Savannah monitor isssues...

Additionally, some of you should check out Biawak, it's a good resource written by many knowledgable people.

Oh ok so it was a generalization not a true story. So you guys don't think that the fact that 95% of a Savannas are imported, and imports tend to not do so well in captivity has much to do with it?. When Ball Pythons were mostly imports a majority of them didn't make it either. So while I agree with you that a lot of people don't keep monitors the way they should, which goes for more than just Savannas I think the fact they they are mostly all imports has a role in that also. Also I think running a fecal and if needed treating any import through a Vet is the smart thing to do eating or not. In the end the result will be the same if you don't get the animal eating, and if parasites are a factor in that problem its worth knowing that. I guess I wouldn't give advice that should really be up to a Vet to decide, but that is me.

I think you're missing my point, but I do agree with all of yours, so I'm not sure what the problem is. Monitors are a poor beginner reptile, imported or not, and savannahs are a popular beginner species, which to me makes no sense, given among other things their large size.

I never said anything about imports, that wasn't part of the scope of discussion. You can take it in that direction if you so wish though, but that's not really the point of this thread, but you may start a new one if you wish.

No I get your point, You were just making it sound like peoples savannas go down the toilet because they can't care for them properly and shouldn't own them in the first place. I was merely pointing out that there are other factors which may contribute to a Savannas death which is totally relevant to the conversation. So I don't see a need to start a new thread over it.

Chuck

I have had numerous savanna monitors over the years, mostly rescues from kids that didnt know what they were doing.

but either way, make sure there setup in something right, at a ft long or more, they need at least a 70 gal tank. solid top with a screen on one end to regulate the air temps inside. humidity should be at a consistant 55-65% humidity and at least a ft of substrate. i use 70% top soil from home depot. (the cheapest one, because its the closest to outside dirt, nothing added.) and 30% mulch to repel the little bugs that begin to start. when i would get a rescue, they would usually never eat to begin with, so i would raise humidity to about 75% for a week or 2. keep there hot spot at a steady 120* and the ambiant air temps around 80-95* depending on the hot or cold side. dropped night time to about 60-70* and humidity to 65%. they seemed to start eating after a couple days no problem. poop always started out watery and hardened up as the days went on. also started moving around really active. if they didnt make any changes within 2-3 days i would have them vet checked right away. these animals are very hardy and can usually care for themselves within a few days of things going right. remember to always offer them food, dont hold them for at least 2 weeks, just let them be and settle before any interaction. it can cause them to go back into a non eating pattern.

after they are active within the first few days, i let them be for a week and a half or so, and then i take them to the vet to get checked for anything. i found this to be better for them because the stress level isnt as bad. all the vetts i have seen have said im doing a great job and i have never lost a single guy. hope this helps out a little.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Patrick Long

Your off to a GREAT start.

---

I check this forum twice a year, so no worries.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by qiksilver

most monitor setup pics that i have seen aside from on varanus.nl have been completely inadequate. So it was a semi informed assumption based on previous experience from other people's posts.

---

These posts are repetitive and are always the same scenario. 98% of the people buying Savannahs are first time monitor owners or are impulse purchases. They are almost always kept in inadequate conditions. Either they wind up obese and dehydrated from little to no humidity, an all-rodent diet, and subpar enclosure size, or the keeper puts them on craigslist when they actually develop the skills needed to keep another monitor. The life expectancy of a Savannah monitor in captivity, these days, is less than a year.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chuck

No I get your point, You were just making it sound like peoples savannas go down the toilet because they can't care for them properly and shouldn't own them in the first place. I was merely pointing out that there are other factors which may contribute to a Savannas death which is totally relevant to the conversation.

---

100% of Savannah monitors are wild caught, I've only heard of five people tops trying to breed them in my lifetime. It's not economically sound to go through the steps necessary to breed a monitor that's available WC for $9.

The advice in this thread to have a fecal float done is spot on as, being WC, it most likely has parasites, but the majority of Savannahs die from husbandry related issues. You can worm til the cows come home and the typical conditions I described in my original comment will kill the monitor anyhow, and will overwhelmingly be the cause of things like not eating.

To the OP, your monitor should be on a 50/50 topsoil/sand mixture, you should have roughly 1-2 feet of substrate if possible. Until you build a suitable enclosure, your screen top should be covered as much as possible except obviously where the basking bulbs are. You should have several lower wattage basking bulbs (40W outdoor flood) that are closer to the basking spot, rather than a single higher wattage pop culture reptile bulb. This will keep humidity in the tank, and not dry out the tank and the monitor.

If your current fish aquarium will not lend itself to these terms, get a bigger one on craigslist until you finish building your suitable enclosure.

Humidity is going to be essential, especially since your monitor is most likely dehydrated. Bathing the monitor does nothing, as they do not absorb any water through the skin or eyes. They gain and lose water through their mouths, losing most of it when breathing in a dry aquarium.

Although rodents should be given sparingly, when your parasite and husbandry problems are corrected and your monitor is eating, you can aid in rehydration by injecting a bit of water into the feeder rodent.

Start building your next enclosure now. Lurk on other forums, ideas for proper monitor enclosures can be found in threads like these:
http://repticzone.com/forums/Monitor...s/1272637.html

they make good points you definitely want to have a vet check it, sometimes they need a few days after being brought into a new environment(try leaving it alone for a few days), make sure it's getting lots of heat before feeding time. sometimes to stimulate my monitor i put egg yolk on the mouse's nose and pet the montior's back and that usually results in his tongue flicking out and he tastes the yolk and i give it a giggle and he wants to eat it. i wish you the best of luck!