How to set up a PVC cage (AP T8) With Pictures!

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Originally Posted by danojeno

It is cleaner, but not necessary, to have AP install the RHPs. In addition to the basic install, which looks quite easy, they router channels for the power cords. This looks alot cleaner. Now, if you have 78 to 82 temps in that room, you are not going to be running squat for heat, if the fluorescents are on. The other day we had a crazy heat spell and I came home to a screaming Herpstat alarm, set to 86. Ambient room temp was 82 and the fluorescents cooked up the cage to 86. Temp gradient is easy to maintain...unless your room temp equals your ideal ambient or cool side temp. Then any heat you throw at the hot side erases the gradient. Not a big deal, but gotta watch out for the light usage when the room is warm.

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I wonder whether Animal Plastics would router channels for RHP power cords when I order the T8 so that if I end up needing the RHPs next winter, I could add the RHPs myself and still end up with the same clean look as though AP had done the install.

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

Your list looks good.

All 3 heat sources will need their own thermostat (or thermostat channel in the case of the herpstat 2 or 4).

You have 3 options:

1. Get a herpstat 4 from the beginning. This is as future proof as possible. If nothing else you could use the other channels to control the lights, and even musters.

2. Get a herpstat 1 now and if you need to add RHP's down the road get a herpstat 2 for them at that time as well.

3. Get a herpstat 2 from the start. If you need RHP's stop using heat tape and only the RHP's.

You cannot run heat tape without a thermostat.


I wouldn't consider other thermostats currently. The herpstat thermostat line has more features, are safer, have great support, and are a better deal $ for $. Than anything else on the market.

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Hmm.. That's a tough call. If I start with the herpstat 1 but end up needing to get a herpstat 2, I'll have spent roughly the same amount of $ for the 1 and 2 as I would if I just broke down and bought the 4 to start with. On the other hand, if I start with the 1 and don't end up needing the RHPs and the herpstat 4, I'll have saved $200 (the cost of the T8 plus the S&H). If start with the herpstat 2 and attach the to the bottom of the T8 and (between the T8 and the flexwatt) but then need to go with the RHPs next winter, how difficult is it to move the probe from the bottom of the T8 to the inside of the T8 without damaging the probe or the flexwatt?

Also, for the flexwatt, you use the foil tape, not the double sticky tape, right?

Thanks again, Aaron for all your help!

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Originally Posted by BPGuy

Hmm.. That's a tough call. If I start with the herpstat 1 but end up needing to get a herpstat 2, I'll have spent roughly the same amount of $ for the 1 and 2 as I would if I just broke down and bought the 4 to start with. On the other hand, if I start with the 1 and don't end up needing the RHPs and the herpstat 4, I'll have saved $200 (the cost of the T8 plus the S&H). If start with the herpstat 2 and attach the to the bottom of the T8 and (between the T8 and the flexwatt) but then need to go with the RHPs next winter, how difficult is it to move the probe from the bottom of the T8 to the inside of the T8 without damaging the probe or the flexwatt?

Also, for the flexwatt, you use the foil tape, not the double sticky tape, right?

Thanks again, Aaron for all your help!

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It requires pulling off the flexwatt. It isn't hard, and should only take 15-20 minutes.

I use foil tape for my heat tape.

Make sure you ask AP to put a thermostat probe slot in the middle of the cage for you. They will do this for free.

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Originally Posted by BPGuy

I wonder whether Animal Plastics would router channels for RHP power cords when I order the T8 so that if I end up needing the RHPs next winter, I could add the RHPs myself and still end up with the same clean look as though AP had done the install.

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Can't hurt to ask Ali, she is terrific.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

I just finished speaking with Ali. Yes, they will route channels in the T8 for RHP power cords just in case I end up needing RHPs next winter. She was super nice. I went ahead and placed my order:

• Black T8 with sliding glass doors
• Lock
• Divider
• Two fluorescent lights
• Flexwatt (decided just to get it from AP rather than messing with ordering from Reptile Basics--although RB was a little bit less price-wise, it was only $12)

Now I just need to order the Herpstat. I've decided to go with the Herpstat 2. It is not that much more than the Herpstat. If need RHPs, I can run them off the Herpstat 2. if I need RHPs and flexwatt at same time, I can always run the flexwatt off one of the thermostats and run both RHPs off the other thermostat.

Thank you again, Aaron, for starting this thread and all your comments. Thanks to everyone else who chimed in. Can't wait for the T8 to arrive!

If I plan on using the flexwatt underneath the T8 should I buy the 8inch base? Or is the flexwatt safe to set on like a plastic desk, wooden table or on carpet floors?

This is what I plan on buying

T8 for 1 adult male python
2 White lights
1 flexwatt belly heat
8 inch circle screen
8 inch base (if I need it)

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Originally Posted by Zarrh

If I plan on using the flexwatt underneath the T8 should I buy the 8inch base? Or is the flexwatt safe to set on like a plastic desk, wooden table or on carpet floors?

This is what I plan on buying

T8 for 1 adult male python
2 White lights
1 flexwatt belly heat
8 inch circle screen
8 inch base (if I need it)

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I wouldn't put it on carpet, but a wood or plastic desk should be fine.

Hey guys, I have a question...

i have a 48"x24"x18"high pvcx cage, this cage has a divider in the middle. I am housing two ball pythons.
i have nighttime lows that are close to 68. I did not want to purchase RHP's, so what I did instead was purchase 4 feet of 12" heat tape and 4 feet of 4" heat tape. The 12" runs along the entire front, the 4" runs along the entire back side. I plan to keep the front at 90-92 degrees surface temp above the aspen bedding, and the back at around 80 degrees surface temp above the aspen bedding. I will be using a herpstat 4 to control these. I bought the herpstat 4 to future proof myself for when I decide to buys some racks. Does anyone see an issue with setting this up this way? The only worry I have is if the heat tape fails on both sides at once, they have nowhere to escape the heat, I don't think this is very likely to happen, but I could be wrong. If so I could always hook a dimmer to the back side, so the temps could never exceed 90 degrees in case of failure. Keep in mind I do monitor temps with thermostats and IR temp guns.

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Originally Posted by xdertonx

Hey guys, I have a question...

i have a 48"x24"x18"high pvcx cage, this cage has a divider in the middle. I am housing two ball pythons.
i have nighttime lows that are close to 68. I did not want to purchase RHP's, so what I did instead was purchase 4 feet of 12" heat tape and 4 feet of 4" heat tape. The 12" runs along the entire front, the 4" runs along the entire back side. I plan to keep the front at 90-92 degrees surface temp above the aspen bedding, and the back at around 80 degrees surface temp above the aspen bedding. I will be using a herpstat 4 to control these. I bought the herpstat 4 to future proof myself for when I decide to buys some racks. Does anyone see an issue with setting this up this way? The only worry I have is if the heat tape fails on both sides at once, they have nowhere to escape the heat, I don't think this is very likely to happen, but I could be wrong. If so I could always hook a dimmer to the back side, so the temps could never exceed 90 degrees in case of failure. Keep in mind I do monitor temps with thermostats and IR temp guns.

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The setup you just described will not do what you want it to. Heat tape has very little if any effect on air temperatures inside the cage, especially not in cages this big.

I know it's been a few months since this thread has been hit upon, but it's so informative that I hope no one minds :) Also, I'm back into the hobby from a four year hiatus. Go me!

Anywho, I have a couple questions for those who have dealt with AP. I bought my new babies day before yesterday, and they are just hanging out in 6qt tubs at the moment. I decided that this time around I would like to have my collection (at least, part of it) outside of a rack. I was thinking earlier today that I'd love to find something like the T8 that I can divide, and while I know they have a divider, I was wondering if I would be able to divide it into 3 or 4 separate areas? Looking at the design of the cage, I'm not even sure if it would be feasible to have dividers at the center of the glass, since I know they are precision cut to fit tightly. A 24x24 space for a hatchling is beyond too large. 12x24 or 16x24 sounds better. However, I don't want to purchase a smaller cage that I will outgrow (and obviously they are less cost efficient).

Also, if I am able to divide it into multiple sections, do you think they would further accommodate me by running heat tape along the entire rear end of the cage? I did see in a previous post that it is advised to purchase the flexwatt from Reptile Basics to save on money, so I suppose asking Ali about running the tape lengthwise would be a moot inquiry.. While on the topic of heat sources, would the fluorescent lights fit in the partitioned spaces I noted earlier? Have these lights been found cheaper elsewhere? With my plan requiring three or four of them, they're a big hit on the pocket at $20 each. But I also don't frequent home improvement shops, so I have no idea what those cost.

Hopefully this didn't turn into too much of a nonsensical ramble! I need to be in bed 5 hours ago ;) But I've been gone so long, it's hard to pull myself away from the forums again!

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Originally Posted by Lateralus_Love

I know it's been a few months since this thread has been hit upon, but it's so informative that I hope no one minds :) Also, I'm back into the hobby from a four year hiatus. Go me!

Anywho, I have a couple questions for those who have dealt with AP. I bought my new babies day before yesterday, and they are just hanging out in 6qt tubs at the moment. I decided that this time around I would like to have my collection (at least, part of it) outside of a rack. I was thinking earlier today that I'd love to find something like the T8 that I can divide, and while I know they have a divider, I was wondering if I would be able to divide it into 3 or 4 separate areas? Looking at the design of the cage, I'm not even sure if it would be feasible to have dividers at the center of the glass, since I know they are precision cut to fit tightly. A 24x24 space for a hatchling is beyond too large. 12x24 or 16x24 sounds better. However, I don't want to purchase a smaller cage that I will outgrow (and obviously they are less cost efficient).

Also, if I am able to divide it into multiple sections, do you think they would further accommodate me by running heat tape along the entire rear end of the cage? I did see in a previous post that it is advised to purchase the flexwatt from Reptile Basics to save on money, so I suppose asking Ali about running the tape lengthwise would be a moot inquiry.. While on the topic of heat sources, would the fluorescent lights fit in the partitioned spaces I noted earlier? Have these lights been found cheaper elsewhere? With my plan requiring three or four of them, they're a big hit on the pocket at $20 each. But I also don't frequent home improvement shops, so I have no idea what those cost.

Hopefully this didn't turn into too much of a nonsensical ramble! I need to be in bed 5 hours ago ;) But I've been gone so long, it's hard to pull myself away from the forums again!

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The only way you can use multiple dividers in a T8 would be to have AP cut the front of the cage so it has multiple vertical strips. Dividing a T8 into 3 wouldn't work very well, but 4 might. You will have issues with the doors but nothing that couldn't be worked around.

I heat all of my AP cages with a strip if heat tape from Reptile Basics going longways. It's cheaper to get it from them. I'm sure AP would accommodate you if you asked, but getting it from Reotile Basics is easier/cheaper.

The fluorescent light fixtures would have to be installed running parallel to the 24" side of the cage. The ones AP sells are nicer than the ones I've found locally and only cost $2-$3 more so I'd just stick with the ones AP offers.

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

You will have issues with the doors but nothing that couldn't be worked around.

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Thanks for the quick reply. Few more questions...Would you mind telling me your thoughts on the door issues that would occur with this kind of setup?

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

I heat all of my AP cages with a strip if heat tape from Reptile Basics going longways. It's cheaper to get it from them. I'm sure AP would accommodate you if you asked, but getting it from Reptile Basics is easier/cheaper.

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What width size do you go with for this setup? I would imagine the 11" flexwatt would be too much in a 24" long enclosure, but perhaps I'm just stuck thinking about having 4" flexwatt under a 28qt tub.

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Originally Posted by Lateralus_Love

Thanks for the quick reply. Few more questions...Would you mind telling me your thoughts on the door issues that would occur with this kind of setup?



What width size do you go with for this setup? I would imagine the 11" flexwatt would be too much in a 24" long enclosure, but perhaps I'm just stuck thinking about having 4" flexwatt under a 28qt tub.

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I use 12" THG Heat Tape from reptile Basics, 48" of it per T8.

The door issue boils down to you not being able to only open a single cage when trying to get to the inner 2 cages.

Here is what the front of a standard T8 looks like:

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...4.jpg~original

Here is a modified T8 set up for 3 dividers (4 cages)

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...f.jpg~original

A T8 has 2 sliding glass doors or 2 swing doors. I recommend the sliding glass doors.

To get to one of the inner cages you also have to open the outer cage at the same time. It isn't a huge deal, but under the right circumstances it could get annoying.

If you really wanted to have AP go all out you could ask them to make 4 swing style doors for the cage.

I'm thinking about getting my B-P a PVC cage soon from pvccages.com with a 40 Watt RHP built-in and adding FlexWatt to the bottom for the hot spot. To make life simpler I want to get a Herpstat 2 so I can control both heat sources with one unit. If I do this, though, is it still possible with the Herpstat 2 to configure a light control for day/night cycles? Or would I need more inputs?

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Originally Posted by Dev_DeCoste

I'm thinking about getting my B-P a PVC cage soon from pvccages.com with a 40 Watt RHP built-in and adding FlexWatt to the bottom for the hot spot. To make life simpler I want to get a Herpstat 2 so I can control both heat sources with one unit. If I do this, though, is it still possible with the Herpstat 2 to configure a light control for day/night cycles? Or would I need more inputs?

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No, you would need a herpstat 4 for that.

Okay, I had a feeling. Thanks!

Awesome job,but man,you need to add some fake plants and some stuff to give it a more natural enviroment,would look so much cooler... Looks great just bland

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Originally Posted by NYHC4LIFE8899

Awesome job,but man,you need to add some fake plants and some stuff to give it a more natural enviroment,would look so much cooler... Looks great just bland

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It's just stuff that needs to be disinfected/cleaned on a regular basis, and it does very little to nothing for the snakes as long as proper hides are provided. It just comes dwn to personal preference. I prefer the minimalistic look to fake plants.

At one point you say you use 4' of heat tape and another you say 2'. So which is better, one 2' strip of 12" tape or 2 strips side by side? I read that heat tape is supposed to cover 1/3 of the floor surface, is this right?

Thanks for all your help!

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Originally Posted by Dev_DeCoste

At one point you say you use 4' of heat tape and another you say 2'. So which is better, one 2' strip of 12" tape or 2 strips side by side? I read that heat tape is supposed to cover 1/3 of the floor surface, is this right?

Thanks for all your help!

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Back when I wrote this thread I set up my cages the way it is pictures with 2 foot of 12" heat tape. Currently I use a single piece of 12" heat tape that is 4 feet long and run it longways accords the back half of the bottom of the cages. I would post some pictures but I don't have any currently.

As for which is better I'd say that depends on how the cage is setup. If the cage is going to be divided I would go with the 48" piece of 12" heat tape. If the cage is going to be for a single snake I would set it up as pictures in this thread.

I wouldn't use 2 pieces of heat tape side by side on a T8.

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

Currently I use a single piece of 12" heat tape that is 4 feet long and run it longways accords the back half of the bottom of the cages...If the cage is going to be divided I would go with the 48" piece of 12" heat tape.

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Hey Aaron,

As you know, I've got a very similar T8 setup. I'm now starting to rethink my heating method - a single 11" strip up the middle of the T8 where the divider is. Going with 12" across the back seems like the right direction, but I question if 12" is necessary, as it is 50% of the width. From Rich's Heat Tape FAQ (Reptile Basics), he doesn't recommend going more than 1/3 of the floor surface area which makes me lean towards 6" over 12". Any thoughts?

Regardless of the width, is 48" the right length for our T8s across the back? I only ask because I'm wondering if any extra length needs to be accounted for when considering the wire/clips/insulators that go on one end. Of course I could ask Rich, but I figured I'd ask you since you've got the setup in place already.

Thanks, man!

Best regards,
Eric

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

Back when I wrote this thread I set up my cages the way it is pictures with 2 foot of 12" heat tape. Currently I use a single piece of 12" heat tape that is 4 feet long and run it longways accords the back half of the bottom of the cages. I would post some pictures but I don't have any currently.

As for which is better I'd say that depends on how the cage is setup. If the cage is going to be divided I would go with the 48" piece of 12" heat tape. If the cage is going to be for a single snake I would set it up as pictures in this thread.

I wouldn't use 2 pieces of heat tape side by side on a T8.

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I wish I would've seen this post before I ordered everything and I would've done that instead. I ordered two two foot pieces of 12 inch heat tape from reptile basics. I was thinking of putting them both in the middle running from front to back (not touching small gap in between). Would you recommend putting them on the outsides of the tank instead?

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

Hey Aaron,

As you know, I've got a very similar T8 setup. I'm now starting to rethink my heating method - a single 11" strip up the middle of the T8 where the divider is. Going with 12" across the back seems like the right direction, but I question if 12" is necessary, as it is 50% of the width. From Rich's Heat Tape FAQ (Reptile Basics), he doesn't recommend going more than 1/3 of the floor surface area which makes me lean towards 6" over 12". Any thoughts?

Regardless of the width, is 48" the right length for our T8s across the back? I only ask because I'm wondering if any extra length needs to be accounted for when considering the wire/clips/insulators that go on one end. Of course I could ask Rich, but I figured I'd ask you since you've got the setup in place already.

Thanks, man!

Best regards,
Eric

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I order 48 inches of 12" heat tape and slightly offset it on the cage so the cords come out one side. You could add a few more inches on, but I really don't see any reason to.

You will hear varying opinions on how much heat tape to use. Generally speaking ⅓ - ½ of the bottom of the cage is recommended. I use 12" without any issues. An 8" tape would be ideal, 6 might work but it is a little thin for my tastes.

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Originally Posted by BumbleB

I wish I would've seen this post before I ordered everything and I would've done that instead. I ordered two two foot pieces of 12 inch heat tape from reptile basics. I was thinking of putting them both in the middle running from front to back (not touching small gap in between). Would you recommend putting them on the outsides of the tank instead?

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You cold run a piece on each side of the bottom of the cage. it will work, but will be harder to maintain. I don't like running multiple strips of heat tape off of a single thermostat so I would use 2 thermostats for a configuration like this.

After my T8 working great for spring, summer, and fall, I've discovered that the Flexwatt is not keeping the cage warm enough during the winter. As a result, I have purchased some radiant heat panels from Pro Products. The heat panels arrived yesterday, and I'm hoping to have the opportunity to install them this weekend. Before I do, though, I have one question: Where and how do you recommend I install the Herpstat probe?

Right now, I have the T8 set up with a divided in the middle. A 12" strip of Flexwatt runs in the center of the T8, with the Herpstat probe sandwiched between the Flexwatt and the T8. Based on my conversation with Bob at Pro Products, I plan on discontinuing use of the Flexwatt and run only the two RHPs (I'll mount one panel on each side of the divider). I'm going to try to operate both RHPs off the same outlet on the Herpstat. I realize this isn't ideal, but Bob indicated that I should be fine doing this. However, we didn't talk about where exactly in the cage I would mount the Herpstat probe or how I would mount it.

Where do you recommend I mount the Herpstat probe? I'm guessing I should mount it right next to the divider, but I'm not sure where I should mount it in terms of the front-to-back of the cage and whether I should mount it on the floor of the cage, the ceiling of the cage, or in the middle (heightwise) of the divider. Also, how do you fasten/mount the probe? I've had problems with rats eating through the Accurite probe cord and don't want them to eat through the Herpstat probe. I've purchased a very small diameter (1/4" or so) PVC pipe and was going to run the Accurite probe and cord in the pipe. What about doing the same with the Herpstat probe?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions/advice.

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Originally Posted by BPGuy

After my T8 working great for spring, summer, and fall, I've discovered that the Flexwatt is not keeping the cage warm enough during the winter. As a result, I have purchased some radiant heat panels from Pro Products. The heat panels arrived yesterday, and I'm hoping to have the opportunity to install them this weekend. Before I do, though, I have one question: Where and how do you recommend I install the Herpstat probe?

Right now, I have the T8 set up with a divided in the middle. A 12" strip of Flexwatt runs in the center of the T8, with the Herpstat probe sandwiched between the Flexwatt and the T8. Based on my conversation with Bob at Pro Products, I plan on discontinuing use of the Flexwatt and run only the two RHPs (I'll mount one panel on each side of the divider). I'm going to try to operate both RHPs off the same outlet on the Herpstat. I realize this isn't ideal, but Bob indicated that I should be fine doing this. However, we didn't talk about where exactly in the cage I would mount the Herpstat probe or how I would mount it.

Where do you recommend I mount the Herpstat probe? I'm guessing I should mount it right next to the divider, but I'm not sure where I should mount it in terms of the front-to-back of the cage and whether I should mount it on the floor of the cage, the ceiling of the cage, or in the middle (heightwise) of the divider. Also, how do you fasten/mount the probe? I've had problems with rats eating through the Accurite probe cord and don't want them to eat through the Herpstat probe. I've purchased a very small diameter (1/4" or so) PVC pipe and was going to run the Accurite probe and cord in the pipe. What about doing the same with the Herpstat probe?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions/advice.

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First off when would a rat have a chance to chew through a cord inside your snakes cage? A live rodent shouldn't ever be left in a cage long enough for that to happen. Live rodents shouldn't be left unattended with a snake for any reason. I've seen too many snakes be killed by unattended rats already.

As for probe placement you have a few options. I personally don't recommend using a single thermostat for more than one heat source, but it can be done. You are going to have to carefully monitor your temps as there won't be anything to prevent disaster on the RHP that isn't being directly monitored by a thermostat.

You want your probe to be placed to that it is centered on the lens of the RHP:

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...0.jpg~original

1. You can use hot glue to attach it directly to the lens
2. You can suspend the probe so that it is hanging under the lens
3. You can use hot glue to attach the probe to the bottom of the cage directly under the lens.

Hey guys (new to the forums!)
I am in the same boat as many of you out there and I just want to be 100% correct in the way I am doing things based on what I have read on this forum.

I recently just purchased two T8's with, 1 Flexwatt and a fluorescent light for each. Do you think that is adequate for maintaining ambient temperature and belly heat? I keep the room around 71-73 throughout the entire year.

Also, I am unsure how I need to go about getting/using a Herpstat and which one I will need. Is it possible to only use 1 Herpstat for both cages? I got the impression that Herpstats can control the lighting as well? Am I able to set the lights to come on and off at a certain time each day using the Herpstat?

Last one :D. What exactly will I need? By that I mean which Herpstat, how many temperature gauges, ect. I understands 1 probe goes between the Flexwatt and the tank. Any suggestions on which temperature gauge I should get to record the ambient and belly temp in the tanks?

Thanks in advance!

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Originally Posted by Commandokev

Hey guys (new to the forums!)
I am in the same boat as many of you out there and I just want to be 100% correct in the way I am doing things based on what I have read on this forum.

I recently just purchased two T8's with, 1 Flexwatt and a fluorescent light for each. Do you think that is adequate for maintaining ambient temperature and belly heat? I keep the room around 71-73 throughout the entire year.

Also, I am unsure how I need to go about getting/using a Herpstat and which one I will need. Is it possible to only use 1 Herpstat for both cages? I got the impression that Herpstats can control the lighting as well? Am I able to set the lights to come on and off at a certain time each day using the Herpstat?

Last one :D. What exactly will I need? By that I mean which Herpstat, how many temperature gauges, ect. I understands 1 probe goes between the Flexwatt and the tank. Any suggestions on which temperature gauge I should get to record the ambient and belly temp in the tanks?

Thanks in advance!

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Welcome to the site!

If your room stays that warm year round you shouldn't have any issues using flexwatt and the fluorescent fixture with a T8.

It is possible to control both cages flexwatt from a single herpstat, but I wouldn't recommend doing so. What I would recommend is getting a herpstat that has multiple channels like the herpstat 2 or the herpstat 4 so each cage can have it's own channel. The herpstat 2 is basically 2 herpstat 1's crammed into a single box.

You can control lights with herpstats, but that uses up one of the channels. So that means on the herpstat 1 you have to choose between controlling flexwatt and controlling lights. With a herpstat 2 you could control 2 strips of heat tape separately, or 1 strip of heat tape and some lights. On a herpstat 4 you have 4 channels so you can control 4 devices whatever they be.

Here is the herpstat website: http://spyderrobotics.com/home/products.html

For you I would recommend a herpstat 2 and use something else to control the lights. You can get a cheap timer unit at walmart/target/etc that will give you the same amount of control over the lights for a lot less money.

As for thermometers I like these suits. you will need 1 per cage:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Acu-Rite-I...ndingMethod=rr

They measure 2 temperatures and humidity. You will place your probe on the floor of the cage directly over the flexwatt. The unit itself contains the other thermometer and the hygrometer. Place the unit on the cool side of the cage to get your ambient temp and humidity reading.

Ok perfect, thanks so much for getting back with me. I figured I would need at least a Herpstat 2 for the setup I want. Each probe for the Herpstat goes directly in between the Flexwatt and the tank in the premade slot correct?
Picking up cheap timers sounds perfect.
Thanks again

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Originally Posted by Commandokev

Ok perfect, thanks so much for getting back with me. I figured I would need at least a Herpstat 2 for the setup I want. Each probe for the Herpstat goes directly in between the Flexwatt and the tank in the premade slot correct?
Picking up cheap timers sounds perfect.
Thanks again

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Yes, the herpstat's probes go in the slots on the bottom of the cage.

If a thread survives for two years and more importantly helps people that long I think it should be stickied

I second that. This is definitely a sticky worthy thread. I have the link saved so I dont have to search for it

Can we start a petition for this thread to be stickied?

Sent using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

First off when would a rat have a chance to chew through a cord inside your snakes cage? A live rodent shouldn't ever be left in a cage long enough for that to happen. Live rodents shouldn't be left unattended with a snake for any reason. I've seen too many snakes be killed by unattended rats already.

As for probe placement you have a few options. I personally don't recommend using a single thermostat for more than one heat source, but it can be done. You are going to have to carefully monitor your temps as there won't be anything to prevent disaster on the RHP that isn't being directly monitored by a thermostat.

You want your probe to be placed to that it is centered on the lens of the RHP:

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...0.jpg~original

1. You can use hot glue to attach it directly to the lens
2. You can suspend the probe so that it is hanging under the lens
3. You can use hot glue to attach the probe to the bottom of the cage directly under the lens.

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Thanks, Aaron. I went ahead and mounted the probe on the bottom of the T8, along the center divider, using hot glue. I put the wire in a 1/4" PVC pipe to keep it from being chewed on, but the probe is sticking out of the PVC pipe.

Because the temps in the two sides of the T8 seemed to be a few degrees off and because I want to be able to control each side independently, today I ordered a Herpstat 4. It should arrive in about a week. Once I receive it, I'll run each RHP on its own channel of the Herpstat 4 (I'm going to use a third channel to run a UTH that is heating a tub that sits on top of the T8).

As your question about how the rats were able to chew through the thermometer cords, you really don't want to know. I've done a few stupid things as a result of my snakes' winter hunger strikes. Luckily, the rats didn't hurt the snakes at all. I'm hoping that the cooler winter temps in the T8 caused the hunger strike and that the RHPs will keep the T8 temp constant year-round. In fact, today (I installed the RHPs yesterday) one of the two hunger striking BPs actually ate! :-) In any event, I'm not leaving things to chance any more. I'll be keeping a closer eye on the rats and won't be leaving them in the T8 nearly as long as I had been.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

First off when would a rat have a chance to chew through a cord inside your snakes cage? A live rodent shouldn't ever be left in a cage long enough for that to happen. Live rodents shouldn't be left unattended with a snake for any reason. I've seen too many snakes be killed by unattended rats already.

As for probe placement you have a few options. I personally don't recommend using a single thermostat for more than one heat source, but it can be done. You are going to have to carefully monitor your temps as there won't be anything to prevent disaster on the RHP that isn't being directly monitored by a thermostat.

You want your probe to be placed to that it is centered on the lens of the RHP:

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...0.jpg~original

1. You can use hot glue to attach it directly to the lens
2. You can suspend the probe so that it is hanging under the lens
3. You can use hot glue to attach the probe to the bottom of the cage directly under the lens.

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Thanks, Aaron. I went ahead and mounted the probe on the bottom of the T8, along the center divider, using hot glue. I put the wire in a 1/4" PVC pipe to keep it from being chewed on, but the probe is sticking out of the PVC pipe.

Because the temps in the two sides of the T8 seemed to be a few degrees off and because I want to be able to control each side independently, today I ordered a Herpstat 4. It should arrive in about a week. Once I receive it, I'll run each RHP on its own channel of the Herpstat 4 (I'm going to use a third channel to run a UTH that is heating a tub that sits on top of the T8).

As your question about how the rats were able to chew through the thermometer cords, you really don't want to know. I've done a few stupid things as a result of my snakes' winter hunger strikes. Luckily, the rats didn't hurt the snakes at all. I'm hoping that the cooler winter temps in the T8 caused the hunger strike and that the RHPs will keep the T8 temp constant year-round. In fact, today (I installed the RHPs yesterday) one of the two hunger striking BPs actually ate! :-) In any event, I'm not leaving things to chance any more. I'll be keeping a closer eye on the rats and won't be leaving them in the T8 nearly as long as I had been.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BPGuy

Thanks, Aaron. I went ahead and mounted the probe on the bottom of the T8, along the center divider, using hot glue. I put the wire in a 1/4" PVC pipe to keep it from being chewed on, but the probe is sticking out of the PVC pipe.

Because the temps in the two sides of the T8 seemed to be a few degrees off and because I want to be able to control each side independently, today I ordered a Herpstat 4. It should arrive in about a week. Once I receive it, I'll run each RHP on its own channel of the Herpstat 4 (I'm going to use a third channel to run a UTH that is heating a tub that sits on top of the T8).

As your question about how the rats were able to chew through the thermometer cords, you really don't want to know. I've done a few stupid things as a result of my snakes' winter hunger strikes. Luckily, the rats didn't hurt the snakes at all. I'm hoping that the cooler winter temps in the T8 caused the hunger strike and that the RHPs will keep the T8 temp constant year-round. In fact, today (I installed the RHPs yesterday) one of the two hunger striking BPs actually ate! :-) In any event, I'm not leaving things to chance any more. I'll be keeping a closer eye on the rats and won't be leaving them in the T8 nearly as long as I had been.

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Thanks, Aaron. I went ahead and mounted the probe on the bottom of the T8, along the center divider, using hot glue. I put the wire in a 1/4" PVC pipe to keep it from being chewed on, but the probe is sticking out of the PVC pipe.

Because the temps in the two sides of the T8 seemed to be a few degrees off and because I want to be able to control each side independently, today I ordered a Herpstat 4. It should arrive in about a week. Once I receive it, I'll run each RHP on its own channel of the Herpstat 4 (I'm going to use a third channel to run a UTH that is heating a tub that sits on top of the T8).

As your question about how the rats were able to chew through the thermometer cords, you really don't want to know. I've done a few stupid things as a result of my snakes' winter hunger strikes. Luckily, the rats didn't hurt the snakes at all. I'm hoping that the cooler winter temps in the T8 caused the hunger strike and that the RHPs will keep the T8 temp constant year-round. In fact, today (I installed the RHPs yesterday) one of the two hunger striking BPs actually ate! :-) In any event, I'm not leaving things to chance any more. I'll be keeping a closer eye on the rats and won't be leaving them in the T8 nearly as long as I had been.

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Sounds good. I love my herpstat 4's. They are the pinnacle of reptile thermostats in my option.

I just got my Herpstat 2 Redline in the mail today! It's awesome! Now I'm just waiting to get my T8s in so I can have everything set up. I second the sticky, this thread was extremely helpful! I'll post a few pictures of the set up when I get them in. Aaron how easy is it to drill holes in the T8s? I originally ordered the T8s with a single light in the middle but I may change my mind once I breed them. Think it would be pretty easy to throw a divider in, drill a couple holes in the top for two lights and just fill the middle hole with the plastic drilled from one of the new holes?

It actually VERY easy to drill. If you ever drilled plexiglass, it's kinda like that. You can also fill the holes you don't want with non-toxic filler from Lowes or Home Depot.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Commandokev

I just got my Herpstat 2 Redline in the mail today! It's awesome! Now I'm just waiting to get my T8s in so I can have everything set up. I second the sticky, this thread was extremely helpful! I'll post a few pictures of the set up when I get them in. Aaron how easy is it to drill holes in the T8s? I originally ordered the T8s with a single light in the middle but I may change my mind once I breed them. Think it would be pretty easy to throw a divider in, drill a couple holes in the top for two lights and just fill the middle hole with the plastic drilled from one of the new holes?

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Drilling holes in the PVC is very easy. No need to worry about it cracking like when drilling glass or some other types of plastic sheets. The only thing you have to watch out for is too much heat as you can melt it to some extent. You just have to find the right balance between how fast the bit is spinning and how fast you can push through the material. (this is pretty easy, your nose will tell you if you are getting the PVC too hot)

The divider itself might cover part of the hole. This is what the holes AP machines into the top of the cage for the fluorescent light fixtures looks like:

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...7.jpg~original

The hole itself is 1.125" in diameter and is located 4" in from the back of the cage. They then route in a slot for the cord. This slot is so you can stack cages one on top of the other without any gaps, and to improve the aesthetics of the cage, but aren't necessary as long as there isn't a cage stacked on top.

Worst case you can use something heavy to cover the hole tom the outside of the cage.

You can also drill your own U shape in the rear pannel before screwing in the top part of the cage. That way you don't have holes on the top of the cage.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/01/gyba5era.jpg

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They finally came in! They are built and almost done being set up. I have found that the bottom cage has a harder time reaching the 90 degree hot spot than the top, which makes sense to me. What do I need to do to get the bottom to get closer to the 90 degree temp?

Here is my setup
Herpstat 2
Output 1 config is at 103.5F and is keeping the top cage at 91-92 (I plan on lowering this slightly).
Output 2 config is at 107.5!!! and my hotspot is still only like 85-86.

What is the highest and safest temperature I can set that daytime temperature at to keep my hotspot warm enough?

Thanks,

Kevin

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Commandokev

They finally came in! They are built and almost done being set up. I have found that the bottom cage has a harder time reaching the 90 degree hot spot than the top, which makes sense to me. What do I need to do to get the bottom to get closer to the 90 degree temp?

Here is my setup
Herpstat 2
Output 1 config is at 103.5F and is keeping the top cage at 91-92 (I plan on lowering this slightly).
Output 2 config is at 107.5!!! and my hotspot is still only like 85-86.

What is the highest and safest temperature I can set that daytime temperature at to keep my hotspot warm enough?

Thanks,

Kevin

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What do you have your cages sitting on?

How long has the heat tape been powered up?

My cages are sitting on http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-...to-55/20666560
It is a wood TV stand.

I powered them up approx. 18hrs ago. The top cage heated up nicely.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Commandokev

My cages are sitting on http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-...to-55/20666560
It is a wood TV stand.

I powered them up approx. 18hrs ago. The top cage heated up nicely.

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I use the same - they go very nice with the T8's. My output 1 is set to 103 to give me my 90 degrees on the bottom.


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That's so weird. I taped my Flexwatt's directly to the bottom almost identically how Aaron did in the picture. The clips are hanging just off the bottom of the cage so they stack properly. Hopefully it just needs a day or two to level out. I got that idea from this page, most likely from you! Thanks it does look great!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Commandokev

That's so weird. I taped my Flexwatt's directly to the bottom almost identically how Aaron did in the picture. The clips are hanging just off the bottom of the cage so they stack properly. Hopefully it just needs a day or two to level out. I got that idea from this page, most likely from you! Thanks it does look great!

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I don't know if this makes a difference or not but I also put down foil tape on the tv stand itself to align were the heat tape is on the T8.

Newbie here. So glad this thread is still going! Aaron, I am your fan and have cataloged the valuable info you share. :D

I am going to order a T8 this week. No one on this thread has mentioned using Ultratherm UTH on their AP cages. Any comments on the difference between using Flexwatt or Ultratherm? Quality, dependability, heat wattage output, price? I need something easy to assemble. I am not comfortable wiring and clipping my own electronics.

Aaron, I was thrilled to see you say a divided T8 can house 2 adult male BPs! Now I can satisfy my itch and buy another BP. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Skittles101

Newbie here. So glad this thread is still going! Aaron, I am your fan and have cataloged the valuable info you share. :D

I am going to order a T8 this week. No one on this thread has mentioned using Ultratherm UTH on their AP cages. Any comments on the difference between using Flexwatt or Ultratherm? Quality, dependability, heat wattage output, price? I need something easy to assemble. I am not comfortable wiring and clipping my own electronics.

Aaron, I was thrilled to see you say a divided T8 can house 2 adult male BPs! Now I can satisfy my itch and buy another BP. :)

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Ultratherms are very high quality products, but they really aren't going to be ideal on a T8. You really have 2 options. Flexwatt or THG Heat tape. When ordering the cage from AP if you select the flexwatt heat tape option they will send you 2 feet of 11inch flexwatt heat tape wired up and ready to be plugged into your thermostat, alternatively you can order THG heat tape from reptile basics and have them wire it for you for no additional charge. THG heat tape is a higher quality product vs flexwatt, but both will serve you well.

Sorry to reply to this thread again......but I have a question. I have been looking for something to sit the T8 on when I purchase.....I am having a hard time finding anything that comes close to 24 inches deep to sit it on.....does everyone just let them hang off a few inches in the back or something? Thanks

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by BrandyL1193

Sorry to reply to this thread again......but I have a question. I have been looking for something to sit the T8 on when I purchase.....I am having a hard time finding anything that comes close to 24 inches deep to sit it on.....does everyone just let them hang off a few inches in the back or something? Thanks

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Yep definitely do. I got a table from Ikea thats about 18 or 20 inches and a little bit hangs off in the back. Not a big deal.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by BrandyL1193

Sorry to reply to this thread again......but I have a question. I have been looking for something to sit the T8 on when I purchase.....I am having a hard time finding anything that comes close to 24 inches deep to sit it on.....does everyone just let them hang off a few inches in the back or something? Thanks

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These are perfect for holding 48" x 24" cages:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Folding-Ta...ables/29402407

Hmmm I already have one of those tables......

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