and a male Suriname who was full grown. If treated right, 97% of boas are docile as can be when out. They do have a HUGE food response though, so be aware.

---

That's too bad, thought a corn would be too small for the task but figured it was worth bringing up for the sentimental value as a corn was my first snake years ago (still heavily regret rehoming it).

As for BCIs, I did a little more research just now and it seems I made an error, always though 10 feet was the norm for an adult, but apparently that's an exceptional instance and the most even the females get is more around 7-8 feet, in other words not much different from the likes of bull snakes and kin I've looked at. At any rate it's not that the size intimidates me in of itself, I fear no animal, but more that I'd be able to make such a leap from a smaller species. Though your comment on how slow they grow is encouraging.

Ironic however that I get annoyed at friends and family freaking out at hearing I own a python and thinking I own some supergiant serpent only for me to practically to do the same thing with boas. :rofl:

Could just get another BP since there's more morphs to choose from, many that I'm still discovering to this day, but that'd kinda defeating the purpose plus I'd like different species experience anyway.

I don't know what it is, but there's just something I find incredibly cute when he rests his head just out of the hide like this, like a game of peekaboo. (Still always having reflection issues whenever I try to take enclosure pictures but what can ya do).
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a8e0e081cf.jpg

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

I've started to notice he pokes his head out like the pic in the previous post in direct response to my presence half the time. Today I even saw him physically move his head out from his hide when I approached the glass.

It's neat that he recognizes me, but something tells me it's more out of "Oh do you have food?" than anything else. It's like a much more subtle version of the attention I get from my fish lol.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snagrio

I've started to notice he pokes his head out like the pic in the previous post in direct response to my presence half the time. Today I even saw him physically move his head out from his hide when I approached the glass.

It's neat that he recognizes me, but something tells me it's more out of "Oh do you have food?" than anything else. It's like a much more subtle version of the attention I get from my fish lol.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

---

I concur ...

:)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

So that weird "scratch" on his belly I brought up a while ago? It took me until yesterday to realize that it's just his belly button. :rofl:

Still learning my way around the basics it would seem.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snagrio

So that weird "scratch" on his belly I brought up a while ago? It took me until yesterday to realize that it's just his belly button. :rofl:

Still learning my way around the basics it would seem.

---

Don’t be too hard on yourself .. I had no idea they even had belly buttons !!


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5c9d12f885.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Well what me and my boyfriend did was take a tank that was really tall and turned it on it side and used j channel to make a track and used plexie to make sliding doors and the command hooks to latch the doors in place. It turned out great and you could keep the tank you have. Cluttering it would be a good idea though.

All's been going well so far; eating well, looking well, behaving well, really about the last challenge to go will be switching him to rats which I'll try once he reaches the 200 gram mark (which he's really close to, currently at 175 and should breach it by the time his current mouse supply is done).

However I've started looking into new housing for the future. Would like to get a T8 from Animal Plastics (especially because dealing with the humidity imbalance is getting tiresome), but the question is how long should I wait until he's old enough to feel comfortable in larger digs? A year old or so I'm assuming? He's already at 5 months and with how long they take to ship I'm wondering if it'd be a good idea to order one relatively soon, and the T8 model is currently on sale to boot.

It continues to amaze me how compact snakes can make themselves (though I with BALL pythons I guess it'd go without saying that it's their specialty).

Zebes is around 2 feet long yet here he is neatly fitting in my palm.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...56338eb64a.jpg

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

With the onset of winter and indoor heating, it's become a daily struggle to keep humidity levels up. The highest I can keep it at is 50% at best by soaking half the substrate in warm water before it dips back into the 30's in 24 hours. And I don't want to soak it too much either since you know, scale rot (I already take precaution and don't wet the area around the hide he spends most of his time in).

I still have the humidity box in there and I've yet to see him use it again since his last shed and he's eating as eagerly as ever so it's clearly not bothering him thus far at least.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snagrio

With the onset of winter and indoor heating, it's become a daily struggle to keep humidity levels up. The highest I can keep it at is 50% at best by soaking half the substrate in warm water before it dips back into the 30's in 24 hours. And I don't want to soak it too much either since you know, scale rot (I already take precaution and don't wet the area around the hide he spends most of his time in).

I still have the humidity box in there and I've yet to see him use it again since his last shed and he's eating as eagerly as ever so it's clearly not bothering him thus far at least.

---

A room humidifier placed near his cage would likely help.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GoingPostal

A room humidifier placed near his cage would likely help.

---

Problem is he lives in the basement and my mom doesn't want more humidity down here. The only ending solution would be to get a PVC enclosure and that won't be until next year when he's big enough for it.

Get a plastic bowl or Tupperware tub of soaked sphagnum moss and put it in the enclosure. I keep a tub of soaked moss under my Radiant Heat Panel and that moisture evaporates and raises the humidity throughout the entire enclosure. Your substrate stays dry so no concerns of scale rot. You'll just have to re-soak the moss every few days as it dries out.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hilabeans

Get a plastic bowl or Tupperware tub of soaked sphagnum moss and put it in the enclosure. I keep a tub of soaked moss under my Radiant Heat Panel and that moisture evaporates and raises the humidity throughout the entire enclosure. Your substrate stays dry so no concerns of scale rot. You'll just have to re-soak the moss every few days as it dries out.

---

That's exactly what I've been doing actually. But the ambient humidity percentage tanks to the 30's if the Tupperware full of moss is the only thing I dampen. Though would he be okay if I did that instead of constantly soaking the substrate since he always has the option to enter a dedicated moist space? He only really seemed to use it when he entered his shed cycle so it seems like the lower humidity levels don't bother him much.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snagrio

That's exactly what I've been doing actually. But the ambient humidity percentage tanks to the 30's if the Tupperware full of moss is the only thing I dampen. Though would he be okay if I did that instead of constantly soaking the substrate since he always has the option to enter a dedicated moist space? He only really seemed to use it when he entered his shed cycle so it seems like the lower humidity levels don't bother him much.

---

That's what I do for my Aussie spotted python (apparently mostly a coast species). Her cage & overall substrate is dry, but she has a large humid (& semi-warmed) hide with damp moss- she loves it & when she's shedding, she NEEDS it to shed perfectly. But she uses her other 2 hides also, at various times when it suits her. (one cool, one heated) I could be wrong, but I don't think that BPs in the wild (in Africa) have a constantly moist or humid substrate either. As long as your BP has the option, I don't think the lower overall humidity is an issue.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bogertophis

That's what I do for my Aussie spotted python (apparently mostly a coast species). Her cage & overall substrate is dry, but she has a large humid (& semi-warmed) hide with damp moss- she loves it & when she's shedding, she NEEDS it to shed perfectly. But she uses her other 2 hides also, at various times when it suits her. (one cool, one heated) I could be wrong, but I don't think that BPs in the wild (in Africa) have a constantly moist or humid substrate either. As long as your BP has the option, I don't think the lower overall humidity is an issue.

---

Sounds good then. Was worried since everyone says 60% is the benchmark but as long as he has the option for damper quarters it should be okay.

And by some point next year he'll have a PCV home that's more stable humidity-wise so he won't be living in such conditions forever either.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snagrio

Sounds good then. Was worried since everyone says 60% is the benchmark but as long as he has the option for damper quarters it should be okay.

And by some point next year he'll have a PCV home that's more stable humidity-wise so he won't be living in such conditions forever either.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

---

I think you'll be ok- too much dampness (that they can't avoid) can promote skin infections too (like fungal infections, that "like" it warm & moist). It's hard to get all the options right for a captive snake that wants "some" humidity. I would pay attention though, like if your snake spends all their time in the humid hide?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bogertophis

I think you'll be ok- too much dampness (that they can't avoid) can promote skin infections too (like fungal infections, that "like" it warm & moist). It's hard to get all the options right for a captive snake that wants "some" humidity. I would pay attention though, like if your snake spends all their time in the humid hide?

---

Yeah, if he starts to do that and isn't in shed then it'll be cause for concern, but thus far he's been more than content to remain in his hide.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snagrio

To start off, I currently have an empty 30 gallon tank (36"X12"X16") that's already on a nice cabinet stand and everything. It's for fish so the lid would have to be replaced, but the question is should I even bother or go straight for a recommended 40 gallon breeder that's both easier to access (since it's shorter) and offers more floor space that ball pythons enjoy. Or should I start with that if I get a baby and upgrade later since I've heard conflicting messaging in terms of "too much space" when snakes are young?

:D

---

Seems way too big for a baby snake.
This what I had whilst mine was young. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6c78f086aa.jpg
Used it for about six/seven months then got a 3½ foot viv. Big enough for him to completely stretch himself out once he’s reached 'full size'.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MuicyJelon

Seems way too big for a baby snake.
This what I had whilst mine was young. https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...6c78f086aa.jpg
Used it for about six/seven months then got a 3½ foot viv. Big enough for him to completely stretch himself out once he’s reached 'full size'.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

I filled the tank with decor to compensate, don't worry. I've monitored him closely and he's perfectly comfortable (I've seen what he looks like when stressed and it's only happened a couple times over new circumstances like when I put moss in his hide which he did not like). He'll get a T8 sometime next year as his permanent home at any rate.

Speaking of growth though, weighed him today and he's past 200 grams (212 to be exact). Once he's down to his last couple mice I'll get some small rats and see about switching him to those. Plan to try scenting them with a mouse to ease him over, but with how voracious his appetite is I don't think it'll be a problem.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snagrio

I filled the tank with decor to compensate, don't worry. I've monitored him closely and he's perfectly comfortable (I've seen what he looks like when stressed and it's only happened a couple times over new circumstances like when I put moss in his hide which he did not like). He'll get a T8 sometime next year as his permanent home at any rate.

Speaking of growth though, weighed him today and he's past 200 grams (212 to be exact). Once he's down to his last couple mice I'll get some small rats and see about switching him to those. Plan to try scenting them with a mouse to ease him over, but with how voracious his appetite is I don't think it'll be a problem.

---

Great stuff. [emoji106]
Only had mine for 2 years but it’s always helpful to come on here to ask questions, etc. It looks as though the snake you’ve got is the same morph as mine [emoji16] those colours will start to 'pop' after a few sheds.
Will give my opinions on some of the other things you’ve said as well, had forgotten about this thread. [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MuicyJelon

Great stuff. [emoji106]
Only had mine for 2 years but it’s always helpful to come on here to ask questions, etc. It looks as though the snake you’ve got is the same morph as mine [emoji16] those colours will start to 'pop' after a few sheds.
Will give my opinions on some of the other things you’ve said as well, had forgotten about this thread. [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

I’ve just checked and it’s not a 3 1/2 ft viv it’s a 2.8ft viv. Lol. At some point in the future I’ll be getting the maxi-medium viv which’s a bit deeper so he’s got more space to roam about.[emoji116]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...aadca09c26.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fa07ef27c2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Snagrio

Next is location and humidity. Where I live the weather conditions change frequently with the seasons (and even by the week/day sometimes) so I've been thinking of putting the enclosure in the basement where it's more stable (the basement is a finished one and I'm down here a lot by default). Would that be ideal? For reference I plan on using coconut fiber substrate since from what I've heard it strikes a nice balance of retaining humidity while not absorbing it too much and rotting, plus its visual appeal and safety if ingested on accident (as I'd like to do in-tank feeding, did out of tank feeding last time and would rather not again if possible).

Then there's heating. Going to do a UTH, but then my question comes with lighting. I know ball pythons don't necessarily need it, but given mine will probably be living in the basement I'd like to give it light so it can have a proper day/night cycle. But with heating already covered, does that mean I can simply do something like attach a regular lightbulb to a lamp so it doesn't add too much heat? Or would that be too much still? Also, I've read that if you want more humidity you should put the water bowl over the UTH (I am aware you keep the UTH itself outside the tank though). Is that a good idea? Does it evaporate the water too fast or make the water too hot?
:D

---

Mine is kept in my bedroom which’s in the loft, it can get cold up here especially in winter (Liverpool), right now the outside temp is about 5°C during daytime it’s been around 9°C BUT I have a oil heater which’s great and will bring the temperature up quickly and with ease plus it’ll cost less than a normal heater when it comes to the electric bill even it’s on the highest setting[emoji16]. If you’re putting your snake in your basement I doubt you’ll need it.

The substrate I use is the zoo med eco-earth & Forrest floor, it’s safe and great for holding humidity as well especially during a shed. Usually if I have them I will put in some leaves that’ve been naturally harvested and dried.

I use a RHP (radiant heat panel) that’s on the ceiling of the viv with a guard as well to prevent burns, and two heat mats which have covers over them for my heating, one mat on the cool side set at a lower temp than the one on the warm/hot side, *if* you get a viv don’t put the mats on the outside under the viv, the heat will not get through just put a guard over it
. I also put newspaper down as well over heat mat covers just to be safe, then I put the substrate on top of that. All connected to a thermostat btw.
When I first moved him to the viv I used a ceramic heat bulb with a cylindrical guard, unfortunately he was fond of coiling around it which I wasn’t pleased with [emoji23] which’s why I switched to the RHP which’s great at keeping a stable ambient temp and they can’t wrap themselves around it.
On lighting I use white Python leds which are very good. If you wanted to you could have two colours set up for it, I just use the standard white ones though in the past I have used both white and green. These are set on a timer as well to turn off at a certain time in the evening & turn on in the morning.
On the placement of the water bowl, imo you could see what the humidity’s like with the bowl on the cooler before side you make a decision on it. Personally mines just in the middle of the viv.
[emoji106]
Here’s what I use:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...12604a4b29.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...29a47f82be.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b1cd5f9b77.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fb5dd1c4c1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...13bb0bc9f7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...55c85da5b3.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk