Enclosure for Boa

"Then set the temp on the t-stat to 88F. Wait an 30 mins to an hour and then check the temp all over the heat tape with a temp gun from the inside of the floor of the cage with no substrate on it. It will vary as heat tape isnt 100% uniform. You want it to average around 86-88F. A spot of 90F or a spot of 84F isnt going to hurt, you just want it mostly around 86-88F."


Sauzo is dead on here. I think some people freak out if there are spots that are higher or lower than "desired." I have flexwatt and a RHP on the hot side of my 6X2X1' Boaphile tank. It ranges from 85-91F if you test every single square inch. However, 90% of the spots I hit are 86-89, with an average of about 88F.

Try to keep all spots above 84F or so and under 91-92F or so, but if you are averaging about 88F you are good.

Also mentioned here is how to test ambient temps.

All my tanks are well enclosed (again Boaphile tanks - similar with AP, for example) and for my snakes, about a foot tall (my BTS has about 18 inches of clearance because he needs basking bulbs for UV). There isn't much variance between ground temps and 6 inches up on the tank AWAY FROM HEAT SOURCES. So, I do get my ambients temps with a heat gun. If I hit the wall in the middle of the tank, or the substrate, there is little to no difference. Again, this in the area (about 3 1/2 to 4FT of tank) in the middle of the tank where there are zero heat sources.

In a glass tank however, I imagine there is more variance as heat escapes. Also, taller tanks, or tanks without RHP's, etc. will all be different. Once you know your setup, and it handles heat and humidity well, I find a heat gun works well.

Ok I cut out a bunch of cardboard and taped it together I also made some hides for him with cardboard. I couldn't figure out which insulation it was but I did get the tape you would talking about and taped the UTH to the glass at the bottom. For some reason the UTH probe has a 5 degree difference to when I hit with a temp gun (at the glass with no substrate inside the cage). I guess because it goes through the glass? Let me know what you guys think. I just finished so I'll check the temps in an hour. I took the snake out for the time being. Is it ok that the tape smells a little, it won't harm the snake right? Thank you everyone for taking the time to help me lol!

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psqkddazto.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psozjtev57.jpg

Do you think I should replace the substrate with paper towels? I cleaned out his cage and I think they might have been urine hiding under there or water.. does their urine smell?

While it's great that you took the time to make the hides, tape inside the enclosure is a big no no

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

Do you think I should replace the substrate with paper towels? I cleaned out his cage and I think they might have been urine hiding under there or water.. does their urine smell?

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1. The tape is holding The UTH to the glass, but is not in the enclosure, correct?

2. I use printless newspaper but it is harder to maintain humidity than some other substrates.

However. It is much easier to keep clean.

There will be a difference between what the probe reeds and what is the temp in the tank.

It should be consistent (hopefully). For example if it reads 93 at the probe and is 88 in the tank, you know you are 5 degrees off and can adjust accordingly.

Urine tends to smell, but probably not terrible with a small BCI. It’s also yellow.

Very important to keep the tank CLEAN!

There was normal packing tape on the hide boxes but I took the hide boxes out. Also I taped the Accurite to the glass with the foil tape but I took the tape off now and it's sitting on the ground again. There is foil tape around the cardboard I laid on top, I was thinking of covering them in that tape since they are near the CHE. Or should I not? There is no more tape in the enclosure at all.

Maybe I'll try the unprinted newspaper after I get the temps under control later.

Ok that makes sense it would be a few degrees off. I think it's pretty stable now. The temps on the UTH side vary from 84-88. I might set it 1 more degree higher on the thermostat. I'm still watching the cool side one, I switched it to a 100 watt because the 60 watt was almost constantly running at 100%.

I'm guessing it was just water then, I smelled it and it just smelled like mulch.

Do you think his belly is slightly burnt? It still catches on a lot of things and I feel its on his belly and sometimes on his sides.

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

Ok I cut out a bunch of cardboard and taped it together I also made some hides for him with cardboard. I couldn't figure out which insulation it was but I did get the tape you would talking about and taped the UTH to the glass at the bottom. For some reason the UTH probe has a 5 degree difference to when I hit with a temp gun (at the glass with no substrate inside the cage). I guess because it goes through the glass? Let me know what you guys think. I just finished so I'll check the temps in an hour. I took the snake out for the time being. Is it ok that the tape smells a little, it won't harm the snake right? Thank you everyone for taking the time to help me lol!

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psqkddazto.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psozjtev57.jpg

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You will get a little variance in temps simply because of the glass. Not sure it should be 5 degrees but whatever works. My AP cages have a 5 degree variance but that is going through 1/2 inch CDPVC. Just temp gun the whole floor after a couple hours and see what it is. If it is 86-88F then you are fine with whatever the setting is on the Herpstat.

And no the foil tape should not smell like anything. It's a metal tape. You must be smelling something else.

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

There was normal packing tape on the hide boxes but I took the hide boxes out. Also I taped the Accurite to the glass with the foil tape but I took the tape off now and it's sitting on the ground again. There is foil tape around the cardboard I laid on top, I was thinking of covering them in that tape since they are near the CHE. Or should I not? There is no more tape in the enclosure at all.

Maybe I'll try the unprinted newspaper after I get the temps under control later.

Ok that makes sense it would be a few degrees off. I think it's pretty stable now. The temps on the UTH side vary from 84-88. I might set it 1 more degree higher on the thermostat. I'm still watching the cool side one, I switched it to a 100 watt because the 60 watt was almost constantly running at 100%.

I'm guessing it was just water then, I smelled it and it just smelled like mulch.

Do you think his belly is slightly burnt? It still catches on a lot of things and I feel its on his belly and sometimes on his sides.

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And no tape at all inside the cage. If you need to stick the temp unit on the wall or something like that, I would use velcro tape of the strongest you can find and make sure the stuff is cut smaller than the unit. You dont want any exposed tape at all. And generally you just dont want tape period inside the cage.

I just leave my Acurites on the floor. The snakes will bulldoze them and have actually pooped on them a few times but whatever. i just wipe them off with F10SC and call it good.

Sounds like you got the UTH set up good.

As for having a burnt belly, got a pic? If it looks normal but just the belly scales kind of catch a little on stuff, sounds like he is dry. If his belly is red, gooey and looks like a burn, then its burnt. You will know if its a burn. Just mist the mulch nice and heavy and keep it damp for a few days. Will probably wreck the cardboard hides but it should soften his belly scales back up. My retic gets very rough scales from his neck down about 1/3 of his body in the winter on aspen but he also pushes a lot when hungry. I sometimes switch him to ReptiChips and just keep it nice and moist for a couple weeks and he's fine.

But looking at the temp unit, i see a 40% humidity with a 70 degree temp. You need to get that humidity up to 65-75% and that temp up to about 77 degrees.

As for covering the top, i would use tin foil or at the least tin foil wrapped cardboard. The exposed cardboard top is just going to suck up moisture. And i would cover more of the top. Personally i would cover the whole top by using a 1 piece piece of cardboard. Just set the lamp cage on the cardboard where you want it and trace it with a pen or pencil. Then cut it out so the wire frame fits. Then wrap the whole top in tin foil and secure it with tape on the top. I used a cover like that for my 20 gallon and 40 gallon quarantine tanks and it worked great.

Also i would probably cut the hides down a little shorter. Snakes like something that they can feel the top easily with their head so they feel like they are in a short, small place that animals cant get to them.

I guess the tape just smells like adhesive lol.

Ok, I'll just leave the Acurite on the ground.

His belly is not red or pink, I tried to take a pic and you can't really tell. I will try to keep the substrate wet for the next week and see if that helps.

Should I put the hides back in there? I took them out because they have clear packing tape on them. I just ordered 2 plastics hides but I don't think they will get here until next week.

The tin foil wrapped cardboard for the top is a great idea!!! I will do that tonight. The 40% was because I had the lid off for so long adjusting stuff earlier. The humidity is staying like 60-75% until I take the cardboard pieces off. The temp on the cool side is about 75 right now.

So I’ve been watching the temps and I think the CHE (100 watt) runs at 100% a lot. It’s usually when I’m not home and I don’t have the space heater on in my bedroom. Should I switch it to the 150 watt? The lowest it gets on the cool side is 71.

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

So I’ve been watching the temps and I think the CHE (100 watt) runs at 100% a lot. It’s usually when I’m not home and I don’t have the space heater on in my bedroom. Should I switch it to the 150 watt? The lowest it gets on the cool side is 71.

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If it runs 100% and the cool side is only 71F, then yes. Lol how cold is that room. I find it astonishing that a 100 watt CHE wont heat a 20 gallon tank.

It can get down to 65 and that's when the issue usually is. If I'm home and I have the space heater on for that room it says at 77 on the cool side with no issue lol.

So I switched the CHE to a 150 watt and its keeping the cool side temp where it supposed to but it's eating the humidity like crazy. Should I switch back to the 100 watt? (The cool side temp doesn't go lower than 70 or is there something else to help with the humidity?

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

So I switched the CHE to a 150 watt and its keeping the cool side temp where it supposed to but it's eating the humidity like crazy. Should I switch back to the 100 watt? (The cool side temp doesn't go lower than 70 or is there something else to help with the humidity?

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How low is the humidity?

Are you adjusting the temps in the cage via thermostat since your room temps fluctuate so much?

I'd be more worried about low temps and high humidity than ok humidity and perfect temps. Just me.

In the winter, my BCI and BP tanks are around 55-60% on average and I mist with warm water every other day. So, they average about 60%+ - higher when in shed of course.

In the summer no problem keeping it 60-70%.

The problem with good humidity but low temps is you can have shedding issues anyway, and get an RI or other illnesses because it is damp and too cold.

Same with humidity that it too high - regarding illness like RI.

Again, there has to be sustained imbalances with animals like BCI's, BP's, etc. Other species of Boa's, for example Rainbow Boa's, true red tails (BCC), etc. are not as forgiving.

So, if you are just working on dialing things in now, don't freak out. It will probably be fine.

Good you are paying attention and want what's best for your BCI.

I literally have to spray it a few times a day and I think it has dropped to 40% a one point (per Acurite thermometer). The thermometer keeps record of the lowest and highest percentages. I sprayed it about 3-4 hours ago and it spiked to 80 and then dropped to 57.

Both the UTH and CHE are plugged into the thermostat now. The temps with the 150 watt stay stable and the CHE doesn't run at 100% constantly anymore.

That's a very good point about high humidity and it not being warm enough. I guess the low humidity is the lesser evils than it not being warm enough lol.

Should I try to put in a second water bowl? I don't have much room to work with lol!

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

I literally have to spray it a few times a day and I think it has dropped to 40% a one point (per Acurite thermometer). The thermometer keeps record of the lowest and highest percentages. I sprayed it about 3-4 hours ago and it spiked to 80 and then dropped to 57.

Both the UTH and CHE are plugged into the thermostat now. The temps with the 150 watt stay stable and the CHE doesn't run at 100% constantly anymore.

That's a very good point about high humidity and it not being warm enough. I guess the low humidity is the lesser evils than it not being warm enough lol.

Should I try to put in a second water bowl? I don't have much room to work with lol!

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What substrate are you using?

A second small bowl could help. So could some reptile moss or even a container with something like Reptile Prime/Coconut Husks, assuming you are using paper towels.

Frankly, if your cage is open on top, not sure how much a bowl would help. The humidity will just escape!

How soon until you get an AP, or Boaphile, etc. tank? That will solve all your problems, LOL.

I keep a small tupperware type container with a lid and a small cutout with moist paper towels in it for my leopard geckos when they shed. I keep it there always, but they use when in shed. They like it dry though. I imagine it would work if you could keep humidity about 50%+ for your BCI boy, but it would need to be big enough for him to get into. Space requirements again.

There is another option, assuming cost isn't a big deal, and it will take while to get a proper enclosure. Boaphile is 5-6 weeks, and I am not sure about AP.

There are other semi-enclosed options. Where you could use what you already have in terms of heating, except maybe the UTH.

http://reptile-enclosure.com/Front-Opening-with-Doors

http://reptile-enclosure.com/Front-O...ing-with-Doors

I have their 40G I used for my BCI before I got my Boaphile tank setup. I am not saying you have to do business with them, but something similar maybe? They are in CT, where I live, and picked up from them directly.

Way better than glass, but you have to supply all the heating elements etc.

Any reptile shows near you? Maybe you can get something better in the meantime? Just trying to think outside the box.

I think glass works if your room is okay to begin with. Your room sounds like a disaster for a BCI and you are working really hard just to maintain.

I'd be thinking of another enclosure ASAP, or a better room/house! I am guessing the enclosure is the best way to go.

I rambled here, but I am trying to give you all the options.

I am using cypress mulch and the top in covered by a piece of cardboard wrapped in tin foil. There's very limited space in the 20 gal, but I'll try to find a different larger bowl.

I started another thread about the AP cages and the stand that come with them and most people are not using the stand. I was originally going to order the stand and the coasters to go along with the cage so that does cut down the cost. I will most likely be ordering the cage in the next couple weeks because it such a headache worrying about the humidity all the time. I will just continue to spay the cage a few times a day. I also want to go ahead and order the T10 now because it takes forever to ship lol (3 months). I'll just be eating ramen noodles for the next couple months. :rolleyes:

I do have one question, can I set the AP T10 on the floor if I haven't found a stand when it comes? I don't know how the belly heat/flexwatt is attached.

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

I am using cypress mulch and the top in covered by a piece of cardboard wrapped in tin foil. There's very limited space in the 20 gal, but I'll try to find a different larger bowl.

I started another thread about the AP cages and the stand that come with them and most people are not using the stand. I was originally going to order the stand and the coasters to go along with the cage so that does cut down the cost. I will most likely be ordering the cage in the next couple weeks because it such a headache worrying about the humidity all the time. I will just continue to spay the cage a few times a day. I also want to go ahead and order the T10 now because it takes forever to ship lol (3 months). I'll just be eating ramen noodles for the next couple months. :rolleyes:

I do have one question, can I set the AP T10 on the floor if I haven't found a stand when it comes? I don't know how the belly heat/flexwatt is attached.

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No idea how AP cages work and how much they weigh. So moving later could be annoying, no idea.

My guess is that flexwatt with a thermostat won't get hot enough to hurt anything, but maybe put a piece of plywood/PVC, etc, to buffer the floor just in case?

Also, going to be a royal pain to clean when on the floor.

My Boaphile setup is 5 tanks high and they are on a 12 inch stand/box. I use knee pads to clean the bottom tank where Figment, my Corn lives. It's only a foot off the ground!

Be careful spraying often, it can cool the temps a little, even with warm water. I try to do once a day or every other day, at the most, even if I spray more in one shot.

With your new cage, I imagine it's going to be way better.

Yeah I should able to find a stand I like within 3 months but just in case. I put a soaked towel in the corner of the cage yesterday and it's really helping with humidity. I'm going to wash the towel every few days so it doesn't mold.

So I put two black plastic hides that I recently ordered in my boas cage. Every time I put up the one on the warm side it’s dripping wet and the substrate under it is wet. It has helped the humidity in the cage but I’m sure this can’t be good for him if it’s that wet. What should I do?

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

So I put two black plastic hides that I recently ordered in my boas cage. Every time I put up the one on the warm side it’s dripping wet and the substrate under it is wet. It has helped the humidity in the cage but I’m sure this can’t be good for him if it’s that wet. What should I do?

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A little behind on this thread. However, substrate should not be wet. Use less and/or switch to paper, etc. Damp/wet with reptile temps can lead to illness quick. Humid yes, wet, no! Unless you just misted or something, but even then, it should dry fairly quickly, and only be the top layer.

Cannot wait for you to get a better tank! I bet you cannot either!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by svtvenom

So I put two black plastic hides that I recently ordered in my boas cage. Every time I put up the one on the warm side it’s dripping wet and the substrate under it is wet. It has helped the humidity in the cage but I’m sure this can’t be good for him if it’s that wet. What should I do?

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I have this issue with all my hides whenever i use fresh substrate if it isnt dry like aspen. I just wipe it out with a paper towel every couple days and eventually when the substrate dries out a little, the condensation inside the hides will quit forming.

Also there is nothing wrong with it being a little damp inside a hide. My boas used them still and if they didnt want to, they would wander off behind a hide.

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

I have this issue with all my hides whenever i use fresh substrate if it isnt dry like aspen. I just wipe it out with a paper towel every couple days and eventually when the substrate dries out a little, the condensation inside the hides will quit forming.

Also there is nothing wrong with it being a little damp inside a hide. My boas used them still and if they didnt want to, they would wander off behind a hide.

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Good point, a little condensation is ok. I was thinking wet hide, substrate, etc. Forgot enclosure humidity is being measured as well.

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

Actually, its opposite. Snakes usually grow larger in captivity because they are fed like clockwork more food than needed and live in optimal conditions with no need to exercise or actually 'hunt' for food. In the wild, boas can and do go months without food. They need to first find it and then actually catch it. Not to mention in the winter there, they go 3+ months with no food at all. This is why boas are opportunistic feeders and dont pass up meals unless they have been stuffed. They also arent fed the optimum size food either. In the wild, they cant be picky. So they might get lucky and get a nice big dinner or they might end up only catching a snack.

And i have never seen a 10 foot BCi ever. i have seen 8 foot ones but those are usually about 10-15 years old if properly fed. If over fed, they are usually dead within 5 years. Now BCC do get large, especially Peruvians which are the largest BCC and do get to 10 feet. But those snakes are very old. Rule of thumb i was told was that if you properly feed your boa, you can expect about 12 inches per year of growth for the first 3-4 years. Then it slows down dramatically.

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You are saying boas grow larger in captivity, and that you have never ever seen a 10 foot BCI, only 8 foot omnes.
This is a 3,30 meters (11 feet) WILD BOA. This proves the opposite of all what you are saying. Read what the owner of the video wrote below the video in the introduction

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kp8k6kHAUm0

In the wild they have the freedom to eat what they want when ever they want

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Originally Posted by Dutti

You are saying boas grow larger in captivity, and that you have never ever seen a 10 foot BCI, only 8 foot omnes.
This is a 3,30 meters (11 feet) WILD BOA. This proves the opposite of all what you are saying. Read what the owner of the video wrote below the video in the introduction

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kp8k6kHAUm0

In the wild they have the freedom to eat what they want when ever they want

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That is an extremely pissed off Boa! Hissing for like a minute straight.

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Originally Posted by Godzilla78

That is an extremely pissed off Boa! Hissing for like a minute straight.

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This is what the owner of the video wrote:"Appreciates this beautiful and intimidating animal, which was captured near the civilian population, was relocated and released in an area suitable for its development. 3.30mts and weighed more than 22kg."
Pissed off because of the relocation i would guess. Needs time to accommodate to the new environment

Ok awesome. I will wipe them down. I ordered my AP T10 this past week. I can’t wait to get rid of this stupid glass cage lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dutti

You are saying boas grow larger in captivity, and that you have never ever seen a 10 foot BCI, only 8 foot omnes.
This is a 3,30 meters (11 feet) WILD BOA. This proves the opposite of all what you are saying. Read what the owner of the video wrote below the video in the introduction

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kp8k6kHAUm0

In the wild they have the freedom to eat what they want when ever they want

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No comment from the member whom i referred to about this. Just saying

To be fair , you can't tell how long that Boa is .. looks more like a four foot one comparing it to the normal size of rocks you generally come across in the woods .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

To be fair , you can't tell how long that Boa is .. looks more like a four foot one comparing it to the normal size of rocks you generally come across in the woods .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Such a ridiculous claim! You are joking aren't you? I laughed when i read your above mentioned statement despite that it began with TO BE FAIR